Clunker Challenge #5
#127
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It’s been a full week with starting a new job, and getting sick. But I’ve finally found a moment to pay heed to the clunker...
Just back from the co-op, and brought this swag arm Apex crankset home. If things go as currently planned I’ll run it without the big ring, lining the 42t up to a 5 speed in back.
Budget update:
Frame: free plus $30 credit for parts sold
Suntour rear shift lever: $3
SR Crankset: $12
=
$15 credit remaining
Just back from the co-op, and brought this swag arm Apex crankset home. If things go as currently planned I’ll run it without the big ring, lining the 42t up to a 5 speed in back.
Budget update:
Frame: free plus $30 credit for parts sold
Suntour rear shift lever: $3
SR Crankset: $12
=
$15 credit remaining
#128
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I now have a bike to get into the challenge with actually 3. I stopped by Friday to talk to a guy with about 300 bikes and a lot of other stuff out behind a auto repair shop that he owns. This guy runs a Township recycling and trash compactor site. He puts bikes , mowers and anything else he might be able to sell out behind the auto shop. Most of the bikes are department store bikes, I picked out 4 bikes that were bike shop bikes and 1 that I thought was a early 10 speed bike but turned out to be a AMF SportMaster, I will try to flip this one on Craigslist.
The ones I will use in the challenge are a Fuji Absolute, Specialized Hardrock Sport and a Motobecane That I think is a 1976 Super Mirage Mixte. The other bike is a Marukin , the frame is too tall for me so I will use parts off of it for the other 3. He charged me 25.00 for the 5 bikes. I aired up the tires and lubed the chain and derailers on the Murukin and out about a mile on it before removing any parts. All the bikes have been sitting outside for a few years the chains are all some what rusted stiff but most can be saved and all have at least one froze up cable. all 5 bikes are complete other than the HardRock that is missing the kickstand,seat and seat post. I have started working on the Motobecane and Specialized.
On the Moto I put on the front tire and tube and brake pads from the Marukin, also greased the front wheel bearings and got the rear derailer cable so that it will move and working good. I oiled the chain and got a couple stiff spots worked out. I put 2 miles on it on the first test ride. While riding it I noticed the handle bars are bent , I keep my hands on the top of the bars so I will keep them on it for now.
I want to grease the rear wheel and crank bearings and swap out the rear tire from the Murukin before riding it much. I think I have everything I need for this one. I also have worked on the Specialized, I replaced both tubes with ones that came as extra parts with a bike I bought and flipped for a profit , so no cost for the tubes. I put the Marukin kick stand on it. I dropped in a seat post that is too small so I could take a 2.6 mile test ride every thing is working good. I just need to find a seat, seat post and front brake cable, I will go back where I got the bike and see if I can find a parts bike with what I need.
The Fuji and Moto where I found them.
The Specialized where I found it.
Motobecane wheel.
Swapping front tires.
New lube.
Stopped at the body shop for a photo on the first ride.
Bent bars.
All 5 bikes when I got them home.
First ride on the Specialized.
The ones I will use in the challenge are a Fuji Absolute, Specialized Hardrock Sport and a Motobecane That I think is a 1976 Super Mirage Mixte. The other bike is a Marukin , the frame is too tall for me so I will use parts off of it for the other 3. He charged me 25.00 for the 5 bikes. I aired up the tires and lubed the chain and derailers on the Murukin and out about a mile on it before removing any parts. All the bikes have been sitting outside for a few years the chains are all some what rusted stiff but most can be saved and all have at least one froze up cable. all 5 bikes are complete other than the HardRock that is missing the kickstand,seat and seat post. I have started working on the Motobecane and Specialized.
On the Moto I put on the front tire and tube and brake pads from the Marukin, also greased the front wheel bearings and got the rear derailer cable so that it will move and working good. I oiled the chain and got a couple stiff spots worked out. I put 2 miles on it on the first test ride. While riding it I noticed the handle bars are bent , I keep my hands on the top of the bars so I will keep them on it for now.
