SRAM Red Etap reliability - cracked battery
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SRAM Red Etap reliability - cracked battery
I have a Sram Red Etap on my better bike - about 6 months old. Today, when I took out the batteries to recharge them I see that one of them is chipped / cracked.
Makes me think it was a mistake to go with electronic shifting since I'm not racing anyway...
Sent Sram an email -let's see how good their customer support is. Now - I'm taking my older bike (Sram Red 22 mechanical) for a ride Nothing like a mechanical groupset.
Chipped battery
A different view
Makes me think it was a mistake to go with electronic shifting since I'm not racing anyway...
Sent Sram an email -let's see how good their customer support is. Now - I'm taking my older bike (Sram Red 22 mechanical) for a ride Nothing like a mechanical groupset.
Chipped battery
A different view
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22,000 miles and finally decided to replace the batteries since they needed to be charged after a month.
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Thank you guys - reassuring to hear this must have been some accident. I love the Etap otherwise. Let's see what Sram says. I sent them a picture.
After a bit more searching it looks like this is a somewhat common problem - due to the design or the battery's plastic quality. And if I am not mistaking I have to go through the LBS who sold me the battery - which is not quite local....
After a bit more searching it looks like this is a somewhat common problem - due to the design or the battery's plastic quality. And if I am not mistaking I have to go through the LBS who sold me the battery - which is not quite local....
Last edited by Boerd; 05-11-19 at 04:44 PM.
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Stuff breaks. Even mechanical stuff.
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Just a thought!
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You must be psychic. I ordered one but couldn't find 1 or 2 days delivery on Amazon... It arrives Thursday. 1st world drama! And it's 42$ - kind of pricey if you ask me.
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I do not carry a spare. The LEDs indicate battery level. Green is good, red is below 25% and flashing red is below15%. Then since they are the same you can always swap them since the front is used a lot less than the rear.
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I've seen lots of reports of this on the 'net FWIW.
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I know - it's either a design problem or a battery QA problem... Which is a shame given one battery is 42$ and the Etap isn't cheap either. These days it is all about "good enough".
The problem is I bike 3-4 times a week on Mt Diablo which has less than ideal roads hence the battery will be tested.
The problem is I bike 3-4 times a week on Mt Diablo which has less than ideal roads hence the battery will be tested.
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I was getting about 800 miles per charge and it went down to about half.
I do not carry a spare. The LEDs indicate battery level. Green is good, red is below 25% and flashing red is below15%. Then since they are the same you can always swap them since the front is used a lot less than the rear.
I do not carry a spare. The LEDs indicate battery level. Green is good, red is below 25% and flashing red is below15%. Then since they are the same you can always swap them since the front is used a lot less than the rear.
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https://forums.roadbikereview.com/sr...ur-361263.html
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...c.php?t=145432
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I did a quick search and did see that his is or was a thing, especially in the early years.
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Anyway - the batteries looks cheap - I'd expect a bit of metal at the pressure points and the joint - especially for 42$. A bit too much greed maybe?
Last edited by Boerd; 05-12-19 at 04:49 PM.
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That's a good number of hours assuming 15 mph which would be around 50 hours. I've never been able to get that, even when new. I remove my batteries when the bike is in the car and reinstall them when ready to ride. Since I don't really pay attention, my front and rear batteries usually have the same hours on them. I've only had a battery go dead once but when I switched from front to rear, it went dead three miles later.
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What is special about the riding that you do? Why do you imagine that your riding would be responsible for breaking the battery casing?
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That's just speculation on your part. Speculation that doesn't explain how the "poor design" has worked just fine for so many other folks.
What is special about the riding that you do? Why do you imagine that your riding would be responsible for breaking the battery casing?
What is special about the riding that you do? Why do you imagine that your riding would be responsible for breaking the battery casing?
Why is it so hard to imagine that it works for many / most but there is still a problem? Poor design doesn't mean a design that never works. It can be just "Good enough for many / most" yet problematic.
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First you should remove the batteries when transporting the bike. There is an accelerometer that activates the batteries so they will be active. The real draw when when they are being used so the FD is used a lot less than the RD. This means the RD battery will run down quicker. When the RD battery goes solid red, the FD battery will still be green. I swap them and when both are solid red I recharge both.
Also, mine are on a recumbent so I can't see the lights while riding. Can riders on regular bikes see the lights when shifting?
Anyway, I haven't run a full discharge test in a long time to see how many hours I'm getting. I'll do that soon just for fun.
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Last edited by Trsnrtr; 05-12-19 at 06:51 PM.
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That's just speculation on your part. Speculation that doesn't explain how the "poor design" has worked just fine for so many other folks.
What is special about the riding that you do? Why do you imagine that your riding would be responsible for breaking the battery casing?
What is special about the riding that you do? Why do you imagine that your riding would be responsible for breaking the battery casing?
Last edited by Boerd; 05-12-19 at 06:53 PM.
#24
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That's just speculation on your part. Speculation that doesn't explain how the "poor design" has worked just fine for so many other folks.
What is special about the riding that you do? Why do you imagine that your riding would be responsible for breaking the battery casing?
What is special about the riding that you do? Why do you imagine that your riding would be responsible for breaking the battery casing?
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I was just looking at a SRAM eTap overview video and it makes a point of holding the sides of the battery while flipping the retaining lever. They warn of breaking the battery else wise. I guess I'll have to start doing that because I just flip the lever and let the battery fall into my hand generally.
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