Is it worth it to rebuild Shimano 600 pedals??
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WGB
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Is it worth it to rebuild Shimano 600 pedals??
I have a set of 600 pedals (can't work out which model but I think 6207??). Right pedals spins like a top but left is stiff. I assume new grease and bearings but haven't opened them up because
a) I was told by someone who took a pedal apart that "they won't go back together because they use really tiny bearings".
b) same person - "they were a bad pedal to begin with and no one uses them anymore anyway"
c) you need a special and hard to find tool to strip them and when you do you will either crush the threads in a vise or wreck the dust cap and then they will just fall apart
d) even if you do rebuild them, no one makes cleats anymore that fit these pedals.
I looked on line but only found the TL-PD40 tool which seems to be used for SPD pedals so does anyone know what tool I'd need. Only videos I found were for SPD pedals. I did see a diagramof a 105 pedal but that pedal was stripped by unscrewing the pedal nut and no dust cap entry.
If I do try, do they make caged bearings (such as you use for a bottom bracket or do you have to go with loose bearings?
You see 600 pedals on eBay and elsewhere really really cheap so just wondering if it's worth it.
a) I was told by someone who took a pedal apart that "they won't go back together because they use really tiny bearings".
b) same person - "they were a bad pedal to begin with and no one uses them anymore anyway"
c) you need a special and hard to find tool to strip them and when you do you will either crush the threads in a vise or wreck the dust cap and then they will just fall apart
d) even if you do rebuild them, no one makes cleats anymore that fit these pedals.
I looked on line but only found the TL-PD40 tool which seems to be used for SPD pedals so does anyone know what tool I'd need. Only videos I found were for SPD pedals. I did see a diagramof a 105 pedal but that pedal was stripped by unscrewing the pedal nut and no dust cap entry.
If I do try, do they make caged bearings (such as you use for a bottom bracket or do you have to go with loose bearings?
You see 600 pedals on eBay and elsewhere really really cheap so just wondering if it's worth it.
#2
Senior Member
I have a set of 600 pedals (can't work out which model but I think 6207??). Right pedals spins like a top but left is stiff. I assume new grease and bearings but haven't opened them up because
a) I was told by someone who took a pedal apart that "they won't go back together because they use really tiny bearings".
b) same person - "they were a bad pedal to begin with and no one uses them anymore anyway"
c) you need a special and hard to find tool to strip them and when you do you will either crush the threads in a vise or wreck the dust cap and then they will just fall apart
d) even if you do rebuild them, no one makes cleats anymore that fit these pedals.
I looked on line but only found the TL-PD40 tool which seems to be used for SPD pedals so does anyone know what tool I'd need. Only videos I found were for SPD pedals. I did see a diagramof a 105 pedal but that pedal was stripped by unscrewing the pedal nut and no dust cap entry.
If I do try, do they make caged bearings (such as you use for a bottom bracket or do you have to go with loose bearings?
You see 600 pedals on eBay and elsewhere really really cheap so just wondering if it's worth it.
a) I was told by someone who took a pedal apart that "they won't go back together because they use really tiny bearings".
b) same person - "they were a bad pedal to begin with and no one uses them anymore anyway"
c) you need a special and hard to find tool to strip them and when you do you will either crush the threads in a vise or wreck the dust cap and then they will just fall apart
d) even if you do rebuild them, no one makes cleats anymore that fit these pedals.
I looked on line but only found the TL-PD40 tool which seems to be used for SPD pedals so does anyone know what tool I'd need. Only videos I found were for SPD pedals. I did see a diagramof a 105 pedal but that pedal was stripped by unscrewing the pedal nut and no dust cap entry.
If I do try, do they make caged bearings (such as you use for a bottom bracket or do you have to go with loose bearings?
You see 600 pedals on eBay and elsewhere really really cheap so just wondering if it's worth it.
IIRC the dustcaps pop off and the rest is like any other pedal: spindle, adjustable cone, locknut.
You can use those with regular or 'touring' shoes. They will also work with most standard slotted cleats of the era. Slot cleats are still available that fit 3 hole cycling shoes, but if you want to go that route you may as well just put modern clipless on there.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 09-19-18 at 10:59 AM.
#3
Senior Member
I can’t speak to these particular pedals, but echo Salamandrine’s point. There are plenty of things that “aren’t worth it” if you do the math, but keeping perfectly good gear going for more miles is part of what I enjoy about vintage bikes in general.
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...I run a lot of these pedals, but the point about the tod clips being difficult to find (at reasonable prices) is a valid one.
The clips, as manufactured, ran small for american feet, so with a size 11 American shoe, I need the Extra Large size clips to properly position my foot.
If you have smaller feet, you'll probably have better luck. Wonderful pedals. I grind off those two cleat tabs from the triangular plate that affixes the toe clips, and use them with MTB/touring shoes.
If what you have has intact clips, they are well worth rebuilding. AS stated already, pretty much constructed like any other pedal. They all have tiny bearings, IME.
The reason they went away is because they came out at about the same time everyone started going to clipless pedals. Whoever that person is, they're not real good on this information as a go to source. If you want to go clipless, that's fine. But these are a well constructed, useful pedal in the right circumstances.
The clips, as manufactured, ran small for american feet, so with a size 11 American shoe, I need the Extra Large size clips to properly position my foot.
If you have smaller feet, you'll probably have better luck. Wonderful pedals. I grind off those two cleat tabs from the triangular plate that affixes the toe clips, and use them with MTB/touring shoes.
If what you have has intact clips, they are well worth rebuilding. AS stated already, pretty much constructed like any other pedal. They all have tiny bearings, IME.
same person - "they were a bad pedal to begin with and no one uses them anymore anyway"
#5
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No, those were very good pedals, +10 the move to clip less pedals made them obsolete. Those metal cages are hard to come by (lower models of these pedals like 105 used plastic cages that are usually broken by now.
+100 the clips run small.
Depends what you call "cheap". They do decent on ebay if they have the original metal cages.
+100 the clips run small.
Depends what you call "cheap". They do decent on ebay if they have the original metal cages.
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These pedals are no more difficult to overhaul than a conventional toe clip and strap pedal. At 5/32", the ball bearings are typical of many pedals. I like the design and the only drawback are the dedicated clips. Personally, I gain a lot of satisfaction in maintaining my bicycles and preventing things from becoming recycling scrap before they absolutely have to. This may help ease any anxiety...
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I would re-build them. It doesn't matter that they don't have a high resale value. Someone will be able to use them.
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#8
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I have no issue with trying and when someone says it's not worth it I like a second opinion, that's why I posted here.
Last question, do they make a caged bearings set for 5/32nd bearings? If not it looks like 11 bearings x 2 per pedal or 50 to safe and have a few for losses.
Last question, do they make a caged bearings set for 5/32nd bearings? If not it looks like 11 bearings x 2 per pedal or 50 to safe and have a few for losses.
#9
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Rebuilding pedals is ok as long as the right tools are on hand to get the nut fully tightened against the cone.
Pedals with a very thick keyed washer between nut and cone are a safer bet for rebuilding, unless tools are used to hold the cone from turning while the nut is tightened.
Pedals with a very thick keyed washer between nut and cone are a safer bet for rebuilding, unless tools are used to hold the cone from turning while the nut is tightened.
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The toe clips are really, truly, very small. I've tried using the 105 versions with plastic clips several times, broke the clips immediately each time.
I've shared this photo before, and I haven't tried this myself yet, like @branko_76 said, "someone will be able to use them."
I've shared this photo before, and I haven't tried this myself yet, like @branko_76 said, "someone will be able to use them."
#11
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I have no issue with trying and when someone says it's not worth it I like a second opinion, that's why I posted here.
Last question, do they make a caged bearings set for 5/32nd bearings? If not it looks like 11 bearings x 2 per pedal or 50 to safe and have a few for losses.
Last question, do they make a caged bearings set for 5/32nd bearings? If not it looks like 11 bearings x 2 per pedal or 50 to safe and have a few for losses.
Even today's cheap components typically come with high-grade chromium balls, you'd almost have to go to WalMart to find really low-grade bearings anymore.
#13
Senior Member
The toe clips are really, truly, very small. I've tried using the 105 versions with plastic clips several times, broke the clips immediately each time.
I've shared this photo before, and I haven't tried this myself yet, like @branko_76 said, "someone will be able to use them."
I've shared this photo before, and I haven't tried this myself yet, like @branko_76 said, "someone will be able to use them."
