Swift folders
#1401
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Perhaps hard to tell on a fixie, but do you also get a 'BRRRRRRRR' sensation from the wheels at about 36km/h? I still have that, very mysterious...
#1405
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Location: Arizona
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Beautiful pics. I want it!
I'm planning on getting a Swift. What advice can I get on choosing between the Brooklyn Swift, aluminum, vs. the Eugene Swift, cromoly steel? I weigh 230 unclothed. Brooklyn said that he could get one to me in 3 weeks, Eugene 3 months.
I'm planning on getting a Swift. What advice can I get on choosing between the Brooklyn Swift, aluminum, vs. the Eugene Swift, cromoly steel? I weigh 230 unclothed. Brooklyn said that he could get one to me in 3 weeks, Eugene 3 months.
#1407
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I meant to say that with clothes and gear I could be loading down the bike with 250+. I take it the Swift is one of the few, if not the only, folders that can handle that weight.
#1408
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Location: White Plains, NY
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I'm 260 Lbs and the aluminum Xootr Swift has been handling the load without any problems so far. I changed the tires to 1.75" Schwalbe Marathon w/kevlar guard (No flats yet).
#1409
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Any word on the steel Swifts yet? I've been thinking about getting the nexus 8 hub for my swift but chose to wait out for the steel one.
#1410
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what size big apples can I fit on my swift? Does anyone have any pictures of a swift with the BA's mounted?
#1411
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#1412
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I recently found some handlebars that I can cut really short and still use a breaklever with some space between the grip and the lever. So I gradually cutted down the handlebars to my perfect lenght (38cm).
It rides delightful in heavy traffic, as the bike fits thru the smallest gaps.
And I finally got a verrrrry suitable break-lever that replaces the modern style avid speed dial, that never really fitted on this setup. It is a perfectly CNC milled "Real"-lever that I find very beautiful.
Ah yes and:
This is a clip that was broadcasted on austrian Television (sorry, the narration is german only). In some small sequences you can spot a crazy swift-folder rider (myself) in the middle of an alleycat race. That was fun!
https://youtube.com/watch?v=SQpKqZykw80
It rides delightful in heavy traffic, as the bike fits thru the smallest gaps.
And I finally got a verrrrry suitable break-lever that replaces the modern style avid speed dial, that never really fitted on this setup. It is a perfectly CNC milled "Real"-lever that I find very beautiful.
Ah yes and:
This is a clip that was broadcasted on austrian Television (sorry, the narration is german only). In some small sequences you can spot a crazy swift-folder rider (myself) in the middle of an alleycat race. That was fun!
https://youtube.com/watch?v=SQpKqZykw80
#1413
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Carlisle, in England's Lake District, just a few miles south of the border with Scotland.
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Bikes: A Bianchi C2C road bike, a steel framed touring bike and a Xootr Swift folder which has made the rest redundant!
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I am thinking of upgrading the chainwheel/cranks/bottom bracket of my Swift but retaining the 8 speed SRAM derailleur. If anyone else has done this how did you get on? What BB make and length did you use and what make of chainwheel/crank did you fit and how did it affect the chainline etc. First I will need to either take a body building course or down some steroids to remove the old BB - is the thing welded in?!!
#1414
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Location: Kentucky
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Having a hard time removing the bottom bracket cups? Remember, the right-hand cup (drive side) is reverse threaded!
I built up my Swift frame from scratch, using a Sugino crankset (RD maybe?) & the recommended 103mm spindle. Works for me.
I built up my Swift frame from scratch, using a Sugino crankset (RD maybe?) & the recommended 103mm spindle. Works for me.
I am thinking of upgrading the chainwheel/cranks/bottom bracket of my Swift but retaining the 8 speed SRAM derailleur. If anyone else has done this how did you get on? What BB make and length did you use and what make of chainwheel/crank did you fit and how did it affect the chainline etc. First I will need to either take a body building course or down some steroids to remove the old BB - is the thing welded in?!!
#1415
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Location: Carlisle, in England's Lake District, just a few miles south of the border with Scotland.
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Bikes: A Bianchi C2C road bike, a steel framed touring bike and a Xootr Swift folder which has made the rest redundant!
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Yes I know all about the threads on bottom brackets as I have built many bicycles from scratch over the last few years. The BB fitted to the Swift does seem to be a really tight fit. I seem to remember other Swift owners having great difficulty removing the BB installed by the factory. Thanks for the info about the crankset.
#1416
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Location: Arizona
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Having a hard time removing the bottom bracket cups? Remember, the right-hand cup (drive side) is reverse threaded!
______________
You've got that backwards!
______________
You've got that backwards!
#1417
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I've got it right, unless you're working on
an old bike that uses French or Italian b.b.
Check with Sheldon Brown - https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom
also see - https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/left.html
Maybe you're confusing b.b. & pedals - left pedals are reverse threaded.
#1418
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"It can be a pain in some situations. I've seen a report of Loctite used on the BB. I had a seized BB on my Swift due to rust. I've had excellent results in removing the bottom bracket on my new Swift with the following method:
1.) Get a 25" breaker bar
2.) Get a BB socket
-Remove the wheels and place the frame (drive-side facing you) on a carpeted floor against a wall for support. Put your left foot on the chainstay just behind the seat tube, hold the socket in place with your left hand and push down on the breaker bar with your right hand. Put your weight into it, if need be, and the BB should easily give-way. Now turn the frame around and repeat, this time pulling up on the breaker bar.
The key here is torque, and a 25" breaker bar provides plenty of it."
Jonathan
#1419
All ur bike r belong Enki
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The threads on the bottom bracket of my new Swift had some blue stuff on it, which I assume is loctite. My trusty breaker bar made quick and easy work of it.
Here's the 1/2" breaker bar:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30395
Nashbar used to have a bottom bracket 1/2" drive socket. You might need to do some searching.
Here's the 1/2" breaker bar:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30395
Nashbar used to have a bottom bracket 1/2" drive socket. You might need to do some searching.
#1420
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: san francisco
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Bikes: '35 Cycleplane, '87 Stumpjumper, '05 Xootr Swift
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Fixed Swift dilemma
To complete the fixed gear conversion on my Swixt Xootr I ordered a Surly fixed/free 130mm rear hub (32h polished) from a good friend who works at a local IBS. I gave him a new alloy rim and asked him to build me a wheel. (He'd already built me a beautiful radially-spoked front wheel with matching rim and Surly front hub).
When I went to fit the new rear fixed wheel, I found that it had a 120mm spacing at the axle nut stops.
Naturally I took it back. He apologized and said he'd get me the 130mm hub and rebuild it.
A month later my wheel was ready again. On inspection it looked like the same width hub, with a fat shim added to space out the axle nut stops to 130mm.
My tire is now noticeably off center to the RH or drive side (the fat shim is on the LH side). I think my buddy just slapped in a shim spacer and forgot about wheel alignment. I asked him about this and he insists he re-ordered a new 130mm hub from Surly and reinstalled it into my wheel. He says he still has the old 120mm hub.... they didn't want it back.
So why didnt he lace up the rim centered on the axle stop width?
My question is this: does Surly use the same exact hub shell on the 120mm and 130mm fixed/free hubs? Is this fat spacer how they can offer both widths, or am I being fed a line of bull?
Aaaarghhhh.
When I went to fit the new rear fixed wheel, I found that it had a 120mm spacing at the axle nut stops.
Naturally I took it back. He apologized and said he'd get me the 130mm hub and rebuild it.
A month later my wheel was ready again. On inspection it looked like the same width hub, with a fat shim added to space out the axle nut stops to 130mm.
My tire is now noticeably off center to the RH or drive side (the fat shim is on the LH side). I think my buddy just slapped in a shim spacer and forgot about wheel alignment. I asked him about this and he insists he re-ordered a new 130mm hub from Surly and reinstalled it into my wheel. He says he still has the old 120mm hub.... they didn't want it back.
So why didnt he lace up the rim centered on the axle stop width?
My question is this: does Surly use the same exact hub shell on the 120mm and 130mm fixed/free hubs? Is this fat spacer how they can offer both widths, or am I being fed a line of bull?
Aaaarghhhh.
#1421
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[...]
My tire is now noticeably off center to the RH or drive side (the fat shim is on the LH side). I think my buddy just slapped in a shim spacer and forgot about wheel alignment. I asked him about this and he insists he re-ordered a new 130mm hub from Surly and reinstalled it into my wheel. He says he still has the old 120mm hub....[...]
