Saddle design...which works the best ?
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 389
Bikes: '79 Schwinn Varsity
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What works best for you is a very personal decision. What is a nightmare for you may be the best thing for someone else and vice versa.
Having said that, I think I like my Brooks B17. With 26,979 miles on it, I think I will keep it.
Having said that, I think I like my Brooks B17. With 26,979 miles on it, I think I will keep it.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Santa Fe, NM
Posts: 4,599
Bikes: Vassago Moosknuckle Ti 29+ XTR, 90's Merckx Corsa-01 9sp Record, PROJECT: 1954 Frejus SuperCorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 174 Post(s)
Liked 157 Times
in
75 Posts
I have pretty narrow sit bones (117mm).
The best conventional narrow saddle that I've used (for bars below the saddle level) was a Selle Italia Max Fite with a perineal cutout. It DOES make a difference for more aggressive saddle-bar drop. Very close behind was an early Selle Italia SLR model. I did very long rides on both and found them to work for me.
I've been riding a Brooks B-17 narrow and a Swift for a couple of years now and like them both. And no, I did not buy them because they are "trendy". Both saddles are quite comfy for me. I've treated both with proofide and do not cover them in the rain. It is sort of a litmus test for me, because if this ends up ruining them, then I will move on to another saddle. As comfortable as they are, I prefer to have a 0 maintenance saddle. That said, they are both in great condition despite my lack of care in the wet.
The best conventional narrow saddle that I've used (for bars below the saddle level) was a Selle Italia Max Fite with a perineal cutout. It DOES make a difference for more aggressive saddle-bar drop. Very close behind was an early Selle Italia SLR model. I did very long rides on both and found them to work for me.
I've been riding a Brooks B-17 narrow and a Swift for a couple of years now and like them both. And no, I did not buy them because they are "trendy". Both saddles are quite comfy for me. I've treated both with proofide and do not cover them in the rain. It is sort of a litmus test for me, because if this ends up ruining them, then I will move on to another saddle. As comfortable as they are, I prefer to have a 0 maintenance saddle. That said, they are both in great condition despite my lack of care in the wet.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 179
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've found that whether it's gel, foam, or what have you, all saddles have a break-in period before they become perfect. When I went to buy my first replacement saddle, after I'd completely worn out the stock hard foam saddle on my bike, I couldn't find any that were as comfortable. I tried everything in the shop, and that's when the owner explained that all seats require a certain degree of break-in. My old saddle was broken in, so of course it was going to be more comfortable than anything new. So, what you need to do is find a seat that may not be perfectly comfortable, but has the most potential (i.e. the width feels right, nothing rubbing in odd areas, etc.) then break it in. Whatever the saddle is made of, I've always found it becomes that perfect saddle again after the first few hundred miles or so.
#29
Senior Member
I've found that whether it's gel, foam, or what have you, all saddles have a break-in period before they become perfect. When I went to buy my first replacement saddle, after I'd completely worn out the stock hard foam saddle on my bike, I couldn't find any that were as comfortable. I tried everything in the shop, and that's when the owner explained that all seats require a certain degree of break-in. My old saddle was broken in, so of course it was going to be more comfortable than anything new. So, what you need to do is find a seat that may not be perfectly comfortable, but has the most potential (i.e. the width feels right, nothing rubbing in odd areas, etc.) then break it in. Whatever the saddle is made of, I've always found it becomes that perfect saddle again after the first few hundred miles or so.
#30
incazzare.
Maybe it's the butt that needs breaking in more than the saddle.
__________________
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter