turky lurkey

Thanks,
Here is my serial # 7FC8654 Strangely it doesn't fit with with the pattern described for the centurion/diamond back bikes in the sites I found so I'm still not positive about the year. I'm thinking the 7 in the beginning probably means made in '87, but hard to be sure. Interestingly though the 7F seems to be stamped a bit more lightly than the rest so maybe it's an '88, or '86. Wish I knew.

BluesDaddy

...and now I know where all the AMP forks have gone. Save some for the rest of us!

likebike23

This thread has gotten absolutely awesome lately. Thanks to Eastcoaststeve's S&S and wheeltired's awesome collection, I've been inspired to start a 26" BMX/cruiser type build. I've got a 1988 Schwinn Sierra frame in cyan blue and chrome with chainstay u-brake bosses. I'm going to go with the sunlite cruiser fork:https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cruise.../dp/B0014CBNT0. There are no brake bosses so I figured I'd go with u-brakes mounted to an adapter plate like neo-pop showed. I scored one today at a local shop that had been hanging around for 15 years for only $5.

I have a couple of questions for you guys. Does the adapter plate for u-brakes work on 26" setups? Is there a real difference between u-brakes labeled as "front" vs. "rear" or is it like canti's where you just change the pads? Finally, the u-brake adapter I picked up is raw steel and has a little oxidation (see pics). What would you guys do? Sand it down and paint it? Clearcoat it? Polish and clearcoat? Let me know what you think. Thanks, Mike

gabriel1

1992 kona explosif set up for asphalt, hardpack and gravel trails

cyclotoine

I`d do an oxalic acid bath in my ultra sonic then I`d spray bomb it with a rust paint in silver or black, which ever color of caliper I was using, but don`t paint the posts

WNG

Doesn't look too bad...take a wire wheel on a drill to it, or dip in oxalic acid. Take all the rust off first, then paint it or powdercoat it.

Elev12k

Gazelle offered a model with the same frame: the Skyhawk. An all XT bike. It was Gazelle's top of the line offering for the production bikes. Above it sat the handbuilt in Dieren Champion Mondial ATB and All Terrain Bike models.

blilrat

Put a zero or negative rise stem on there and you'd have a funny bike for the trails.

Glennfordx4

If this was aimed at me, my 26" wheels & tires are wider then most BMX setups I see and I also didn't know if there is any height differences from the brake bridge on a 20" bike vs a 26" bike.


Glenn

neo_pop_71

That is easily one of the craziest mountain bike frames I've ever seen! How well does it ride? The seat tube looks insanely long... what size frame do you typically ride?

BluesDaddy

This is marked "XL 23.5" but I typically ride a 19-20" in MTBs. Since the frame is so kooky I don't think size really matters. The saddle to bar drop is a bit much though. The (OEM) seatpost is more like a road post in length; carbon-wrapped alloy. The ride is typical of rigid steel bikes.

Gravity Aided

Kind of looks like a time trial bike.

WheelTired

I have an extra amp fork laying around !!

Picked up the mother load of Vintage BMX bikes today, 18 total. wrong thread though.
ParkPre 24", Elf 24", S predador 24", mongoose, diamond backs..moto1's, KHS, Kuwahara's, Boss bikes...sick collection.

WheelTired

I have an extra amp fork laying around you can possibly have.....what are going to do with it ? they suck to ride.

Picked up the mother load of Vintage BMX bikes today, 18 total. wrong thread though.
ParkPre 24", Elf 24", S predador 24", mongoose, diamond backs..moto1's, KHS, Kuwahara's, Boss bikes...sick collection buyout. closer to that vintage bike shop retirement....lol


Can't believe HARO sold ONE of these bikes,,,,,,let alone TWO.
Put that seat up to the proper position....TT BIKE FOR SURE>

Haro should have patented the pedal forward design....could be having words with ELECTRA.

highlux

I have a thread....but here is my 96 Gt karakorum. Original down to the nipples on the tires still. I'd say a 9.5/10 easy as condition goes. Bought her new to replace a Trek I broke chainstays on bunny hopping a curb. Im tuning her up to ride after Im healed up.

WheelTired

That is awesome. I still have the first ever mountain bike I bought brand new @ A Racers Edge In Breckenride Co.....1990 GT Avalanche, whit w/blue spec.

Chris Chicago

Picked up a lugged 92 trek 970 in sour grape. really nice shape. 22in size but seems smaller due to seat tube extending a good bit above tt.

at 80 bucks easy buy but not sure what to do with it honestly. probably small for me and I'm never off road. ill put a longer stem on and see how it goes.

bres dad

This is a '98 Schwinn Moab 2 I bought new I started doing a standard tune up on but snowballed into a complete refit/upgrade. I ended up replacing about 75% of the bike, the only original parts being drivetrain (replaced the chain), seat post & frame. OK the brake levers are stock... Thought about buying a new MTB with disc brakes but I didn't like the 29er's and mine was low miles and I like the way it rides so why replace it? Plus it was alot cheaper than buying a whole new bike. New rims, tires, flat bar, grips, fork & stem plus the stuff for the disc conversion. I'm still looking for a shorter fork as the new one is about 1.5" taller but the old one didn't have caliper mounts and I'm not overly thrilled with the way the bike handles now but its something I can live with.



This is my wife's Trek 6000. Did an overhaul on it after I made my Moab into a frankenbike. Just did the basics (tires, cables, basic tune up) and didn't go the full length I did with mine. I've got a spare set of disc compatible rims so I may do a disc brake conversion on hers in the future. She likes the disc brake but is on the fence about modding hers that much.

surreal

Should work with 26s, depending on the distance between the axle and the hole drilled in your crown. Most u-brakes have a lot of vertcal adjustment for the shoes... Prolly won't work on a suspension-corrected fork...


The main difference between f & r u-brakes,aside from pad orientation,is that front u-brakes tend to be designed for cable routing thru the stem and from up and under....

Assuming you don't intend to do that, you'll want to run a "rear" u-brake front and back, and just switch the pads...

hth,
rob

Kobe 

Knock knock.........Who is it?



Land Shark, Dirt Shark








I just picked this up. It is going to need a complete rebuild (Winter project) along with some new decals. It is a bit small for me, but I will try and make it work with a setback seat post.

Guessing by the chain stay brake I am guessing it is a mid to late 80's bike. I don't think that setup lasted very long, but if someone has a better idea of it's age please let me know.

jgedwa

If it is too small for you and you want to let it loose into the wild again, let me know.

jim

cyclotoine

That is mega cool, it really should get new paint, I know it's only original once but it deserves to be resurrected in all it's neon glory! Too small? The looks like a 20" frame. I would say it is good up to 6'3" but of course you cannot use anything other than that original stem so that might be a little limiting.

Kobe 

I was thinking about a repaint, but most of the paint was protected by the decals. I think if I strip and replace the decals and touch up the paint it will look much better. The beauty of the wild paint job is that it makes it harder not to mess it up.

I have been looking for a 66cm Land Shark road bike for ages, and this Dirt Shark has was 10 minutes from my house. I would usually ride a 23" mountain bike, but how often would one of those come up in a Land Shark.

Kobe 

Jim, I will let you know. I plan to at least give it a year or until something closer to my size come along. I am amazed by the craftsmanship that went into the frame, how someone could treat it so badly is sad.

OTS 

You guys love mountain bikes.
I love mountain bikes as well.
Would anyone be willing to facilitate a vintage classic mountain bike frame and fork in Boston?
PM me if able and willing
thanks,
Rick