Vrockz

Hi Jagamov,

Finally got my Sirrus 5.0.

I see that you replaced your stem, I am trying to do the same on my bike. How did you remove the stem cap in order to replace your stem?

Jagamov

Congrats!!

It is screwed on so just use your finger and unscrew it as you would normally and it will slowly come up. It has an o-ring to seal it so you may have to use a fingernail to lift it out once the threads clear. Just take it slow and easy.

jimmyodonnell

since the crank recall / repair on one of my Sirrus Xs the bottom bracket + crankset now creak louder than a marching band

DougG

My LBS is promoting the Sirrus X as their replacement for the discontinued Crosstrail. I have a '13 Crosstrail that I've really liked but it's time to replace it. The closest match might be a Trek DualSport 4, but I'm willing to consider the Sirrus X since I've had good luck with Specialized products. The big drawback I see for me is that I usually always go with the highest end model, but those are all carbon and I'd have to give up the rear rack that I've used on my casual riding bikes just about forever. So that's a big hurdle. What do you do on a day-long ride when you have to carry lunch, raingear, etc.? The other thing is that Specialized's tech specs are confusing if not in error and I'd like to ask a couple questions.

- Does the Sirrus X 5.0 really have a 32t chainring? If so, the 32-42 low gear would allow some huge climbs, but 32-11 at the high end would spin out pretty quickly when getting up to speed.

- What chainring does the Sirrus X 4.0 have? Again, the web site shows a 1x, but the specs (wrongly) say it's a 42/32/22 which is a MTB triple! What gives?

By contrast, the DualSport 4 has a 1x drivetrain with a 42t ring and 11-51 cassette, which is pretty good for climbing and still has some top speed for the pavement. The other aspects of the Sirrus X seem OK, although I'd have to try that Futureshock to see how I like it. I'll have to go through the posts in this thread to see what else people are saying.

GravelGurty

I noticed that awhile ago on the chainring. It should be a 42T still, and that is what is pictured.
I've nothing but good things to say about the X Comp (5.0) and futureshock.
I can't offer any assistance on the rack.

markjenn

I had no issue mounting a rack on my my Carbon Comp X which I believe is last year's equivalent to the 5.0. There are mounting bosses on the inside of the rear seat stays and on the bridge between the stays. The rack was an old aluminum Blackburn I had lying around, nothing unusual, although I did have to custom bend a bracket to get the right angle from the bridge to the front rack mounting holes. But most racks require some bodging to get them to fit unless they're made for a particular bike. I can post a picture if it helps.

Huge fan of the bike, probably my favorite after owning 15 or 20 over the years.

- Mark

DougG

Thanks for the info. I'll have to drop by the shop and take a closer look and maybe a test ride (if it's still there). But on the rack question in general I might be rethinking things. My mix of bikes and what I do with them has changed over the years and there's no sense buying and equipping a bike to do something that's in the past, if you get what I mean. Like, at 74yo, what type of long-distance trips are really in my future?

markjenn

I don't know..... a rack is a VERY handy thing to have on almost any bike unless it's a strictly go-like-heck, group-ride, paceline special.

Here's a few photos (excuse the dirt - I ride my Sirrus a lot) to give you an idea of how it mounts and looks. (The location of the seat stay bosses and the height of the uprights on my rack make it sit a little higher than optimal, but for a jacket/lock/toolkit/lunch utility rack that sees light loads, the higher CG doesn't affect the bike enough to matter much.) I checked and its an old Rhodes Gear rack, but I think this design is fairly common. You don't need any special disc brake type of rack and the loads look like they transfer well to the carbon frame - it's VERY secure. And I think it uses the Sirrus' dedicated rack mounts so you still have the fender mounts available, although every time I've tried to do a rack AND fenders, it gets really messy getting things to play together.

- Mark

DougG

Good photos, Mark. My current rack has a solid platform and acts as a decent fender, at least keeping me from getting a muddy stripe up my back like the guys riding with me! Looking at the Sirrus from other aspects, however, I don't think that it would do for my purposes, mainly because I like to have lower gearing for the hilly dirt roads that we have around here.

markjenn

A lot of riders go with a 38t in the front which gets you 38x42 which is pretty low and more/less matches common 2x setups. Of course, you pay the price in spinning out above 25mph or so, but for a hybrid like the Sirrus, how often are you interested in pedaling a bike above this speed?

1X is not without some gear range and gear step compromises (which get less restrictive with each generation of wider-range rear cassettes), but I'll never buy another new bike - road, gravel, or mountain - with a FD. The simplicity of single-control shifting and not having to deal with the hassles of a FD overwhelm the minor drawbacks to me.

- Mark

Ferrouscious 

The X 4.0 comes with a 42T chainring.

900ss

Has anyone replaced their crank arms on a Sirrux X5 with carbon fibre crank arms or crank set? I am loving my Sirrus, and took the advice of board members to not try to swap the bars to drop bars. This forced me to buy the Turbo Creo SL EVO. What an awesome machine!

Mojo31

What will a carbon crank give you?

i like carbon bits, but all my research says buying a new crankset does not provide much bang for the buck.

badger1

Not a question of 'bang for buck'; a carbon crankset is neither here nor there. But a crankset upgrade from stock on any Sirrus X bike will, if nothing else, drop a s__t-ton of weight. The stock ones are boat anchors.

If one likes unnecessarily heavy bikes, not an issue; don't bother with a change. If one likes things light, all else being equal, a very worthwhile change.

