Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#1226
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: England
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So after using the track lately I don't want to continue using their bikes. Question is...is my bianchi pista good enough for a beginners track bike? up to a racing level.
#1227
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: St Louis
Posts: 1,846
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Your pista will be just fine for entry level racing. You will most definitely change your gearing around to something more race appropriate
.
.
#1228
Senior Member
Talking about gearing, you'll want a 48 or 49 tooth chainring and a flip-flop hub with a 16 tooth cog on one side (for warmup) and a 15 tooth cog (for racing) on the other. You might want new tires that aren't cut up from road riding too. Flats on the track are... not good.
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Last edited by Brian Ratliff; 08-25-14 at 05:11 PM.
#1229
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,502
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 511 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7348 Post(s)
Liked 2,460 Times
in
1,432 Posts
Thanks for the complete response, @MarkWW.
I've been to t-town as a spectator. I also tried the track on my road bike when it was empty. I'm aware of the many differences. Kissena may not be a great track, but it's our track, so I have an affection for it anyway.
I've been to t-town as a spectator. I also tried the track on my road bike when it was empty. I'm aware of the many differences. Kissena may not be a great track, but it's our track, so I have an affection for it anyway.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#1230
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: England
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My first couple years were on a Raleigh Rush Hour (similar to the Bianchi Pista; budget track frame built up originally as a fixed gear street bike). I didn't upgrade until I was a 2. There are better bikes and you'll want to upgrade at some point, but it'll work just fine to get you into the elites. Just start changing parts out as you start getting dissatisfied. Then, when you are ready to upgrade, you can just swap all your upgraded parts to a new frame. Track is great that way - a lot fewer parts on the bikes and not too many compatibility problems. Just get onto 144mm BCD cranks and 1/8" chain as soon as you are able (usually the budget bikes have 130mm BCD cranks and 3/32" chain, both of which make it hard to find good quality compatible chains, chainrings and cogs).
Talking about gearing, you'll want a 48 or 49 tooth chainring and a flip-flop hub with a 16 tooth cog on one side (for warmup) and a 15 tooth cog (for racing) on the other. You might want new tires that aren't cut up from road riding too. Flats on the track are... not good.
Talking about gearing, you'll want a 48 or 49 tooth chainring and a flip-flop hub with a 16 tooth cog on one side (for warmup) and a 15 tooth cog (for racing) on the other. You might want new tires that aren't cut up from road riding too. Flats on the track are... not good.
#1231
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times
in
77 Posts
When you get tires, make sure to get cloth rim tape. This will keep spoke nipples from poking through and piercing the tire. I use cloth rim tape on all clincher rims (road or track bikes).
#1232
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: England
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Will do Carleton, cheers again
stupid question of the day i have a flip flop hub, i can only use a 1 sided, fixed wheel on the track, so can i just remove the freewheel (or get my LBS to) and leave the fixed side as is?
stupid question of the day i have a flip flop hub, i can only use a 1 sided, fixed wheel on the track, so can i just remove the freewheel (or get my LBS to) and leave the fixed side as is?
Last edited by Owen21; 08-27-14 at 02:34 PM. Reason: Spelling mistake
#1234
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times
in
77 Posts
Or, you can just remove the freewheel to remove extra weight and/or to put it on another wheel.
#1235
Senior Member
What annoys me is that I am not allowed to use a fixed gear in road individual time trials by BRAC despite the fact the rule book (rule 3E2) permits it.
#1236
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: England
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Awesome. Just looking at the track specification for my track it says no double sided hub with a freewheel. So I'll just take it off for peace of mind whether that means using a freewheel or just having one on the non-use side who knows.
#1237
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times
in
77 Posts
USA Cycling Rule 1I3(a) does permit single speed freewheels at certain times for certain events (page 37 of the 2014 rule book). However in my opinion it is best to always use a fixed gear on the track.
What annoys me is that I am not allowed to use a fixed gear in road individual time trials by BRAC despite the fact the rule book (rule 3E2) permits it.
What annoys me is that I am not allowed to use a fixed gear in road individual time trials by BRAC despite the fact the rule book (rule 3E2) permits it.
Yeah, you are right.
#1238
Senior Member
Strange rules, but rules are rules and I guess they're there for a valid reason........ unless they come from the UCI.....
#1239
Senior Member
Hey, I never visit this subforum, but a friend just gave me a track bike (she hasn't used it since 2006). Tires still good, just got them re-glued. But I don't know anything about track bikes. I'm sure I can search and read, and most likely will, but if anyone can answer a couple questions it would be nice.
First, the chain. It seems it's necessary to break the chain every time the cog is switched. I'm wondering if the pins I have will work on a track chain - like, are pins one size fits all? My road bike is 10 speed. EDIT: jk, I'm dumb. I can slide the rear wheel forward to put the chain on, then slide it back and tighten.
