What is the first thing you should upgrade on a road bike?
#26
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I taught people to drive their high-performance cars, primarily Porsches, on race tracks and road courses for 20+ years, and got that question about changing things on their car over and over from novices who wanted to go faster.
My advice to them holds true for bicycles also. The best way to enjoy cycling more is to do the upgrades in this order, giving yourself time in between each step to get comfortable with the changes you made:
1) Improve your ability & get to know your current bike - get lots of seat time
2) Upgrade things that touch the road (i.e. tires, wheels)
3) Upgrade things that touch you, (i.e. saddle, pedals, shoes, etc) and finally
4) Upgrade bicycle components
My advice to them holds true for bicycles also. The best way to enjoy cycling more is to do the upgrades in this order, giving yourself time in between each step to get comfortable with the changes you made:
1) Improve your ability & get to know your current bike - get lots of seat time
2) Upgrade things that touch the road (i.e. tires, wheels)
3) Upgrade things that touch you, (i.e. saddle, pedals, shoes, etc) and finally
4) Upgrade bicycle components
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#27
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Another vote for Fit First. Mostly, though, with a new bike, that's about adjusting the locations of things rather than replacing them. The two exceptions would be the stem because that's generally only adjustable vertically, and the saddle because that's such an individual thing - it works, or it doesn't. Pretty much any bike I've ever bought, the saddle isn't good for me. Sometimes, you can tell right off. Sometimes it takes a 10 mile ride. Sometimes, it takes 40, but always, always, always I have to replace the saddle. With a brand new bike, that's generally it till something wears out, the first of which would be the tires.
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#28
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The bike in the pic that I posted earlier had 42mm bars on it when I bought it. I tried to ride it like that for a little while, but it never felt right. I swapped the bars to 44s, and that was it - perfect. I have wide shoulders for my 5'-9" height, and 44s have always felt right. As a former sprinter, I always preferred the increased leverage, too. That said, my brain was programmed on this stuff before marginal aero gains were a thing people really considered.
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Last edited by Eric F; 08-30-23 at 09:55 AM.
#29
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Agree, 46 is very wide. I used to see bikes for 5'-10" - 6 ft riders at 44. 42 is usually too narrow, but some 6ft foks are skinny and it's fine.
#30
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Even things like shoes matter. I seem to get by just fine with MTB type Shimano SPD pedals and shoes on my road bikes, but you can have a shoe fitting with arch support etc. to reduce foot hot spots. Another one is making your handlebars comfortable to reduce numbness, especially in the nerve on the outer part of the hand that makes the little finger numb. There, gell pads like Nitto Bananas, Specialized bar shapers and bars suitable for your shoulder width can all play a part. A lot of people go for excessively narrow saddles, which can hurt, but the saddle really depends on the stem in many ways, in that the saddle shape may need to change depending on how for forward you are hunched, and that is related to stem length. There are a lot of newer saddles that are short and wide--see Specialized's range--that help with comfort, but measuring your sit bones is never a bad idea.
Riders are never stuck with the components that come stock with their bike, and for relatively little money (especially if you flip the takeoffs) you can have a much more comfortable riding experience.
Riders are never stuck with the components that come stock with their bike, and for relatively little money (especially if you flip the takeoffs) you can have a much more comfortable riding experience.
FWIW, I currently have a 380mm bar. Works very well for me.
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Last edited by daihard; 08-30-23 at 10:05 AM.
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Agree with the saddle votes. OEM saddles are commodity grade unless the bike is mid or high-tier. Even then, is it a good fit for your rear?
Am also finding some OEM saddles have little fore-aft adjustment range.
Bar tape/grips can be another tweak and luckily, are relatively cheap and easy to swap.
Am also finding some OEM saddles have little fore-aft adjustment range.
Bar tape/grips can be another tweak and luckily, are relatively cheap and easy to swap.
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Never understood the fear of cyclists in team kit.
What is team kit anyway? Bianchi had a team.
