Ironman Information Thread
05-09-18, 02:34 PM
#176
Not lost wanderer.
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Bikes: In USA; 73 Raleigh Super Course dingle speed, 72 Raleigh Gran Sport SS, 72 Geoffry Butler, 81 Centurion Pro-Tour, 74 Gugie Grandier Sportier
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Hey is this a place I can find the age of my Centurion Pro-Tour serial #N3L0135
05-09-18, 03:17 PM
#177
Full Member
"Most Japanese models during this period use a serial number format WXYZZZZ where;
W = a letter, purpose uncertain, but probably indicates manufacturer or Centurion
X = a number, indicating the calendar year of manufacture
Y = a letter, indicating the fortnight of manufacture (A = wk 1 & 2, B = wk 3 & 4, etc)
ZZZZ = four digit number, probably indicating frame number during fortnight
Example: N4E0283 indicates the 283 frame manufactured during the period of weeks 9-10, for the year 1984. "
--which would make yours an '83 with a June birthday.
Last edited by belacqua; 05-09-18 at 03:21 PM.
05-09-18, 03:42 PM
#178
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this is what @T-Mar, a credible source, says:
"Most Japanese models during this period use a serial number format WXYZZZZ where;
W = a letter, purpose uncertain, but probably indicates manufacturer or Centurion
X = a number, indicating the calendar year of manufacture
Y = a letter, indicating the fortnight of manufacture (A = wk 1 & 2, B = wk 3 & 4, etc)
ZZZZ = four digit number, probably indicating frame number during fortnight
Example: N4E0283 indicates the 283 frame manufactured during the period of weeks 9-10, for the year 1984. "
--which would make yours an '83 with a June birthday.
"Most Japanese models during this period use a serial number format WXYZZZZ where;
W = a letter, purpose uncertain, but probably indicates manufacturer or Centurion
X = a number, indicating the calendar year of manufacture
Y = a letter, indicating the fortnight of manufacture (A = wk 1 & 2, B = wk 3 & 4, etc)
ZZZZ = four digit number, probably indicating frame number during fortnight
Example: N4E0283 indicates the 283 frame manufactured during the period of weeks 9-10, for the year 1984. "
--which would make yours an '83 with a June birthday.
06-27-18, 08:26 PM
#179
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Location: northern michigan
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Can someone give me the digital scale weight of the “Expert” model? I’m curious and would appreciate knowing. This will help with some plans I have.
thank you!
thank you!
06-28-18, 04:12 AM
#180
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My 87 56cm Japanese market(lugged fork) frame/fork/105 headset/BB weighed 7.45lbs on the local post office scale.
06-28-18, 07:23 PM
#183
aka: Dr. Cannondale
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07-09-18, 09:55 AM
#184
Senior Member
At the risk of making a redundant post:
I have an '87 Expert (Miami Vice) Will an HP-6400 headset fit?
I think the HP-1050 that I pulled off of the bike has a 27mm crown race and I think that the HP-6400 has a 26.4 crown race.
Or are there HP-6400 headsets with a 27mm crown race?
I know some of the Masters had the HP-6400... what am I missing here?
Thanks for any help!
Austin
I have an '87 Expert (Miami Vice) Will an HP-6400 headset fit?
I think the HP-1050 that I pulled off of the bike has a 27mm crown race and I think that the HP-6400 has a 26.4 crown race.
Or are there HP-6400 headsets with a 27mm crown race?
I know some of the Masters had the HP-6400... what am I missing here?
Thanks for any help!
Austin
07-11-18, 08:47 PM
#185
Banned.
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At the risk of making a redundant post:
I have an '87 Expert (Miami Vice) Will an HP-6400 headset fit?
I think the HP-1050 that I pulled off of the bike has a 27mm crown race and I think that the HP-6400 has a 26.4 crown race.
Or are there HP-6400 headsets with a 27mm crown race?
I know some of the Masters had the HP-6400... what am I missing here?
Thanks for any help!
Austin
I have an '87 Expert (Miami Vice) Will an HP-6400 headset fit?
I think the HP-1050 that I pulled off of the bike has a 27mm crown race and I think that the HP-6400 has a 26.4 crown race.
Or are there HP-6400 headsets with a 27mm crown race?
I know some of the Masters had the HP-6400... what am I missing here?
Thanks for any help!
Austin
07-11-18, 09:37 PM
#186
Senior Member
Just disassembled my IM. My 60cm 1989 IM Expert has a 27.2 seatpost, 42-52 GPX 172.5 cranks and a 13-23 (not 24) 7 speed freewheel. Mavic MA40 rims on GPX hubs, not Araya CTLs but they could be replacements for all I know.
