Please Advise! Brake Levers for Converted Road Bike (Drop to Riser Bar)
10-08-20, 04:47 PM
#26
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Just figured out this Multi-quote thing!
@BlazingPedals Correct, thx!
@Thomas15 My local bike guy had the same reaction as you-- was skeptical until I brought it in and was really excited about making it work for me if possible. Said he would take it for himself if it were his size LOL.
Yes, 27 1.25. Still learning about wheels/tires. I've been told I can't easily get wider tires but it was unclear if that was due to shortages.
As for the handlebar and levers, I don't love how narrow the drop bar is even when riding on the flats and I want the height from the riser.
@ramzilla thanks for including the photos. if i may ask, what makes it so expensive?
ka123,
This is a nice bike....
...your appear to be 27" but your bike also doesn't have suicide brake levers that came with the Sport. All this to say it is in my opinion a decent bike from that time era. The fact that you have side pull brakes makes the proposed work slightly more practical...
...here is something to consider, brake lever interrupters. This would allow you to place your hands on the top of the handlebars you already have. This is a safe alternative to the previously mentioned suicide levers and if acceptable would save you a lot of money and headaches.
This is a nice bike....
...your appear to be 27" but your bike also doesn't have suicide brake levers that came with the Sport. All this to say it is in my opinion a decent bike from that time era. The fact that you have side pull brakes makes the proposed work slightly more practical...
...here is something to consider, brake lever interrupters. This would allow you to place your hands on the top of the handlebars you already have. This is a safe alternative to the previously mentioned suicide levers and if acceptable would save you a lot of money and headaches.
Yes, 27 1.25. Still learning about wheels/tires. I've been told I can't easily get wider tires but it was unclear if that was due to shortages.
As for the handlebar and levers, I don't love how narrow the drop bar is even when riding on the flats and I want the height from the riser.
Sorry but, I've been converting drop bar bikes to upright bars for many years. This one was really amazing. I always replace the stem with a riser type. Always replace the brake levers. It's not that difficult. It's just expensive. I usually charge between $150 to $200 for this job.
10-08-20, 07:06 PM
#27
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Here’s my Schwinn with the Shimano levers. The bars don’t photograph easily because of the black bar tape that runs all the way up beyond the grips. That is key, all along those parts are very useful grip locations, both sitting and standing.
The bars are Sunlite Elson Roadster, which I also recommend highly. It’s essentially an exact copy of the shape of the Nitto/Rivendell Albatross, but just a cheap steel bar.
My task was aided by the fact that I had already converted to single speed, so no need for shifter decisions.
Notice also the tall stem from an old MTB. The bar height at the center is nearly an inch above the saddle height and the swept back section is another inch higher. I can stand directly over the pedals, straight up and reach the grips. I often take a break and coast in that position when heading downhill or when I need to slow down. It also does a good job of air braking.
The bars are Sunlite Elson Roadster, which I also recommend highly. It’s essentially an exact copy of the shape of the Nitto/Rivendell Albatross, but just a cheap steel bar.
My task was aided by the fact that I had already converted to single speed, so no need for shifter decisions.
Notice also the tall stem from an old MTB. The bar height at the center is nearly an inch above the saddle height and the swept back section is another inch higher. I can stand directly over the pedals, straight up and reach the grips. I often take a break and coast in that position when heading downhill or when I need to slow down. It also does a good job of air braking.
Last edited by ofajen; 10-08-20 at 07:19 PM.
10-08-20, 08:12 PM
#28
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@ramzilla thanks for including the photos. if i may ask, what makes it so expensive?[/QUOTE]
Well, since you asked.............................
1. Most bike shops will not convert an old drop bar bike to an upright bar bike. But, they will sell you an entirely new bike. $$$$$$$$
2. When I quote $150 to $200 for an upright conversion that's just to cover the cost of parts. (I do these conversions for practically $0 labor). $$$
3. There are no shortcuts. You need to install new handlebars, grips, levers, shifters, cables, cable covers and, stem for a complete job. $$$
4. The skills, qualifications, ability and, tools necessary to perform a simple modification and repair to a bicycle are rare and practically non-existent in our modern world. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!++++++++
We're living in a time when things wear out or, when things are no longer wanted they're discarded. The knowledge and ability to repair or modify anything doesn't really exist anymore. Young people don't want to learn how to build and repair things anymore. Robots in China can churn out 1000 brand new bikes a day for less than it cost to put a set of new tires on an old racing bike. It's an interesting time to be a vintage bike aficionado. Be good. Have fun.
Well, since you asked.............................
