What are you doing today(C&V bicycle related)?
04-17-19, 06:39 PM
#1251
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The smallest details helps me see the big picture.
New O rings for the record calipers.
New O rings for the record calipers.
04-17-19, 07:00 PM
#1252
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Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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@ryansu
Many places will not thread a steerer with a manual tool. The claim is that steerers are threaded on a lathe (true statement for new steerers), and you'll wear out the cutting tool. I thought this was the gospel, never cut the threads using a threading tool. The people that go to this church claim the manual tools are for chasing threads, not cutting new ones.
Then I took the UBI framebuilding class, and found that my frame and fork design required a longer threaded steerer than they had in stock. The head instructor found a longer threaded one, handed me the Park threading tool, and told me to have at it.
Bring me that fork, we'll chuck it with some frame clamps in a vice, and you can have at it with my tool. The thing that gets worn out are your arms...
Many places will not thread a steerer with a manual tool. The claim is that steerers are threaded on a lathe (true statement for new steerers), and you'll wear out the cutting tool. I thought this was the gospel, never cut the threads using a threading tool. The people that go to this church claim the manual tools are for chasing threads, not cutting new ones.
Then I took the UBI framebuilding class, and found that my frame and fork design required a longer threaded steerer than they had in stock. The head instructor found a longer threaded one, handed me the Park threading tool, and told me to have at it.
Bring me that fork, we'll chuck it with some frame clamps in a vice, and you can have at it with my tool. The thing that gets worn out are your arms...
04-17-19, 07:04 PM
#1253
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04-17-19, 07:09 PM
#1254
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@ryansu Gugie is right. I have cut steerer threads with a die and it works fine. It works especially well if you already have some pre-existing threads to start the die down - this keeps the die straight and square with the steerer when it starts doing real cutting.
The dies are made of tool steel which is quite a bit harder than the alloy steels nice forks are made. Any claims that threads can't be cut with a die is nonsense. Yes, if you are working under very tight tolerances in a machine shop, a lathe will always cut cleaner threads, but that tight of a tolerance is not even close to being needed for steerer threads.
The only time to be careful with a die is with chrome-plated steerers. The chrome is very hard and might dull the die a bit, depending on the die.
Put either the die or the fork in a vise and make sure you have good leverage on whichever is not clamped down.
The dies are made of tool steel which is quite a bit harder than the alloy steels nice forks are made. Any claims that threads can't be cut with a die is nonsense. Yes, if you are working under very tight tolerances in a machine shop, a lathe will always cut cleaner threads, but that tight of a tolerance is not even close to being needed for steerer threads.
The only time to be careful with a die is with chrome-plated steerers. The chrome is very hard and might dull the die a bit, depending on the die.
Put either the die or the fork in a vise and make sure you have good leverage on whichever is not clamped down.
04-17-19, 10:24 PM
#1256
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@ryansu
Many places will not thread a steerer with a manual tool. The claim is that steerers are threaded on a lathe (true statement for new steerers), and you'll wear out the cutting tool. I thought this was the gospel, never cut the threads using a threading tool. The people that go to this church claim the manual tools are for chasing threads, not cutting new ones.
Then I took the UBI framebuilding class, and found that my frame and fork design required a longer threaded steerer than they had in stock. The head instructor found a longer threaded one, handed me the Park threading tool, and told me to have at it.
Bring me that fork, we'll chuck it with some frame clamps in a vice, and you can have at it with my tool. The thing that gets worn out are your arms...
Many places will not thread a steerer with a manual tool. The claim is that steerers are threaded on a lathe (true statement for new steerers), and you'll wear out the cutting tool. I thought this was the gospel, never cut the threads using a threading tool. The people that go to this church claim the manual tools are for chasing threads, not cutting new ones.
Then I took the UBI framebuilding class, and found that my frame and fork design required a longer threaded steerer than they had in stock. The head instructor found a longer threaded one, handed me the Park threading tool, and told me to have at it.
Bring me that fork, we'll chuck it with some frame clamps in a vice, and you can have at it with my tool. The thing that gets worn out are your arms...
