Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#5651
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Did a double conversion on my 1989 Nishiki Cascade. Drop bar conversion and 650B conversion.
Dream came to me riding some dirt roads up the coast last fall, wouldn't larger wheels and drops work better, so....
I installed a Soma Portola bar with Technomic stem and squeezed in 650b wheels (Shimano MT-60 hubs and budget Zax19 rims) and some 27.2x2 Thunder Burts. Needed new calipers and the Tektro CR720s did the trick.
Took her out up Blackstar Canyon today, worked well. Much more comfortable with the multiple hand positions climbing and the drops worked well on the downhill.
nishiki conversion.jpg
Dream came to me riding some dirt roads up the coast last fall, wouldn't larger wheels and drops work better, so....
I installed a Soma Portola bar with Technomic stem and squeezed in 650b wheels (Shimano MT-60 hubs and budget Zax19 rims) and some 27.2x2 Thunder Burts. Needed new calipers and the Tektro CR720s did the trick.
Took her out up Blackstar Canyon today, worked well. Much more comfortable with the multiple hand positions climbing and the drops worked well on the downhill.
nishiki conversion.jpg
#5652
Senior Member
Hey couple questions for you guys...I've got a Trek 850 I might dona drop bar conversion on...but am a bit confused about quill stem/handlebar sizing. Are mtb bars typically same diameter as road? My Trek definitely has a larger quill than a couple road quill stems sitting in my bin...
#5653
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Hey couple questions for you guys...I've got a Trek 850 I might dona drop bar conversion on...but am a bit confused about quill stem/handlebar sizing. Are mtb bars typically same diameter as road? My Trek definitely has a larger quill than a couple road quill stems sitting in my bin...
As far as MTB quills go, you had 1" and 1-1/8" (these are actually the OD of the steerer tube, but that's the way the stems are listed.) As for bar clamp diameter, older MTB bars would be 25.4. Newer ones usually 31.8, with 35.0 also available.
#5654
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#5655
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Hey couple questions for you guys...I've got a Trek 850 I might dona drop bar conversion on...but am a bit confused about quill stem/handlebar sizing. Are mtb bars typically same diameter as road? My Trek definitely has a larger quill than a couple road quill stems sitting in my bin...
You can get road bars in 25.4, 26.0, 26.4, 31.8 and 35mm clamp diameters. 26.0 was the most popular clamp diameter in the 80s and 90s roadie quill stem era.
As far as MTB quills go, you had 1" and 1-1/8" (these are actually the OD of the steerer tube, but that's the way the stems are listed.) As for bar clamp diameter, older MTB bars would be 25.4. Newer ones usually 31.8, with 35.0 also available.
As far as MTB quills go, you had 1" and 1-1/8" (these are actually the OD of the steerer tube, but that's the way the stems are listed.) As for bar clamp diameter, older MTB bars would be 25.4. Newer ones usually 31.8, with 35.0 also available.
You can probly still buy them new some place like Amazon, and they were never real expensive, because they're fugly.
#5656
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You can get road bars in 25.4, 26.0, 26.4, 31.8 and 35mm clamp diameters. 26.0 was the most popular clamp diameter in the 80s and 90s roadie quill stem era.
As far as MTB quills go, you had 1" and 1-1/8" (these are actually the OD of the steerer tube, but that's the way the stems are listed.) As for bar clamp diameter, older MTB bars would be 25.4. Newer ones usually 31.8, with 35.0 also available.
As far as MTB quills go, you had 1" and 1-1/8" (these are actually the OD of the steerer tube, but that's the way the stems are listed.) As for bar clamp diameter, older MTB bars would be 25.4. Newer ones usually 31.8, with 35.0 also available.
If shopping for new quill stems, Sunlite and Origin8 have several lower priced options. Sunlite even has a 1-1/8" stem which looks very "road like". Nitto continues to make fine quill stems but these are several times as much as the Sunlite and Origin8. As previously pointed out, there are lots of inexpensive used steel quill stems available at bicycle co-op's and other used parts stores. Aside from being fugly, the wide bar clamp found on most of these will make it challenging to get the curves of a road bar through the clamp. Stems with a 2 or 4 bolt faceplate make bar installation easy.