1. Most bike shops will not convert an old drop bar bike to an upright bar bike. But, they will sell you an entirely new bike. $$$$$$$$
2. When I quote $150 to $200 for an upright conversion that's just to cover the cost of parts. (I do these conversions for practically $0 labor). $$$
3. There are no shortcuts. You need to install new handlebars, grips, levers, shifters, cables, cable covers and, stem for a complete job. $$$
4. The skills, qualifications, ability and, tools necessary to perform a simple modification and repair to a bicycle are rare and practically non-existent in our modern world. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!++++++++
We're living in a time when things wear out or, when things are no longer wanted they're discarded. The knowledge and ability to repair or modify anything doesn't really exist anymore. Young people don't want to learn how to build and repair things anymore. Robots in China can churn out 1000 brand new bikes a day for less than it cost to put a set of new tires on an old racing bike. It's an interesting time to be a vintage bike aficionado. Be good. Have fun.
10-09-20, 08:58 AM
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2. When I quote $150 to $200 for an upright conversion that's just to cover the cost of parts. (I do these conversions for practically $0 labor). $$$
3. There are no shortcuts. You need to install new handlebars, grips, levers, shifters, cables, cable covers and, stem for a complete job. $$$
3. There are no shortcuts. You need to install new handlebars, grips, levers, shifters, cables, cable covers and, stem for a complete job. $$$
If you don’t have all that, then it will cost more... but it will be well worth it, if it creates a bike you love to ride!
Otto
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10-09-20, 09:20 AM
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Ramzilla and ofajen are correct in how to convert drop bars to flat/riser.
The only thing I will add is to ride the bike and try to determine how much rise you need and the stem length. No one here can tell you the correct placement of the handlebars but you. Some want a very high upright, some a little more than riding on the drop bar tops, and some the more stretched out vintage mtb setup.
On a 2x flat bar, my preferred shifting setup is a right side trigger (rear derailleur) and left side thumb shifter (front derailleur). This keeps my hands on the handlebars when shifting. The trigger shifter is fast and the thumb shifter allows for easy trim.
John
Edit added: I do my own work, so it is always worth it. If you need to take it to a shop, you need to find one that will appreciate working on older bikes and not just rip you off.
The only thing I will add is to ride the bike and try to determine how much rise you need and the stem length. No one here can tell you the correct placement of the handlebars but you. Some want a very high upright, some a little more than riding on the drop bar tops, and some the more stretched out vintage mtb setup.
On a 2x flat bar, my preferred shifting setup is a right side trigger (rear derailleur) and left side thumb shifter (front derailleur). This keeps my hands on the handlebars when shifting. The trigger shifter is fast and the thumb shifter allows for easy trim.
John
Edit added: I do my own work, so it is always worth it. If you need to take it to a shop, you need to find one that will appreciate working on older bikes and not just rip you off.
Last edited by 70sSanO; 10-09-20 at 09:27 AM.
10-09-20, 11:58 AM
#31
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There seems to be some confusion here regards to shifters.As stated in the original post this bike has stem mounted shifters and it will be perfectly fine keeping them as-is. Changing to bar shifters will way exceed the value of this bike and give only marginal improvements to the riding experience.
So to KA123, leave the shifters alone. The cost of this conversion will then be about $30 in parts. You already have Origin 8 bars, you need brake levers as stated and the Oury grips are good. If you are re-using the brake cables (providing they are long enough) you can re-use the outer part only. The inner cables will have different ends - your levers have A or B but you need the type C as used on BMX or MTB bikes (D & E are for gears). Make sure you buy Stainless cables, not galvanized which rust.
So to KA123, leave the shifters alone. The cost of this conversion will then be about $30 in parts. You already have Origin 8 bars, you need brake levers as stated and the Oury grips are good. If you are re-using the brake cables (providing they are long enough) you can re-use the outer part only. The inner cables will have different ends - your levers have A or B but you need the type C as used on BMX or MTB bikes (D & E are for gears). Make sure you buy Stainless cables, not galvanized which rust.
10-09-20, 12:09 PM
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There seems to be some confusion here regards to shifters.As stated in the original post this bike has stem mounted shifters and it will be perfectly fine keeping them as-is. Changing to bar shifters will way exceed the value of this bike and give only marginal improvements to the riding experience.
So to KA123, leave the shifters alone. The cost of this conversion will then be about $30 in parts. You already have Origin 8 bars, you need brake levers as stated and the Oury grips are good. If you are re-using the brake cables (providing they are long enough) you can re-use the outer part only. The inner cables will have different ends - your levers have A or B but you need the type C as used on BMX or MTB bikes (D & E are for gears). Make sure you buy Stainless cables, not galvanized which rust.
So to KA123, leave the shifters alone. The cost of this conversion will then be about $30 in parts. You already have Origin 8 bars, you need brake levers as stated and the Oury grips are good. If you are re-using the brake cables (providing they are long enough) you can re-use the outer part only. The inner cables will have different ends - your levers have A or B but you need the type C as used on BMX or MTB bikes (D & E are for gears). Make sure you buy Stainless cables, not galvanized which rust.
Otto
10-09-20, 02:19 PM
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Well, since you asked.............................
