What tool do you use that is worth spending more money on?
11-11-17, 04:40 PM
#26
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honestly i think chain tool is kinda the #1 thing. allen wrenches fail, there's always something to be found in the drawer or the neighbors. chain tool you HAVE to rely on.
i thought the one from my crank bros multi tool was gonna last me a while - nope. i guess it's just intended for a few emergencies, which is frankly really frustrating considering the level of quality i'd usually expect from crank bros.
i thought the one from my crank bros multi tool was gonna last me a while - nope. i guess it's just intended for a few emergencies, which is frankly really frustrating considering the level of quality i'd usually expect from crank bros.
11-11-17, 04:40 PM
#27
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Ok, sorry, I didn't realize you already had most of that stuff and you are correct these are not impressive but usually do just fine for people starting out and are cheap enough to justify replacing most of them with good stuff that gets used a lot more. Pin spanners will come in handy when you need one, many old BB's need them, any cassette removal requires a chain whip so some of those things in a set like this are ok to use infrequently and upgrade as needed. Never say never, you'll be glad you have it if and when you need it. 
sheesh. pin spanners and chain whips? i never ever use those. i already have higher quality cone wrenches than are in that box, a 9-13mm shank socket set, a 14/15mm box wrench made in germany, 1-11mm allen wrenches that are way longer with the ball end, splined bb tool, cassette tool, much nicer looking park tools crank puller, a monkey wrench (kinda my favorite tbh) and much much more. even my sub 8$ shipped allen set and shank socket set from ebay look better quality than that stuff. not impressed with your recommendation.
11-11-17, 04:41 PM
#28
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Not just for bikes, but you never know when your block and tackle will be facing off against 500+lbs of recklessly-applied rope tension, so find or buy good-quality tools for use on your your "barn fresh" bike finds.
Bike Galpal, this one's for you!
Bike Galpal, this one's for you!
Last edited by dddd; 11-11-17 at 04:46 PM.
11-11-17, 04:46 PM
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Ok, sorry, I didn't realize you already had most of that stuff and you are correct these are not impressive but usually do just fine for people starting out and are cheap enough to justify replacing most of them with good stuff that gets used a lot more. Pin spanners will come in handy when you need one, many old BB's need them, any cassette removal requires a chain whip so some of those things in a set like this are ok to use infrequently and upgrade as needed. Never say never, you'll be glad you have it if and when you need it.
the reason i don't use pin spanners is because i usually have slant nose jewelers pliers which work fine, i never find myself needing to put much torque on it because it's the lockring that needs torque.... (although i have in fact disassembled freewheels with slant nose jewelers pliers) chain whip i would certainly like to own but i think i'll make one, and i have pulled multiple cassettes with a chain and some cranks installed on a bike.
this is why i say chain tool is more important. its used super often and there's just no way to "fudge".
11-11-17, 04:51 PM
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11-11-17, 04:55 PM
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that reminds me of my recent somewhat different experience of pulling a seatpost that was just chilling at the bottom of the seat tube, poking its head into the BB shell
some ropy hooky things might have helped a bit over paracord and random nuts and bolts
11-11-17, 04:58 PM
#32
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Totally agree with the chain tool, I am working on getting a good one as we speak, the basic ones I have are testing my patience every time I use them and I need a good one for several projects that are coming up. The lockring thing is spot on as well and I am sure the Park works just fine but my Sugino works so good I have never used my Park that I have as a backup. You will need a good pin spanner, at some point you will encounter a stubborn one and a spanner will help keep from gacking the paint from slipping out of the holes. 
its ok. i'm not the thread starter haha.
the reason i don't use pin spanners is because i usually have slant nose jewelers pliers which work fine, i never find myself needing to put much torque on it because it's the lockring that needs torque.... chain whip i would certainly like to own but i think i'll make one, and i have pulled multiple cassettes with a chain and some cranks installed on a bike.
this is why i say chain tool is more important. its used super often and there's just no way to "fudge".
the reason i don't use pin spanners is because i usually have slant nose jewelers pliers which work fine, i never find myself needing to put much torque on it because it's the lockring that needs torque.... chain whip i would certainly like to own but i think i'll make one, and i have pulled multiple cassettes with a chain and some cranks installed on a bike.
this is why i say chain tool is more important. its used super often and there's just no way to "fudge".
11-11-17, 05:01 PM
#33
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That's what I'm talkin about! Macgyver award of the year. 