I just wish I wasn't so much like this guy = turkey neck, wrinkly knees, impaired vision, wonky clown shoes. And I hear many younger hotshots pass him all the time, regardless of their clothing.
Upgrade from this rider - at any cost.
What is team kit anyway? Bianchi had a team.
I just wish I wasn't so much like this guy = turkey neck, wrinkly knees, impaired vision, wonky clown shoes. And I hear many younger hotshots pass him all the time, regardless of their clothing.
Upgrade from this rider - at any cost.
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What, nobody's going mention getting a Ceramic Speed oversize derailleur pulley? They look really trick, and might even save a Watt. For a mere three or four hundred bucks, who wouldn't want these benefits?
#34
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I'd switch out the frame first, unless the spoke nipples were sub-standard.
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This photo illustrates the correct answer to the original question, i.e., the first thing to upgrade is not a bike component, but one's kit to match one's new road bike.
Eric F you sexy beast!
Eric F you sexy beast!
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The first order of business upon buying an Ultegra road bike is to carefully inspect the drivetrain to make sure that the manufacturer or its prior owner has not slipped in a 105 component (e.g., cassette or chain) to save a few dollars. If that happens to be the case, you curse the penny pinching fool and immediately set upon upgrading the offending 105 component(s) to the corresponding Ultegra counterparts, thereby satisfying your inner OCD and weight weenie.
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This photo illustrates the correct answer to the original question, i.e., the first thing to upgrade is not a bike component, but one's kit to match one's new road bike.
Eric F you sexy beast!
Eric F you sexy beast!
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#38
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Eric F you sexy beast!
The glasses - must be a S.CA too much sunshine thing. Presuming Eaton Designs preceded Stork. Eaton jersey would match my latest bike, need one (seriously).
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#39
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When I buy a new bike, I find it more economical to get one already equipped with the components I want. The only real upgrade I need is the saddle, as no new bike I have ever test ridden or bought was equipped with a good saddle. I’ll do more upgrades as parts wear out and need to be replaced.
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From a cycling perspective - if that's a compact double the cassette has a big bailout cog, so short of beast. And sexy = well, can't tell from pic if legs are shaved? At least the face is.
The glasses - must be a S.CA too much sunshine thing. Presuming Eaton Designs preceded Stork. Eaton jersey would match my latest bike, need one (seriously).
The glasses - must be a S.CA too much sunshine thing. Presuming Eaton Designs preceded Stork. Eaton jersey would match my latest bike, need one (seriously).
Those Oakleys have been replaced by newer ones, more recently.
Eaton Designs Racing is a club/team run by one of my best friends, and the colors have evolved over the years. These days, it's mostly ex-racers who still like to go fast once in a while. The bike and the kit matching was a coincidence. I bought the bike used, and it had actually been custom-painted to match the team kit of the guy I bought it from.
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#41
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When I buy a new bike, I find it more economical to get one already equipped with the components I want. The only real upgrade I need is the saddle, as no new bike I have ever test ridden or bought was equipped with a good saddle. I’ll do more upgrades as parts wear out and need to be replaced.
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If the bike is blue, upgrade the color. Studies have statically shown that blue bikes are the slowest.
#44
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Looks a match. Two blues and some white.
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#45
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LOL. Eaton Designs is a custom cabinetry and woodworking business. Eaton Designs Racing is a bike club. My friend is the owner of both. PM me your email address, and I’ll make sure you’re in the loop for the next club kit order. Go ahead and buy a bike, though, so you’re ready when the kit comes. Hopefully, there won’t be a big color change on the next re-design.
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#46
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Upgrade!
yeah need the jersey for the colors.
yeah need the jersey for the colors.
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#48
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It's a lot less about height and a lot more about shoulder width. I have broad shoulders (I wear a 50 suit jacket for the shoulders, not for the gut I admittedly have) and I like 46cm or 48cm Nitto Noodle bars. Someone else who is my height (6'3") but with narrower shoulders very likely would prefer narrower bars.
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I have upgraded most bikes I have owned - but never underestimate the pleasure of N+1. The two practices are not or should not be mutually exclusive.
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