Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#4801
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put it in a bag with a bunch of baking soda, shake the bag up, and then let it sit for several days
then dump out the baking soda, then wash it with detergent and more baking soda
dry it in the dryer
if the smell persists, just febreeze it every time you wear it to a party
then dump out the baking soda, then wash it with detergent and more baking soda
dry it in the dryer
if the smell persists, just febreeze it every time you wear it to a party
Thanks!
#4802
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Try putting it in the freezer first, I think that’s what “they” recommend when your jeans start smelling but you don’t want to wash ‘em...
#4803
Lapped 3x
#4804
Lapped 3x
The skinsuit funk is bacteria. Synthetic fabrics (some more than others), seem to be able to harbour bacteria better than natural fibers. Basically, wicking fabrics also attract your skin/skin oils onto the fabric. These bacteria feed on them, and the bacteria are pretty tough to remove, so you have to try to kill the bacteria, AND "degrease" your clothes.
Some solutions to kill the bacteria:
Freezing - try to kill the bacteria that way
Change the pH - baking soda OR vinegar may work, you may need to try both
Use an enzyme wash - Mirazyme is good https://www.rei.com/product/694530/g...dor-eliminator. It literally breaks the bacteria apart. I've used this on shoes, tents, and carpet and it's always worked.
To "degrease" your clothes regular detergent won't work. You'll have to use a cleaner that breaks down grease/oil. Lysol Kitchen and Bath works well. You can dilute it to 10% with hot water, and soak the garments before you wash them. Use a 5Gal bucket to do this so that you can stir and agitate the garment to make sure that it is fully saturated, or just let it soak in your machine. Let soak, rinse, and then wash as normal.
Another thing to think about is sanitizing your wash machine every once in a while. Run an small empty load in there of diluted Spray 9. Your wash machine never fully extracts all the water after a cycle, and this leaves a wet/musty environment for bacteria to thrive in the recesses of the machine.
I wear synthetic wicking shirts for 8-10 hours a day (high viz stuff). My shirts get hit hard with oil/sweat/mechanical greases. I have 5 each of undershirts and Hi-Viz, and just throw them in the hamper at the end of the day. I probably have to run through a cycle of all my syntheitcs with Lysol in the machine about once every 1.5-2 months.
Some solutions to kill the bacteria:
Freezing - try to kill the bacteria that way
Change the pH - baking soda OR vinegar may work, you may need to try both
Use an enzyme wash - Mirazyme is good https://www.rei.com/product/694530/g...dor-eliminator. It literally breaks the bacteria apart. I've used this on shoes, tents, and carpet and it's always worked.
To "degrease" your clothes regular detergent won't work. You'll have to use a cleaner that breaks down grease/oil. Lysol Kitchen and Bath works well. You can dilute it to 10% with hot water, and soak the garments before you wash them. Use a 5Gal bucket to do this so that you can stir and agitate the garment to make sure that it is fully saturated, or just let it soak in your machine. Let soak, rinse, and then wash as normal.
Another thing to think about is sanitizing your wash machine every once in a while. Run an small empty load in there of diluted Spray 9. Your wash machine never fully extracts all the water after a cycle, and this leaves a wet/musty environment for bacteria to thrive in the recesses of the machine.
I wear synthetic wicking shirts for 8-10 hours a day (high viz stuff). My shirts get hit hard with oil/sweat/mechanical greases. I have 5 each of undershirts and Hi-Viz, and just throw them in the hamper at the end of the day. I probably have to run through a cycle of all my syntheitcs with Lysol in the machine about once every 1.5-2 months.
Last edited by taras0000; 02-05-18 at 11:59 AM.
#4805
aka mattio
Nah, this doesn't work. I tried this with a helmet, and a bike racing scientist I know said, "yeah, freezing. that's what we do to preserve the similar bacteria we work with in the lab. won't kill 'em." Sure enough, my helmet still smelled bad. Vinegar worked though.
#4807
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Thanks, everyone. I'll keep you posted. I have 2 that I bought at the same time and are in the same condition. I can A/B test the techniques and report back.
#4808
Lapped 3x
#4809
Lapped 3x
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5028-5...ee-Sports-Wash
#4811
aka mattio
since the gains to be had by an aero crankset over a nonaero one are extremely marginal to the point of being indecipherable, aero cranksets aren't in common use at all so i don't think there's anything approaching consensus on what's the best.
#4812
Senior Member
100% bought because it looks swish. If it looks fast, it must be fast
#4814
Senior Member
This is an old question, probably one that many of you have not considered since you were new in the sport: Step in pedals: float or no float? I've been on old style clips and straps and this is new (again) to me. I was assuming no float, but then with setting up my new shoes my LBS did not have the no float cleats, and I'm stuck with 4.5˚ for now. But I kinda like it. Is this wrong? What are the arguments against float for a sprinter?
Last edited by Baby Puke; 02-06-18 at 07:39 PM.
#4816
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This is an old question, probably one that many of you have not considered since you were new in the sport: Step in pedals: float or no float? I've been on old style clips and straps and this is new (again) to me. I was assuming no float, but then with setting up my new shoes my LBS did not have the no float cleats, and I'm stuck with 4.5˚ for now. But I kinda like it. Is this wrong? What are the arguments against float for a sprinter?
Every track sprinter that I've noticed uses no-float cleats. Male or female, elite or masters, national level and above, the sprinters all used no-float cleats. You can spot them. Shimano 0-float cleats have red "pontoons" (rubber grippy things on the outside of the cleat). The LOOK 0-float cleats are black.
They are inexpensive and currently being used by the fastest men's Team Sprint team in the world right now.
They don't have the history of reliability or pedigree of Sugino, Dura Ace, or SRM. So, no one knows how well they age being that they are new.
With that being said, "aero" cranks will not make one faster. Between the dirty air coming off of the front wheel, the turbulence added by the down tube, the legs and feet churning along side and above the cranks, a tapered edge here and there will simply go unnoticed.
...but, advertising cranks as being aero is a great way to sell cranks
#4817
Senior Member
No-float.
Every track sprinter that I've noticed uses no-float cleats. Male or female, elite or masters, national level and above, the sprinters all used no-float cleats. You can spot them. Shimano 0-float cleats have red "pontoons" (rubber grippy things on the outside of the cleat). The LOOK 0-float cleats are black.
Every track sprinter that I've noticed uses no-float cleats. Male or female, elite or masters, national level and above, the sprinters all used no-float cleats. You can spot them. Shimano 0-float cleats have red "pontoons" (rubber grippy things on the outside of the cleat). The LOOK 0-float cleats are black.
#4818
Senior Member
This is an old question, probably one that many of you have not considered since you were new in the sport: Step in pedals: float or no float? I've been on old style clips and straps and this is new (again) to me. I was assuming no float, but then with setting up my new shoes my LBS did not have the no float cleats, and I'm stuck with 4.5˚ for now. But I kinda like it. Is this wrong? What are the arguments against float for a sprinter?
#4819
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Float. I had this discussion with my bike fitter who is very very good with all this stuff when I turned up for my custom frame fit with fixed cleats. Basically he said you don't use fixed unless you have your position totally and utterly dialed in. Otherwise fixed will cause you more problems physically than they're worth. I guess sprinters aren't really on the bike long enough to see too much damage from their use. I did notice some minor knee discomfort disappear once I went to float vs fixed on my road shoes after that discussion
This is the same thinking that has people saying that "Squats will give you knee problems!" No. Improper squats will give you knee problems as any exercise done improperly
In my experience, it takes about 15 to 30 minutes of trial, error, and patience to properly dial in a set of 0-float cleats on my shoes. Maybe some bike fitters don't want to spend that much time of the session doing that?
I use 0-float for track and road. I toss the yellow cleats that come with new pedals
On a related note: Look for the red 0-float cleats in this Tour De France gallery. They aren't just for track sprinters.
Tour de France shoes gallery - BikeRadar
#4820
Senior Member
Well, if Contador is using the fixed cleats, then who am I ...
#4821
aka mattio
Float. I had this discussion with my bike fitter who is very very good with all this stuff when I turned up for my custom frame fit with fixed cleats. Basically he said you don't use fixed unless you have your position totally and utterly dialed in. Otherwise fixed will cause you more problems physically than they're worth. I guess sprinters aren't really on the bike long enough to see too much damage from their use. I did notice some minor knee discomfort disappear once I went to float vs fixed on my road shoes after that discussion
I don't move my feet when I'm clipped in - I don't really take advantage of the float. It's not like it leaves you feeling all loosey-goosey. But if gives you some wiggle room to find that perfect foot/knee/hip position in your stroke.
#4822
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I want to clarify.
My points are basically:
- At the end of the day, it's a personal preference. Whatever works for you and gives you confidence.
- 0-float cleats aren't more dangerous. They simply provide fewer foot position options.
- Improperly adjusted cleats of varying degrees of float may cause injury.
- I believe that wide float ranges simply allow for riders/fitters to get a cleat in the general vicinity of the best position and let the rider settle in from there. It literally provides wiggle room.
My points are basically:
- At the end of the day, it's a personal preference. Whatever works for you and gives you confidence.
- 0-float cleats aren't more dangerous. They simply provide fewer foot position options.
- Improperly adjusted cleats of varying degrees of float may cause injury.
- I believe that wide float ranges simply allow for riders/fitters to get a cleat in the general vicinity of the best position and let the rider settle in from there. It literally provides wiggle room.
#4823
Lapped 3x
#4824
Senior Member
#4825
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The Vision and Rotor cranks were at the top of my shortlist, so thanks
I'm building a new A bike, so I need new cranks...I'm not thinking of 'upgrading' my Omnium cranks on my B bike.
I'm building a new A bike, so I need new cranks...I'm not thinking of 'upgrading' my Omnium cranks on my B bike.