Walmart E-zip?
#251
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Location: Portland, OR
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#252
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nashbar.com under child carriers. Been eying them for a while! After buying three electric bikes in one month, I am not sure my husband will jump on this just yet!
CK
CK
#253
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Well, the DH authorized the child carrier/trailer from nashbar, ordered it this morning. Man, tax and shipping added 20$ but still less than the 99.99 it was with free shipping. 94$ total
I believe it will come to good use. When all three of us are out on the bikes, we can take a picnic as well.
Like others, we are looking for ways to just get out on the bikes!
CK
I believe it will come to good use. When all three of us are out on the bikes, we can take a picnic as well.
Like others, we are looking for ways to just get out on the bikes!
CK
#254
Oh, there are rules?
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Location: Portland, OR
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Bikes: Women's E-zip, and an old road bike from 1980
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Where I live, there is nowhere right at hand for a "pleasure" ride, so I can't just hop on my bike and ride someplace nice. Therefore I am always searching for reasons to 'go somewhere'. I get on mapquest at night and plot out routes to stores I need to go to for one little thing! Today, for instance, I've got a 10 mile round trip planned for a battery I need for my camera.
#256
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Hi, do not know when. I got mine from Amazon, then they sold out of them while my husband was contemplating getting one. While we were on vacation, we happened to check out the Wal-Mart site and snagged one for my husband. Keep watching. I hope you are able to obtain one soon!
CK
CK
#257
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#258
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I'd prefer teh mens model. Although it always made sense that the mens version should be the one missing the bar in the center.
Where else can I get one of these? I'd like to get one asap.
Where else can I get one of these? I'd like to get one asap.
#259
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Call Currie in Los Angeles (city of Chatsworth, I believe) and see if there is a dealer near you.
#261
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Hi,
Just a quick update on my E-ZIP commuting adventures.
After 16 roundtrips and 291 miles, I got my first flat yesterday on the way home. Big ol' nail got me on the back tire. Also received my first e-bike injury, a scraped up bloody shin thanks to slipping on one of those very teethy pedals.
Looks like I'll be printing out the step by step directions here for changing the back tire. I bought the super heavy duty tube with slime built into it and I think I'll get one of those tire liners as well as I don't want to have to do this too often.
On a better note, my trip into work yesterday yielded a new time record for me. 29:45 for my 7.98 miles. Over a 16mph average! (and that's with stopping at all the red lights).
Chris
Just a quick update on my E-ZIP commuting adventures.
After 16 roundtrips and 291 miles, I got my first flat yesterday on the way home. Big ol' nail got me on the back tire. Also received my first e-bike injury, a scraped up bloody shin thanks to slipping on one of those very teethy pedals.
Looks like I'll be printing out the step by step directions here for changing the back tire. I bought the super heavy duty tube with slime built into it and I think I'll get one of those tire liners as well as I don't want to have to do this too often.
On a better note, my trip into work yesterday yielded a new time record for me. 29:45 for my 7.98 miles. Over a 16mph average! (and that's with stopping at all the red lights).
Chris
#262
Oh, there are rules?
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Location: Portland, OR
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Hi,
Just a quick update on my E-ZIP commuting adventures.
After 16 roundtrips and 291 miles, I got my first flat yesterday on the way home. Big ol' nail got me on the back tire. Also received my first e-bike injury, a scraped up bloody shin thanks to slipping on one of those very teethy pedals.
Looks like I'll be printing out the step by step directions here for changing the back tire. I bought the super heavy duty tube with slime built into it and I think I'll get one of those tire liners as well as I don't want to have to do this too often.
On a better note, my trip into work yesterday yielded a new time record for me. 29:45 for my 7.98 miles. Over a 16mph average! (and that's with stopping at all the red lights).
Chris
Just a quick update on my E-ZIP commuting adventures.
After 16 roundtrips and 291 miles, I got my first flat yesterday on the way home. Big ol' nail got me on the back tire. Also received my first e-bike injury, a scraped up bloody shin thanks to slipping on one of those very teethy pedals.
Looks like I'll be printing out the step by step directions here for changing the back tire. I bought the super heavy duty tube with slime built into it and I think I'll get one of those tire liners as well as I don't want to have to do this too often.
On a better note, my trip into work yesterday yielded a new time record for me. 29:45 for my 7.98 miles. Over a 16mph average! (and that's with stopping at all the red lights).
Chris
#263
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For those looking for the men's bike, there are some available at Toy's R Us for $50 more. ($399)
https://www.toysrus.com/product/index...ductId=3030730
Shipping is around $125. I hope they have it in store near you.
https://www.toysrus.com/product/index...ductId=3030730
Shipping is around $125. I hope they have it in store near you.
Last edited by toyfountain; 07-26-08 at 08:08 PM.
#264
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Hi Chris, I changed the rear tire with no instructions, it's fairly obvious once you really take a look. You just need to loosen the various bolts that hold the motor in place, lift off the motor (it will still be attached via wires) and hang the motor on the frame while you continue removing the tire in the normal fashion. No sweat, really.
1. The thin cone wrench that is mentioned in the instructions is a bike store item, NOT a Home Depot item! The folks at Home depot had no idea what I was talking about.
2. After taking the 6 bolts to get the motor removed from the mounting plate, the motor may fall apart on you with gears and bearings and assorted washers falling onto the floor. It did with me. I hope I put it back correctly and it seems to work after a couple of test rides but we will see long term. There is a round donut shaped bearing that goes into a recessed hole in the middle, there are also two metal washers. I put the washers in the recessed hole before putting the donut shaped bearing in. I hope that is correct.
One question on the motor's chain... Should there be any slack at all or should it back as tight as possible? I took some before pictures so I hope I can tell but to me it seems like the chain might be too tight and I am having a difficult time trying to loosen it without taking the whole wheel off again (and I'm trying to avoid that whole fiasco again).
#265
Oh, there are rules?
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One question on the motor's chain... Should there be any slack at all or should it back as tight as possible? I took some before pictures so I hope I can tell but to me it seems like the chain might be too tight and I am having a difficult time trying to loosen it without taking the whole wheel off again (and I'm trying to avoid that whole fiasco again).
Also, I believe the brakes have a protruding screw you can turn to adjust them.
Last edited by lynnala; 07-26-08 at 10:03 PM.
#266
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#267
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Western New York, The FingerLakes Region, small town, Bloomfield, NY
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Bikes: 2008 Currie eZip Trailz, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, bought new for Honeymoon camping trip around Nova Scotia
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Mine was loose after I finished too, I tightened it just until there was no slack, and it seems fine. You don't have to take the wheel off to loosen or tighten it, there are two bolts on the motor mount plate that enable you to slide the motor back and forth until you get the chain at the right tension. I'll see if I can find any pics on the web, or maybe there is a pic in the owners manual, I'll look.
Also, I believe the brakes have a protruding screw you can turn to adjust them.
Also, I believe the brakes have a protruding screw you can turn to adjust them.
#268
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#269
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Improved Removal of eZip Rear Wheel Procedure
I'm offering an improved procedure for removing the eZip rear wheel. I said when I posted the other one that I had not done it. Well I have done it now. I didn't have a flat, but the motor chain needed tightening so I decided to do it all. I now have even more respect for Lynnala who said she had never worked on bikes, just wung it, and all was well. I've worked with bikes off and on for lots of years. I did my 'change' with the bike in a repair stand so that the wheel was at eye height while sitting.
It was still work. It took 4x the time of any change I remember.
The good news is I eliminated removing the motor from its mount, less chance to loose stuff. The bad news is now there are 19 steps instead of 13. But I know these work, at least did once. I guess the others did too, but I think these are better. I now think I could manage it by the roadside.
Removing the rear wheel for tire repair
1) Loosen brakes, Normally removing ‘noodle’ (elbow shaped metal tube at brake arm on motor side) from mount will do, or loosen brake cable
2) Cut wire tie on motor lead closest to motor, need a good knife or diagonal cutters
3) Fasten motor to battery rack using wire looped around top standoff,carry some maleable wire
4) Loosen both 15 mm axle nuts
5) Loosen 17 mm thin nut between dropout and motor mount (Requires thin (cone) wrench)(A cone wrench is a bike store item)
6) Remove 5 mm bolt clamping motor mount to dropout
7) On the adjusting stud (points to front at front of motor mount) back off the 5mm nut furthest right
8) Slide motor mount forward, to loosen chain
9) Remove chain from motor sprocket
10) Swing front of motor mount down to free adjusting stud on front of motor mount
11) Lower wheel, mount and motor a bit to expose 17mm nut
12) Remove 17mm nut (that holds mount to axle) from axle
13) Remove mount with motor from axle, wire will hold it in place. No tension on motor lead
14) Loosen 15 mm axle on right side more
15) Swing derailleur down out of the way to free pedal chain from freewheel
16) Remove wheel
17) Fix tire
18) Install by reversing steps 16 to 1, including replacing wire tie
19) Adjust motor mount front to back, using the nuts on the adjusting stud so that there is 3/16” movement when the chain is pushed in the middle of its span
It was still work. It took 4x the time of any change I remember.
The good news is I eliminated removing the motor from its mount, less chance to loose stuff. The bad news is now there are 19 steps instead of 13. But I know these work, at least did once. I guess the others did too, but I think these are better. I now think I could manage it by the roadside.
Removing the rear wheel for tire repair
1) Loosen brakes, Normally removing ‘noodle’ (elbow shaped metal tube at brake arm on motor side) from mount will do, or loosen brake cable
2) Cut wire tie on motor lead closest to motor, need a good knife or diagonal cutters
3) Fasten motor to battery rack using wire looped around top standoff,carry some maleable wire
4) Loosen both 15 mm axle nuts
5) Loosen 17 mm thin nut between dropout and motor mount (Requires thin (cone) wrench)(A cone wrench is a bike store item)
6) Remove 5 mm bolt clamping motor mount to dropout
7) On the adjusting stud (points to front at front of motor mount) back off the 5mm nut furthest right
8) Slide motor mount forward, to loosen chain
9) Remove chain from motor sprocket
10) Swing front of motor mount down to free adjusting stud on front of motor mount
11) Lower wheel, mount and motor a bit to expose 17mm nut
12) Remove 17mm nut (that holds mount to axle) from axle
13) Remove mount with motor from axle, wire will hold it in place. No tension on motor lead
14) Loosen 15 mm axle on right side more
15) Swing derailleur down out of the way to free pedal chain from freewheel
16) Remove wheel
17) Fix tire
18) Install by reversing steps 16 to 1, including replacing wire tie
19) Adjust motor mount front to back, using the nuts on the adjusting stud so that there is 3/16” movement when the chain is pushed in the middle of its span
#271
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Western New York, The FingerLakes Region, small town, Bloomfield, NY
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I think the major difference is that the Mountain has knobbier tires, not as good for commute, road, not trail riding. There may be other differences. Data sheet says it weighs 78#, Trailz 75#
#272
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I believe the difference is that the first is a women's steel frame, road tires. The second is a men's aluminum frame, knobby tires, (the one I saw had) front disc brakes. At least those were the main differences of the one's I saw at the dealer where I bought mine.
Last edited by lynnala; 08-01-08 at 02:09 AM.
#273
Oh, there are rules?
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I'm offering an improved procedure for removing the eZip rear wheel. I said when I posted the other one that I had not done it. Well I have done it now. I didn't have a flat, but the motor chain needed tightening so I decided to do it all. I now have even more respect for Lynnala who said she had never worked on bikes, just wung it, and all was well. I've worked with bikes off and on for lots of years. I did my 'change' with the bike in a repair stand so that the wheel was at eye height while sitting.
It was still work. It took 4x the time of any change I remember.
The good news is I eliminated removing the motor from its mount, less chance to loose stuff. The bad news is now there are 19 steps instead of 13. But I know these work, at least did once. I guess the others did too, but I think these are better. I now think I could manage it by the roadside.
