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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

Old 12-23-18, 02:16 PM
  #526  
badger1
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Originally Posted by Osin83 View Post
I have a 2016 SLR2 in large that I will be converting to a 1x12 Sram GX setup with a Sunrace 10-50t cassette shortly. I want to replace the crankset and BB at the same time but am not sure which parts will be compatible with both the Frame and the rest of the drivetrain I will be purchasing.

I was thinking of going with a Sram GX crankset with 175mm arms, but there seem to be multiple sizes of BB. I most often see the Shimano UN55 recommended. I wasn't sure if it would be compatible if I went with a Sram crankset.
If you are going to use a current SRAM crankset, you must use a GXP SRAM b/b (or one of several after-market versions -- thought there's no real point in doing so). Your frame has a standard threaded b/b shell, so you'd use this: https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/p...bottom-bracket. It comes with the spacers you need to set the chainline to your shell width.

If you were going to use a Shimano crank, you'd use a Shimano b/b.
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Old 12-23-18, 06:26 PM
  #527  
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Originally Posted by Osin83 View Post
I have a 2016 SLR2 in large that I will be converting to a 1x12 Sram GX setup with a Sunrace 10-50t cassette shortly. I want to replace the crankset and BB at the same time but am not sure which parts will be compatible with both the Frame and the rest of the drivetrain I will be purchasing.

I was thinking of going with a Sram GX crankset with 175mm arms, but there seem to be multiple sizes of BB. I most often see the Shimano UN55 recommended. I wasn't sure if it would be compatible if I went with a Sram crankset.
The toughroad has a standard english threaded 68mm BB shell. I just installed a Shimano SLX crank. that cost $62 at CRC and weighs around 600g. A BB cost $13. Just add whatever chainring you want, no need to buy SRAM. you also can install the Sunrace 11-50 cassette if you want to keep the existing hub. That cassette cost around $60 at bike24. the 10-50 SRAM cassette requires an xD hub.
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Old 12-24-18, 11:36 AM
  #528  
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My Toughroad with XT 1x11 drivetrain. Its fast, comfortable, and looks awesome!
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Old 12-24-18, 01:09 PM
  #529  
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Awesome to see people still active on this thread. It's been very helpful. I do love the bike. But I can't deal with the front derailer any longer.

Last edited by Osin83; 12-24-18 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 12-24-18, 02:51 PM
  #530  
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Originally Posted by Noctilux.95 View Post
My Toughroad with XT 1x11 drivetrain. Its fast, comfortable, and looks awesome!
That does look awesome. Which front chain ring and cassette did you go with?

I was originally looking at converting to an XT 1x11 setup but wanted to try to keep the gearing a little wider and closer to the stock gearing. When I was playing with the numbers for the available Shimano 1x10 and 1x11 cassettes and chain rings I felt like I was going to have to sacrifice both at the top and bottom end. That, plus it looks like I can get the Sram parts a little cheaper.

I have a fatbike that was converted from a 2x10 to a 1x10 XT setup and a trail bike that came with a Sram X1 1x11 setup. I do like both, but I like the layout of Shimano shifter slightly better.
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Old 12-24-18, 03:14 PM
  #531  
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Its a 34T XT chainring. To be honest I would have preferred at least a 38T but this bikes gets used mostly for social rides. For that, its awesome!
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Old 02-06-19, 05:01 AM
  #532  
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Originally Posted by Noctilux.95 View Post
Its a 34T XT chainring. To be honest I would have preferred at least a 38T but this bikes gets used mostly for social rides. For that, its awesome!

your toughroad looks awesome. I would to know how you get this setup please. I got the 2016 Toughroad SLR2 that Iíd like to convert into a 1x10 or 11. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-11-19, 12:47 PM
  #533  
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Originally Posted by lestat View Post
your toughroad looks awesome. I would to know how you get this setup please. I got the 2016 Toughroad SLR2 that Iíd like to convert into a 1x10 or 11. Thanks in advance.
I just purchased all of the components to make a pretty similar build. I went Sram instead of Shimano mainly due to price. I picked up a GX 12 speed shifter, rear derailer, chain and a Sunrace 10x50 cassette as a bundle online for $235. I also picked up a lightly used Sram X1 gxp 1400 crankset w/ BB included for $70 off ebay. ​​​​​​