Reminds me of the time when I was about 10 and the pedal on my Schwinn 24" middle weight (middle weight Schwinn? wuwt?) broke and I found the only tools in the house (a hack saw and a 12" crescent wrench) and made the repair with a length of threaded rod. Worked fine for about a mile and then I got my butt kicked for destroying my shoe.
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Another creative use of a Simpson Strong-tie framing angle.
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Extra Large clips are here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Ult...item56ad0766f7
I got a pair last year in case I wanted to ride the Ironman in Eroica CA.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Ult...item56ad0766f7
I got a pair last year in case I wanted to ride the Ironman in Eroica CA.
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I have no issue with trying and when someone says it's not worth it I like a second opinion, that's why I posted here.
Last question, do they make a caged bearings set for 5/32nd bearings? If not it looks like 11 bearings x 2 per pedal or 50 to safe and have a few for losses.
Last question, do they make a caged bearings set for 5/32nd bearings? If not it looks like 11 bearings x 2 per pedal or 50 to safe and have a few for losses.
loose bearings can be a real... BEAR!
But heres the technique. When you’re ready to reinstall, glob a bunch of grease into the race, (I like marine grade blue grease). Then put a blob on a flat bladed screw driver, and use the blob to pick up one ball bearing and mush it into the race grease, and scrape it off. Repeat. They’ll all stay put ‘till you get the axle installed.
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Never used caged bearings on pedals and hubs. Due to the small race diameter you want to use the maximum number of ball bearings. Typically, manufacturers will used caged bearings wherever possible, as they facilitate assembly and cut costs, but caged bearings bearings are rarely seen on hubs and pedals, except for very inexpensive types.
#18
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Just was thinking how easy caged bearings would be....
But yeah, I get the loose bearings and this will be next job at Co-op.
But yeah, I get the loose bearings and this will be next job at Co-op.
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Extra Large clips are here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Ult...item56ad0766f7
I got a pair last year in case I wanted to ride the Ironman in Eroica CA.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Ult...item56ad0766f7
I got a pair last year in case I wanted to ride the Ironman in Eroica CA.
#20
aire díthrub
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Oh, man, that is just so wrong. Unless it's your pedal and you did it in which case, I admire your innovative engineering.
Reminds me of the time when I was about 10 and the pedal on my Schwinn 24" middle weight (middle weight Schwinn? wuwt?) broke and I found the only tools in the house (a hack saw and a 12" crescent wrench) and made the repair with a length of threaded rod. Worked fine for about a mile and then I got my butt kicked for destroying my shoe.
Reminds me of the time when I was about 10 and the pedal on my Schwinn 24" middle weight (middle weight Schwinn? wuwt?) broke and I found the only tools in the house (a hack saw and a 12" crescent wrench) and made the repair with a length of threaded rod. Worked fine for about a mile and then I got my butt kicked for destroying my shoe.
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I think those are great pedals. If you can get a set of clips that let it fit your shoes, the are great to use and very durable. If you want some users that will last another 10 years after you finish and prevents you from having to spend more $$ to get a good modern pedal, this is the pedal.
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Thank you all for the encouragement!
Agreed. Not hard to strip at all, sat on deck with a coffee and hardest part was scrubbing the pieces to clean off old grease spots. Actually had to disassemble a second time as I tightened bolts #4 and #6 (above diagram) a little too tight. Now they are very smooth. just need to be polished up.
Very glad I stripped them as previous owner had removed them from a bike, stripped them and removed almost all the grease and then reassembled them without a re-grease(??). First photo shows how they looked when I opened them up and last picture shows how clean internal parts were. *** I know photo doesn't show the bearings but they would have rolled around and fell of the table and yes, I put them back in.
Funny thing is that I bought these for a planned build but after I had tried another set of pedals with toe clips and those pedals chewed up the toe of my shoes I didn't mounted the 600s. I guess else someone on the forums will get to enjoy them as I will list them shortly along with some other stuff I have to pass on.
Last question is about sealing against water getting inside the pedal. I noted one of the #6 nuts was discoloured, suggesting water had got inside. Any thoughts on a fine bead of silicon between part 7/13 and the pedal body????
Chr0m0ly - brilliant idea for the bearing pick up! I had been using a magnet to collect the bearings from tight spots and to prevent them from getting lost.