When I asked Elliott Bay Cycles to extend the treads on a replacement fork with a very long steerer tube, they said said they’d only add 1/2” maximum, while I was looking for much more (it was really long steerer, and I was putting it in a 60cm frame). I eventually found a shop that would do it with a die. It wasn’t a difficult process. @ryansu, the shop that did that extension was Alki Bike & Board, just up the street from you. But I also think @gugie would do a better job with appropriate cutting oil, etc.
However, I’ve learned why Elliott Bay would limit the thread extension - the stem expander puts high internal radial stresses on the steerer tube, and a conical-style expander concentrates those stresses in one a short length of the steerer. Imagine if that’s happening in the threaded, hence weakened, section of a steerer. I’m pretty sure that’s what happened to the steerer tube on @RiddleOfSteel’s ‘74 Paramount before his rescue and @gugie’s incredible fix. The steerer tube was broken just above the start of the threading, well below the top of the head tube. BTW, a wedge-style expander has the advantage of spreading the radial stress over a length of the steerer.
So if you do proceed with this fork with extended threads, it sure seems like a very long quill stem, such as the ever-popular Nitto Technomic, would be highly advisable, with a modified minimum insertion that keeps the expander wedge below any threads.
04-18-19, 12:04 AM
#1258
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@merziac, I am amazed that you remembered that I was involved in a steerer tube threading project!
When I asked Elliott Bay Cycles to extend the treads on a replacement fork with a very long steerer tube, they said said they’d only add 1/2” maximum, while I was looking for much more (it was really long steerer, and I was putting it in a 60cm frame). I eventually found a shop that would do it with a die. It wasn’t a difficult process. @ryansu, the shop that did that extension was Alki Bike & Board, just up the street from you. But I also think @gugie would do a better job with appropriate cutting oil, etc.
However, I’ve learned why Elliott Bay would limit the thread extension - the stem expander puts high internal radial stresses on the steerer tube, and a conical-style expander concentrates those stresses in one a short length of the steerer. Imagine if that’s happening in the threaded, hence weakened, section of a steerer. I’m pretty sure that’s what happened to the steerer tube on @RiddleOfSteel’s ‘74 Paramount before his rescue and @gugie’s incredible fix. The steerer tube was broken just above the start of the threading, well below the top of the head tube. BTW, a wedge-style expander has the advantage of spreading the radial stress over a length of the steerer.
So if you do proceed with this fork with extended threads, it sure seems like a very long quill stem, such as the ever-popular Nitto Technomic, would be highly advisable, with a modified minimum insertion that keeps the expander wedge below any threads.
04-18-19, 05:26 AM
#1259
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I was grieved to find that the chain wear on my Nishiki was over 1% as I had been doing more riding than checking. Ugh! So time for a new chain. But, oh, check the FW too. Yup the 3rd and 4th cog were shot too. Unless....... So I got out the MOACW (see the new "Mother of all Chain Whips" thread) and spun the threaded cogs off that Suntour Perfect FW. As expected #3 and 4 are splined so I could flip them over. My cog checker indicated that they'd be just fine that way. Cleaned everything and spun #5&6 back on then put it in storage. To ride another day.
New chain on the Nishiki then a test ride. Back in the rotation.
New chain on the Nishiki then a test ride. Back in the rotation.
04-18-19, 08:12 AM
#1260
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@ryansu, Davidson is not the place to go to, He usually does not do repairs or resto. He will but when he does it's usually for his own productions. R&E or Cyclefab are more go to places for this type of service needed.
04-18-19, 10:01 AM
#1261
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I had the same sense from Davidson that perhaps the piece work is not where they wanted to spend their time which is fair.
Last edited by ryansu; 04-18-19 at 10:05 AM.
04-18-19, 12:11 PM
#1262
aka Tom Reingold
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@ryansu, that might be an opportunity to use a 1" threadless headset and stem.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
04-18-19, 12:36 PM
#1263
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@ryansu, that might be an opportunity to use a 1" threadless headset and stem.