Otherwise it fits the listed specs.
Otherwise it fits the listed specs.
07-13-18, 05:16 PM
#189
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1988 Hawaii Ironman Race Memory
I'm a newbie so getting caught up on things. I gotta tell you, seeing that photo of Dave's bike in the Kona rack brought back something burned into my memory. I was a volunteer at the '88 race and met Dave a few days before. I was so pumped to be there. Then, on race morning as I walked through transition I saw Dave's rack spot.....and no bike 
He had a knee issue that he was hoping would be ok but it wasn't meant to be. Molina went on to win and Paula crushed the women's race. And all these years later Dave and I are friends-ish. He's come stay with me here in Ottawa a number of times to facilitate some camps for my triathlon club. Great memories. Now to get my hands on my own Centurion!
He had a knee issue that he was hoping would be ok but it wasn't meant to be. Molina went on to win and Paula crushed the women's race. And all these years later Dave and I are friends-ish. He's come stay with me here in Ottawa a number of times to facilitate some camps for my triathlon club. Great memories. Now to get my hands on my own Centurion!1988 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman Carbon
Frame: Carbon main triangle, carbon stays inserted into aluminum lugs
Fork: Aluminum sloped crown
Wheelset: Shimano 7400 hubs laced to Araya CTL-370 rims.
BB: 7400
Crankset: Shimano 7400
Calipers: Shimano 7400
Levers: Shimano 7400
Bars: Nitto B115-390 (<=54cm) -420 (=>56cm)
Stem: Nitto
Headset: Shimano 7400
Shifters: Shimano 7400
FD: Shimano 7400 28.6 clamp
RD: Shimano 7400
Seatpost: American Classic 25.4
Saddle: Vetta Turbo
Tires: Panaracer Technova II
Cassette: Shimano HG 2x7
Color: Alloy lugs, clear coated black carbon fiber, alloy fork
Scheme: none
Graphics: Squiggles and Geometric shapes in the DT decal and on headbadge.
DT Decal: Centurion in a new un-shaded thinner font, more graduated thickness.
TT Decal: Ironman logo with Dave Scott signature, "Carbon" added over Ironman
Headbadge Decal(s): New heavy "C" without shading, with geometric shapes
Seat stay decal: Squiggles below the caps, no text
Tange Decal: Clear/colored decal on top of fork legs only.
HT Decal: Made in Japan below the headbadge
ST Decal: Centurion on the sides, nearly same size as DT decal
An Ironman Carbon used by Dave Scott.
*Can't include photo in my reply as I'm a newbie to the forum*
Frame: Carbon main triangle, carbon stays inserted into aluminum lugs
Fork: Aluminum sloped crown
Wheelset: Shimano 7400 hubs laced to Araya CTL-370 rims.
BB: 7400
Crankset: Shimano 7400
Calipers: Shimano 7400
Levers: Shimano 7400
Bars: Nitto B115-390 (<=54cm) -420 (=>56cm)
Stem: Nitto
Headset: Shimano 7400
Shifters: Shimano 7400
FD: Shimano 7400 28.6 clamp
RD: Shimano 7400
Seatpost: American Classic 25.4
Saddle: Vetta Turbo
Tires: Panaracer Technova II
Cassette: Shimano HG 2x7
Color: Alloy lugs, clear coated black carbon fiber, alloy fork
Scheme: none
Graphics: Squiggles and Geometric shapes in the DT decal and on headbadge.
DT Decal: Centurion in a new un-shaded thinner font, more graduated thickness.
TT Decal: Ironman logo with Dave Scott signature, "Carbon" added over Ironman
Headbadge Decal(s): New heavy "C" without shading, with geometric shapes
Seat stay decal: Squiggles below the caps, no text
Tange Decal: Clear/colored decal on top of fork legs only.
HT Decal: Made in Japan below the headbadge
ST Decal: Centurion on the sides, nearly same size as DT decal
An Ironman Carbon used by Dave Scott.
