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Dura Ace 7700 hub with some play in the freehub body

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Dura Ace 7700 hub with some play in the freehub body

Old 03-12-16, 05:26 PM
  #26  
davidad
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Originally Posted by rmfnla
I've seen replacement Ti freehub bodies on eBay for $50 or so...
I have the Ti. freehub body in a jar. I was never impressed with it. The steel replacement weighs 13 gams more. Not worth the expense.
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Old 03-12-16, 05:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by rmfnla
I've seen replacement Ti freehub bodies on eBay for $50 or so...
I have the Ti freehub body in jar. I prefer the steel model. It weighs 13 grams more than the Ti. and is more durable.
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Old 03-12-16, 05:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by davidad
I have the Ti freehub body in jar. I prefer the steel model. It weighs 13 grams more than the Ti. and is more durable.
I have the Ti freehub body still on my hub and still in daily use with over 55,000 miles. If it ever dies, I think I'd replace it with the steel ones just for cost reasons. Durability of the Ti body certainly hasn't been an issue.
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Old 11-09-22, 06:21 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by davidad
The cups on shimano hubs are not replaceable. I have a 7700 and replaced the freehub body with the one from an Ultgra.
Hej David, quick desperate question - could you tell me which exactly Ultegra Freehub you used to replace the FH-7700?


That would help SO much. I m desperatly looking for a way to replace my broken Fh-7700 freehub.. Thank you!!
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Old 11-12-22, 08:10 AM
  #30  
davidad
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Originally Posted by Jayborg
Hej David, quick desperate question - could you tell me which exactly Ultegra Freehub you used to replace the FH-7700?


That would help SO much. I m desperatly looking for a way to replace my broken Fh-7700 freehub.. Thank you!!
Thisone should work. Shimano 105 FH-5700 Freehub Body (w/ Washer and Seal) (8-10 Speed) - Nashbar
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Old 11-13-22, 02:04 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by davidad
I've swapped freehub bodies on a FH-5700 hub. I would tread carefully on this one.

Shimano made freehub body swapping pretty easy since the attach splines are the same on most of the freehubs. But if you put a shallow flange body on a deep recessed hub it will bolt up but chances are the inside (largest) cog will rub on the hub or spoke heads. You can go the other way around and the only issue will be the freehub body will extend farther out, but most people will just fit it into the dropouts and go on their merry way. If it fits it fits.

I've said this in the other thread, if you buy just the freehub body, that is not spec'd to your hub, there is an equally good chance the old DS cone and seal won't work. Well, if it fits through the dust seal, the wrong cone might work. I have no experience on how well mismatched freehub body cones/races hold up but I suspect there are a lot of them out there. I know a lot of Shimano cones have pretty similar dimensions.

Wheels mfg gives dimensional differences of their aftermarket cones.
https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-cones.html

John
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Old 06-03-24, 11:31 AM
  #32  
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I figured I'd ask in this thread instead of starting a new one since a lot of good info here.

I have a Dura Ace 7700 rear hub, 130mm spacing

I wish to space to 135mm. Is there a particular axle I need? Is this possible?

Thanks
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Old 06-03-24, 01:06 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by laughatdanger
I figured I'd ask in this thread instead of starting a new one since a lot of good info here.

I have a Dura Ace 7700 rear hub, 130mm spacing

I wish to space to 135mm. Is there a particular axle I need? Is this possible?

Thanks
It uses a standard size 10mm rear axle for QR. Original may have been a higher quality but not specified. The FH-6500 had the same part #, and 5500 different, if that means anything.

Normally, the 5mm is added to the left side and redish, (or build with the 'new' dish), which will result in better left/right tension balance.

Shimano usually has an axle 11mm longer that the OLN, so 146mm for 135 spacing. Some people say you can just move the right side over to get equal spacing, about 2.5-3mm on each side and that is sufficient.
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Old 06-03-24, 04:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Gatorfreak
The noise is gone! Went around the neighborhood for a test ride and it was silent! I guess the bearings just needed some grease. Makes me worry the bearings inside the freehub body are in a similar state but for now it seems to be ok. The body still has a little play in it but everything is functioning and quiet.

Thank you all for the tips. I'll make this an annual thing. I bought the wheels used and I guess previous owners never serviced the hub.
The bearings in the free hub body are not under much load, they only turn when you are coasting and the hub isn't under any load
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Old 06-03-24, 04:49 PM
  #35  
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I replaced the steel axle in my 7700 rear hub with an XTR titanium axle, FH-M950 is the part number I believe. It’s 146 mm long and was cut to length. Much lighter than the steel axle. There’s one on eBay right now for $129.
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Old 06-03-24, 10:45 PM
  #36  
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thanks
do I need "without keyway" or with "keyway"?
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Old 06-04-24, 06:35 AM
  #37  
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The XTR axle and the 7700 original did not have keyways. If whatever axle you do use has one, it won't make any difference.
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