Regina freewheels ranking, was Oro the best?
#26
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,972
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2498 Post(s)
Liked 3,241 Times
in
2,045 Posts
Not that I am an expert by any means, but I would put the CX-s against most of the Japanese freewheels from the same rough period...And I love the Sun Tour range. That was probably the best of the Regina products...America, in my opinion, a bit less so, but they were trying for something different with that one.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
#27
Full Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tropical Montana
Posts: 402
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 1,112 Times
in
330 Posts
Well, the bike arrived intact without my wife noticing and I took it right away to my LBS for unpacking, re-assembly, and tuning. Looked pretty pristine from what I could see when I peeked in the box. The one wheel that I pulled out was a beautiful Martano (wing decal) with what looks like the original Clement tire showing very little wear. I’d like to learn as much as possible about this bike - I’ll try to boost my post count so I can upload a bunch of photos in a new thread when I get it home. Thanks for sharing the collective wisdom - impressive group of experts here!
__________________
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,834 Times
in
1,998 Posts
My view on the matter is to NEVER assume the mechanic who last did the major assembly knew or cared.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
#29
Full Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tropical Montana
Posts: 402
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 1,112 Times
in
330 Posts
An off-topic question re early CA Masis. In addition to the serial number and size stamping on the bottom bracket, I noticed +CF+ stamped next the M cut-out. Anyone know what that means?
__________________
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
#30
Full Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tropical Montana
Posts: 402
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 1,112 Times
in
330 Posts
My view on the matter is to NEVER assume the mechanic who last did the major assembly knew or cared.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
__________________
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Point Reyes Station, California
Posts: 4,540
Bikes: Indeed!
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1514 Post(s)
Liked 3,489 Times
in
1,139 Posts
As long as we're on the subject I will put this here for posterity. Someone may find it useful in the future.
Brent
Brent
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,834 Times
in
1,998 Posts
The casting house Georg Fischer
Still in business. I do not think they do bike components any more.
Depending on the depth in the casting and the amount of file effort, it goes from fully visible to missing.
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 331
Bikes: '68 Masi Special road, Grail bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 108 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 70 Times
in
58 Posts
this thread went completely off topic! the question was what was the best Regina freewheel not if you liked them!
I think think the answer is America, why else would they have marketed them in nice wooden boxes?
my '68 Masi Special sports a Mallaird 700 Corse freewheel (no wobble and a very precision sounding clack (no slipping ever)
and a Regina Record chain (lower plate height gives a more elegant look plus it shifts smoother and it looks COOL)
I think think the answer is America, why else would they have marketed them in nice wooden boxes?
my '68 Masi Special sports a Mallaird 700 Corse freewheel (no wobble and a very precision sounding clack (no slipping ever)
and a Regina Record chain (lower plate height gives a more elegant look plus it shifts smoother and it looks COOL)
#34
Senior Member
^^^ So Atoms were a buck more than Reginas? I liked Atom freewheels too.
As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.
BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.
Maybe so, but it's a zombie thread.
When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.
As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.
BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.
When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 10-21-20 at 12:04 PM.
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,834 Times
in
1,998 Posts
^^^ So Atoms were a buck more than Reginas? I liked Atom freewheels too.
As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.
BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.
Maybe so, but it's a zombie thread.
When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.
As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.
BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.
Maybe so, but it's a zombie thread.
When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.
Maillard had a good concept with the 700 freewheel kit, one or two threaded cogs and the rest slid on. Good in concept, but took too much time.
There was another racer lazy aspect, always best to set up the race and training wheels with the same brand/model of freewheel, no derailleur adjustment required.
That is if the mechanic double checked that the hub spacing was on the various wheels was uniform. Campagnolo made spacers in .5, 1.0 mm thickness if one needed.
Guys would have a training freewheel and a racing freewheel, or just swap out to race wheels.
#36
Senior Member
As to Campagnolo compatibility-
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked
Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.
all part of the secret Vintage code.
