ISO and for trade thread part 5
04-10-18, 11:20 AM
#176
aka: Dr. Cannondale
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Try Wayne Bingham at Velo Classique in VA. Last time I needed a Cinelli part he had it in stock, seems to me he mentioned that he had a few of those in the back.
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04-10-18, 05:13 PM
#177
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Good timing to put up my latest ISO.
I could sure use one of those rear centerpull brake adjusters - as discussed on the previous page. I also could use some English threaded Bottom Bracket cups, and a clamp-on downtube double cable stop. All are needed to be able to build up the International I recently picked up for my wife the way I would like (yes, I'm substituting bar-end shifters for downtube shifters).
I have hit and miss when it comes to parts to trade. I'm almost always able to work something out though so give me a holler.
Thanks,
Z
I could sure use one of those rear centerpull brake adjusters - as discussed on the previous page. I also could use some English threaded Bottom Bracket cups, and a clamp-on downtube double cable stop. All are needed to be able to build up the International I recently picked up for my wife the way I would like (yes, I'm substituting bar-end shifters for downtube shifters).
I have hit and miss when it comes to parts to trade. I'm almost always able to work something out though so give me a holler.
Thanks,
Z
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Last edited by USAZorro; 04-11-18 at 08:39 AM.
04-10-18, 05:47 PM
#178
Keener splendor
Good timing to put up my latest ISO.
I could sure use one of those rear centerpull brake adjusters - as discussed on the previous page. I also could use some English threaded Bottom Bracket cups, and a clamp-on downtube double cable stop. All are needed to be able to build up the International I recently picked up for my wife the way I would like (yes, I'm substituting bar-end shifters for downtube shifters).
I could sure use one of those rear centerpull brake adjusters - as discussed on the previous page. I also could use some English threaded Bottom Bracket cups, and a clamp-on downtube double cable stop. All are needed to be able to build up the International I recently picked up for my wife the way I would like (yes, I'm substituting bar-end shifters for downtube shifters).
Do you mean the Raleigh hanger stop doodad?
04-10-18, 07:01 PM
#179
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I'll send you a pm to coordinate.
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04-13-18, 10:25 AM
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Cottered spindle needed
I know this is a long shot, but here goes...
I am in need of a longer cottered BB spindle only for my 1973 Raleigh Super Course with a Stronglite Steel cottered crank. I am having issues with the non drive side crank arm being too close to the chainstay. It has only about 2mm clearance or less. I am seeking a longer spindle that is longer than 38mm on the non drive side.
The original spindle is a Phillips #3900437.
Update: I think I found a spindle that will work at a bike co-op, plus I scored an alloy crank that I will probably use instead.
Thanks everyone for looking through your parts stash.
I am in need of a longer cottered BB spindle only for my 1973 Raleigh Super Course with a Stronglite Steel cottered crank. I am having issues with the non drive side crank arm being too close to the chainstay. It has only about 2mm clearance or less. I am seeking a longer spindle that is longer than 38mm on the non drive side.
The original spindle is a Phillips #3900437.
Update: I think I found a spindle that will work at a bike co-op, plus I scored an alloy crank that I will probably use instead.
Thanks everyone for looking through your parts stash.
Last edited by lacro; 04-16-18 at 06:13 AM. Reason: no longer need part
04-13-18, 11:09 AM
#181
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I know this is a long shot, but here goes...
I am in need of a longer cottered BB spindle only for my 1973 Raleigh Super Course with a Stronglite Steel cottered crank. I am having issues with the non drive side crank arm being too close to the chainstay. It has only about 2mm clearance or less. I am seeking a longer spindle that is longer than 38mm on the non drive side.
The original spindle is a Phillips #3900437.
I am in need of a longer cottered BB spindle only for my 1973 Raleigh Super Course with a Stronglite Steel cottered crank. I am having issues with the non drive side crank arm being too close to the chainstay. It has only about 2mm clearance or less. I am seeking a longer spindle that is longer than 38mm on the non drive side.
The original spindle is a Phillips #3900437.
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04-13-18, 11:35 AM
#182
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@lacro, if you send me an email, I will put a cottered spindle search on my to-do list for you. My address is below.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
04-13-18, 12:12 PM
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I have a stash of cottered spindles and will look through it. Can you clarify: you are measuring 38 and 48 mm from the ends of the spindle to the abrupt edge immediately inboard of the bearing race? I mean, the bulge at the bearing races has two sharp edges, and your measurements refer to the outer edge in each case (correct?). I ask because the usual distance between the two outer edges, if I recall correctly, is usually 55 mm.
04-13-18, 12:19 PM
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For the center section measurement to be 55mm, I have to measure from the centers of the bearing races. I was originally using the center of the 2 flat areas of the major od's Using the center of bearing race location for the 3 lengths, it's 45/55/35 which totals 135 mm OAL. I hope this make sense.
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04-13-18, 03:47 PM
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If you are not able to locate the correct adjuster, there is a fix. I just received a donated one from a member here, who thought it was the correct one, but it was too big, being M6x1.00 thread, and too big for the 4mm smooth bore hole it belongs in. So as others have mentioned, I drilled and tapped the hole to M6X1.0. Problem solved!