Removing the rear wheel for tire repair
1) Loosen brakes, Normally removing ‘noodle’ (elbow shaped metal tube at brake arm on motor side) from mount will do, or loosen brake cable
2) Cut wire tie on motor lead closest to motor, need a good knife or diagonal cutters
3) Fasten motor to battery rack using wire looped around top standoff,carry some maleable wire
4) Loosen both 15 mm axle nuts
5) Loosen 17 mm thin nut between dropout and motor mount (Requires thin (cone) wrench)(A cone wrench is a bike store item)
6) Remove 5 mm bolt clamping motor mount to dropout
7) On the adjusting stud (points to front at front of motor mount) back off the 5mm nut furthest right
8) Slide motor mount forward, to loosen chain
9) Remove chain from motor sprocket
10) Swing front of motor mount down to free adjusting stud on front of motor mount
11) Lower wheel, mount and motor a bit to expose 17mm nut
12) Remove 17mm nut (that holds mount to axle) from axle
13) Remove mount with motor from axle, wire will hold it in place. No tension on motor lead
14) Loosen 15 mm axle on right side more
15) Swing derailleur down out of the way to free pedal chain from freewheel
16) Remove wheel
17) Fix tire
18) Install by reversing steps 16 to 1, including replacing wire tie
19) Adjust motor mount front to back, using the nuts on the adjusting stud so that there is 3/16” movement when the chain is pushed in the middle of its span
It was still work. It took 4x the time of any change I remember.
The good news is I eliminated removing the motor from its mount, less chance to loose stuff. The bad news is now there are 19 steps instead of 13. But I know these work, at least did once. I guess the others did too, but I think these are better. I now think I could manage it by the roadside.
Removing the rear wheel for tire repair
1) Loosen brakes, Normally removing ‘noodle’ (elbow shaped metal tube at brake arm on motor side) from mount will do, or loosen brake cable
2) Cut wire tie on motor lead closest to motor, need a good knife or diagonal cutters
3) Fasten motor to battery rack using wire looped around top standoff,carry some maleable wire
4) Loosen both 15 mm axle nuts
5) Loosen 17 mm thin nut between dropout and motor mount (Requires thin (cone) wrench)(A cone wrench is a bike store item)
6) Remove 5 mm bolt clamping motor mount to dropout
7) On the adjusting stud (points to front at front of motor mount) back off the 5mm nut furthest right
8) Slide motor mount forward, to loosen chain
9) Remove chain from motor sprocket
10) Swing front of motor mount down to free adjusting stud on front of motor mount
11) Lower wheel, mount and motor a bit to expose 17mm nut
12) Remove 17mm nut (that holds mount to axle) from axle
13) Remove mount with motor from axle, wire will hold it in place. No tension on motor lead
14) Loosen 15 mm axle on right side more
15) Swing derailleur down out of the way to free pedal chain from freewheel
16) Remove wheel
17) Fix tire
18) Install by reversing steps 16 to 1, including replacing wire tie
19) Adjust motor mount front to back, using the nuts on the adjusting stud so that there is 3/16” movement when the chain is pushed in the middle of its span
#274
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was there a price diff between the two? cuz i just got the mountain bike one w/ knobby tires, and it didn't have disc brakes and it felt heavy enough to make me think it was steel. i'll try to check out the comfort bike soon...
#275
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Location: Portland, OR
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The 'mens' mountain bike was more expensive. Both bikes are heavy due to the battery, but the one I saw was aluminum as opposed to the women's steel frame.
I just looked on the Walmart site and see that are two different men's bikes, one being the trailz hybrid, the other the mountain trailz hybrid, and the trailz hybrid does say steel frame. I got mine from a dealer who gets his bikes directly from Currie, so perhaps his were slightly different than the ones that Walmart has. https://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_constraint=0&search_query=e-zip&Find.x=11&Find.y=11&Find=Find&ic=48_0
I just looked on the Walmart site and see that are two different men's bikes, one being the trailz hybrid, the other the mountain trailz hybrid, and the trailz hybrid does say steel frame. I got mine from a dealer who gets his bikes directly from Currie, so perhaps his were slightly different than the ones that Walmart has. https://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_constraint=0&search_query=e-zip&Find.x=11&Find.y=11&Find=Find&ic=48_0
Last edited by lynnala; 08-03-08 at 08:17 PM.