I want to grease the rear wheel and crank bearings and swap out the rear tire from the Murukin before riding it much. I think I have everything I need for this one. I also have worked on the Specialized, I replaced both tubes with ones that came as extra parts with a bike I bought and flipped for a profit , so no cost for the tubes. I put the Marukin kick stand on it. I dropped in a seat post that is too small so I could take a 2.6 mile test ride every thing is working good. I just need to find a seat, seat post and front brake cable, I will go back where I got the bike and see if I can find a parts bike with what I need.
The Fuji and Moto where I found them.
The Specialized where I found it.
Motobecane wheel.
Swapping front tires.
New lube.
Stopped at the body shop for a photo on the first ride.
Bent bars.
All 5 bikes when I got them home.
First ride on the Specialized.
#130
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Location: Rat City, WA
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Bikes: Peugeot Course, Motobecane Super Mirage(RIP), Peugeot PKN10e Motobecane Grand Touring
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So I'm taking this challenge personally.
I've ridden more in the last two weeks than I have in the last two years.
Two years ago, after crashing my Grand Julbilee, and complaining that I wasn't healing as fast as I should.
(and it wasn't because I'm old) I was diagnosed with Multiple Myeloma. I've spent the last two years in a sedentary lifestyle in treatment and recovery. I'm finally getting back on the saddle.
This is my bike. A Trek 560. Does there seem to be a lot if Treks?
This was a dumpster dive that a friend salvaged from a house they were flipping.
It looked like it'd been outside for a long time.
The vinyl on the seat was rotted off, the chain was rusted stiff as was the cables.
This is the bike after a WD40 soak and a replacement seat.
Believe it or not, but the tires hold air.
Some upgrades.
Some new bar tape and a tool bag from a box 'o' crap a friend gave me when he moved.
Some old pedals, I don't like the ones on the bike.
Some Safety Levers I paid two dollars for.
and maybe the triple crank that was on the bench, that I paid 40 dollars for.
I've ridden more in the last two weeks than I have in the last two years.
Two years ago, after crashing my Grand Julbilee, and complaining that I wasn't healing as fast as I should.
(and it wasn't because I'm old) I was diagnosed with Multiple Myeloma. I've spent the last two years in a sedentary lifestyle in treatment and recovery. I'm finally getting back on the saddle.
This is my bike. A Trek 560. Does there seem to be a lot if Treks?
This was a dumpster dive that a friend salvaged from a house they were flipping.
It looked like it'd been outside for a long time.
The vinyl on the seat was rotted off, the chain was rusted stiff as was the cables.
This is the bike after a WD40 soak and a replacement seat.
Believe it or not, but the tires hold air.
Some upgrades.
Some new bar tape and a tool bag from a box 'o' crap a friend gave me when he moved.
Some old pedals, I don't like the ones on the bike.
Some Safety Levers I paid two dollars for.
and maybe the triple crank that was on the bench, that I paid 40 dollars for.
Last edited by Rocky Gravol; 04-17-19 at 11:30 PM.
#131
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
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These have all been older used wheels anyway, probably machine built. My understanding (and please correct if wrong) is that older machine built wheels often have issues with drive side spoke breakage at the "elbow" or whatever you call that part, where it goes into the hub flange. Something about needing stress-relieving. All my broken spokes have broken there. I have some old tall flange hubs w/ 27" steel rims that I think I'd like to lace up to some alloy rims and replace the 5 spd FW with a single speed. That would be my first wheel build project. I think tall flange hubs look cool.
I agree that large flanges are attractiver (to coin a word), and I'm glad that they might be coming back into style.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#132
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
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Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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@Oldsledz $5 a bike is quite a score. Have fun. That bicycle graveyard is both fascinating and horrifying....
#133
Day trip lover
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I'm in, I was already going to be fixing up an old giant I got for $3 (see thread).
#134
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Got a flat, riding to the tavern.
Had a tube but no pump.
Good thing I was walking distance to the LBS.
Need to add the price of a tube to the total.
Wait a minute, if I patch the old tube and put it back on...?
Had a tube but no pump.
Good thing I was walking distance to the LBS.
Need to add the price of a tube to the total.