04-18-19, 01:40 PM
#1264
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Arranging delivery of my recent find, a 1993 Bridgestone RB 1 in yellow with Ritchey designed biplane fork. Hoping my short reach brake calipers will work when I build it up with Shimano 600EX parts.
04-18-19, 10:10 PM
#1265
señor miembro
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Finally did something for the Crescent in overhauling these power shifters ...
And they're still working!
And they're still working!
04-19-19, 08:17 AM
#1267
aka Tom Reingold
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Thank you for the exploded view, @SurferRosa. I've never taken those apart. I really like them.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
04-19-19, 02:34 PM
#1268
señor miembro
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04-26-19, 06:08 PM
#1269
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Curtis is getting a new fishing bike.
https://baynature.org/article/a-fishing-expedition/
I stop and talk to him whenever I'm riding down that way and need to pay him for all the fish stories, lol.
04-27-19, 11:34 AM
#1270
Hump, what hump?
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Today I'm looking at my '82 Basso Gap and planning a ride. There's a Trek 400 Elance nearby, awaiting disassembly.
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
04-27-19, 11:41 AM
#1271
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Today will be about test riding. I want to see how the Evans bike I picked up recently feels and then I want to do a shakedown on the NOS mid 90s Vitus Argal that was finished yesterday.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
04-27-19, 02:18 PM
#1272
52psi
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Trying (again) to solve the sometimes-there tik-tik-tik in my SS drivetrain. Pedals have been eliminated as the source. Today I'm pulling the beat-to-hell 600 arabesque crankset and installing an 80s Cyclone I have laying around.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
04-29-19, 10:56 AM
#1273
1/2 as far in 2x the time
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Yeah there's still some winter dust. But adjusted and rideable. Some Cable housings are too long but shifts 7 gears liked a dream. Not sure why not 8, but I'm old and don't use the bottom cog anyway.
Here's my favorite new ride, with a modern version of one of my old team jerseys. Pretty decent color match, wait till you see what's under the jersey. Period correct, I think.
I am at home today with a sick daughter, who just needs reassurance that I'm around, so I'm doing a little spring cleaning, and stand-testing bikes before I ride them around the block. I hope to have N-3 rideable today, maybe even N-2 by tonight. Fun stuff! (Not so much for my daughter, but it's nothing serious). Finally happy with the bike/wheel pairings. I'm a wheel nut
and it's taken a while, I've decided about saddles and bar tape mostly too, at least for now
Last edited by Last ride 76; 04-29-19 at 02:10 PM.
04-29-19, 11:24 AM
#1274
Senior Member
I solved my gearing problem. I love riding my Trek 750 with last generation Super Record, but trying to ride around SW Wisconsin with 42x24 granny gear just doesn't work anymore. It is do-able, but just not a good idea. So I stumbled across a TA Carmina crank. These are the cranks that let you install your own spider and run just about any combination of rings and sizes. Peter White Cycles has lots of TA stuff in stock so I got a 110 spider and a couple of TA Zephyr rings, and now I have gear inches (48/34 rings) compatible with my terrain and age. I used the existing Campy spindle and get almost the same chain line - the right crank leaves room for a third ring so it kicks the chain line out a few mm. It shifts the front really well, in part because the modern TA rings have ramps. They look pretty good on a CV also.
04-29-19, 04:36 PM
#1275
1/2 as far in 2x the time
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I solved my gearing problem. I love riding my Trek 750 with last generation Super Record, but trying to ride around SW Wisconsin with 42x24 granny gear just doesn't work anymore. It is do-able, but just not a good idea. So I stumbled across a TA Carmina crank. These are the cranks that let you install your own spider and run just about any combination of rings and sizes. Peter White Cycles has lots of TA stuff in stock so I got a 110 spider and a couple of TA Zephyr rings, and now I have gear inches (48/34 rings) compatible with my terrain and age. I used the existing Campy spindle and get almost the same chain line - the right crank leaves room for a third ring so it kicks the chain line out a few mm. It shifts the front really well, in part because the modern TA rings have ramps. They look pretty good on a CV also.