djb

Well there you go, all set.
Have you ever done touring? I can't recall if you mentioned.
The troll is an interesting bike, and you'll see that with tire size changes, you'll be able to ride on all kinds of surfaces.
if on trails and what not, this crankset is particularly useful.
what year is it? Is it stock?
they are not light bikes, but as the marketing has always said, it's a bike that can be set up and changed for all kinds of riding. Mine has been in mtb mode with flat bars, tried trekking/ butterfly bars, and then finally dropbars.
even have some Jones h bars if ever do that sort of trip off road.

SpacyJa

I haven't done any touring yet, so looking forward to it. It's not a stock Troll, just a frameset, 2016 I guess, in Maroon. I'm going to build it with drop bars. So far I've installed a bottom bracket and headset, crankset is the next step.

djb

Re the bb and crank install. It was the first time for me with hollow tech, so be sure to read proper installation info and get torque and preset tightness right, crucial to proper bearing life. Get it checked out by a store after, that's way I did when getting wheels checked out. Same with head bearing settings.

what are you thinking shifters? You know you can't use road brifters?

SpacyJa

Yes, I think I mentioned this earlier in the thread. I'm going to use bar end shifters from Microshift

OverTheTop98 

I have one three ring bike and the left hand up shifting requires way too much force and throw for my arthritic hands. I currently use a 11-40 cassette with a medium length rear derailleur and a Wolf Tooth RoadLink™ derailleur hanger extension on two bikes that originally had standard road compact gear setups. This gives me plenty of climbing power and keeps the top end. That should be adequate for all but the heaviest fully loaded touring.

djb

Oops, of course you did. Have fun building.

SpacyJa

Thanks, I do! Pressing the headset without pro tools was a bit pain in the ass, but it pays off eventually

str

with a 30/46 crankset and a 11-36 cassette you can go everywhere.

Tourist in MSN

I do not have arthritis, so perhaps my suggestion is a bad one. But if your bike has a brazed on fitting that can be used for a friction downtube lever, that might allow you to shift with less or no pain? On my rando bike I have a brifter for the rear but a friction downtube shifter for the front where I have a triple. When I built up that bike the friction downtube shifter was intended to be temporary but now four years later, it is looking more and more permanent. Some communities have a bike charity and they often have buckets of old old used parts for sale for not very much.

djb

unless like me, you are old and carry too much crap, with a 44/32/22 and a 11-34 then I can go anywhere ;-)

Miele Man

A lot will depend on what roads you are touring on. Hills and/or prolonged headwinds can really eat up your gears. My dropbar MTB with 26" x 2.125" knobby tires has a 24 teeth inner chainring and a 34 teeth rear cog for touring on dirt/gravel logging/mining roads and often when I hit an uphill stretch with a loose surface I wish for a slightly lower gear like a 36 teeth or 38 teeth rear cog. My touring setup is 7 cogs in the rear at the moment. I might go to an 8-speed cassette if my old school Deore derailleur will handle it.

A lot also depends on the loads you carry, how fit you are and also how tired you are during the ride. When I tour those logging/mining roads I'm carrying about 40 pounds all up of weight including food and water and possible repair tools since I'm totally self-supported and many miles from civilization.

Cheers

52telecaster

I think triples are great but ultimately its about having the right gear range. I use a compact triple with just 2 rings. Sort of a super compact double. 20 and 40 with a 12-34 cassette. Very rarely do i use the 20 but when i need it its great.