For the love of English 3 speeds...
Phyllo-buster
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Look for a date code on the rear hub as well.
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So, as I have tried this forum people have asked for pictures. I just tried. I can't seem to just cut and paste so I went to "tinypics" and tried to convert to url. Now site says that I am not allowed to post picture till I have 10 posts. Hum.
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HUMBER '69 Can't show you though
Does this work?
Trying to post a picture here is a little tricky for me...
Can't post a pic until I submit ten posts?
Is that accurate?
Trying to post a picture here is a little tricky for me...
Can't post a pic until I submit ten posts?
Is that accurate?
Senior Member
I'm glad photobucket shut off 3rd party images. Forced me to flicker which is far better than photobucket ever was. But, this forum does have an integrated image feature, but it is rather convoluted to use. Here's how it works.
click "go advanced"
Then click the little paper clip icon
then, use the browse button to select the image on your hard drive
then, upload
then shut off the dialog window and click the paper clip icon again and click "insert"
better yet, get a flicker account.
click "go advanced"
Then click the little paper clip icon
then, use the browse button to select the image on your hard drive
then, upload
then shut off the dialog window and click the paper clip icon again and click "insert"
better yet, get a flicker account.
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1st pic raleigh 2.jpg is this an image?
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Some how I have done it. So there is the bike. No serial numbers anywhere I can find, seat post, bottom bracket. read drop out nor Head tube. I think (google images) it's an early Dawn Tourist. It is a one speed. all original with a bad repaint. The spokes look very zinc-y. Is Raleigh stainless steal a ferrous stainless?1st pic raleigh 3.jpg
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Humber '69
aka Tom Reingold
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They used zinc plated spokes, not stainless. Stainless came out much later.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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Wow, nice, nice bike. These bikes can be hard to date because they changed so little over the years, but I can see from the steering tube lug shape that this bike was made before 1955. The pedals are 1970s replacements.
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I'm one step closer to finishing my roadster. A perfect chain guard showed up on ebay and I nabbed it. The original was badly pitted so I used filler and a total repaint. This one has just the right amount of damage...err...patina to match the bike. Now, I just need the right mudguards. That could take a while.
DL1chain guard by Billy Bones, on Flickr
DL1chain guard by Billy Bones, on Flickr
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Miller72 you put all your google pics up................I have difficulty with links pics and don't have a 9 year old kid to correct me. This lap top is over 10 yrs old. The neighbor down the street has this in there front yard, a phone pic this morning.
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Thank you all for your help. And to BigChief, Interesting that you should say pre 1955. etched on the side of the rt pedal is a name. Not a common name. one born 1897 [too old?] and one born 1952. I would date the repaint to 1970 maybe a little earlier. With a 70's pedal I say it was purchased or given 2nd hand about then. But how old it it? When I settle in for the winter I will strip it down, find any numbers, and send the frame off for repaint. I have never rebuilt a bicycle before. Except, under the back porch of the tenement with friends in 1952. I have done other restorations. Please advice me as to the parts that I should save and those that I should expect to replace.
Old fart
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That's a decent looking Sports. Seems a shame to have it die a slow, rusty death as a "garden bike."
aka: Mike J.
Would anyone have a cotter press that I can buy or borrow for a few days? I've got a '74 Sports with a particularly ornery cotter on the chainring side. I was able to tap out the other side with firm whacking with a slide hammer, but the sliding weight doesn't clear the chainring. So I used a rod with the crank supported on the end of a 2x4, then went over to a large plumbing vise and still no success. The cotter is peening over and beginning to bend. I now have the bearings out of the non-fixed side so the crank is now floppy, argh. I'm in Wisconsin north of Milwaukee.
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On the road
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Absolutely - Raleigh was an early adopter of more rust-resistant steel alloys. They were indeed called "stainless", though the alloy is different from today's common stainless. The rust resistance is certainly less than today's stainless, but also certainly greater than the plain steel of that era.
Schwinn also had stainless steel rims on some of their own, more deluxe three speeds like the fillet brazed Continental and Superior bikes of the 1940s. The Schwinn stainless has much better rust resistance than the Raleigh stainless of that era.
Schwinn also had stainless steel rims on some of their own, more deluxe three speeds like the fillet brazed Continental and Superior bikes of the 1940s. The Schwinn stainless has much better rust resistance than the Raleigh stainless of that era.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Last edited by SirMike1983; 08-03-17 at 08:31 PM.
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Me too
It figures I somehow posted every picture I have ever taken...I can't open/see your picture but from what I have read by others it's a beauty with potential!!
I need to go work on the picture thing
Some how I have done it. So there is the bike. No serial numbers anywhere I can find, seat post, bottom bracket. read drop out nor Head tube. I think (google images) it's an early Dawn Tourist. It is a one speed. all original with a bad repaint. The spokes look very zinc-y. Is Raleigh stainless steal a ferrous stainless?Attachment 574619
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The important thing about the forum is that you members notice the little things. Big Chief, I'm going to have to look into the rod brake history of early Raleigh. There is also something else wrong. The rear fender shows the white tail thru the peeling black repaint but I cannot find an image of a Raleigh with two sets of fender stays. Either this is a limited production or maybe a Schwinn fender but the white showing thru? two more pictures I have might help you find something else.[ATTACH]1st pic raleigh.jpg[/ATTACH]