1. Most bike shops will not convert an old drop bar bike to an upright bar bike. But, they will sell you an entirely new bike. $$$$$$$$
2. When I quote $150 to $200 for an upright conversion that's just to cover the cost of parts. (I do these conversions for practically $0 labor). $$$
3. There are no shortcuts. You need to install new handlebars, grips, levers, shifters, cables, cable covers and, stem for a complete job. $$$
4. The skills, qualifications, ability and, tools necessary to perform a simple modification and repair to a bicycle are rare and practically non-existent in our modern world. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!++++++++
Exactly. Add up any likely choices for all those parts and you will be up in that range. Those of us who do our own work, have various old parts in store and keep extra cable supplies on hand can do it for minimal additional expense and pretty quickly.
If you don’t have all that, then it will cost more... but it will be well worth it, if it creates a bike you love to ride!
Otto
If you don’t have all that, then it will cost more... but it will be well worth it, if it creates a bike you love to ride!
Otto
I just installed the new stem, riser bars, brake levers, and grips on my BF's Mercier Kilo TT Pro today and then he brought it in to have the cables properly installed/cut (don't know anything about that) and everything checked. That cost him a a little under $30 I think, but would have been much more if they had installed everything. So that's what I plan to do with mine.
@otto thanks for the pics! are those 2 or 4 finger brake levers? And I'll make a note of that handlebar for the future
I would hate to pay that much just to send it away to be magically put together (which I could watch during the tune up) without any understanding of what's going into it. But being able to learn along the way makes it worth it IMO.
Ramzilla and ofajen are correct in how to convert drop bars to flat/riser.
The only thing I will add is to ride the bike and try to determine how much rise you need and the stem length. No one here can tell you the correct placement of the handlebars but you. Some want a very high upright, some a little more than riding on the drop bar tops, and some the more stretched out vintage mtb setup.
On a 2x flat bar, my preferred shifting setup is a right side trigger (rear derailleur) and left side thumb shifter (front derailleur). This keeps my hands on the handlebars when shifting. The trigger shifter is fast and the thumb shifter allows for easy trim.
John
Edit added: I do my own work, so it is always worth it. If you need to take it to a shop, you need to find one that will appreciate working on older bikes and not just rip you off.
The only thing I will add is to ride the bike and try to determine how much rise you need and the stem length. No one here can tell you the correct placement of the handlebars but you. Some want a very high upright, some a little more than riding on the drop bar tops, and some the more stretched out vintage mtb setup.
On a 2x flat bar, my preferred shifting setup is a right side trigger (rear derailleur) and left side thumb shifter (front derailleur). This keeps my hands on the handlebars when shifting. The trigger shifter is fast and the thumb shifter allows for easy trim.
John
Edit added: I do my own work, so it is always worth it. If you need to take it to a shop, you need to find one that will appreciate working on older bikes and not just rip you off.
There seems to be some confusion here regards to shifters.As stated in the original post this bike has stem mounted shifters and it will be perfectly fine keeping them as-is. Changing to bar shifters will way exceed the value of this bike and give only marginal improvements to the riding experience.
So to KA123, leave the shifters alone. The cost of this conversion will then be about $30 in parts. You already have Origin 8 bars, you need brake levers as stated and the Oury grips are good. If you are re-using the brake cables (providing they are long enough) you can re-use the outer part only. The inner cables will have different ends - your levers have A or B but you need the type C as used on BMX or MTB bikes (D & E are for gears). Make sure you buy Stainless cables, not galvanized which rust.
So to KA123, leave the shifters alone. The cost of this conversion will then be about $30 in parts. You already have Origin 8 bars, you need brake levers as stated and the Oury grips are good. If you are re-using the brake cables (providing they are long enough) you can re-use the outer part only. The inner cables will have different ends - your levers have A or B but you need the type C as used on BMX or MTB bikes (D & E are for gears). Make sure you buy Stainless cables, not galvanized which rust.
Some people say to switch to downtube--any idea why? And had no idea about the ends of the inner cables so I'll make sure to ask about that. I assume it will be included in the tune up since the guy said they'd check them out and replace if necessary. And I swear he said cables are less than $1??Hope everyone is safe and well!
10-09-20, 02:23 PM
#34
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@Thomas15 and anyone else who may know, any idea what the steerer tube diameter is likely to be? Bike is not with me so I can't check. Thanks!
10-09-20, 03:00 PM
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The Shimano levers work great for either two or three finger braking. Not long enough for four.
It seems the R550 version has been discontinued, but I imagine they still sell substantially the same lever under a new label.
The Tektros I have are 314A. They have several current models that look to be much like my Shimano levers.
Otto
It seems the R550 version has been discontinued, but I imagine they still sell substantially the same lever under a new label.
The Tektros I have are 314A. They have several current models that look to be much like my Shimano levers.
Otto
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10-09-20, 08:32 PM
#36
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My latest creation. This one was definitely Velo Orange levers & Shimano Grip Shift in order to take advantage of the existing old 6 speed Shimano SIS drivetrain.
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