One last option if you already have a set of bars which you really-really want to use... A quill to threadless adapter will allow one to go with any bar clamp diameter. That is so long as you don't have 26.4mm Cinelli bars!
Good luck,
Greg
Last edited by NocoRider; 07-06-17 at 10:20 AM.
#5657
Senior Member
Been wanting to do one of these for a long time! Finished routing the derailers this morning. Still have to make some adjustments and get the first ride under my belt..
1980's Fuji Sunfire before/after. Now running what I had laying around the shop for Shimano STI. New generic white bar tape and new Jagwire white cables.
20170603_235550748_iOS by Andrew Cunningham, on Flickr
20170707_153059451_iOS by Andrew Cunningham, on Flickr
1980's Fuji Sunfire before/after. Now running what I had laying around the shop for Shimano STI. New generic white bar tape and new Jagwire white cables.
20170603_235550748_iOS by Andrew Cunningham, on Flickr
20170707_153059451_iOS by Andrew Cunningham, on Flickr
Last edited by ratfink76; 07-08-17 at 11:54 AM. Reason: changed hosting sites for pics
#5658
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Been wanting to do one of these for a long time! Finished routing the derailers this morning. Still have to make some adjustments and get the first ride under my belt..
1980's Fuji Sunfire before/after. Now running what I had laying around the shop for Shimano STI. New generic white bar tape and new Jagwire white cables.
1980's Fuji Sunfire before/after. Now running what I had laying around the shop for Shimano STI. New generic white bar tape and new Jagwire white cables.
Time to update your Photobucket account!
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I rescued my dad's old 1993 Raleigh rigid MTB. He had upgraded and was fixing to toss this one. I'm not sure if a 93 model is included in this forum's definition of vintage or classic but I'll go ahead an just accept the repercussions if so. The bars and rear rack aren't in final position, only thrown on for a few pics. I'm still not sure of the style of shifters I want to use, any ideas????
There are 2 goals with this bike, The first is to have a commuter/touring/gravel style of bike that will save the wear and tear on my Chameleon. The second is to do this build as cheap as possible. I currently have $72 in her.
Original bike:
1993 Raleigh MT-200
Shimano Altus
3 x 7 Drivetrain
26"x 2.2" Knobbies
Things I have changed:
26" x 1.5" Chao Yang semi-slicks
Salsa Poco drops
Quill stem adapter
Ritchey WCS 100 x 6 degree stem
Rear Rack off a mid 90's Gary Fisher
Remainder:
Figure out what style/brand of shifters to use
Brakes and brake levers
Let me know what you think.
There are 2 goals with this bike, The first is to have a commuter/touring/gravel style of bike that will save the wear and tear on my Chameleon. The second is to do this build as cheap as possible. I currently have $72 in her.
Original bike:
1993 Raleigh MT-200
Shimano Altus
3 x 7 Drivetrain
26"x 2.2" Knobbies
Things I have changed:
26" x 1.5" Chao Yang semi-slicks
Salsa Poco drops
Quill stem adapter
Ritchey WCS 100 x 6 degree stem
Rear Rack off a mid 90's Gary Fisher
Remainder:
Figure out what style/brand of shifters to use
Brakes and brake levers
Let me know what you think.
#5665
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I rescued my dad's old 1993 Raleigh rigid MTB. He had upgraded and was fixing to toss this one. I'm not sure if a 93 model is included in this forum's definition of vintage or classic but I'll go ahead an just accept the repercussions if so. The bars and rear rack aren't in final position, only thrown on for a few pics. I'm still not sure of the style of shifters I want to use, any ideas????
There are 2 goals with this bike, The first is to have a commuter/touring/gravel style of bike that will save the wear and tear on my Chameleon. The second is to do this build as cheap as possible. I currently have $72 in her.
Original bike:
1993 Raleigh MT-200
Shimano Altus
3 x 7 Drivetrain
26"x 2.2" Knobbies
Things I have changed:
26" x 1.5" Chao Yang semi-slicks
Salsa Poco drops
Quill stem adapter
Ritchey WCS 100 x 6 degree stem
Rear Rack off a mid 90's Gary Fisher
Remainder:
Figure out what style/brand of shifters to use
Brakes and brake levers
Let me know what you think.
There are 2 goals with this bike, The first is to have a commuter/touring/gravel style of bike that will save the wear and tear on my Chameleon. The second is to do this build as cheap as possible. I currently have $72 in her.