*Can't include photo in my reply as I'm a newbie to the forum*
07-19-18, 01:42 AM
#190
Senior Member
89 Expert
I was given a 83 Lemans 12 a few years ago and have put about 1000 miles on it. I really like it even though I know its not really anything special. With that in mind I have had my eyes open for another Centurion. I was looking on E-Bay and saw one not too far from me (180 miles or so) so I made a $100 offer on the Dave Scott Ironman Expert, then I went to bed. Low and behold in the morning I had a counter offer of $160. I started looking it over and from the pictures I determined it was a all original 89 in smoke on the water blue. I didn't dicker any more I just bought it. After about a 8 hour drive with my understanding wife I got it home. It has evidently sat for many years but looks to have been gently used. Only a couple of chips and a lot of grime. The saddle is shot as is the bar tape and the rear shifter cable. I am replacing all the cables and will service all the bearings. I will probably have more questions but the one I have now is about the bar tape. It appears to be put on backwards from the modern way of wrapping the tape. It starts at polished part of the bar and ends at the plug with no electrical tape. That is the way I used to do mine until I was told I was doing it wrong. I think it looks a lot better that way. Is that how these were done at the factory? From the pictures I see on here it looks like it.
07-19-18, 02:00 AM
#191
Senior Member
I've had only 2 Ironman with factory wrap and I don't remember. Someone else will probably chime in who knows. But congratulations on your new acquisition and welcome to the club. Don't forget to check out the Thread: Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs for inspiration.
07-19-18, 02:18 PM
#193
Senior Member
I i remember right, it was a change that happened when drops were getting away from the benotto and cloth tape bars going to the cork base.
If its Cork base or any of the padded bar tape then they say go bottom up
if its a benotto or a clot tape then you can go top down.
It basically has to do with the cork tape being as flexible as it is and stretching. so you wrap in the direction that the hand would move to tighten the tape not loosen.
If its Cork base or any of the padded bar tape then they say go bottom up
if its a benotto or a clot tape then you can go top down.
It basically has to do with the cork tape being as flexible as it is and stretching. so you wrap in the direction that the hand would move to tighten the tape not loosen.
07-20-18, 01:19 AM
#194
Senior Member
Thanks for the info. I guess I was right and mine was factory. I am not a "gripper" and usually just lightly hold my bars so I guess that's how I got away with mine not getting loose even with the newer tape. I think I will do this one that way too it just looks better to me not to have electrical tape on my bike.
07-20-18, 09:57 PM
#195
Me duelen las nalgas
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I was given a 83 Lemans 12 a few years ago and have put about 1000 miles on it. I really like it even though I know its not really anything special. With that in mind I have had my eyes open for another Centurion. I was looking on E-Bay and saw one not too far from me (180 miles or so) so I made a $100 offer on the Dave Scott Ironman Expert, then I went to bed. Low and behold in the morning I had a counter offer of $160. I started looking it over and from the pictures I determined it was a all original 89 in smoke on the water blue. I didn't dicker any more I just bought it. After about a 8 hour drive with my understanding wife I got it home. It has evidently sat for many years but looks to have been gently used. Only a couple of chips and a lot of grime. The saddle is shot as is the bar tape and the rear shifter cable. I am replacing all the cables and will service all the bearings. I will probably have more questions but the one I have now is about the bar tape. It appears to be put on backwards from the modern way of wrapping the tape. It starts at polished part of the bar and ends at the plug with no electrical tape. That is the way I used to do mine until I was told I was doing it wrong. I think it looks a lot better that way. Is that how these were done at the factory? From the pictures I see on here it looks like it.
Still have my eye open for a red Ironman.
07-21-18, 08:07 AM
#196
Senior Member
I have a Miami Vice that has the original shimano 105 components with the exception Of gripshift 7 speed (originally a 6 speed DT shifters). Currently I'm using the original chain. My question is will a 9 speed chain work on there with No issues?
Has anyone had "Actual Experience" with this?
If not I guess I'll be the first to try and go by practical application and Not theory.
Has anyone had "Actual Experience" with this?
If not I guess I'll be the first to try and go by practical application and Not theory.
07-21-18, 08:30 AM
#197
aka: Dr. Cannondale
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Yes, it will work, and I have actual experience. Because the chain is narrower externally, you may have to mess with cable tension to get it closer to the next upshift cog, but other than that it's OK. Downshiftng is typically not a problem.
Having said that, I still prefer to use 6-7-8 speed chain for this application, usually SRAM 850. It's relatively inexpensive and lasts a long time.
Having said that, I still prefer to use 6-7-8 speed chain for this application, usually SRAM 850. It's relatively inexpensive and lasts a long time.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
07-21-18, 09:17 AM
#198
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Confirm the good doctor.
Top
Top
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
07-21-18, 09:37 PM
#200
Senior Member
No this one was from out in East Texas close to Palestine. He said he bought it at a garage sale. He probably gave $10 for it but I don't care. He spends his time rescuing old bikes from where ever he can find them and saving them from the scrap yard. Super nice old guy (he was about my age)