My tire is now noticeably off center to the RH or drive side (the fat shim is on the LH side). I think my buddy just slapped in a shim spacer and forgot about wheel alignment. I asked him about this and he insists he re-ordered a new 130mm hub from Surly and reinstalled it into my wheel. He says he still has the old 120mm hub....[...]
The only issues are the alignment of the rim and the lenght of the axle, nothing else. So I actually think that Surly DO use the same parts for 120mm and 130mm hubs, apart from the axle. It just wouldn't pay off to construct two different shells for the missing 5mm on each side, considering that there is still some space needed to adjust the cainline for different setups.
Some early track-hubs are spaced 110mm. They got respaced to later 120 track-standard and used for international competitions without any concern or troubles... So I wouldn't worry too much and simply adjust the rim to the center, smash the spare hub on ebay and ride your fine fixie...
EDIT: I actually ride a very vintage 110mm trackhub spaced to 120mm on my track-racer... it works fine and 120 to 130 is not much difference.
#1422
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Location: san francisco
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Bikes: '35 Cycleplane, '87 Stumpjumper, '05 Xootr Swift
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Here is what Surly just told me
What Hurley said in response to my email just now...
"All of our hubs use completely different hub shells. That spacer is not
normal. Let me know if you have any other questions, that one sounds
like a bummer, sorry.
Thanks for asking,
Emily Richard
Surly Bikes"
"All of our hubs use completely different hub shells. That spacer is not
normal. Let me know if you have any other questions, that one sounds
like a bummer, sorry.
Thanks for asking,
Emily Richard
Surly Bikes"
Last edited by hulagun; 01-18-08 at 03:30 PM.
#1423
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sorry for getting you on the wrong track.
#1424
All ur bike r belong Enki
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To complete the fixed gear conversion on my Swixt Xootr I ordered a Surly fixed/free 130mm rear hub (32h polished) from a good friend who works at a local IBS. I gave him a new alloy rim and asked him to build me a wheel. (He'd already built me a beautiful radially-spoked front wheel with matching rim and Surly front hub).
When I went to fit the new rear fixed wheel, I found that it had a 120mm spacing at the axle nut stops.
Naturally I took it back. He apologized and said he'd get me the 130mm hub and rebuild it.
A month later my wheel was ready again. On inspection it looked like the same width hub, with a fat shim added to space out the axle nut stops to 130mm.
My tire is now noticeably off center to the RH or drive side (the fat shim is on the LH side). I think my buddy just slapped in a shim spacer and forgot about wheel alignment. I asked him about this and he insists he re-ordered a new 130mm hub from Surly and reinstalled it into my wheel. He says he still has the old 120mm hub.... they didn't want it back.
So why didnt he lace up the rim centered on the axle stop width?
My question is this: does Surly use the same exact hub shell on the 120mm and 130mm fixed/free hubs? Is this fat spacer how they can offer both widths, or am I being fed a line of bull?
Aaaarghhhh.
When I went to fit the new rear fixed wheel, I found that it had a 120mm spacing at the axle nut stops.
Naturally I took it back. He apologized and said he'd get me the 130mm hub and rebuild it.
A month later my wheel was ready again. On inspection it looked like the same width hub, with a fat shim added to space out the axle nut stops to 130mm.
My tire is now noticeably off center to the RH or drive side (the fat shim is on the LH side). I think my buddy just slapped in a shim spacer and forgot about wheel alignment. I asked him about this and he insists he re-ordered a new 130mm hub from Surly and reinstalled it into my wheel. He says he still has the old 120mm hub.... they didn't want it back.
So why didnt he lace up the rim centered on the axle stop width?
My question is this: does Surly use the same exact hub shell on the 120mm and 130mm fixed/free hubs? Is this fat spacer how they can offer both widths, or am I being fed a line of bull?
Aaaarghhhh.
#1425
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Pic of New Swift Folder
Pic of the (prototype) new steel frame straight from Peter. He said to expect them in April or May. The penciled-in pivot shows a different means of securing the frame than current. Makes for a smaller fold to fit in a 62" Samsonite Oyster suitcase without disassembly.
Last edited by mattdd; 01-23-08 at 10:30 AM. Reason: Added more info