RiddleOfSteel

Thank you! We're in for a bunch of continuous rain up here, so all I can do is look at it and not ride it. Being under the weather has me not riding (or at work) either. I'll be wrenching on a few other bikes here in the mean time.

noglider 

Yesterday, I changed the saddle for my wife on our tandem bike. That didn't work out well, so I reverted the saddle choice for her.

I changed my seatpost on the same bike. I discovered the seat angle is too slack, and my saddle was too far back. I installed a straight seatpost and installed a clamp "backwards" so I could get the saddle farther forward. Much improved.

merziac

You're welcome, you've got a knack for this without a doubt, this one is especially smokin for me, not something I would have thought if we had just been talking about it.

Sounds like its time for chicken soup, zinc, vitamin C and an indoor test track/velodrome, hang in there.

RiddleOfSteel

Thank you for the well-wishing. Rocking the Zicam, staying warm, and trying not to exert myself and induce any coughing, which is likely on the menu at some point. Though, if the track record of this illness is anything to go by, it may not be long in duration or extremity. That would be nice.

*****

So far today, I've just sanded the right front canti post on my '90 Cannnondale ST so that the Tektro CR720 caliper/arm rotates smoothly when the retaining/mount bolt is fully tightened. This was after spending a good bit of time reducing the radius on the left front post as it was a good 0.1mm over the size of the other posts and was nigh impossible to get a canti caliper/arm on there, let alone rotate smoothly. With this taken care of, I can now remount a saddle and seat post, as well as a bar, stem, brake levers and cabling. The purpose is to test brake strength and squeal prone-ness. If all that is good, then the bike is cleared for a build up, which will necessitate drilling a larger hole into the frame at the shifter boss location--this frame has the original ones missing and I have replacements. This ST was originally slated for a full rain bike + touring/pannier ready duty, but due to various canti and V-brake setups not working (or squealing in an instant), the build was shelved for a quicker and proven rain bike build. If @Lascauxcaveman can have a red '91 ST with the same brakes, big tires (35mm), fenders, and all the touring-related mounts and bosses; well dang it, I can have a pretty blue one!

ollo_ollo

Decided I got a bit carried away upgrading my 66 Super Sport after the 2016 Clunker challenge. So, I Pulled Its derailleurs and the Campy Veloce triple off to use on other bikes.

I found a well used Shimano triple for cheap at our co-op. Also got a near new, long cage, 1st gen, Cyclone rear derailleur. Someone had completely eliminated its "B" screw mount & screw, so it was cheap like the crank.

While searching my cupboard for silver paint to dress up the crank, I saw a can of hammered copper leftover from a vintage saw restoration. Prominently labeled "Hides scratches and surface flaws". It was a good match to the coppertone paint of the SS. Just need a front DR and retape of the bars to be back in service. Don

merziac

I have very good luck with the zinc and C if I use the lozenges of both and bathe the throat by alternating especially with cough /sore throat version of the crud.

Chicken soup always deployed whether it helps or not, usually does.

Lascauxcaveman 

I know you got close enough to see for yourself, but I don't mind reminding you that the fit of those brakes on that C-dale of mine should probably be best described as 'adequate' and only by using the narrow (20mm) rims I have on there. So, while the build lives up to my standards, I'm not sure it if meets yours



Pics make it look like a good match indeed. Be interesting to see how it wears over time. I guess it'd be easy enough just to spray a fresh coat on every couple years, if needed.

DQRider 

That hammered copper is so cool! I'm going to have to find a way to factor that into one of my upcoming builds. Can you tell me what brand you used?

ollo_ollo

It was Rustoleum, and several years on the shelf since I had last used it on the 1952 Comet Radial arm saw. Well aged, but seemed normal to use. You can put it on fairly heavy. Thicker the better to hide flaws. Don

DQRider 

Found it! I hope you don't mind, but I think I'm going to copy your crank treatment on my "art bike / patina preservation project" 1949 Raleigh Clubman.

This has hammered aluminum fenders that are powder-coated copper, and I'm going to paint a black border around the outside of those.

Then I'll paint the crankarms hammered copper, with a black chainring for a visual echo effect.