It's a pretty similar setup to the XT setup above. I just need to pick up a few specialty tools such as a chain whip wrench, BB tool, etc to make the swap.
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Old 04-28-19, 10:38 AM
  #534  
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The Toughroad SLR 2 is on sale everywhere here in the States for $850 down from $1,000. I currently ride a Giant Escape 2 as my daily commuter & touring bike which i love...but was thinking of nabbing the Toughroad for more adventure touring. Especially since i heard a rumor that they might be discontinued. Maybe thats what the price drop is about?
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Old 04-28-19, 12:40 PM
  #535  
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Originally Posted by BikeTall View Post
The Toughroad SLR 2 is on sale everywhere here in the States for $850 down from $1,000. I currently ride a Giant Escape 2 as my daily commuter & touring bike which i love...but was thinking of nabbing the Toughroad for more adventure touring. Especially since i heard a rumor that they might be discontinued. Maybe thats what the price drop is about?
My assumption (based on absolutely no knowledge :-) or wish is they will update it to have TA and hopefully get rid of the D-shaped seatpost. This basically is a great flat bar gravel bike and someone may want to install a short dropper etc. and hopefully they get rid of that wedge seatpost thing and use a regular clamp. I hate it every time I adjust height.

I just checked the website, $850 is the official MSRP from giant. so the LBS should be able to give an even better deal. That makes the SLR 1 an even worse deal since that is not on sale. BTW: i don't like their naming scheme where the lower number is the "better" and more expensive bike.
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Old 04-28-19, 01:02 PM
  #536  
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Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
My assumption (based on absolutely no knowledge :-) or wish is they will update it to have TA and hopefully get rid of the D-shaped seatpost. This basically is a great flat bar gravel bike and someone may want to install a short dropper etc. and hopefully they get rid of that wedge seatpost thing and use a regular clamp. I hate it every time I adjust height.

I just checked the website, $850 is the official MSRP from giant. so the LBS should be able to give an even better deal. That makes the SLR 1 an even worse deal since that is not on sale. BTW: i don't like their naming scheme where the lower number is the "better" and more expensive bike.
Kinda agree about the seatpost, but for a diff reason. I donít adjust the seatpost at all on my Giant Escape. Once i set it, thats it. And adjusting it on the toughroad may be a pain compared to a regular clamp. But turning an alan key is not so difficult.

what concerns me more about the d post is if touring in a foreign country or out in the boondocks, and your seat post gets damaged or stolen...good luck trying to find a replacement.

Also, the $850 price is not the regular price...itís the sale price. Even says ďon saleĒ on the offical Giant website. I think they are trying to clear out inventory. So maybe the rumors of it being discontinued are true, i dunno. Even my local bike shop has it for $850. Doubt i could get it for less. Itís already $150 off what it was just a few weeks ago.
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Old 04-28-19, 02:46 PM
  #537  
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Originally Posted by BikeTall View Post
Kinda agree about the seatpost, but for a diff reason. I donít adjust the seatpost at all on my Giant Escape. Once i set it, thats it. And adjusting it on the toughroad may be a pain compared to a regular clamp. But turning an alan key is not so difficult.
The difficulty isn't the allen key, it is to get that wedge loose that is a pain. Or taking the post out to re-lube etc. A clamp with allen bolt would be fine. This kind of prevents sharing the bike with family - I don't do that, but is a concern if someone comes to visit etc.

In winter I wear heavy boots and double-socks, so in winter I need to have the post a few mm higher.
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Old 04-29-19, 08:44 AM
  #538  
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Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
The difficulty isn't the allen key, it is to get that wedge loose that is a pain. Or taking the post out to re-lube etc. A clamp with allen bolt would be fine. This kind of prevents sharing the bike with family - I don't do that, but is a concern if someone comes to visit etc.
Fake news. I have the D-fuse seat post on my Giant FastRoad and none of these problems exist.

