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What's the upgrade you regretted the most?

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Old 12-01-16, 04:08 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by spectastic
how are tubeless rims different such that mounting tires becomes a pain? I have a set of tubeless wheels that I have no intention of actually using for tubeless. I believe it's a 19mm inner width, with 28 mm tires. They didn't really give me any trouble at all..
It has nothing to do with the width. There is tolerancing on the diameter. Tubeless rims effectively have a larger diameter than non-tubeless. The rim bed isn't as deep. Some try to compensate by making a channel in the center that should allow you to put the tire bead into it but even then it doesn't help. I have run into situations where even if you're running tubed you have to run a tubeless tape as your rim strip or the tire just won't mount. Pacenti was horrible with this which is why they went to generation 2 on the SL23.

I personally have had no issue with A23's or Kinlins. There are many who have had issue with both of those.
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Old 12-01-16, 06:30 PM
  #152  
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November wheels (white industry hubs with Pacanti hoops), the hubs a wonderful but as Psiment has mentioned about tubeless it is almost impossible sometimes to get a tire on. So much so that I've thought about getting them rebuilt with a different hoop.

Its not a fault of November themselves.
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Old 12-01-16, 07:01 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest
So you don't agree that moving weight from the rims where it rotates in toward the hub is a good idea. Even though you said it was just earlier. It's no surprised that rim brake holdouts are confused, as we can see here.
Forgive my ignorance but it's not a 1 to 1 weight transfer when you are comparing rim brake wheels to disk brake wheels. If I could that just move the same amount of weight in, that would be simple but moving more weight in complicates things right?

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Old 12-01-16, 07:29 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by RedVVing19
November wheels (white industry hubs with Pacanti hoops), the hubs a wonderful but as Psiment has mentioned about tubeless it is almost impossible sometimes to get a tire on. So much so that I've thought about getting them rebuilt with a different hoop.

Its not a fault of November themselves.

Sorry for the crappy vid, but the technique really really works.
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Old 12-01-16, 08:07 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by November Dave
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd0QsdCwq6E

Sorry for the crappy vid, but the technique really really works.
I am aware of the technique, but it really depends on the choice of tire. Some tires are almost a complete no go with the rim
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Old 12-01-16, 08:49 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by RedVVing19
November wheels (white industry hubs with Pacanti hoops), the hubs a wonderful but as Psimet has mentioned about tubeless it is almost impossible sometimes to get a tire on. So much so that I've thought about getting them rebuilt with a different hoop.

Its not a fault of November themselves.
Agreed. Between this and the constant quality issues with the rims I completely stopped building with the SL23 V1 and V2 going on the better part of a year. Even with the newer version I have had customers call up while on a ride with a flat cussing me out. Even while I explain what they need to do its already checked off in their head as way overly complicated and something that has made their life worse - not better. Even if I was behind the design there's not much of a point in supporting it if no matter what the customer just don't agree.
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Old 12-01-16, 08:55 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest
So you don't agree that moving weight from the rims where it rotates in toward the hub is a good idea. Even though you said it was just earlier. It's no surprised that rim brake holdouts are confused, as we can see here.
Why would you want to add weight to the hub? Adding weight is always bad. You should be avoiding unnecessary weight, not moving it. Tubular rims avoid the excess weight - period.

Disk brakes fall into the category of unnecessary weight. In addition to the extra risk of getting cut up in a crash, and the increased chance of a peloton pile-up, there is the downsides of rubbing disks, the slow and cumbersome wheel changes, the lack of standards, and idiotic developments such as through-axles. But the bottom line is that they are less aero, and heavy and in a road racing environment, unnecessary. High-level road racing with disks will happen about the same time as the peloton changes over to clinchers: which is never.
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Old 12-01-16, 09:09 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer

Disk brakes fall into the category of unnecessary weight. In addition to the extra risk of getting cut up in a crash, and the increased chance of a peloton pile-up, there is the downsides of rubbing disks, the slow and cumbersome wheel changes, the lack of standards, and idiotic developments such as through-axles. But the bottom line is that they are less aero, and heavy and in a road racing environment, unnecessary. High-level road racing with disks will happen about the same time as the peloton changes over to clinchers: which is never.


I'm not one that believes disc are a huge improvement, but your beliefs leave me shaking my head.
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Old 12-01-16, 09:37 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
Agreed. Between this and the constant quality issues with the rims I completely stopped building with the SL23 V1 and V2 going on the better part of a year. Even with the newer version I have had customers call up while on a ride with a flat cussing me out. Even while I explain what they need to do its already checked off in their head as way overly complicated and something that has made their life worse - not better. Even if I was behind the design there's not much of a point in supporting it if no matter what the customer just don't agree.
Funny I was on a group ride and got a flat, everyone was giving me sh*t about getting the tire back on until I had them try. Its totally doable but not fun
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Old 12-01-16, 09:47 PM
  #160  
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I've said it so many times, but apparently not enough. Just get a damned VAR tire tool. Never fails to mount a tire and never tears a tube. Good enough to use in your home shop. Small enough to carry on your rides. Why are we even talking about tires being hard to mount. With the right tool no tire is hard to mount on any rim.
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Old 12-01-16, 09:58 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Why are we even talking about tires being hard to mount. With the right tool no tire is hard to mount on any rim.
Most people were born with right tools, but some can't figure out how to use them.
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Old 12-01-16, 10:32 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup
Most people were born with right tools, but some can't figure out how to use them.
My fingers have worked just fine for me. They even work getting my clincher tires on my tubeless rims. No levers needed.
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Old 12-02-16, 07:04 AM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
I've said it so many times, but apparently not enough. Just get a damned VAR tire tool. Never fails to mount a tire and never tears a tube. Good enough to use in your home shop. Small enough to carry on your rides. Why are we even talking about tires being hard to mount. With the right tool no tire is hard to mount on any rim.
Obviously you never had to mount a 23mm tire on a Giant PSLR-1 aero rim. Tire mounting on these things is the reason why I no longer own them.
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Old 12-02-16, 07:17 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by RedVVing19
Funny I was on a group ride and got a flat, everyone was giving me sh*t about getting the tire back on until I had them try. Its totally doable but not fun
Sorry you're having that experience. We're happy to help you put new rims on them if that's what you want to do. Lots and lots of good options out there, many that reliably take less effort to install tires.

Making no excuses/being an apologist for tubeless whatsoever, rims that offer a... more secure fit long pre-date tubeless rims. My brother has an ancient wheel that he uses on the trainer, and called me up yesterday swearing a blue streak about how impossible it is to get a tire on the thing and could he come over and swipe some tire levers. Some older Campy rims are legendary for being impossible to put tires onto. HED Belgium+ tubeless are generally easier tire installation than HED C2 which isn't tubeless, as an example. DT R460 and Kinlin XR31 are both tubeless and have really easy tire install.

Most challenging tire install I've ever done was onto an AX Lightness carbon tubeless clincher. That took every trick in the book, plus some new ones, to accomplish.
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Old 12-02-16, 08:29 AM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
I've said it so many times, but apparently not enough. Just get a damned VAR tire tool. Never fails to mount a tire and never tears a tube. Good enough to use in your home shop. Small enough to carry on your rides. Why are we even talking about tires being hard to mount. With the right tool no tire is hard to mount on any rim.
Doesn't look particularly 'small', I am seeing 7.28 inches in length. Quite a bit larger than most levers.
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Old 12-04-16, 08:50 PM
  #166  
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At home, I just use a beefy flatblade screwdriver for difficult tire/rim combinations. I know it's "illegal", but done carefully, it works well.

Why do different rim tapes make much difference?
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Old 12-05-16, 01:12 AM
  #167  
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I successfully use a 7 inches chef knife to remove stubborn tubeless tires, never fails...
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Old 12-05-16, 11:36 AM
  #168  
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I use a sawzall on mtb tires that I'm not going to re-use. But the Pedro brand wide plastic levers have gotten all kinds of hard to mount tires on from mtb to cx to road. Also my manly strength helps but you can't buy that.
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Old 12-05-16, 12:26 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by franswa
Doesn't look particularly 'small', I am seeing 7.28 inches in length. Quite a bit larger than most levers.
Perhaps you're thinking of the Kool Stop bead jack. The VAR bead jack rpenmanparker refers to is barely 5-1/2" long, quite comparable to standard tire levers.

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Old 12-05-16, 01:54 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by franswa
Doesn't look particularly 'small', I am seeing 7.28 inches in length.
If it makes you feel better....
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Old 12-05-16, 02:02 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Perhaps you're thinking of the Kool Stop bead jack. The VAR bead jack rpenmanparker refers to is barely 5-1/2" long, quite comparable to standard tire levers.

Hey, that's not too bad then! I stand corrected.


Originally Posted by redfooj
If it makes you feel better....
Okay.
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Old 12-05-16, 04:50 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01
Why do different rim tapes make much difference?
Different rim tapes make an ENORMOUS difference. God help you if you use Velox on a rim that's tight in the first place.

The reason why it makes a difference is that the smaller the diameter of the circle you are trying to get the tire onto, the more easily the tire goes on. The diameter of the channel or well in a tubeless rim, or just the flat tire bed, in a non-tubeless rim, increases with thick rim tape. That makes tire installation harder. If anyone reading this has a rim that's tough to get tires on and is using anything other than a Stan's-type tubeless tape (or any thin strong tape), give the thin tape a try. I guarantee it will be transformative to your experience. Guaranteed.
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Old 12-05-16, 06:25 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by November Dave
Different rim tapes make an ENORMOUS difference. God help you if you use Velox on a rim that's tight in the first place.
+1

6K miles on clincher wheels, lots of flats, no issues repairing. Broken spoke, rebuild wheel, throw out thin plastic rim "tape", install Velox. Much cursing on subsequent flat trying to get tire off! (Didn't put 2 and 2 together until just now.)

So my upgrade I regret? Velox rim tape.
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