This will look either stunning or stupid; hopefully the former. The best part is that I can reverse it if it's not what I wanted.

ollo_ollo

I think "Stunning" will be the results, so have at it. Mine turned out way better than expected. It just naturally follows from Shimano's combination of shiny metal chainrings with painted arms. Don

RiddleOfSteel

I didn't actually look at it closely and I wish I had, but that was a year and a half ago. I've saved your picture of it (from the "Flagship" thread) to my desk top and have used it has hope and reference for my '90 ST's build. You're running 35mm tires, correct? Or are they 32mm? I just got done putting the actual 700C wheels onto it and the rims are 23.5mm wide. Surprisingly, the brake pads line up well and I still have some vertical slot movement available, as well as some angle/pitch. The front has less adjustment available, but if it fits it fits and that's what counts. I want to use 35mm tires but there are a few challenges to overcome:

1) The steerer under the fork crown area has an oddly tight radius which interferes with the ability of a fender to be snugged up tightly against the underside of the fork crown. It appears you don't have this issue as your fork is a traditional and fully sloping design unlike my why-did-they-do-this unicrown fork. I can file away these fang-like extensions without impacting the structural integrity of the fork, but will try to fit a 35mm tire and fender initially. My 28mm Continental tires in the pictures are actually 29-30mm (vertically) and my 35mm Paselas on 20mm rims measure 32-33mm (vertically), so the situation is not as challenging as it could be.

2) The chain stay reinforcement bridge is surprisingly close to the tire--close enough that I will likely mount the rear fender on the front side of the bridge instead of the back side. If I mount it as per tradition, it's going to be a very tight squeeze. Thankfully I don't have horizontal dropouts to contend with.

Lascauxcaveman 

First off: suffice to say our forks are not comparable. (I'd forgotten yours was a unicrown model - you sure your bike is a 1990?) I'm guessing your canti posts are a wee bit further apart than mine, but you also appear to have slightly lower profile brake pads, which makes a difference. My tires are indeed 35mm Paselas which I think measure 34 or 35mm the way they are currently mounted. Supposedly a little 'too wide' for those skinny rims, but they are a solid, tight fit on the rim and I run them pretty hard (70-75psi) and they handle just fine, even cornering fairly hard during very fast descents. That bike is freight train, no doubt about it; nothing really compares! As to your fork construction with the steer tube that extends way past the bottom of the unicrown, yeah, that should be easy to grind off and make room for fenders. But if those are 28mm tires in your pics, then I don't see how you're going to do it with 35mm tires.

Another place where our bikes don't spec out the same. On mine the fender fits just fine with a 35mm tire. It was an easy mount, with the thin plastic rear fender having a little spring clip on the forward facing surface, so it just snaps onto the little reinforcement crossmember. About 1/4" of clearance at that point, which is snug but not unreasonable, IMO:

RiddleOfSteel

The color, graphics, and serial number all nail it down as a 1990. 1991 saw extra graphics added, and 1989 had a different top tube font (thicker letters). In 1990, Cannondale offered a SH600 and SH400, 700C hybrids that came in the same sizes as the STs (minus a 27"/68cm frame offering). The geometry was very very close to the STs, and they had unicrown forks. I wonder if this was a case of "we ran out of normal forks, chuck a unicrown on there!" The paint is exactly the same, and quite nice. The unicrown fork works with the big tube aesthetic, so while I may be sad about a non-normal fork, it at least isn't incongruent visually. I have my 35mm Paselas mounted on my butched-up '74 Paramount and those are too-skinny rims. Like yours, they mount well and feel stable in corners. Our canti posts may indeed be differently spaced, though that didn't stop one of the posts from seeming like it was mounted a few mm too high, dashing my hopes of employing XTR V-brakes!

Your gap there for the rear tire and chain stay bridge looks very close to mine, or what mine would look like clearance-wise with 35mm tires. Snug, but a gap is a gap! The front fork will be...close...with 35mm tires, but I think I can squeak it in. I'll have 32mm tires on there at least. Can't wait to ride the freight train. I'll probably kick this out to a build thread as I've had to put new shifter bosses and other things on this bike. Need also to hunt for another pair of 35s.

dweenk

Not bike related and not exactly wrenching. For the past two mornings I have been sawing up copper gutters and downspouts that were removed from my neighbor's house so that he could fit them into his CRV and take them to a recycler. I broke my heart to do it, but the gutters were old and beaten up; and after all, it is his house.