Original bike:
1993 Raleigh MT-200
Shimano Altus
3 x 7 Drivetrain
26"x 2.2" Knobbies
Things I have changed:
26" x 1.5" Chao Yang semi-slicks
Salsa Poco drops
Quill stem adapter
Ritchey WCS 100 x 6 degree stem
Rear Rack off a mid 90's Gary Fisher
Remainder:
Figure out what style/brand of shifters to use
Brakes and brake levers
Let me know what you think.
You will need brake levers that are compatible with V brakes, as they have a different pull than typical road bike levers. Bar end shifters would be easiest to set up and can be found in 7 speed or friction.
#5666
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Love the bike. I think you're going to want a shorter stem. The one with the drops is longer and lower than the one with the flat bar, which means it will be very stretched out. Usually you try to go the opposite way with a drop bar conversion.
#5667
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There are several threads discussing the definition of classic or vintage, but if someone was tossing it out, I would say it is old enough.
You will need brake levers that are compatible with V brakes, as they have a different pull than typical road bike levers. Bar end shifters would be easiest to set up and can be found in 7 speed or friction.
You will need brake levers that are compatible with V brakes, as they have a different pull than typical road bike levers. Bar end shifters would be easiest to set up and can be found in 7 speed or friction.
A couple more "creative" ideas I've see on this thread...
1. Some folks have found old steel clamps which can be modified to fit on the wider diameter road bars so they keep their original equipment thumb shifters.
2. Others have found old stem shifter mounts and have used these with vintage downtube shifters.
3. Brifters can be used with a Travelagent for the v-brakes, or replace the v-brakes with canti's.
#5668
Pedalin' Erry Day
I've posted this bike here before, but I'm posting it again because I've just got it back from the powdercoater (the finish was pretty rough when I purchased it from a forum member, and some hard use this past winter didn't do the finish any favors) and finished a few little tweaks to make it perfect. Frame is an '88 Trek 870, a one year model with the unusual combination of U-brakes and DT shifter bosses.
#5669
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I've posted this bike here before, but I'm posting it again because I've just got it back from the powdercoater (the finish was pretty rough when I purchased it from a forum member, and some hard use this past winter didn't do the finish any favors) and finished a few little tweaks to make it perfect. Frame is an '88 Trek 870, a one year model with the unusual combination of U-brakes and DT shifter bosses.
And a fastback seatstay! Superbe build. Looks like that's another year where Trek utilized the same frame for a 26" and a 700c application - same frame as the 520 with a different fork and u-brake brazeons.
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I've posted this bike here before, but I'm posting it again because I've just got it back from the powdercoater (the finish was pretty rough when I purchased it from a forum member, and some hard use this past winter didn't do the finish any favors) and finished a few little tweaks to make it perfect. Frame is an '88 Trek 870, a one year model with the unusual combination of U-brakes and DT shifter bosses.
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I tried a 50 mm stem with no rise that I had and it felt extremely compact. I've really only ever mountain biked so maybe it should feel that way. Just felt uncomfortable.
#5672
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Got that 1984 Trek 850 finished. Found a matching (same date code) Deerhead RD. Added Shimano friction bar ends and a set of Rando bars (1983 date coded). Original anodized 600 crankset and Deerhead FD.
[IMG]fullsizeoutput_915 by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_9030 by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_9031 by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]fullsizeoutput_915 by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_9030 by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_9031 by bill, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Finished this up on Friday and took it out for a test ride yesterday. Rides great! Needs some tweaking here and there but definitely my new favorite bike. :-)
19884353_10212007873084843_3541093948182457535_n.jpg
19884353_10212007873084843_3541093948182457535_n.jpg
#5674
Senior Member
I've posted this bike here before, but I'm posting it again because I've just got it back from the powdercoater (the finish was pretty rough when I purchased it from a forum member, and some hard use this past winter didn't do the finish any favors) and finished a few little tweaks to make it perfect. Frame is an '88 Trek 870, a one year model with the unusual combination of U-brakes and DT shifter bosses.
#5675
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I don't know if these have been mentioned in a 228 page thread, but what do yall think about Origin 8 drop bar ends? I'm getting a new MTB and may get some of these and some road tires for it.