Low Profile Studded Tire
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Low Profile Studded Tire
My bicycle and fender combination limits my summer tire size to a 32mm size, and last winter I ran a 45NRTH Xerxes 30mm studded tire, which barely fits, and is somewhat finicky about conditions on the MUP. Is anyone aware of any superior alternative low profile tire that I should consider this winter?
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The only tire I know of in 30c that might be better is the Schwalbe WINTER HS 396. It's a cheaper cousin of the Schwalbe Marathon Winter wth only 2 rows of studs instead of 4, , but comes in 30c:
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_t...d_tires/winter
The other tire I know of is the Nokian A10, but it has a poor reputation for handling any snow (the snow gets packed into the tread because of poor tread design). The Schalbe above would be better.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_t...d_tires/winter
The other tire I know of is the Nokian A10, but it has a poor reputation for handling any snow (the snow gets packed into the tread because of poor tread design). The Schalbe above would be better.
#3
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I Lowered the Profile of my Nokian Mount and Ground W, by putting them on 45mm wide All Weather Sports Snow Cat Rims.
But this is a 26" wheel Rig , The Fairbanks Alaska Company also offers a 29er rim using the same extrusion.
I Propose raising the Mudguards higher...
Low point on My Bike was the Fork Crown, so I cut the Mudguard and bolted on the remaining part on to the front of the Fork crown.
You can also do that on the rear making reach around mounting struts to also have that frame brace the lowest clearance point..
'/,
But this is a 26" wheel Rig , The Fairbanks Alaska Company also offers a 29er rim using the same extrusion.
I Propose raising the Mudguards higher...
Low point on My Bike was the Fork Crown, so I cut the Mudguard and bolted on the remaining part on to the front of the Fork crown.
You can also do that on the rear making reach around mounting struts to also have that frame brace the lowest clearance point..
'/,
#4
Shimano's Shaman
I don't know if you're into DIY, but I was inspired to realize DIY studded tires for my hybrid (which usually mounts schwalbe kojak 700x35) from this link: Pop Rivet Ice Tires for Your Road Bike
#5
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My bicycle and fender combination limits my summer tire size to a 32mm size, and last winter I ran a 45NRTH Xerxes 30mm studded tire, which barely fits, and is somewhat finicky about conditions on the MUP. Is anyone aware of any superior alternative low profile tire that I should consider this winter?
#6
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You lower a tire profile on a Bicycle by putting it on a Much wider rim and spread out the width between the bead wires.
Gain a D profile cross section
Gain a D profile cross section
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Yes, different bike with more fender clearance and larger tires would be an option, but I really like this bike, having ridden it the past two winters. I posted my tire question in this context, thanks.
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Interesting concept, I will look into it. I am running discs on my bike, so there are no impacts to widening the rims.
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#10
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Rider weight 260 lbs, Xerxes tire pressure 60 psi on clear roads, 35 psi on icy/snowy roads, per 45 NRTH instructions.
Yes, different bike with more fender clearance and larger tires would be an option, but I really like this bike, having ridden it the past two winters. I posted my tire question in this context, thanks.
Yes, different bike with more fender clearance and larger tires would be an option, but I really like this bike, having ridden it the past two winters. I posted my tire question in this context, thanks.
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In that case, the option is there to convert to a smaller-diameter rim that allows fatter studded tires.
#12
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Like 27.5 studded tires? Do they make them?
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You mean, loose snow or packed snow? I've never had a problem riding the A10s in snow, but I admit I don't try to ride it in the deep stuff. Mostly packed snow or a few inches of loose snow.
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I mean you can ride a tire with no tread in snow, but you'll get better grip with effective tread.
#15
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I expect the A 10 is fine in places like CPH that plows their Bike paths every morning there is more snow.
A non studded A10 was my touring tire in 97. 10 mos, Tread wear was Negligible
Hard Rubber compound also retains the Studs
My 26" ones still are in service as needed , for almost 20 years [ it's not Icy here every winter ]
'/,
A non studded A10 was my touring tire in 97. 10 mos, Tread wear was Negligible
Hard Rubber compound also retains the Studs
My 26" ones still are in service as needed , for almost 20 years [ it's not Icy here every winter ]
'/,
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I really appreciate the varied thoughtful responses to my inquiry.