He was going to cut them up with a hack saw and tin snips, so I stepped in with a reciprocating saw. I was able to salvage all of the copper gutter spikes and ferrules for my own gutters however, and he's going to buy me lunch tomorrow.

52telecaster

On a ride today my rear wheel needed tightening when it pulled to the left as a result of my humoungus power. Or perhaps i had under tightened the wheel nut. I walked to a walgreens and bought a cresent wrench. The ride was breezy.

eom 

Winter/fender build, mostly items from the parts bin.




Came with a Wheelsmith built rear wheel,nice STX hub laced to a Cowpie rim. Big hop but paid for.

Was mostly primer gray when I started the acetone rubdown.




FD was undersize, so no paint left in that area. Reflective tape hides a lot.



Loaded up some cone wrenches and bearings this morning and rode over to my brother in-law's house for a 6:30 am service call.
A Bucket Boss Jr. fits just right in a Wald 137 basket.

capnjonny 

I finally finished the refurb on this Miyata 1200. I was waiting on the leather look bar tape I ordered from E bay that took about 2 months to come from Thailand by canoe.
This baby is top drawer all the way from the Superbe brakes and derailleurs to the AT crank and Aero seat post, Cinelli bars and Mavic rims. the saddle even has a built in blinkie .

Now it goes back to the silicon Valley Bicycle exchange where I hope it fetches a price commensurate with it's value.

rjhammett

I finally finished up a complete overhaul of this mid '80s Basso I picked up this summer. It is too small for me so I will pass it along next Spring.
BTW, the three file cabinets it is leaning up against are filled with bike parts.

velojym

Just finished building up my Cannondale M500 frame a few days ago, but when I went to mount water bottles, I found some pretty severe galvanic corrosion in the downtube. Drat.

Good thing I got the frame on the cheap. As I'm already prepping my other bikes for use this coming year, I'm gonna strip the parts and see if my daughter wants to build up the yellow Giant for herself. That's the bike that I found at a thrift store for $20, with LX parts... which went to build my single speed Bridgestone "Ramp Rat".

I think it'd be a great Dad/Daughter project. Of course, at her age, just about everything is lame... but I can give it a shot anyway.

tyler_fred

52telecaster

gonna need 3 bottle holders.

Freqman1

Just tore down my '41 Schwinn Autocycle and will carry the paint parts home for Christmas. My dad says he's bored and needs something to paint. While he's doing that one I'll start on the '38 Motorbike. V/r Shawn

RiddleOfSteel

I've been wrenching on a bike for a friend of my family's (they work with her). She had unfortunately forgot that she had her very nice 58cm carbon Trek 5200 (9-speed Ultegra so circa 2000 or so) on top of her car and the high-fiving with the garage/house did not go well. So we found a slightly smaller (she had complained of being a little stretched out) Planet-X RT-80 carbon road frameset (SUPER light!) and she drove up from PDX to have me swap parts as she would be taking it on a Christmas and extended vacation to ride. She had been wanting to parts swap for a while, ever since the accident months ago, but had never got around to seeing how it could be done. My mom suggested me, and here we are. I couldn't get the frame done in time, and the woman I was doing this for needed to get back to PDX before she fell asleep (had been tired from the day before), so the bike is with me and I plan on finishing it up by tomorrow. The accident threw us a few curve balls but everything is transferring over well. A new shorter stem, compact drop bars, and 9-speed shifters (her 9-speed Ultegra STIs were missing shifts) will go a very long way in having her fit the bike much better and more comfortably. She's excited about it (great!) and I'm excited to help someone get back on their bike and have their biking experience be (hopefully) better than before!

I gotta finish up my 1990 Cannondale ST400 though. Thankfully we have a long (COLD!) dry spell coming up so I can just ride pretty bikes, albeit with gloves. The Cannondale is shaping up quite nicely.

2cam16

Mocked-up some parts on my revised dropbar project.

IMG_6254 by 2cam16, on Flickr