11-11-17, 06:21 PM
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There was a similar thread on facebook earlier this year, except the seat post was anchored in a very large bench vise and they used a fork lift for the mode of force. You just have to be careful not to pull the frame joints apart.
11-11-17, 08:12 PM
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11-11-17, 08:21 PM
#36
elcraft
Cable cutters. I am only slightly satisfied with my Park set. I have been told that Knipex makes a diamond patter cable cutter that is the best. Anyone able to,confirm this?
11-11-17, 08:55 PM
#37
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I'll agree with the cable cutters. I still need to get a good pair since mine just ain't cuttin' it.
11-11-17, 08:58 PM
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11-11-17, 09:27 PM
#39
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I haven't cut housing with them, I prefer to use a dremel for that.
I also have a set of Knipex pliers and a flat wrench, both are also high quality and work great. Not cheap, but good tools never are.
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11-11-17, 09:52 PM
#40
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I use the regular Knipex diagonal cutters (see post #10) for cable cutting. They work fine. It was the usual first choice when I worked in bike shops. Yeah it's just a straight cutter, but they cut so well that at most you might get a singe strand out place. Easily put back. Works for cutting spokes too.
Knipex does make a couple actual "wire rope" ie cable cutters also. I'm sure those would be excellent, but the quality of the regular dikes is such that they aren't really necessary. I have no idea what a diamond cutter is. They also make a bowden cable (housing) cutter IIRC. I prefer a Dremel for SIS housing.
Knipex does make a couple actual "wire rope" ie cable cutters also. I'm sure those would be excellent, but the quality of the regular dikes is such that they aren't really necessary. I have no idea what a diamond cutter is. They also make a bowden cable (housing) cutter IIRC. I prefer a Dremel for SIS housing.
11-11-17, 11:24 PM
#41
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Torque wrench and digital calipers.
And I'll take a nice vintage Foredom flex shaft grinder over a Dremel any day.
And I'll take a nice vintage Foredom flex shaft grinder over a Dremel any day.
Last edited by thinktubes; 11-11-17 at 11:29 PM.
11-12-17, 12:02 AM
#42
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The first time I used a torch wrench to tighten a crank bolt, I realized I've been under tightening crank bolts for years
11-12-17, 01:44 AM
#43
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11-12-17, 06:55 AM
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What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner.
Cable cutter, no question. Good ones work well, bad ones make a mess that you have to clean up with a good one.
Cable cutter, no question. Good ones work well, bad ones make a mess that you have to clean up with a good one.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
11-12-17, 07:10 AM
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Uh oh. Looks like you’re out of lubricant.
[QUOTE=dddd;19986902]Not just for bikes, but you never know when your block and tackle will be facing off against 500+lbs of recklessly-applied rope tension, so find or buy good-quality tools for use on your your "barn fresh" bike finds.
Bike Galpal, this one's for you!
[QUOTE=dddd;19986902]Not just for bikes, but you never know when your block and tackle will be facing off against 500+lbs of recklessly-applied rope tension, so find or buy good-quality tools for use on your your "barn fresh" bike finds.
Bike Galpal, this one's for you!
11-12-17, 07:24 AM
#46
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Ooh, that reminds me. How could we miss the obvious?
Beer. Life is too short for cheap beer, especially when you are working on a bike.
Beer. Life is too short for cheap beer, especially when you are working on a bike.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
11-12-17, 07:29 AM
#47
I never finish anyth
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Knipex, in my experience, are very high quality tools that you will only need to buy once. I carried a set of Knipex tools on my motorcycle when I rode the Trans-America trail. No room for errors or lousy tools on that trip.
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Dale, NL4T
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11-12-17, 07:37 AM
#48
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Beer. Life is too short for cheap beer, especially when you are working on a bike.
:thumbup: on the cable cutter.
11-12-17, 08:11 AM
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One that hasn't been mentioned is a good 4-sided spoke wrench. When building I'll still use the 3-sided park wrench for the first couple rounds of tensioning as it's quicker, but the ~full engagement of the 4-sided can be really nice for final tweaks.
Mine's also saved a few spoke nips and headaches on coworker's wheels I've touched up that hadn't seen so much as a quick wipe down since new. Which reminds, T9 Boeshield is also a great tool.
Mine's also saved a few spoke nips and headaches on coworker's wheels I've touched up that hadn't seen so much as a quick wipe down since new. Which reminds, T9 Boeshield is also a great tool.