KMC missing link tools free, or not tools free?
#1
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KMC missing link tools free, or not tools free?
I have a KMC missing link. supposedly, it's tools free, and also reusable.
but for the life of me, i can't remove it without a tool.
anyone have any advice on that?
also, it is advertised as reusable. but i've read from other sources that recommend not reusing a missing link or master link.
what have you guys found?
thanks.
but for the life of me, i can't remove it without a tool.
anyone have any advice on that?
also, it is advertised as reusable. but i've read from other sources that recommend not reusing a missing link or master link.
what have you guys found?
thanks.
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The links have a positive snap when tensioned. So they require no tools to install. Removal is a different story. If you have strong fingers, with tough skin at the tips, you might be able to pinch them together to open them, but most people use some kind of pliers to pinch the rollers together or a similar tool made for the job.
The good news is that you won't need a tool for a field repair.
As for reuse, my rule has always been that the link and chain are married for life. So I'll open and reuse a few times, then discard the link when the chain is shot
The good news is that you won't need a tool for a field repair.
As for reuse, my rule has always been that the link and chain are married for life. So I'll open and reuse a few times, then discard the link when the chain is shot
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To remove, you can get specifically designed pliers like these from Park https://www.parktool.com/product/mast...k-pliers-mlp-1 other brands are available. If you work on chains regularly, these are worth having.
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Perhaps a better choice in master links is the Connex link from Wipperman. It is secure and doesn't need tools to install or remove.
I guess my definition of quick-link is that it is quick and doesn't needs tools to make it quick.
I guess my definition of quick-link is that it is quick and doesn't needs tools to make it quick.
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Make a vertical "Z" using 3 half-links, with the quick link in the center. Apply a twisting force to both ends. The link will pop free eventually, and half will be lost forever.
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Well, that would certainly resolve the re-use or not question.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
Constant tinkerer
How many speeds? I used to have trouble but now figured out the technique to remove the KMC and SRAM 8-speed links by hand usually in a matter of seconds. I put the chain in a Z shape and while squeezing the link together I push the ends of the chain towards eachother to free them from the link. I have no idea if that made sense, but it's the best I could do.
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I have a KMC missing link. supposedly, it's tools free, and also reusable.
but for the life of me, i can't remove it without a tool.
anyone have any advice on that?
also, it is advertised as reusable. but i've read from other sources that recommend not reusing a missing link or master link.
what have you guys found?
thanks.
but for the life of me, i can't remove it without a tool.
anyone have any advice on that?
also, it is advertised as reusable. but i've read from other sources that recommend not reusing a missing link or master link.
what have you guys found?
thanks.
They recommend replacing the link when you replace the chain.
#10
Licensed Bike Geek
How many speeds? I used to have trouble but now figured out the technique to remove the KMC and SRAM 8-speed links by hand usually in a matter of seconds. I put the chain in a Z shape and while squeezing the link together I push the ends of the chain towards eachother to free them from the link. I have no idea if that made sense, but it's the best I could do.
As FBinNY says, the link stays with its chain throughout the chains life, no need to discard it until the chain is done, about a full season.
#11
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interesting little tool that.
I've always been able to do them just with my hands without issues, but could see wanting the tool if one had to do them often. The only issue I've had is slightly pinching a bit of skin when I put them back together, but its not a big issue.
I would say thats its could to know how to do it by hand, just for when something happens and you need to out on the road, in the rain sort of thing (the old touring adage, be prepared)
I've always been able to do them just with my hands without issues, but could see wanting the tool if one had to do them often. The only issue I've had is slightly pinching a bit of skin when I put them back together, but its not a big issue.
I would say thats its could to know how to do it by hand, just for when something happens and you need to out on the road, in the rain sort of thing (the old touring adage, be prepared)
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Thanks everyone. i'll try the "Z" method. i did buy a tool for removal, i was just wondering if anyone had had real success with removal without a tool since it is advertised as such. but it sounds like most people still find it to be very difficult without a tool.
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The best tool free removal method I've seen is this. https://www.ctc.org.uk/file/member/201107050_0.pdf
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To remove, set the chain so the link is at the 3 o'clock position on the chainring. Then pull an extra link of chain forward so that one end of the master link is sticking out. Tap the raised end of the link with a rock to pop the link open.
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With 9 speed chain I never had a need to use tool but with 10 speed it was always a pita, so much that recently I decided to buy the tool.
#16
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When I got my first new SRAM 9 speed chain, I practiced a bit with the link before I installed the chain.
It gave me a better idea of how to do it and what to expect.
It still seems more difficult doing it with a grimy chain installed on the bike though.
It gave me a better idea of how to do it and what to expect.
It still seems more difficult doing it with a grimy chain installed on the bike though.
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On a quick link, each pins is peened rigidly to a side plate. Using a tool like the Park pliers puts a uniform force on the center of both pins simultaneously minimizing bending stress on the peened joints. Other less symmetric methods may apply sufficient bending stress to a pin to cause it to loosen or come out of the side plate. I believe the potential for this happening is why SRAM says only to use theirs once. Personally, I reuse their links ~1/2 dozen times over the life of a chain.
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if you make a square upside down 'U' shape
with the quick link in the middle
you can put a the jaws of a pair of regular pliers
to pinch diagonally between two corners of the link
such that the link is opened
i would bet that after a few open close cycles
it will be easier to do without tools
with the quick link in the middle
you can put a the jaws of a pair of regular pliers
to pinch diagonally between two corners of the link
such that the link is opened
i would bet that after a few open close cycles
it will be easier to do without tools
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With regard to the Park tool, I recall reading somewhere that it's only effective with 8 and 9 speed chains. 10 speed chains are supposedly to narrow for the jaws. Can anyone confirm?
#21
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Don't know either way, nor whether Park modified the tool for 10s and 11s chains. But this shouldn't matter if you own a bench grinder or comparable tool, since it's less than a minute to grind the jaws thinner.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I rotate chains frequently, I bought the park tool. I have both KMC and SRAMs in my rotation...they are both very difficult to disassmble with bare hands when filthy.
Mine is a 9 speed...can't speak to the 10 speed chain being too narrow.
Mine is a 9 speed...can't speak to the 10 speed chain being too narrow.
Last edited by Shepp30; 09-26-13 at 09:49 AM.
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Don't know either way, nor whether Park modified the tool for 10s and 11s chains. But this shouldn't matter if you own a bench grinder or comparable tool, since it's less than a minute to grind the jaws thinner.
#24
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The Park Tool tool has worked fine for me on a Shimano 10 speed chain with KMC link.
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I have had the Park Tool chain link pliers for a long time. It works well with my 7, 8 and 10 speed chains. The tool is a necessity (in my view) if you use KMC missing links. It is not that you can't remove links without it, but it makes life much more easier, which after all, is the most important reason to have certain tools.