900ss

Weight reduction at a reasonable price.

Mojo31

Serious question, and not being critical, but what crank would you substitute and what is the weight difference?

i spent a fair amount of time reading the other day, and I couldn’t get an answer.

And yes, I like lightweight high tech toys. Used to race lightweight high performance sailboats with carbon rigs. The kind where the weight difference between 5/16” and 1/4” lines meant going with 1/4”.

900ss

Hello Mojo31: I don't know yet which cranks I might switch to. I have a Turbo Creo SL Comp EVO that has Praxis crank arms, and I have been in contact with them. The crank arm set for this bike, per Praxis, will save 100 grams. I'm not sure if this is per arm or per the set. I have asked them which carbon crank set would fit the Sirrus X5 and they haven't got back to me yet with an answer.

I'm unfamiliar with these types of bottom bracket assemblies, having ridden and wrenched on old-school (1980s vintage) bikes before these. When I get a determination from them this week I will check back in.

badger1

I haven't weighed the stock crankset on my bike -- Sirrus X Comp carbon, now called the X 5.0 (same crankset) -- and have no intention of doing so. But I would assume, based on experience, that it is on the order of at least 1000 grams, and likely more.

Any decent after-market hollow-forged aluminum crank, with ring, e.g. Praxis, Shimano GRX, SRAM Force, or similar, will be around 700 grams, and stronger. Carbon can get below that, but not enough to bother with, for me at least.

On these bikes, like mine, the crankset is almost always a pig; the other big offender is the wheelset. It's decent; strong; true; etc. but ... it is a pig. Probably on the order of 2000 to 2200 grams. Again, pick up a set of really good/nice aluminum wheels with good hubs, and you're dropping down to 15-1600 grams for the pair.

In my opinion, the frameset is worthy of such upgrades. Once more with feeling: there's nothing wrong with the bike stock -- it's perfectly fine. But it can be built into something much nicer/lighter. If the weight doesn't matter, then no point. Me? I like my bikes light; as light as possible within the budgetary constraints I set myself. I find lighter bikes much nicer -- not 'faster', just nicer -- to ride.

By the way: what class of boat did you race? I'm an old man now, but in my youth -- in the '60s/early '70s of last century -- I raced 5o5s.

Mojo31

On the 4.0, the crank is a no-name hollow 9 speed crank with forged aluminum arms and steel rings. Much the same as other compatible cranksets. So, I’m having difficulty thinking there would be a huge weight savings, but I could be convinced differently. With that,the idea of weight savings and better shifting was what had me reading all day yesterday. I already changed to tires that weigh half the stockers, and lighter pedals. Looking at carbon bars and seat post as well. I think the 4.0/5.0s come in lighter than the X models due to strength needed for more off-road use.

I’m an old man as well, and currently have a Beneteau 31 with a liquor cabinet (no racing these days). Prior boat was a Rocket 22 - about 1500 pounds with fin/bulb keel, asymmetrical and oversized symmetrical spinnakers. This was my boat - #10 out of 15 I believe. We hit 19+ knots the day of this picture.




I started out at 18 with a Hobie 16. In my 20s, I raced a Laser around Texas Sailed Snipes locally in the mid-80s, and crewed on the boat that won the state champs one year. Raced E-scows and Lightning’s when I lived in the mid-west. Raced a VX One with a friend a few times. There have been several PHRF boats I’ve raced from time to time.

DorkDisk

Carbon cranks are great for "making weight". I'm really digging my Easton EC90SL cranks with direct mount, standard road chainline, and low Q factor. This review has some 1x weights and comparisons.

On my cyclocross build, I wanted 30/46 gearing. GRX 800 with rings and BB comes in at 722+77=799, whereas the Easton EC90SL with rings and BB weighs 442+182+87=711. The Easton crank also allows me to use a Dura Ace front derailleur at 70g vs a 94g GRX. That's for a high end Al crankset, a 105 level GRX600 equivalent is 819+77=896. A 105 level crankset would be several steps up from what Special Ed is putting on these bikes.

I'd recommend sinking money into wheels first, decent wheels will shed more weight than the cranks. Rotational weight, and all that....

900ss

Can you recommend some carbon wheel sets for the Sirrus X5 and the Turbo Creo SL Comp EVO? Re: the Creo, Specialized apparently doesn't offer the Rovals that come with the higher end models for sale individually.

DorkDisk

Overall, I really like Fulcrum wheels. They are a Campagnolo owned company so great rims and hubs. Hunt makes nice stuff but the hubs are generic. If you're after weight, make sure the weights are actually low, my EA90 wheels (fantastic hubs) are lighter than the same brand's EC90 wheels. Carbon does not automatically make something lighter, remember that on wheels only the rims are carbon. AFAIK all the above wheels have replaceable end caps for compatibility.

Vrockz

Looks like 2021 models for Sirrus X 4.0 and Sirrus X 5.0 are out. The are not on specialized website but I see them on Landry's Bicycles (checked the site after I saw a post on ****** specialized sub******) "https://www.landrys.com/product-list/bikes-1000/hybrid-comfort-1230/?rb_ct=1250&rb_br=349&rb_iy=2021&sort=pricedesc" available for pre-order. Extra gear on both the models, new colors and $ 50 price bump on X 4.0 and $ 100 price increase on X 5.0.

Mojo31

$2400 premium if you want the X 4.0 in a large blue.

Vrockz

Pricing could be error though. Guess we have to wait for them to show up on specialized website for accurate prices.