Wait a minute, if I patch the old tube and put it back on...?
#135
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I got lucky with the weather again on a post work ride and only caught a few sprinkles. Up to 34 KM on the Trek 520 as I chip away with short rides.
Looking out on Puget Sound across from Me-Kwa-Mooks park
The 520 is holding up better than I am
Looking out on Puget Sound across from Me-Kwa-Mooks park
The 520 is holding up better than I am
#136
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I worked on my Motobecane both last night and tonight. Last night I greased the back wheel bearings and put on the tire from the Markin. Tonight I greased one side of the crank bearings, I need to barrow a large adjustable wrench before I can do the other side. I went for a 10 mile ride on the Motobecane be for working on it tonight. I adjusted the seat up some before the ride, I need to go up a little more.
One side of the crank lubed.
Greasing the back wheel and swapping back tires.
2nd ride for this bike 10 miles tonight, I stopped at the Pine river for a photo
One side of the crank lubed.
Greasing the back wheel and swapping back tires.
2nd ride for this bike 10 miles tonight, I stopped at the Pine river for a photo
#137
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From the pile in post #11 , I'm putting the Univega together. One new rear shift cable, one new tube, and one connecting pin for an HG chain. If the rules allow, I'll charge myself 1/2 price for an unraveling shift cable from the bin and 1/2 price for a 50% chain. The front wheel had a nasty hop, several alloy
nipples were rounded and I think it was missing two bearings on one side.
I had an even number total so it is all good and the nasty pitting on one cone is not noticed with that big
rubber seal on this Parallax hub. I replaced the alloy nipples with some salvaged brass jobs.
What should I charge for them? Edit: the wheel trued and tensioned is hop free and true enough.
nipples were rounded and I think it was missing two bearings on one side.
I had an even number total so it is all good and the nasty pitting on one cone is not noticed with that big
rubber seal on this Parallax hub. I replaced the alloy nipples with some salvaged brass jobs.
What should I charge for them? Edit: the wheel trued and tensioned is hop free and true enough.
Last edited by Classtime; 04-19-19 at 12:16 AM.
#138
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#139
Full Member
Wife insisted on the pink and pink shot.
#140
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I think that's it.
New shift cable: $6
Used shift cable: $3
Used 50% chain: $10
Chain pin: $3
New tube: $7
Used nipples: $?
Total: $29
This bike is pretty nice. 73-72.5 angles, the front suspension works, it is my size and even with all the steel parts, it only weighs 29 lbs. It was to become my Mountain bike for a planned epic ride next year but now it is my Clunker entry and hopefully tire money for my Alpina Team. I think I can get 100k in before it goes to a new owner.
Used shift cable: $3
Used 50% chain: $10
Chain pin: $3
New tube: $7
Used nipples: $?
Total: $29
This bike is pretty nice. 73-72.5 angles, the front suspension works, it is my size and even with all the steel parts, it only weighs 29 lbs. It was to become my Mountain bike for a planned epic ride next year but now it is my Clunker entry and hopefully tire money for my Alpina Team. I think I can get 100k in before it goes to a new owner.
#141
Full Member
3 of 9 to get rid of yet.
1st try before going with the Centurion went from this-
to this-
to this. But the paint job from ten feet will make your eyes bleed, and I found I cannot do upright bars. Stripped and hung back up.
I started with the $50 bare frame. I'll start with the "recycled salvage" stuff and post purchased material to complete it last. Over the last two years I bought 5 bikes at $10 each mostly for parts from an auto/metal salvage yard. A half-dozen donated my movers and neighbors have contributed to a stockpile (or indoor dump site?) of parts.
#142
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Picked up my entry today:
The seller bought it new around 1986, and from the looks of it, put very little mileage on this bike. Might be original 27 x 1/8" tires, which seem to be holding air. Just missing bar tape and a seat post binder bolt. It's my size, so I should be able to put 100k on it.
The seller bought it new around 1986, and from the looks of it, put very little mileage on this bike. Might be original 27 x 1/8" tires, which seem to be holding air. Just missing bar tape and a seat post binder bolt. It's my size, so I should be able to put 100k on it.
