Syscrush

Thanks, I'm very excited about 'em. The guys in the bike shop have sold a set before and they were pretty stoked when I came in and ordered them. They said that they look really nice. On my motorcycles, I like to put a black retroreflective rim stripe on black rims, so when I saw the halo/reflective coating for the Deep V's, I knew I wanted that.

First off, I don't take my rear wheel off very often. Secondly, why would I have to readjust everytime I re&re the rear wheel? I would think it would only be necessary when the chain is out of adjustment.

Time will tell.

The spec for the X-RF5(W) is 130 or 119, but FYI my non-(W) hub measures about 114-115.

Syscrush

That is concerning. Those DOs are scarce and pricey, and having custom ones machined would be even more pricey. I'll discuss it with the builder and report back.

Thanks very much.

Syscrush

QUESTION: I just measured my seat tube, and it looks to be 27.2-27.3mm. Is that possible/plausible? I would really like a Miche Supertype seatpost, which is 27.2, but I didn't think it would fit one of these older frames.

Puget Pounder

I agree that it's the wrong kind of frame for this, but I do think the build will be really cool. I like deep Vs... very rugged.

As for fenders, you can do a custom fender install by chopping the fender at the bridge and using struts to connect them. Doesn't look the best, but doesn't look bad. I think raceblades suck... They keep the stripe off your back, but they do nothing for keeping your pants dry.

Puget Pounder

Why wouldn't it fit? If that's what you measured, it should fit. Did you use a pair of calipers?

you

I totally hate those clip-on half fenders. I used them for over two years on commuters and finally made the switch to full fenders and have never been happier (with my fender situation). River city bikes in Portland makes this neat bracket that should facilitate mounting full-fenders on racy frames. https://rivercitybicycles.com/product...ackets-737.htm

noglider 

And there are other methods for mounting full fenders on tight bicycles. I've read about many of them in the Mechanics section of bike forums.

Syscrush

Does the axle go in that slot?

Puget Pounder

No you use P-clamps to attach the fenders. The struts are to bypass the brake bridge. You have to saw your fender in half to use these.

Syscrush

I used a digital caliper. I just really thought that the older Italian frames had a different dimension for the seatpost. It seems like there are unexpected gotchas all over the place when it comes to sizes for this stuff, and I'm wondering if there's some kind of catch - maybe I'm missing something.

Syscrush

For any others having trouble figuring out how those brackets work from just the photo of the brackets themselves:

Grand Bois

I'm puzzled by this. SA makes no turn washers for vertical dropouts.

Grand Bois

I like where you're going with this build, but I certainly wouldn't describe it as a "city bike".

tcs

Yep, Sturmey-Archer part number HMW534, "Lock Washer for Vertical Dropout".

About the XRF5(W): This new-ish (W) hub design uses a gear selector key like the older Sprint series of hubs, rather than the ball-locking selector scheme of more recent Summit series (despite what the erroneous product descriptions say on some web sites). Like the Alfine 11 IGH, the 5(W) is sensitive to cable adjustment and most have found it works more reliably with full-run cable housing and 'gentle' cable routing.

Syscrush

Fair enough. That's my intended usage, although it probably doesn't really fit the classical definition of the genre. Just like in the hot rod world, one person's grocery getter is a beat up old Civic, and another's is a '65 Nova with a blown 454.

KonAaron Snake 

The difference being that the hot rod can pick up groceries without too much inconvenience.

The better analogy is that your grocery getter is a formula one car with no trunk space.

tcs

Quite a number of modern factory bike frames use vertical dropouts with IGHs, either with sliding (adjustable) dropouts or eccentric bottom brackets. I've never heard of anyone having to readjust their sliding dropouts or eccentric bottom bracket everytime they removed and reinstalled the rear wheel.

BTW, "proper chain tension"? It's an IGH, not a fixed gear.

Dan Burkhart 

Yes, they do. Got some right here in my hand.



Not that they're any more available than the Sturmey part, probably less so, but washers from a Sram iMotion 9 will fit as well.



In a pinch, Shimano washers can be made to fit with a bit of filing.

ColonelJLloyd 

Fair enough. I'm no IGH expert.

But, yes, there is a proper chain tension even for an IGH. With those dropouts adjusted and/or a half link, the OP can hopefully acheive proper chain tension.

Grand Bois

Just ther opposite is true. With vertical dropouts, no adjustment of chain tension is needed when removing and installing the wheel.

bradtx

Syscrush, Keep us updated on this build, I like it. I think when time and money allows a set of 1/4" steel or 3/8" aluminum horizontal dropouts can be manufactured with a little more adjustment range (perhaps including more tire and fender clearance?). It would also clean up the rear a bit without the RD hanger (which, IMHO, shouldn't be sawn off). The twist grip shifter might also give a leaner, cleaner visual.

Brad

ColonelJLloyd 

It's not needed if you have proper chain tension to begin with, no. The fact that you cannot adjust the chain tension is the disadvantage of vertical dropouts for use with single cog/single chainring drivetrains. As I said in post #44, hopefully good chain tension can be achieved with a half link and fine tuning of those dropouts.

There are lots of bikes out there running with slack chains and they're probably fine, but I wouldn't be satisfied with it.

Grand Bois

I believe that those sliding dropouts will provide for pleanty of room for adjustment. I found when i built my "magic gear" single speed that it takes very little movement to tighten the chain.

Syscrush

Thanks.

One link is 10mm, and the dropouts provide 8mm of adjustment. Adding or removing 1 link would make a ~5mm difference at the axle, so I am confident that it'll be fine.

noglider 

A link is 12.7mm, not 10mm!