Cannondale Topstone
#101
Senior Member
The MASON x HUNT 4 Season. I'm open to other cheap, but better-than-stock wheelsets though.
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...-wheelset.html
I wound up going with Mill City Cycles for my wheelset based on a recommendation on that thread. I'd recommend at least talking with him about your needs. He can custom build something better for just slightly more than Mason X Hunt.
https://www.facebook.com/millcitycycle/
#102
Reno/Seattle/NYC
It's not clear from that link if the Mason X Hunt's are 700C or 650b (the Topstone comes with 650b, right? Though it supports both). Anyway, check out this thread from a month or so ago when I was looking for a 650b wheelset…
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...-wheelset.html
I wound up going with Mill City Cycles for my wheelset based on a recommendation on that thread. I'd recommend at least talking with him about your needs. He can custom build something better for just slightly more than Mason X Hunt.
https://www.facebook.com/millcitycycle/
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...-wheelset.html
I wound up going with Mill City Cycles for my wheelset based on a recommendation on that thread. I'd recommend at least talking with him about your needs. He can custom build something better for just slightly more than Mason X Hunt.
https://www.facebook.com/millcitycycle/
I'm definitely going to check in with the Mill City wheel builder down the line. It's great that independent builders are trying to be competitive with the extremely inexpensive overseas operations, and stand behind the parts they use. I saw him post on RidingGravel, which is smart.
#103
Senior Member
It's not clear from that link if the Mason X Hunt's are 700C or 650b (the Topstone comes with 650b, right? Though it supports both). Anyway, check out this thread from a month or so ago when I was looking for a 650b wheelset…
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...-wheelset.html
I wound up going with Mill City Cycles for my wheelset based on a recommendation on that thread. I'd recommend at least talking with him about your needs. He can custom build something better for just slightly more than Mason X Hunt.
https://www.facebook.com/millcitycycle/
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...-wheelset.html
I wound up going with Mill City Cycles for my wheelset based on a recommendation on that thread. I'd recommend at least talking with him about your needs. He can custom build something better for just slightly more than Mason X Hunt.
https://www.facebook.com/millcitycycle/
Thanks, I'll check him out!
#104
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#105
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#106
Reno/Seattle/NYC
That is pretty heavy, though, and definitely makes me want to pursue an inexpensive set for road use, and keep the stock set for gravel and off-road entirely.
#107
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Good to know that I could drop an easy pound or two off this thing. The FSA crankset is also a beast. I haven’t seen confirmation that the frame can handle 50/34, but that’s what I would prefer for my riding (I live in miso flat Illinois after all).
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with that being said, my synapse was a 73mm BB drop and I was 700x25, so a 75mm bb drop on that 650 roadplus might not be too much of a stretch.
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with that being said, my synapse was a 73mm BB drop and I was 700x25, so a 75mm bb drop on that 650 roadplus might not be too much of a stretch.
#110
Senior Member
So I'm converting my Sora level Topstone to 1x, but the bottom bracket standards are confusing to me, and I cant find any useful information anywhere on their site. What size BB do I need to order? I didn't know that BB standards were so...vast.
#111
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If the crank you want to use doesnt have a threaded option, there are most likely aftermarket workarounds by wheels manufacturing or praxis.
Last edited by mstateglfr; 03-29-19 at 07:03 AM.
#112
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I get the feeling they specced them more for durability rather than for lightness. WTB rims with Formula hubs isn't the worst combo in the world, right?
That is pretty heavy, though, and definitely makes me want to pursue an inexpensive set for road use, and keep the stock set for gravel and off-road entirely.
That is pretty heavy, though, and definitely makes me want to pursue an inexpensive set for road use, and keep the stock set for gravel and off-road entirely.
Wow, that is heavy. I assume this includes the skewers/thru axles?
Good to know that I could drop an easy pound or two off this thing. The FSA crankset is also a beast. I haven’t seen confirmation that the frame can handle 50/34, but that’s what I would prefer for my riding (I live in miso flat Illinois after all).
Harbor - have you taken off the crank yet? If you haven't be careful. I completely destroyed mine trying to take it off last night. According to the shop it comes assembled from the factory so this is on Cannondale. Basically the NDS arm is so stuck to the spindle that the self-extracting bolt ripped the circular retainer right out of the crank arm. Now the bolt has nothing to push against to remove the arm. I'm about ready to take the sawzall to it because I can't think of any other way to get it off. I'm pretty peeved right now to say the least.
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#113
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NO this doesn't include the TA skewers, only the rim tape and nothing else.
