son_of_clyde

I'm glad the hose worked for you. Yeah, the lack of shipping info is kind of annoying. I replaced the gauge on my pump with M-C # 9804T61. It's a little smaller than the original, but it was the only one I could find with the proper thread (1/8" BSPT).

himespau 

I've dealt with a couple of companies that don't list shipping (I think Soma is another or at least used to be), and it's something I just have to remember to factor in.

For the gauge, I just bought a new one from Silca. I got one of the script ones that looks older. It doesn't look as precise as the more mechanical looking gauge, but it has the same number of ticks and I figure pump gauges are all going to be +/- ~5% or so anyway. That gets me in the ballpark. I do wish it had a setable target pressure indicator, but that's not the end of the world. I recently saw a Bontrager pump that has the gauge up high where the piston enters the barrel, and I think that's a great idea if if doesn't make the pump topheavy.

drfxit

I recently spent quite a bit of time tracking down appropriate replacement hose for a Silca pump. The “official” replacement hose has 3/16 ID and 7/16 OD and a working pressure of 200+ PSI and costs around $20 from Amazon. McMaster Carr currently has part #7915A21 which is a welding gas hose for oxygen. You can get 10 feet from McMaster for $10 + shipping and fix up three pumps. You may also be able to buy a 3 foot piece from your local welding supply house for about $2 per foot.

drfxit

Most gas line is larger than 3/16 ID and doesn’t have a working pressure rating over 50 PSI. Might work for some applications, but the welding gas hose is much closer to OEM spec for a Silca. Caio!

himespau 

That McMaster Carr #5304K42 suggested above did me quite nicely, I have no problem getting up to 120 psi (it's rated to 250). The 25 feet I got has enough to do my 3 pumps with 5 feet each and still have enough to 2 all over again if they crack or whatever. So far, the tubing has held up well and worked just as I wanted it to and I much prefer the longer lengths. When I wanted to change chucks, I just chopped off the last inch or two with the old chuck and replaced it without worrying about it. 3 feet is just a bit short and 5' works a lot better for me.

Ballenxj

I have a Silca floor pump, I think Track Pump is the model? I've had mine for somewhere around forty years as well, and it still seems to work. I will have to check it again, as I left it outside, and rain has made the shaft rust. I'm going to take it apart for inspection one of these days.

mechanicmatt

This is probably frowned upon in this establishment but I just replaced the hose and head with this.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Twinh...92505077&psc=1

I prefer a locking head.

That said I did rebuild the rest of my pump with official Silva parts and lube.

himespau 

On my superpista (from the 80's not the super expensive modern one), I took the abs chuck from an old Lezyne pump that I'd upgraded a while back and screwed a silca hiro chuck onto the schrader end of that. It looks clunky as all get out, but I can use the abs chuck for schrader (or screw it onto presta if I really want to) and use the bleeder valve on it for all pumps. Then I can use the hiro chuck for the fast on but still locking for presta valves. I like the metal exterior with the replaceable rubber gasket in the hiro. But yeah, I wish it wasn't $65 for a chuck that doesn't even come with a way to insert it into the hose (that's an extra $10 from silca if you don't already have a solution - but I really like the bleeder valve in my solution).

repechage

I took mine apart and handed the parts to the recycler. The barrel that was threaded into the base blew out. The base threads had pulled clear.

mechanicmatt

Did it have the cast iron base? That would have still been handy for some people. My barrel all the way at the bottom has come sharp edged issues. I had file it out or steel wool it or something, can't remember now how I fixed it. Had to use a new leather washer.

That said I used to have a cast iron based one years ago and lost in the 2005 Leadville 100 while I was being support crew for a bunch of doctors. I bought a new used one, but it has a plastic base which I do not like. I have it working perfectly, but it does take a million pumps to get up to pressure. I kind of like a Blackburn pump I've rebuilt more. It seems to pump everything up a little faster.

Jmpierce

I bought mine in the late 80's if I remember right. Its my one and only and I use it about once a week. I'm probably going to jinx myself here but I've never serviced it. The only thing I'm not sure if it works properly is the gauge.

mechanicmatt

I've serviced a lot of these actually. The base there will have a o-ring between the casting and the cylinder that can age poorly, and then there is a leather plunge washer that can age out. That's about it. It will need an oiling or waxing inside the cylinder or a replacement tube at times but otherwise it's a fairly simple repair. I'm sure your gauge is fine but if not the Silva website has all the repair parts including gauges available. It's a brilliant design and does let you dial in on psi wanted.

I just don't like the brass chuck any more. My hands from arthritis can struggle with the attachment to the presta valve.

Jmpierce

I hear you about the arthritis! I've been able to use it still even with my arthritis. I'm not sure if the gauge is bad or not. A friend suggested that I should be careful when filling tires because he said he thought it wasn't accurate. I have a high pressure gauge and should try to "calibrate" it but it seems to be working.