I hear similar things about the Nokian A10, probably not suitable for Boston. I had the Schwalbe Winter 35c on my prior bike, wasn't aware that they now have a 30c available, definitely will consider that, thanks!
Smaller wheel with fatter tire is brilliant. The hub is a Shimano Alfine 8, so there would be some intricacies to the rear wheel rebuild. The frame is also low clearance around the rear wheel, so I might squeeze a 40C out of the wheel swap, which would yield a four row stud pattern.
I think that initially trying out the Schwalbe Winter 30c would be an relatively simple swap (This would have 118 studs, compared to the Xerxes 140 studs, hmmm). Rebuilding the wheels with wider 700c rims would be the next level to get a 4 row stud tire, and the biggest commitment would be a wheel rebuild with a smaller diameter rim and larger tires.
Appreciate all of the great advice.
The only tire I know of in 30c that might be better is the Schwalbe WINTER HS 396. It's a cheaper cousin of the Schwalbe Marathon Winter wth only 2 rows of studs instead of 4, , but comes in 30c:
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_t...d_tires/winter The other tire I know of is the Nokian A10, but it has a poor reputation for handling any snow (the snow gets packed into the tread because of poor tread design). The Schalbe above would be better.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_t...d_tires/winter The other tire I know of is the Nokian A10, but it has a poor reputation for handling any snow (the snow gets packed into the tread because of poor tread design). The Schalbe above would be better.
I think that initially trying out the Schwalbe Winter 30c would be an relatively simple swap (This would have 118 studs, compared to the Xerxes 140 studs, hmmm). Rebuilding the wheels with wider 700c rims would be the next level to get a 4 row stud tire, and the biggest commitment would be a wheel rebuild with a smaller diameter rim and larger tires.
Appreciate all of the great advice.
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I really appreciate the varied thoughtful responses to my inquiry.
I hear similar things about the Nokian A10, probably not suitable for Boston. I had the Schwalbe Winter 35c on my prior bike, wasn't aware that they now have a 30c available, definitely will consider that, thanks!
I hear similar things about the Nokian A10, probably not suitable for Boston. I had the Schwalbe Winter 35c on my prior bike, wasn't aware that they now have a 30c available, definitely will consider that, thanks!
Smaller wheel with fatter tire is brilliant. The hub is a Shimano Alfine 8, so there would be some intricacies to the rear wheel rebuild. The frame is also low clearance around the rear wheel, so I might squeeze a 40C out of the wheel swap, which would yield a four row stud pattern.
Hope whatever you do it works well. :-)
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..... If you're going to spend the money on smaller wheels, my opinion is that it would be better spent on a new bike with larger wheels and better clearance. You can buy a basic hybrid for around $400 (US, not sure how much it costs there). Like I said, I say this because I've tried smaller 26" wheels and you definitely lose something compared to 700c wheel, if you swap wheels on your current bike to a smaller wheel it won't ride the same for winter............
I wouldn't try so hard to make this slim profile thing work if I didn't like my current commuting ride so much - it's a BMC Alpenchallenge AC-01 with their custom fender package. I had to order it from a shop in NYC (no LBS distributor at the time) and had no idea how tight the clearances are around the wheels, which is a severe practical limitation, however the Alfine IGH with belt drive is super low-maintenance in the inclement weather and it is really fun for urban commuting in all seasons.
I'm going to order the 30c Schwalbe Winter tires and give them a go when the snow flies, will report in a few months on how they compare with the Xerxes.
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Last edited by Archwhorides; 10-21-16 at 06:26 AM.
#19
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Fellow Boston rider here. The A 10's will not be up to the task. Best to get another bike with some bigger tires. Plus the winter sand and salt will destroy your ride in no time. I use 700 x 35 and 26 x 1.95 studded tires. Sometimes 29 x2.1 and looking forward to commuting on 26 x4.0 tires. Look at some thing like the 45 north gravadals in 700 x 38. A hybrid or used cross bike would work.
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More good points.