Matter of fact, it's one of the better ideas in the bike industry lately. The seat is on straight every single time. No need to try and eyeball it up with the top tube.

The likelihood of breaking the seat post or it being stolen is near zero. Not enough to justify not liking it.
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Old 08-06-19, 05:42 PM
  #539  
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I'm looking at buying a 2017 Toughroad SLR1. Can someone tell me if the cables are routed through the bottom tube or are they just covered by the plastic mud guard?
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Old 08-06-19, 09:21 PM
  #540  
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Originally Posted by sw686blue View Post
I'm looking at buying a 2017 Toughroad SLR1. Can someone tell me if the cables are routed through the bottom tube or are they just covered by the plastic mud guard?
They are covered the same way as the SLR 2
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Old 08-07-19, 05:46 AM
  #541  
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The Roam bikes have the same downtube protector (that the Toughroad uses) and I think it's the best of both worlds. The cables are protected and stay clean and dry like with most internally-routed cables, but you can also easily remove the protector to service or replace the cables without the use of special tools (often required with internal routing). Everything goes through that downtube protector: both shift cables and the hydraulic brake line.

I think it's a terrific approach to cable routing.

(That said, I have removed the splash "wings" from mine, and use just the main protector/cable tray component.)
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Old 08-12-19, 03:55 AM
  #542  
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Hello all, it’s been a while....question for those with more bike knowledge than I.

I noticed my 2016 SLR 2 rear brake is not holding pressure, I bought the brake fluid and bleed kit but it only lasts for a few days and I lose pressure again. Anyone else had a brake system failure ? And if so what did you buy to fix or replace the stocker?
Thanks!
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Old 08-12-19, 08:06 AM
  #543  
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I imagine there's a leak somewhere in your rear brake system -- or a LOT of air in the line. If you don't have an external leak, then I suspect you're not getting the system bled properly. Are you bleeding from the bottom up, pushing from the caliper end and catching fluid at the brake lever end? You may need to push a few syringe's worth of fluid through the system to get all the air out (if a lot of air is in the line).
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Old 08-13-19, 07:07 AM
  #544  
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Thanks, I think I have a leak somewhere, I just need to pinpoint where. Are these components rebuildable I wonder or do I just have to buy the whole rear brake set?
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Old 08-13-19, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by roguewave View Post
Thanks, I think I have a leak somewhere, I just need to pinpoint where. Are these components rebuildable I wonder or do I just have to buy the whole rear brake set?
It would depend on the nature of the leak. Any component can be replaced. If it's a leaky seal within the rear caliper, you could replace the rear caliper itself. Same with the brake lever -- if there's a leak in the master cylinder there, the lever could be replaced. If there's a leak at a line connection at either the brake lever or brake caliper, you could replace just the fitting (and hopefully fix the leak).

In practice, it's often easier to simply replace the entire sealed thing. Fortunately, parts are available online pretty inexpensively.

Edit: another alternative is converting the brakes to mechanical disc brakes (cable-operated). Then there's no fluid to worry about -- it's just cables and cable housings. There are pros and cons to both...potential fluid leaks definitely being one of the disadvantages to hydraulic!

Last edited by hokiefyd; 08-13-19 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 08-13-19, 08:30 AM
  #546  
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Excellent info, thank you !
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Old 08-17-19, 12:18 PM
  #547  
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This may have been answered in this thread, but I didn't readily find it.

I bought rear clip-on fenders. but like most they are made for round seatposts. I assume all are made for round seatposts. Since the Toughroad has a D-shaped bost, this doesn't really tighten and stay straight. In addition i have the carbon seatpost version, which may suffer from any rough scratches.

Anyone who has resolved this problem? Maybe a sort of segment of a circle shaped chim would make the post appear round.
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