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked
Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.
all part of the secret Vintage code.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,511
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1649 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 845 Times
in
551 Posts
I actually like my Maillard and Maillard/Sachs Freewheels much more than my Reginas.
They are not really that bad, but, the only freewheel I ever had to fix because of bad internal tolerances between the inner and outer bodies was a Regina freewheel (I think it was a CX, IIRC.) that was knocking on me. Never had such ever happen with my other brand freewheels.
What also irritates me with Regina freewheels is, they all seem to really get stuck tight (Even if I greased the freewheel and rear hub threads) on to my hubs, requiring a whole lot of effort to take off my hubs. I actually broke one of my chain whips doing so, some years ago. First time it ever happened to me.
They are not really that bad, but, the only freewheel I ever had to fix because of bad internal tolerances between the inner and outer bodies was a Regina freewheel (I think it was a CX, IIRC.) that was knocking on me. Never had such ever happen with my other brand freewheels.
What also irritates me with Regina freewheels is, they all seem to really get stuck tight (Even if I greased the freewheel and rear hub threads) on to my hubs, requiring a whole lot of effort to take off my hubs. I actually broke one of my chain whips doing so, some years ago. First time it ever happened to me.
Last edited by Chombi1; 10-22-20 at 01:26 PM.
#38
Freewheel Medic
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: An Island on the Coast of GA!
Posts: 12,902
Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales & a Super Pro Aero Lotus (* Ed.)
Mentioned: 141 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1463 Post(s)
Liked 2,220 Times
in
973 Posts
Having just serviced a Regina 5 speed Oro with buggered removal notches, I'd say my favorite two notch Regina is either a Suntour Perfect or ProCompe 5 speed. Jus' sayin'.
__________________
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
#39
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Top
__________________
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 3,475
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 883 Post(s)
Liked 2,311 Times
in
1,292 Posts
A little update on that Regina extra you built for my ItalVega , it is still working flawlessly and the "click" is music to my ears. The one you did for my daughter's Raleigh is also working very well. I also like SunTour Perfect or Winner, and Shimano(early) freewheels . I have a removal tool for the Regina that keeps the slots intact when removing. It employs a threaded retainer that accepts the skewer and keeps it snug when in the vise . Unfortunately most of the Regina FW's I have seen have buggered up slots and that can be a problem.
#41
Full Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tropical Montana
Posts: 402
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 1,112 Times
in
330 Posts
Thanks. Yes, I can see now that it is a G and not a C. I was hoping CF stood for ConFente
__________________
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
#42
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,832
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 154 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3610 Post(s)
Liked 3,434 Times
in
1,952 Posts
As to Campagnolo compatibility-
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked
Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.
all part of the secret Vintage code.
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked
Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.
all part of the secret Vintage code.
English thread Record hub example:
#43
Junior Member
Well, the bike arrived intact without my wife noticing and I took it right away to my LBS for unpacking, re-assembly, and tuning. Looked pretty pristine from what I could see when I peeked in the box. The one wheel that I pulled out was a beautiful Martano (wing decal) with what looks like the original Clement tire showing very little wear. I’d like to learn as much as possible about this bike - I’ll try to boost my post count so I can upload a bunch of photos in a new thread when I get it home. Thanks for sharing the collective wisdom - impressive group of experts here!
#44
Senior Member
Oftentimes if a Regina freewheel is really tight it's because it is an Italian threaded freewheel on an English threaded hub. Not always, but often.
Freewheel threads should always be very well greased. Use teflon if you have it.
AFA the mangled up two notches, that is caused by improper removal technique 99% of the time. Two notch freewheels of all types can be removed without mangling, if care is taken.* The splined bodies are more tolerant, but less convenient since the outer hub locknut usually needs to be taken off, unless you still have an old Phil spline tool. Mine disappeared somewhere along the line... Downside of the Phil tools is they usually failed after a while, being so thin-walled in order to fit between the locknut and freewheel body.
*I realize that doesn't do anyone much good now, 30-40+ years later, when many of the remaining vintage freewheels are mangled.
Freewheel threads should always be very well greased. Use teflon if you have it.
AFA the mangled up two notches, that is caused by improper removal technique 99% of the time. Two notch freewheels of all types can be removed without mangling, if care is taken.* The splined bodies are more tolerant, but less convenient since the outer hub locknut usually needs to be taken off, unless you still have an old Phil spline tool. Mine disappeared somewhere along the line... Downside of the Phil tools is they usually failed after a while, being so thin-walled in order to fit between the locknut and freewheel body.
*I realize that doesn't do anyone much good now, 30-40+ years later, when many of the remaining vintage freewheels are mangled.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 10-22-20 at 02:26 PM.
#45
Full Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tropical Montana
Posts: 402
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 1,112 Times
in
330 Posts
This bike was not ridden very much or very hard at all. Pretty much all original early ‘74 issue and sounds (and looks) like it was always stored inside. I want to build up a new set of wheels and keep the originals in their current condition. It’s interesting that it has a Regina Extra 14-28T freewheel and a Sidis chain although it sounds like it should have been delivered with Everest. So, a question for all, what might be a good wheel build to get this on the road next spring? If I understand correctly for the Regina line, the best options would be the CX or America or anything with an S. We already have snow on the ground so I’m in no hurry to get on it. And I don’t plan to spank it when I do get it out. I’m hoping to come up with something of the appropriate vintage or reliably modern with a vintage look and feel. Regina, Everest, SunTour, tubular or clincher - I’m willing to go any way. I just want to do it right so any ideas would be appreciated.
__________________
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
Last edited by majmt; 10-22-20 at 04:28 PM.
#46
Full Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tropical Montana
Posts: 402
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 1,112 Times
in
330 Posts
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I do agree that the sound of the Regina is really sweet.
__________________
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
#47
Junior Member
I wish I could post a few photos but I’m still short on my post count after seven years. When I make it to 10 posts, I’ll put up some photos of the bike in a new thread. There are so many knowledgable members here that I would really love to hear their informed input.
This bike was not ridden very much or very hard at all. Pretty much all original early ‘74 issue and sounds (and looks) like it was always stored inside. I want to build up a new set of wheels and keep the originals in their current condition. It’s interesting that it has a Regina Extra 14-28T freewheel and a Sidis chain although it sounds like it should have been delivered with Everest. So, a question for all, what might be a good wheel build to get this on the road next spring? If I understand correctly for the Regina line, the best options would be the CX or America or anything with an S. We already have snow on the ground so I’m in no hurry to get on it. And I don’t plan to spank it when I do get it out. I’m hoping to come up with something of the appropriate vintage or reliably modern with a vintage look and feel. Regina, Everest, SunTour, tubular or clincher - I’m willing to go any way. I just want to do it right so any ideas would be appreciated.
This bike was not ridden very much or very hard at all. Pretty much all original early ‘74 issue and sounds (and looks) like it was always stored inside. I want to build up a new set of wheels and keep the originals in their current condition. It’s interesting that it has a Regina Extra 14-28T freewheel and a Sidis chain although it sounds like it should have been delivered with Everest. So, a question for all, what might be a good wheel build to get this on the road next spring? If I understand correctly for the Regina line, the best options would be the CX or America or anything with an S. We already have snow on the ground so I’m in no hurry to get on it. And I don’t plan to spank it when I do get it out. I’m hoping to come up with something of the appropriate vintage or reliably modern with a vintage look and feel. Regina, Everest, SunTour, tubular or clincher - I’m willing to go any way. I just want to do it right so any ideas would be appreciated.
#48
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2024
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Do Regina America cogs with three splines fit on Sachs freewheels? I agree that Sachs freewheels are excellent and would like another source for compatible cogs. I have already found that certain Shimano Uniglide freewheel cogs fit.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
agmetal
Classic & Vintage
29
10-17-22 05:25 AM
eddiearniwhatev
Bicycle Mechanics
10
08-14-15 08:07 PM