#143
Junior Member
First day working on the Azuki! It's still behind a few other bikes in the queue, but I wanted the bars and brake levers for another project, so decided to tackle the cockpit.
I planned to put a set of Sakae Super Champion bars on it, with the stem and cheapie aero levers from this frame.
The 4mm ball-end of my tri tool snapped off inside of the brake lever.
It's ok, I have other brake levers, let's get the stem out.
The stem won't come out, and I tacoed the front rim trying to use the wheel for leverage. That's fine, I have other wheels. I also have other stems. I found an origin8 in my parts bins with a nice long quill and short extension. But...
The steer tube ID of the Azuki is 21.1mm. I'd hoped to save the forged teardrop stem and polish it up for some classier project, but it looks like it's going to stay with the Azuki. I decided to sand and polish it anyway. This is something I'm trying to get better at in anticipation of building up a new personal bike this summer. I filed the forging marks and sanded with 220 grit, 600 grit, then 1500 grit wet with WD-40. Then I did some polishing with a small buffing wheel on a dremel with red compound, then meguiar's auto wax. Took about an hour, not including drying time for the wax. It turned out OK.
I realize now the focus on the pictures is slightly off, sorry :/ It's an improvement but there are a few spots I could have taken more time with the 220 grit. Didn't quite get all the file marks I left behind where the forging lines were. And of course it's got plenty of dings. The buffing wheel also left a few cloudy streaks. Maybe because I didn't use a fresh wheel, or maybe my RPMs were too low? I was working at 20,000. After polishing the stem is clearly marked .833.
For comparison, here's a hub I did a few weeks ago, sanded with 220, 600, 1500 wet with tri-flow, then meguiar's. The finish isn't as high but more uniform and I'm happier with it.
After all that, the Super Champion bars were 26mm and the stem takes 25.4. I went through my bars and fortunately these Modolos fit. I put on the butterfly shifters and some 105 levers with decent hoods, deeply pitted plastic faces, and wobbly pivots. The Modolo bars I found on top of a trash can last summer. I don't remember what bike the 105 levers came from, something long since flipped or parted out. I had decided the levers were too beat to use on a bike for sale and was keeping them around for the spare hoods.
I threw that wheel on for leverage overhauling the headset, which I decided I ought to do before installing the stem and bars. I had overhauled the headset five years ago the first time I rebuilt this bike (sold it to a friend who rode it til it broke. It sat in a yard in New Orleans for four years until coming back to me.) The grease was thick and gunky but still there, barely, and the overhaul went smoothly. Along the way I checked the brake reach for my planned 700c conversion.
Looks like I'll be making some drop bolts!
I planned to put a set of Sakae Super Champion bars on it, with the stem and cheapie aero levers from this frame.
The 4mm ball-end of my tri tool snapped off inside of the brake lever.
It's ok, I have other brake levers, let's get the stem out.
The stem won't come out, and I tacoed the front rim trying to use the wheel for leverage. That's fine, I have other wheels. I also have other stems. I found an origin8 in my parts bins with a nice long quill and short extension. But...
The steer tube ID of the Azuki is 21.1mm. I'd hoped to save the forged teardrop stem and polish it up for some classier project, but it looks like it's going to stay with the Azuki. I decided to sand and polish it anyway. This is something I'm trying to get better at in anticipation of building up a new personal bike this summer. I filed the forging marks and sanded with 220 grit, 600 grit, then 1500 grit wet with WD-40. Then I did some polishing with a small buffing wheel on a dremel with red compound, then meguiar's auto wax. Took about an hour, not including drying time for the wax. It turned out OK.
I realize now the focus on the pictures is slightly off, sorry :/ It's an improvement but there are a few spots I could have taken more time with the 220 grit. Didn't quite get all the file marks I left behind where the forging lines were. And of course it's got plenty of dings. The buffing wheel also left a few cloudy streaks. Maybe because I didn't use a fresh wheel, or maybe my RPMs were too low? I was working at 20,000. After polishing the stem is clearly marked .833.