I wouldn't try so hard to make this slim profile thing work if I didn't like my current commuting ride so much - it's a BMC Alpenchallenge AC-01 with their custom fender package. I had to order it from a shop in NYC (no LBS distributor at the time) and had no idea how tight the clearances are around the wheels, which is a severe practical limitation, however the Alfine IGH with belt drive is super low-maintenance in the inclement weather and it is really fun for urban commuting in all seasons.
I'm going to order the 30c Schwalbe Winter tires and give them a go when the snow flies, will report in a few months on how they compare with the Xerxes.
I wouldn't try so hard to make this slim profile thing work if I didn't like my current commuting ride so much - it's a BMC Alpenchallenge AC-01 with their custom fender package. I had to order it from a shop in NYC (no LBS distributor at the time) and had no idea how tight the clearances are around the wheels, which is a severe practical limitation, however the Alfine IGH with belt drive is super low-maintenance in the inclement weather and it is really fun for urban commuting in all seasons.
I'm going to order the 30c Schwalbe Winter tires and give them a go when the snow flies, will report in a few months on how they compare with the Xerxes.
It's like:
New Tires
- $100
- Time spent replacing tires
- If they don't work you're out $100 and the time to put the old tires back on
New Wheels
- $200 minimum plus costs below (new IGH, maybe new fenders, maybe different brakes)
- New fenders because they're a different size wheel
- Possible issue with brakes because of different size wheel
- A lot more time involved in changing wheels vs just changing tires - wait didn't you say you have an IGH? So you'd need a whole second IGH, add that to a significant cost increase
- Not a great chance it would work - what gain in a wider tire is somewhat lost by going to a smaller tire - so no guarantee of actually solving your problem
- Now you need to get ride of a wheelset which is a pain (if it doesn't work)
To me, the cost/benefit ratio for trying to new tires makes sense, but cost/benefit ratio for new wheels is just to high.
You know, it's an opinion, based on trying to do similar project before. I'm out $500 trying to fix up a bike that ultimately was never going to work anyways, so what's worth it for the effort I put in has definitely been on my mind.
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At some point I would consider getting a belt drive IGH cycle with greater clearance for larger tires/fenders in the 35-40cm range, but not this year.
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#22
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Already wrote that I'm working with my current BMC ride, which BTW has held up better in the two prior winters better than any bike I have owned. I doubt you can say that your winter bike has been virtually maintenance-free. I can.
At some point I would consider getting a belt drive IGH cycle with greater clearance for larger tires/fenders in the 35-40cm range, but not this year.
At some point I would consider getting a belt drive IGH cycle with greater clearance for larger tires/fenders in the 35-40cm range, but not this year.
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As described earlier in the thread, I'm currently riding belt drive with 8 speed Alfine and fenders matched to the cycle. 9 mile commute both ways from Arlington Hghts. to downtown Beantown, via MUP and various urban streets. Last winter 2015/16 was a piece of cake (didn't miss a day), and 2014/15 was a piece of work (missed 3 days). I rode 45NRTH Xerxes 30C both years with decent but not superb results. Didn't wash the bike either year (there were some rainy days I suppose) and the finish is holding up just fine, with zero drive train maintenance required. (This October I'm overhauling the IGH and purchasing a backup belt after putting on 30 months of riding and about 10,000 miles).
I'm going to try out the Schwalbe Winter 30C this upcoming season to see how this fares and I have no interest in the Nokian A10.
Actually I'm hoping for a repeat of 2014/15, there was more interesting riding and the skiing was all around legendary.
I'm going to try out the Schwalbe Winter 30C this upcoming season to see how this fares and I have no interest in the Nokian A10.
No maintenance? Do tell. Chains, washing etc. I'm North of Boston for commuting into Brighton. A very mixed bag for conditions that for me, the A10 would be unusable and unsuitable. YRMV. Are you right in town? Boston proper has better plowing and usually less variable conditions. I have 2 dedicated winter commuting bikes set up with studs. Good luck with your commutes this year. Maybe it will be almost snowless like last year?
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#24
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^^^^ Except for the giant snowbanks. I catch the MM bike path by Spy pond, they do a great job of plowing. How do you know you are a dedicated Boston winter bike commuter? When the tracks you are following are a set of fat bike tires and a set of xc ski tracks (truth)
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I forget which dump this pic followed. At one point in 2014/15 they gave up plowing the Minuteman and cross country skiers ruled.
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