Dynamo Hub: do you have one?
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Thanks for the input from those who responded to my prior post. I just have a few more questions...
Can I power both a headlight and a taillight with just a front hub. or will I need a rear hub as well? I remember reading somewhere that people use it to charge their cellphones, is that true?
Can I power both a headlight and a taillight with just a front hub. or will I need a rear hub as well? I remember reading somewhere that people use it to charge their cellphones, is that true?
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My Busch & Muller Luxos U has a USB charger that will maintain power up to 100ma for devices with the lights on, charge devices over 100ma with the lights off, and power a device for around 4 minutes while stationary with the lithium cache.
They don't put out enough for something like a laptop, but its good for phones, GPS, cameras, ipods, and USB rechargeable lights.
Last edited by kickstart; 03-05-15 at 09:37 PM.
#53
Senior Member
Some good info on dyno lighting: Lighting systems
With most of the the rear light connects to the front light that sort of acts as a voltage regulator.
With most of the the rear light connects to the front light that sort of acts as a voltage regulator.
#54
Senior Member
I did try adding a second halogen headlight alongside a LED headlight and I really could feel the drag when riding.
#55
Uber Goober
My opinion- they're great in the right conditions. I have a Son 20/ Edelux, etc. Light is fairly uniform, but not super bright. Out on a dark lonely road, it's great. If you get in with a bunch of car headlights or bright streetlights, it kind of gets lost in the other lights.
Good point: Light is always there, you never forget to charge it or have batteries run out.
One negative: On lights with a "shaped" beam, you have to have them oriented right to work right. I've seen a couple of people with lights pointed too low, which gave them a bright little rectangle right in front of their bike that was pretty useless (and both of those people used OTHER lights in conjunction with that light, no surprise). Adjust it right, and it's not as bright on the ground but lights up from about 8' in front of you on out.
Good point: Light is always there, you never forget to charge it or have batteries run out.
One negative: On lights with a "shaped" beam, you have to have them oriented right to work right. I've seen a couple of people with lights pointed too low, which gave them a bright little rectangle right in front of their bike that was pretty useless (and both of those people used OTHER lights in conjunction with that light, no surprise). Adjust it right, and it's not as bright on the ground but lights up from about 8' in front of you on out.
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Charging the light is the problem i am loking to solve. As a more ocassional user, having lights charged is hard.
#57
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I have been using a Philips hub for about a year. I was not totally sold on the idea but the daytime driving lights a (sort of) brake light and the fact that I could put my toe in the water for a $47 hub made me try it. The Philips hub only produces 2 watts more drag than the Schmidt hubs so I am pleased. I think it's good for full time use on commuters. I had Peter White build up the wheel for about $200 total shipped to Michigan.
Marc
Marc
#58
contiuniously variable
- Andy
#59
contiuniously variable
The standard layout that i've seen is the front hub wired to the headlamp with leads going back to the tail light which houses the capacitor. The capacitor keeps the lights on when you're stopped after it gets a minute of charge from the hub.
- Andy
- Andy
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Here's some of the major manufacturers with lots of information.
Spanninga Bicycle Lights | Safe and Innovative
Home*-*axa-stenman
Busch & Müller: Home
Here's a reliable, economical source.
Bicycle Lights
Spanninga Bicycle Lights | Safe and Innovative
Home*-*axa-stenman
Busch & Müller: Home
Here's a reliable, economical source.
Bicycle Lights
#61
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
My wife picked out her commuter with two non negotiable features, an internal gear hub and generator lights.
When I built her a second lightweight city bike, it got generator lights as well.
When I built her a second lightweight city bike, it got generator lights as well.
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I have been using a Philips hub for about a year. I was not totally sold on the idea but the daytime driving lights a (sort of) brake light and the fact that I could put my toe in the water for a $47 hub made me try it. The Philips hub only produces 2 watts more drag than the Schmidt hubs so I am pleased. I think it's good for full time use on commuters. I had Peter White build up the wheel for about $200 total shipped to Michigan.
Marc
Marc
#64
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#65
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Marc
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Headed to the bike shop today to get the ball rolling. Hopefully they can get the lights i want!
#67
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My blog post should answer most of your questions. As the post says, cost was $160. I've been so pleased with the system that my only regret is not building it sooner. The light system is one of the reasons I choose this bike from among my too many other bikes. I have 100% confidence that the lights will work whenever I ride. I even leave the lights on in the day because I can't feel the drag, and I figure it can't hurt, and it could help me be seen.
The system I describe in my post, cited above, cost $160, but that doesn't count the labor to build the wheel. I build my own wheels, and it's something I enjoy doing. Since I wrote that post, I found that you can get pre-built wheels at great prices. There is one with the Sanyo hub for only around $100. Paying extra for a Shimano hub might be worth it. The Shimano hub has less drag, especially when not delivering electrical power. I went cheap, and I don't regret it, but I don't blame anyone for paying more for something better.
The European-spec lights work great for me. The actual power output is low, and they compensate for that by designing the optics very painstakingly. The light is clear and commanding. By commanding, I mean it is so well focused that I get a lot of respect from pedestrians that I didn't get with less serious-looking lights. Because German law is strict about beam shape, there is a sharp cutoff at the top of the beam. This reduces the likelihood of shining into people's eyes, and it also directs more light where you actually need it.
I don't lock my bike up in public for long periods, but I do lock it up occasionally. I was once the target of vandalism. The vandal tried to remove my headlight, but he didn't have any tools. All he did was bend the mount and remove the lens. I've been living without the lens. I was able to bend the mount back into shape, so my loss was negligible. So one unexpected benefit of dynamo-powered lights is that the lights are bolted onto the bike rather than clamped on. Thieves could steal them, but in general, bike thieves don't. It's not rational of them to leave stuff like this, because for just a little effort, they could get themselves some nice lights. But we can't use rationality to predict their behavior. Rather, we just have to observe how they operate. Interestingly, I notice they don't cut cheap cables if the payoff is just one wheel. I often lock my frame and rear wheel with a U-lock, and I lock my front wheel to my frame with a cheap cable lock. I have never lost a wheel that way. It would be easy for a thief, and thieves do carry cable cutters, whereas they often don't seem to carry wrenches.
The system I describe in my post, cited above, cost $160, but that doesn't count the labor to build the wheel. I build my own wheels, and it's something I enjoy doing. Since I wrote that post, I found that you can get pre-built wheels at great prices. There is one with the Sanyo hub for only around $100. Paying extra for a Shimano hub might be worth it. The Shimano hub has less drag, especially when not delivering electrical power. I went cheap, and I don't regret it, but I don't blame anyone for paying more for something better.
The European-spec lights work great for me. The actual power output is low, and they compensate for that by designing the optics very painstakingly. The light is clear and commanding. By commanding, I mean it is so well focused that I get a lot of respect from pedestrians that I didn't get with less serious-looking lights. Because German law is strict about beam shape, there is a sharp cutoff at the top of the beam. This reduces the likelihood of shining into people's eyes, and it also directs more light where you actually need it.
I don't lock my bike up in public for long periods, but I do lock it up occasionally. I was once the target of vandalism. The vandal tried to remove my headlight, but he didn't have any tools. All he did was bend the mount and remove the lens. I've been living without the lens. I was able to bend the mount back into shape, so my loss was negligible. So one unexpected benefit of dynamo-powered lights is that the lights are bolted onto the bike rather than clamped on. Thieves could steal them, but in general, bike thieves don't. It's not rational of them to leave stuff like this, because for just a little effort, they could get themselves some nice lights. But we can't use rationality to predict their behavior. Rather, we just have to observe how they operate. Interestingly, I notice they don't cut cheap cables if the payoff is just one wheel. I often lock my frame and rear wheel with a U-lock, and I lock my front wheel to my frame with a cheap cable lock. I have never lost a wheel that way. It would be easy for a thief, and thieves do carry cable cutters, whereas they often don't seem to carry wrenches.
#68
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I just purchased all this stuff and its waiting for me at home. Ill update when I have it installed and ridden!
#69
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Looking forward to it.
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I have been toying with the idea of getting a 2nd (more lightweight) wheelset for my touring bike with a closer spaced cassette and a dynamo hub. The end goal being to make the bike a little faster for brevets. Sadly that plan is probably going to be put on hold for the time being. I do think dynamo hubs are quite practical for riding long hours in less than ideal lighting conditions. Probably not necessary for commuting, but still nice to have.
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And a full set of pit locks. Fork, wheels, light mount, and seat (keyed alike)
Last edited by bonner1040; 04-07-15 at 08:56 PM. Reason: content / comma
#73
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So have had the SON/Luxos U/TopLight Brake Pulse combo installed for about two weeks now and I have to say I really like it. The dynamo resistance is unnoticeable to me while riding.
The amount of light that that the Luxos U throws is just obscene. I mean really it might be TOO bright. The tail light comparatively is modest in brightness and works as advertised although I cant seem to figure how to activate the standlight even though I am sure it is wired correctly.
Overall it was a great upgrade and one I will make to any non-superlight racer bike I own in the future.
I will put some photos and maybe a video together this week.
The amount of light that that the Luxos U throws is just obscene. I mean really it might be TOO bright. The tail light comparatively is modest in brightness and works as advertised although I cant seem to figure how to activate the standlight even though I am sure it is wired correctly.
Overall it was a great upgrade and one I will make to any non-superlight racer bike I own in the future.
I will put some photos and maybe a video together this week.
#74
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So have had the SON/Luxos U/TopLight Brake Pulse combo installed for about two weeks now and I have to say I really like it. The dynamo resistance is unnoticeable to me while riding.
The amount of light that that the Luxos U throws is just obscene. I mean really it might be TOO bright. The tail light comparatively is modest in brightness and works as advertised although I cant seem to figure how to activate the standlight even though I am sure it is wired correctly.
Overall it was a great upgrade and one I will make to any non-superlight racer bike I own in the future.
I will put some photos and maybe a video together this week.
The amount of light that that the Luxos U throws is just obscene. I mean really it might be TOO bright. The tail light comparatively is modest in brightness and works as advertised although I cant seem to figure how to activate the standlight even though I am sure it is wired correctly.
Overall it was a great upgrade and one I will make to any non-superlight racer bike I own in the future.
I will put some photos and maybe a video together this week.
#75
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I have several dynamo hubs, including 6v Sturmey Archer ones going back to the 50's and a 12v Sturmey Archer one from the 30's, as well as various modern Sanyo and Shimano ones. I like them. I've got some of them for free or with old bikes that were nearly free; other hubs cost $35 and up.
I haven't decided whether you get a significantly better hub by spending significantly more money. I've had a couple cheap Shimano ones fail spontaneously, but the others are pretty great. Theft is not an issue.
I haven't decided whether you get a significantly better hub by spending significantly more money. I've had a couple cheap Shimano ones fail spontaneously, but the others are pretty great. Theft is not an issue.
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