For comparison, here's a hub I did a few weeks ago, sanded with 220, 600, 1500 wet with tri-flow, then meguiar's. The finish isn't as high but more uniform and I'm happier with it.
After all that, the Super Champion bars were 26mm and the stem takes 25.4. I went through my bars and fortunately these Modolos fit. I put on the butterfly shifters and some 105 levers with decent hoods, deeply pitted plastic faces, and wobbly pivots. The Modolo bars I found on top of a trash can last summer. I don't remember what bike the 105 levers came from, something long since flipped or parted out. I had decided the levers were too beat to use on a bike for sale and was keeping them around for the spare hoods.
I threw that wheel on for leverage overhauling the headset, which I decided I ought to do before installing the stem and bars. I had overhauled the headset five years ago the first time I rebuilt this bike (sold it to a friend who rode it til it broke. It sat in a yard in New Orleans for four years until coming back to me.) The grease was thick and gunky but still there, barely, and the overhaul went smoothly. Along the way I checked the brake reach for my planned 700c conversion.
Looks like I'll be making some drop bolts!
#144
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Well, might as well throw my hat in here.
Found this good old Stumpy for $95 CAD ($70.90 USD). It's in good condition, shifts great, hubs roll smooth, cranks feel solid. I just need to either find my allen keys to adjust the brakes, or buy new ones.
About the only issue the bike seems to have, is that the headset has some play in it, and the front brakes are horribly adjusted.
So, the bike not be that much of a clunker, but I make up for it.
I haven't posted around here for closing in on 9 years, and it has been probably 3+ years since I have ridden a bike period, and more like 7-8 years since I was in any sort of shape. Have an extra 40ish lbs of weight to handicap me.
So, 1.27 km in, I will be going for this.
Found this good old Stumpy for $95 CAD ($70.90 USD). It's in good condition, shifts great, hubs roll smooth, cranks feel solid. I just need to either find my allen keys to adjust the brakes, or buy new ones.
About the only issue the bike seems to have, is that the headset has some play in it, and the front brakes are horribly adjusted.
So, the bike not be that much of a clunker, but I make up for it.
I haven't posted around here for closing in on 9 years, and it has been probably 3+ years since I have ridden a bike period, and more like 7-8 years since I was in any sort of shape. Have an extra 40ish lbs of weight to handicap me.
So, 1.27 km in, I will be going for this.
#145
Virgo
Schwinn Voyageur - Day 9 - $65 - 62 miles (100k)
Well, I accidentally completed the challenge today, rode it to the bike shop and back to get parts for my daily commuter and when I got home noticed the odo was exactly 62 miles more than when I started tracking for the challenge, 1911 from 1849, it was showing 1845 when I bought it. I still haven’t overhauled the wheels. I was talking to the owner of the bike shop about going single speed on this one if I keep it for commuting. Seems wildly inappropriate for a touring bike but I think it would be cool.
I did perform one additional swap, replaced the nasty stock brake levers with some other nasty aero levers from the parts bin that I’d value at $10 on a good day, so I’ll bump my total to $65.
I’m a little sad that I finished, but still considering my earlier idea to raise the bar and keep it on the road for the rest of the 100 days, I dunno ...
I did perform one additional swap, replaced the nasty stock brake levers with some other nasty aero levers from the parts bin that I’d value at $10 on a good day, so I’ll bump my total to $65.
I’m a little sad that I finished, but still considering my earlier idea to raise the bar and keep it on the road for the rest of the 100 days, I dunno ...
#146
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I haven't posted around here for closing in on 9 years, and it has been probably 3+ years since I have ridden a bike period, and more like 7-8 years since I was in any sort of shape. Have an extra 40ish lbs of weight to handicap me.
So, 1.27 km in, I will be going for this.
So, 1.27 km in, I will be going for this.
#147
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
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Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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@Oscuro some people would spend $70 for that bull-moose bar stem combo
#148
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....I had no idea. Interesting. Thank you for the tip, as I have considered going drop bar, or something else.
#149
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@Oscuro some people would spend $70 for that bull-moose bar stem combo
#150
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
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Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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