I also have a Silca CO2 head. I've also had this for years but I haven't used it a lot.

drfxit

I didn’t see the McMaster Carr #5304K42 in the online catalog the first time I looked for it - it wasn’t listed in size order with other similar hose. I took another look based on the more recent post and located it. The specs and price would make it a bit better choice than welding gas hose. The welding hose I bought is working fine for me, but next time I’d go with the #5204K42!!

Salamandrine 

Probably pointless trivia in the year 2020, but the plungers on the old Silca track pumps were typically lubricated with Campagnolo grease in every bike shop I worked in. The rubber gaskets in the head had to be replaced occasionally (but not often) with shop use. These pumps were considered the best for good reason. Standard bike shop equipment.

FWIW I prefer my current generation pump, an SKS Kompressor with a Kuwahara Hirame pump head. The pump is about the same, but the head is easier and faster to use.

bikeman68

This is a current repair for me too, as I have 2 Silca road /Pista Floor pumps with the plastic handles, from "86 and'87. I removed the handle w/axle and removed the loose bolts /plastic flanges and leather washers for a good cleaning. I already cleaned out one with bio degreaser and pipe brush,perhaps no good to degrease this way since flash rusting follows this method, so the 2nd pump will get a rag cleaning with an oil solvent or maybe I will try brake cleaner so there will be no residue, This is after me cleaning the leather with toothbrush and Ajax dish soap and to let the leather dry. Valseline is Silcas favorite lube for the leather to smear a long lasting film inside barrel. As for the leather now that I have it clean and dried , I'm asking around about the best prep before I re assemble my cleaned out pump? Is MInk oil good? Or should I use something else to condition the washed out leather? These pumps really go downhill fast if you do not keep up with maintaining the interiors. Last NOTE : I can see there is a tendency for the end of axle nut to come loose and fall to bottom of pump, SO, for my rebuild, I'll leave the bolt and axle threads degreased so that I can drip some BLUE THREADLOCK on these threads to keep that large nut on, as it doesn't have a nylock insert , so the threadlock will be helpful I think, to keep from loosening with so much regular use. Any more ideas from Silca veterans? Thanks everybody God Bless

Minion1

I got given one 3 years ago, it's a white pump with a plastic handle. The leather washer was fine, everything was good but just because I could I used buzzy's slick honey to lubricate the plunger. Worked well, haven't had to touch the pump since.

Gresp15C

I realize this is an old thread, but it showed up in my Google search.

Did a new check valve solve the problem? Mine has a problem where I have to push real hard to get that valve to crack.

noglider 

I'm glad you asked. I haven't done the work yet. How do I get to the check valve, and where do I get a replacement?

SJX426 

The check valve is in the body of the piece that the hose and gauge are mounted. Mine have a plug that you remove. The check valve is a rod with a pentel end that seats in a chamfered hole. A spring allows it to open when pumping If there is corrosion in that assembly, it may work intermittently. If it is stuck open you will not be able to pump as all the air will come out of the tire and into the pump.
P1040751 on Flickr

Pista pumps are taller.

If a stroke does not have resistance, it is the leather plunger that is the problem. Air is escaping by it.

I n

himespau 

Yup, my leather plunger just failed (again). Not sure if my tube is contaminated or not perfectly round or something (or maybe I just got a bad leather washer), but I was surprised to be having to change it out again after just 3 years.

Gresp15C

Ah, I managed to fix it this morning, so here's what I learned. First of all, I got this pump for 5 bucks at St. Vinnie's, and it was in quite distressed condition. The cast metal base was heavily corroded and it looked like the pump may have spent some time in some kind of contaminant like a pile of fertilizer. There were granules of some material in its crevices when I disassembled it. I cleaned it up, put a new coat of paint on the base, and put it back in service. I also replaced the leather gland because the old one had been worn paper thin.

But the point is that its parts are in somewhat unknown condition, and I have no idea how it was originally assembled at the factory.




The check valve is accessed by the big hex head that's below the gage. Here it is. The aluminum washer is the seal, probably original. The back of the pintle fit into a bore in the nut, and the nut was crimped down where shown by the arrow, presumably to retain the pintle. As a result, the pintle was riding in a tapered hole, and probably getting hung up. I couldn't see why it needs to be retained, so long as I watch where the spring goes if I ever disassemble it again. So I un-crimped it as best as I could, and cleaned out the hole with a roughly 4 mm drill bit. Applied a thin layer of silicone grease, and re-assembled. The o-ring looked OK but if it's worn, it could be replaced. Now it all works and I probably won't worry about it again. I did notice that Silca sells a replacement check valve kit for something like 11 bucks. But my rule is: Fix if possible, rather than replace.

SJX426 

@Gresp15C - I didn't notice the crimp on mine. Came right apart without a problem. cleaning this up really improved the movement of the needle! It doesn't go down like it use to.

Gresp15C

The crimp must have been an aftermarket add-on. It didn't seem right, or necessary.

Is yours a Silca, or a different brand?

SJX426 

@Gresp15C - Yes it is an oldy that I bought for show and because it is made with a Columbus tube. It happens to work and I was able to get a replacement silicon gasket for the head from Silca.
P1040744 on Flickr