Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#7126
Old Legs
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#7127
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I have become sufficiently jealous and inspired by this thread. The CL search begins!
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
#7128
Full Member
My 1989 Schwinn Circuit. Shimano 105
#7129
Polymultiplié
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Isn't it? I'm actually thinking of going totally overboard and upgrade to 18-speed!
#7130
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My Brian Rourke has had an update, with some 'new' wheels, Campagnolo Chorus 10 speed hubs, Sapim spokes laced to Mavic Open Pro rims, and Vittoria Corsa G+ tyres.
#7131
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Brent
#7132
Fixie Infamous
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I have become sufficiently jealous and inspired by this thread. The CL search begins!
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
Get some downtube shifter to barrel adjust adapters. Problem Solvers sells em.
When your getting a groupset just mind how the front derailleur is attached and bottom bracket compatibility.
#7133
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I have become sufficiently jealous and inspired by this thread. The CL search begins!
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
The threadless bits you see might be threadless stems clamped to adapters that fit into threaded forks. It's the easiest way to put a modern cockpit on a vintage bike with a threaded fork and headset. You can also go the 1" threadless route, but that stuff is getting harder to find and you would need to get a new fork and headset.
#7134
Polymultiplié
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Only with a with a quadruple up front, as my brifters are old 9-speeds. Who needs that many speeds anyway?
Nice bécane, BTW!
Nice bécane, BTW!
#7136
Pedalin' Erry Day
I have 5 bikes that fit this category, and only in one case did I need to "cold set" the rear triangle. That last one is a truly exceptional case because I use that frame as my main commuting bike, and my route to work is about 50% off-road trail, so I respaced the frame so that it would happily accept the 135mm MTB hubs which were part of a wheelset that was previously in use on my CX bike.
#7137
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My ‘87 Marinoni was built for a 130mm rear hub, but the ‘79 Miyata was re-spaced to that width. I had it done professionally, but I’ve also done a DIY re-space on a weird tandem. Twasn’t hard to do.
#7138
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None.
And that's a lot of bikes.
Only from 126 to 130, though, never from 120.
I've tried 120 to 126 once, and immediately switched back, for peace of mind.
For me, a 120 means 5 speeds, and the quotient is an even number, so I like it that way.
#7140
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Yeah, but that's the thing about a triple. You can leave on the race-y gearing (53/42) while adding a granny. If you want to keep the race-y look of a double, you lose the race gearing. Plus 3 is more than 2 and more is moar better.
#7141
Senior Member
Curious as to why not more riders used the Dura-Ace 130 hub with the 'mushroom' locknut?
#7142
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Just put-it-in-the-frame and ride.
You quickly develop a technique for the rear wheel that works and saves your knuckles, too.
As for the DA 130 hub, if you mean the 8-sp with the locking cog, well, that was a problem with the cassettes, too.
I also think Shimano sort of shot themselves in the foot (feet?) from the DA 6sp freewheel right up through the 8-sp STI, with compatibility issues, and that stigma lingered a while. People just avoided Dura Ace, both for the issues and the cost. Which only benefited Ultegra even more, and still does. The R8000 is selling like crazy.
You quickly develop a technique for the rear wheel that works and saves your knuckles, too.
As for the DA 130 hub, if you mean the 8-sp with the locking cog, well, that was a problem with the cassettes, too.
I also think Shimano sort of shot themselves in the foot (feet?) from the DA 6sp freewheel right up through the 8-sp STI, with compatibility issues, and that stigma lingered a while. People just avoided Dura Ace, both for the issues and the cost. Which only benefited Ultegra even more, and still does. The R8000 is selling like crazy.
#7143
HarborBandS
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Unlike Robbie, I wasn't able to squeeze a 130mm hub in the Schwinn Super Sport frame pictured in this thread back in late October. The rear stays were just too rigid. So I cold set the frame using the threaded rod method that can be seen on "RJ the Bike Guy's" YouTube channel. I feel this is more gentle and safer than the old Sheldon Brown 2x4 lumber lever method.
Last edited by HarborBandS; 02-05-19 at 11:02 AM.
#7144
HarborBandS
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I have become sufficiently jealous and inspired by this thread. The CL search begins!
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
I spent more on components for that build that I might re-use on a future bike (105 5800 components, seat post, wheel set, saddle, etc), but didn't put a lot of dough in the frame, headset, and fork. A lot of this stuff may end up on a nicer frame at some point in the future.
Last edited by HarborBandS; 02-05-19 at 11:04 AM.
#7145
aka Tom Reingold
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I have become sufficiently jealous and inspired by this thread. The CL search begins!
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset?
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset?
Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#7146
Hump, what hump?
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Another BF'er with a Rourke. Sweet.
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
#7147
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You can keep your C&V 1" threaded fork, and it replaces both the headset and the steerer tube, and can vary in length. It has a 1 1/8" steerer to fit modern stems, and comes with spacers, as well. Looks good, retains the original fork.
It comes in both silver and black, and is sold by joejack951 here on BF.
This (1999) is with the OEM 1" threaded fork, and I didn't cut the steerer because the fit is dead on this way.
This (1984) is with a replacement (Performance) 1" threaded fork from a BF member. Due to the fit of the bike, I cut the steerer to create the fit I wanted.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 02-07-19 at 12:39 PM.
#7148
Sempiternal Newb
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I put together this Black Lightning last night and took it for a ride this morning. Dura Ace 7800 shifters, 1x10 with the original Suntour Superbe Pro crank and an eBay Special chainring. Absolutely my favorite road frame so far. I did some crit practice loops in a parking lot - dang this thing can hold a line around some tight corners. It'll eventually get repainted, this thing definitely deserves some love.
#7149
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Looks fast sitting still.
I put together this Black Lightning last night and took it for a ride this morning. Dura Ace 7800 shifters, 1x10 with the original Suntour Superbe Pro crank and an eBay Special chainring. Absolutely my favorite road frame so far. I did some crit practice loops in a parking lot - dang this thing can hold a line around some tight corners. It'll eventually get repainted, this thing definitely deserves some love.
#7150
Senior Member
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I have become sufficiently jealous and inspired by this thread. The CL search begins!
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
A couple questions: Does anyone have experience buying a lone frameset and then a complete groupset? Of course it depends on the frame, but for vintage roadies what do you look for in a modern groupset? Also, I see a lot of threadless headsets in this thread. What is the general era that these start to pop up? I've never had one on a road bike but I think I'd like to for modern stem and bar combinations.
At the same time I took a frame I wanted to be good to ride, and so I selected modern components, and the only problem is I had to change the bottom bracket because I was using a triple instead of a single and I needed a longer shaft for the clearance.
The only frames I have struggled with are vintage French, because everything is different. Different threads, different diameters, and difficult to get spares.
This means that instead of replacing old parts such as a worn headset, I end up renovating and rechroming parts - very expensive.
.