Harbor - have you taken off the crank yet? If you haven't be careful. I completely destroyed mine trying to take it off last night. According to the shop it comes assembled from the factory so this is on Cannondale. Basically the NDS arm is so stuck to the spindle that the self-extracting bolt ripped the circular retainer right out of the crank arm. Now the bolt has nothing to push against to remove the arm. I'm about ready to take the sawzall to it because I can't think of any other way to get it off. I'm pretty peeved right now to say the least.
Harbor - have you taken off the crank yet? If you haven't be careful. I completely destroyed mine trying to take it off last night. According to the shop it comes assembled from the factory so this is on Cannondale. Basically the NDS arm is so stuck to the spindle that the self-extracting bolt ripped the circular retainer right out of the crank arm. Now the bolt has nothing to push against to remove the arm. I'm about ready to take the sawzall to it because I can't think of any other way to get it off. I'm pretty peeved right now to say the least.
#115
Senior Member
The Topstone uses a threaded bottom bracket. Its called an English threaded bottom bracket, BSA bottom bracket, or BSC bottom bracket. All mean the same thing- the bottom bracket cups thread into the frame. Its a really simple and effective way to attach a crank. So find the crank you want to use, then find the bottom bracket that matches it while being threaded and meant for a 68mm wide bottom bracket shell.
If the crank you want to use doesnt have a threaded option, there are most likely aftermarket workarounds by wheels manufacturing or praxis.
If the crank you want to use doesnt have a threaded option, there are most likely aftermarket workarounds by wheels manufacturing or praxis.
#116
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NO this doesn't include the TA skewers, only the rim tape and nothing else.
Harbor - have you taken off the crank yet? If you haven't be careful. I completely destroyed mine trying to take it off last night. According to the shop it comes assembled from the factory so this is on Cannondale. Basically the NDS arm is so stuck to the spindle that the self-extracting bolt ripped the circular retainer right out of the crank arm. Now the bolt has nothing to push against to remove the arm. I'm about ready to take the sawzall to it because I can't think of any other way to get it off. I'm pretty peeved right now to say the least.
Harbor - have you taken off the crank yet? If you haven't be careful. I completely destroyed mine trying to take it off last night. According to the shop it comes assembled from the factory so this is on Cannondale. Basically the NDS arm is so stuck to the spindle that the self-extracting bolt ripped the circular retainer right out of the crank arm. Now the bolt has nothing to push against to remove the arm. I'm about ready to take the sawzall to it because I can't think of any other way to get it off. I'm pretty peeved right now to say the least.
I imagine thats really frustrating- i dont have that exact experience, but totally get being annoyed at something that should be easy and is difficult due to how it was manufactured.
You could try riding it without the bolt- that has gotten some sq taper cranks off for me before when the threading was shot. One came off after a ride around the block. The other came off after multiple standing climbs up a short neighborhood hill(5% grade). It isnt fun the second it loosens because it gets sketchy quickly, but it worked!
#117
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Good lord- you dont waste time! Just jump right in on the changes!
I imagine thats really frustrating- i dont have that exact experience, but totally get being annoyed at something that should be easy and is difficult due to how it was manufactured.
You could try riding it without the bolt- that has gotten some sq taper cranks off for me before when the threading was shot. One came off after a ride around the block. The other came off after multiple standing climbs up a short neighborhood hill(5% grade). It isnt fun the second it loosens because it gets sketchy quickly, but it worked!
I imagine thats really frustrating- i dont have that exact experience, but totally get being annoyed at something that should be easy and is difficult due to how it was manufactured.
You could try riding it without the bolt- that has gotten some sq taper cranks off for me before when the threading was shot. One came off after a ride around the block. The other came off after multiple standing climbs up a short neighborhood hill(5% grade). It isnt fun the second it loosens because it gets sketchy quickly, but it worked!
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#118
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#119
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Right, makes sense. I just tried to hammer a flat screwdriver in between the arm and the bearing as a sort of wedge and it didn't budge at all. I'm not too hopeful for anything other than sawzall at this point.
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#120
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There are tapered chuck removal wedges that work for crank removal. Jacobs maybe?
#121
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FWIW i had an fsa gossamer crank bolt extractor fail so I'm not sure I'd totally blame cannondale. The shop has a tool similar to a square taper crank bolt extractor they were able to use to remove the crank arm
#122
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Edit: I might be going to the auto shop to get a gear puller. The sawzall isn't making much progress through the steel spindle.
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Last edited by shoota; 03-30-19 at 08:22 AM.