Agreed. Not hard to strip at all, sat on deck with a coffee and hardest part was scrubbing the pieces to clean off old grease spots. Actually had to disassemble a second time as I tightened bolts #4 and #6 (above diagram) a little too tight. Now they are very smooth. just need to be polished up.
Very glad I stripped them as previous owner had removed them from a bike, stripped them and removed almost all the grease and then reassembled them without a re-grease(??). First photo shows how they looked when I opened them up and last picture shows how clean internal parts were. *** I know photo doesn't show the bearings but they would have rolled around and fell of the table and yes, I put them back in.
Funny thing is that I bought these for a planned build but after I had tried another set of pedals with toe clips and those pedals chewed up the toe of my shoes I didn't mounted the 600s. I guess else someone on the forums will get to enjoy them as I will list them shortly along with some other stuff I have to pass on.
Last question is about sealing against water getting inside the pedal. I noted one of the #6 nuts was discoloured, suggesting water had got inside. Any thoughts on a fine bead of silicon between part 7/13 and the pedal body????
Chr0m0ly - brilliant idea for the bearing pick up! I had been using a magnet to collect the bearings from tight spots and to prevent them from getting lost.
Last edited by WGB; 09-24-18 at 03:51 PM. Reason: forgot to add bearings
#23
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I don't mess with them. I take them to shops with good mechanic and have them service a batch at a time. That keeps several bikes going.
Those are excellent pedals. Joys to ride and also last a very long time. I cannot give you numbers but I started riding them on my city fix gear ~1990. Since then, they have done all but 8000 miles of my fix gear riding on three different bikes. I consider them a must have so anytime I see a pair in good shape, I buy them. Now, the mechanics tell me they cannot fix around half I bring. Apparently Shimano built them with several different bearing/dustcap/access scenarios and they vary in serviceability. (For fix gears, it doesn't hurt at all that they have very good ground clearance and chrome steel quills - the ideal match for aluminum slotted cleats.)
Ben
Those are excellent pedals. Joys to ride and also last a very long time. I cannot give you numbers but I started riding them on my city fix gear ~1990. Since then, they have done all but 8000 miles of my fix gear riding on three different bikes. I consider them a must have so anytime I see a pair in good shape, I buy them. Now, the mechanics tell me they cannot fix around half I bring. Apparently Shimano built them with several different bearing/dustcap/access scenarios and they vary in serviceability. (For fix gears, it doesn't hurt at all that they have very good ground clearance and chrome steel quills - the ideal match for aluminum slotted cleats.)
Ben
#24
Junior Member
WGB you have the earlier shimano 600ex series, not the same as this hazetguy who posted, Do you see that his have the model 6400 cartridge spindle assembly that threads in pedal body as a unit? The 6207 model that you have is simple, just remove cap to adjust or back off on the bearing tension ie cone adjustment. This 1984 model pedal was made for industry standard (at that time) slotted road cleats, now in this late time you can get cleats made to fit late stock road shoes. The later model owned by Hazet is the PD 6400, which had a specially made (by Shimano) look mount grey slotted cleat that hooked under the front pedal cage for a real crazy hold on pedal for racers in a sprint or Kilo TT for example. I like the older 6207, with universal rear pedal cage, and easy service, just be sure to prep the cap seating bore my degreasing and using red threadlock, so the cap stays in!
The 6400 model also nice to service, after removing the bearing unit with a box wrench (You can see the hex flats are carbon black) you can easily rebuild it with new balls and fresh grease, then lock the nut at end with it adjusted, put back in pedal and ride on for many more miles with a smooth pedal. YOu can see why the industry won;t support these, THEY WONT WEAR OUT, unless you really neglect them
The 6400 model also nice to service, after removing the bearing unit with a box wrench (You can see the hex flats are carbon black) you can easily rebuild it with new balls and fresh grease, then lock the nut at end with it adjusted, put back in pedal and ride on for many more miles with a smooth pedal. YOu can see why the industry won;t support these, THEY WONT WEAR OUT, unless you really neglect them
#25
Junior Member
This is the full detailed factory blowup of the bearing assembly. Can you tell me what had you pull the black bushing seals out of pedal body for the inner side of pedal? Did they come ut rolling nice after the repack? I think the last touch would have to be prepping the outer cap seating of pedal body with a super degreased job where the cap inserts, so that a little red threadlock would hold the plastic cap in? I never owned a set but is see so many of these on ebay with caps gone