04-16-18, 06:24 PM
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ISO: Rolf Vector Pro rear wheel for parts. I can probably get by with a front. Silver preferred (for the spokes), but at this point, I'd be fine with black. Mine has the DT Swiss HuGI hub, but doubt if it matters much.
Have: Lots of stuff. Try me.
Have: Lots of stuff. Try me.
04-17-18, 09:59 AM
#188
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
04-17-18, 06:07 PM
#189
Senior Member
In search of:
Shimano Ultegra 6500 FD can be braze on but really prefer clamp.
Suntour Superbe Pro NDS crank arm. Got the drive side, looking to see if I can find its mate.
In return... Maybe something you need!
Thanks!
EXIT: happy to report the Ultegra has been found and a possible lead on the crank arm.
Shimano Ultegra 6500 FD can be braze on but really prefer clamp.
Suntour Superbe Pro NDS crank arm. Got the drive side, looking to see if I can find its mate.
In return... Maybe something you need!
Thanks!
EXIT: happy to report the Ultegra has been found and a possible lead on the crank arm.
Last edited by 3speedslow; 04-20-18 at 07:21 PM.
04-17-18, 09:02 PM
#190
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ISO Campagnolo Bottom Bracket and Headset
Looking for the following in nice condition:
1. NR BB with Italian threads, 70 SS, 113 mm axle, 3/16" bearings.
2. NR HS English threads
Have lots of Zeus Criterium era parts and Campagnolo stuff of various vintages to trade. Few other odd ball things like Universal 61 Centre pull callipers and levers.
Thanks.
Brad
1. NR BB with Italian threads, 70 SS, 113 mm axle, 3/16" bearings.
2. NR HS English threads
Have lots of Zeus Criterium era parts and Campagnolo stuff of various vintages to trade. Few other odd ball things like Universal 61 Centre pull callipers and levers.
Thanks.
Brad
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Last edited by Stevensb; 04-17-18 at 09:03 PM. Reason: add threading for HS
04-18-18, 06:03 AM
#191
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But I might have one for you (Nuovo Record, that is). What sort of Zeus stuff do you have?
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 04-18-18 at 06:08 AM.
04-18-18, 06:27 AM
#192
Keener splendor
04-19-18, 07:13 AM
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ISO:
Rolf Vector Pro rear wheel/hub parts:
1-The serrated/knurled lock washer that press-fits on the end of the axle.
2-At least one, but more if you have them, bladed spokes, 282mm, I think.
Shimano RS-11 front wheel/hub parts:
The caps that cover the bearings.
I have a set missing the caps and don't want to mount them without 'em.
Have:
Lots of stuff. Try me.
Rolf Vector Pro rear wheel/hub parts:
1-The serrated/knurled lock washer that press-fits on the end of the axle.
2-At least one, but more if you have them, bladed spokes, 282mm, I think.
Shimano RS-11 front wheel/hub parts:
The caps that cover the bearings.
I have a set missing the caps and don't want to mount them without 'em.
Have:
Lots of stuff. Try me.
04-19-18, 07:24 AM
#194
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I have a bunch o' spokes, some oddball, from a closed shop. But I don't recall any labeled as Rolf in the bunch.
04-19-18, 06:39 PM
#196
Junior Member
I'm looking for a quill stem for a 1 and 1/8" steerer tube, 25.4 clamp diameter. Ideally with a length of less than 80mm for the reach and about 180mm for the quill length itself. I have something similar but with a 22.2 clamp diameter but I would need to double check the sizing if anyone is interested in that.
04-19-18, 07:53 PM
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Rolf Vector Pros.....
J-bend will work. The Sapim CX Rays are about 1/2 as wide. I forgot that the NDS are 282. The DS are 285. I figure They are DT Swiss Aeros, maybe not the Aerolite. The Pro in this configuration did not use a nipple, but a nut, and the threads inside the nut only run half the length of the nut. This means a short spoke won't be grabbed by the nut. Crazy.
PITA.
I broke another one today, we won't go there.
Rolf is a 4-letter word today.
PITA.
I broke another one today, we won't go there.
Rolf is a 4-letter word today.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 04-20-18 at 05:17 AM. Reason: Update
04-20-18, 12:16 AM
#198
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ISO, replacement hoods for Tektro r200 brake levers, brown ones preferred.
Have some odds and ends kicking around, if you need something specific, please ask me. I can also have a rummage at my bike co-op.
- Cannondale branded Tektro Oryx cantilever brake set
- Tektro mini-V brake set
Have some odds and ends kicking around, if you need something specific, please ask me. I can also have a rummage at my bike co-op.
- Cannondale branded Tektro Oryx cantilever brake set
- Tektro mini-V brake set
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04-20-18, 12:53 PM
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I have a Weinmann center bolt that’s 4cm long, measured from the base of the head. Free to you; don’t have any needs ATM. And I’m happy to include a couple of the washers shaped to fit against a round brake bridge.