Second, the bike has no lockring (the shop informed me, I would not have noticed). Is a lockring necessary for the track?
First, the chain. It seems it's necessary to break the chain every time the cog is switched. I'm wondering if the pins I have will work on a track chain - like, are pins one size fits all? My road bike is 10 speed. EDIT: jk, I'm dumb. I can slide the rear wheel forward to put the chain on, then slide it back and tighten.
Second, the bike has no lockring (the shop informed me, I would not have noticed). Is a lockring necessary for the track?
Last edited by aaronmcd; 08-27-14 at 08:42 PM.
#1240
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times
in
77 Posts
Hey, I never visit this subforum, but a friend just gave me a track bike (she hasn't used it since 2006). Tires still good, just got them re-glued. But I don't know anything about track bikes. I'm sure I can search and read, and most likely will, but if anyone can answer a couple questions it would be nice.
First, the chain. It seems it's necessary to break the chain every time the cog is switched. I'm wondering if the pins I have will work on a track chain - like, are pins one size fits all? My road bike is 10 speed. EDIT: jk, I'm dumb. I can slide the rear wheel forward to put the chain on, then slide it back and tighten.
Second, the bike has no lockring (the shop informed me, I would not have noticed). Is a lockring necessary for the track?
First, the chain. It seems it's necessary to break the chain every time the cog is switched. I'm wondering if the pins I have will work on a track chain - like, are pins one size fits all? My road bike is 10 speed. EDIT: jk, I'm dumb. I can slide the rear wheel forward to put the chain on, then slide it back and tighten.
Second, the bike has no lockring (the shop informed me, I would not have noticed). Is a lockring necessary for the track?
#1241
Senior Member
...................................
First, the chain. It seems it's necessary to break the chain every time the cog is switched. I'm wondering if the pins I have will work on a track chain - like, are pins one size fits all? My road bike is 10 speed. EDIT: jk, I'm dumb. I can slide the rear wheel forward to put the chain on, then slide it back and tighten.
...........................
First, the chain. It seems it's necessary to break the chain every time the cog is switched. I'm wondering if the pins I have will work on a track chain - like, are pins one size fits all? My road bike is 10 speed. EDIT: jk, I'm dumb. I can slide the rear wheel forward to put the chain on, then slide it back and tighten.
...........................
#1244
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Ontario
Posts: 740
Bikes: T1, S2, P3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you select the correct chain length it should fit all your chainring/sprocket combinations. Most riders use 1/8" chains and a removable link. A 10 speed chain pin will not fit a 1/8" chain. On my bike, and our rental bikes, to remove a wheel I slide the wheel forward then slip the chain off the chainring.
Makes me wonder though, as anyone seen the new TT bikes like the P3 up close? They run the rear tire INSANELY close, like barely fit a credit card through close, and I assume its for aerodynamics. This doesn't seem very possible on a track bike unless you plan to break your chain every time.
#1245
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
As long as its a true track bike with proper dropouts (long). Ive seen a couple 'street' fixed gears that are very short, likely as they are not changing cogs ever, so you probably lose a bit of flexibility with those.
Makes me wonder though, as anyone seen the new TT bikes like the P3 up close? They run the rear tire INSANELY close, like barely fit a credit card through close, and I assume its for aerodynamics. This doesn't seem very possible on a track bike unless you plan to break your chain every time.
Makes me wonder though, as anyone seen the new TT bikes like the P3 up close? They run the rear tire INSANELY close, like barely fit a credit card through close, and I assume its for aerodynamics. This doesn't seem very possible on a track bike unless you plan to break your chain every time.
#1246
Senior Member
Or deflate the tire - that is what I have had to do sometimes on my E. G. Bates frame from the mid-1980s which has 1-5/8" drop outs but short chain stays. I sometimes wonder if the frame was not built to accommodate a 700 wheel (perhaps 27")
#1247
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 3,215
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you really want it that close you can remove the chain ring to get the wheel on and off. But besides being a lot of work there is some thought that the small space causes drag from the wheel dragging air through a tight gap so it may cost more than it saves on the outer flow.
#1248
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My new Look 464 came with an all carbon fork, carbon steerer as well. Should I opt for something else with an aluminum steerer? I'm only trying to think long term on the amount of force being put down on the bars/stem/steerer while sprinting. I'm not THAT strong, but I'm pretty heavy and can put pressure down when needed.
#1249
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Ontario
Posts: 740
Bikes: T1, S2, P3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Its fine. Just about every decent bike comes with carbon forks now. They are bulky, strong, not even that light, and can take more force than you can give.
#1250
Senior Member
Man... I can't remember the last time I used a lock ring at the track.
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter