carlos danger

I weighed my bike today. 8,3kg. I would have guessed between 9 and 9,5.
I reckon for only an additional 5 grand or so i could get it down to uci illegal weight.
But then I would have to swap out good metal parts for disposable plastic. And i dont like plastic.

Reeses

Are you going carbon belt drive?

chicagogal

It is the Lynskey that really makes me cry. Is that the helix? It is a beautiful bike... or should be, anyway. That paint scheme? Those handlebars? I hope your dad loves that bike and converts it back into the respectable machine it was built to be.

carlos danger

no its a pro cross 2018

dont worry the paint comes off really easy. Its ti and ti needs to be etched with a special etchant and then primed with a special primer or the paint will simply rub off. my paint is rattlecan and rubs off just from looking at it.

the handlebar is really good. looks off for the purists but it replicates the nitto rm014 dirt drop pretty well. i have about 10 handelbars. and the up side down nitto north road and the dirt drop are the best ones. they are most likely the best bars in existence. for me.

the good thing with the north roads is that they take mtb levers and shifters. and the dirt drops dont. and i had bb7s in mtb variety left. none bb7 roads. so i put the mtbs on there and then i had to use the mtb levers and therefore mtb diiameter bars. easy as that.

I know many people think this looks weird and have a feeling it performs/feels weird too. But make no mistake. this is just as good as any road bar in the drops. i just raised the drops 2 inches up kinda. technically speaking.
Dont belive me? well do it yourself then. and you willl end up where i did. Remember i have 10 different handlebars. and many stems. and have tried them all. so i'm not puling this S out of my azz. i tried it and ended up on it.

The lynskey has had 2 other bars/stems too. they were no good though. for power transfer.

carlos danger

No not before shaft.

chicagogal

Haha. Thanks. To each his own. But I must say, the pro cross 2018 is a lovely bike... so glad that the paint can come off :-)

Has your dad ridden it much? Does he love it? That is a great gift for him.

carlos danger

My dad has not recieved it yet. he has not answered his phone for 2 months now
its not really uncommon for him. but yeah it it what it is. i'm used to it though. My dad is the only one i know that is worse at "answering the phone" than I am. its intentional for sure.

nuxx 

That is a trippy/unique and very personal build - really appreciate the nonconformist attitude in building the bike for yourself, and not to satisfy opinionated forumites. That gearshift placement is glorious!

shelbyfv

nuxx 

^

carlos danger

Thank you nuxx. This was my fourth thoroughly thought out and purpose driven build (the purpose is dry commuting). Its my most evolved one actually. the ergonomics is 100% perfect and everything works 100% and its very practical/fast to swap out stuff/service if needed. Everything comes off as whole "modules", its very easy/fast to try a different brake/RD and so on. And then swap back to the old one... its basically 3-4 zipties and then its off. and then 3-4 new ones and then its on again no matter what.

I knew from the start this build would not really appeal to real roadies. hehehe. But for me its the ultimate commuter italian lugged steel build (for my region/locale). So I built it no regrets there. its a seriously bad ass ride. fast and comfortable.

You know just as well as me how this works. You see a "need" and you "fill the hole". Done! You get it done your way...

Regarding the shifter. I use one of those v-brake bungs, from jagwire. it has one end that is alu, and that end will break off easily, its maybe 1cm long, so easy to break that you basically cant run a setup like this before it separating from the stainless bent tube with regular use actually.

So what you have to do is to simply bend it off/remove it from the stainless bent tube from the start! Tear the alu part off. Its very easy to bend it off the SS tube. Then when you only have the SS tube you simply put one of those cable-housing ends (that you get in all cable kits) as a termination for the tube (into the shifter) and then bam, then its 100% solid as a rock and will never ever break.

---------------

I have a new project going. Maybe now on friday i will recieve a De Rosa Nouvo classico frame. that i will build up over the weekend if possible. It has chromed lugs
This will be a budget build. and effectively my dry commuter beater

I will post it in this thread.

Last ride 76 

+1

Not what I would do, but as long as the frame isn't "drewed", heck man, go for it! Ride it. Futz with it some more, and keep riding. Cool.
( On a different note... Don't try to defend/ explain the mess in your room... Either clean it up, hide it, or take the grief for it. Trying to justify it ain't gonna change anyone's mind)

carlos danger

I dont try to defend it. or justify it. I simply stopped giving a F about 2 years ago. about 1 month after i moved in. when i realized how it would work here.

work/sleep/eat/shxt. running the hamster wheel like every one else.

carlos danger

Hello fellow cyclists.

I have today recieved a frame apparatus that is made by hand in the land of italia.

its black in color. actually matte black. and the decals are clear-coated. its only the clearcoat that is matte obviously. Its not super matte. its about 50% matte if you compare to paint that you would paint your living room with. and about 7% is the mattest you can make it.

When i saw this frame i thought about that rock band mockumentary. "how much more black than that can it get"?? none more black!! heheh and its kinda like that. none more black!

so i decieded to head out into the garden and shoot some pix.

this is the last time its pretty!! because from tomorrow it will be my beater, dry weather commuter. My premium one will be the colnago still. I actually built up some wheels for the nago, and the lowly derosa will inherit the colnago shimano rs010 wheels (these are actually very good wheels, even though they are only 120€, you should check tension and adjust yourself though as always).

Yeah well the parts for this one is sub 1k€ total.
And the frame/fork was 1300€. its a 2016-2018 or so 55cm. NOS. coming from one of the derosa showrooms. Never built up.

One thing though. the paint seems to be like 100 times more durable than the colnago paint. this paint seems to be real 2 component hardening urathane/poly paint and it behaved like that when scraping it off the bb shell. the colnago seems to be jelly. pretty jelly though.

carlos danger

steel is darned real and it also weighs mass. But somehow i have a feeling it will not make me any faster nor slower than the nago nor faster or slower than any plastic bike.

seau grateau

Nice frame! Are you gonna do something weird with it?

carlos danger

yes

carlos danger

seau yeah that was smug by me smug as bug in a jug!

But basically it will the be the same config as the colnago. but with cheaper and heavier parts (somehow you can't buy DA/ultegra 5 bolt 130mm stuff anymore).

Maybe i should explain my build philosophy here.

I dont need 2 hand positions, like on a road bar, to me its just 2 crappy compromises. i want 1 ultimate one. thats it.
so all bike i have built in these last 10 years they have 1 ultimate position for that bike/frame. only 1. and its built around that.

my 26 i set up for the drops only.
lunskey1 got nitto dirt drops
lynskey2 got upside down nitto north roads
colnago got TT base bars.

but all these basically position my hands in the same area at the same angle, with controls in a fairly similar position. But hey why the hell have drop bars at all when i only need the TT bars for the position??

so yeah this one will be TT bar'ed like the colnago. its just the best solution i have tired, so i do it again.

i like to try out new stuff. But i had the lynskey pro cross as test bed for everything. you dont wanna know how much cables i went through trying everything out on that bike. lol. but its ok. since i found out what was good for me with it. My dad now has it, and as far as i know he crashed it into a ditch, but is alive. that poor paint...

carlos danger

Hey guys. So I was just out riding along, minding my own business, going to the store, and then, BAM!, my penis somehow got entangled in the rear derailleur. Then i kinda dropped my phone and somehow it ended up in the RD?? What the heck. My new Huawei Do yo think its covered under warranty?

looks like warranty to me at least!

mstateglfr 

Thats yours, huh? Wow, you are kinda famous on the internet since this pic went around last summer. Oh wait- it just happened while out riding.
Well thats really crazy- because someone else last summer had the exact same issue with the exact same bike and phone! Freaky coincidence!***

MoAlpha

Dude, trim that cable!

maartendc

Is that the De Rosa frame you spray-painted puke green?

carlos danger

yes this was a joke obviously. my penis did not get entangled in my RD, on my puke green bike. nor did my phone get stuck in the RD. lol.

I simply made all that up. It was kinda obvious. I found the thread on rbr, lughed my butt off and simply posted the pic here with one of usual BS JRA stories to go with it.

carlos danger

yeah then i towed it behind a jeep through a quarry for an hour to make the patina look authentic.

carlos danger

Allright ending the bike comedy (that phone pic though was very very funny).

I have managed to assemble the fork in the frame. And also the bb cups into the frame.
Then i lubed the inside of the frame with some industrial chain/wire spray. Since its steel and rusts. And it rusts from condensation too!

I now understand why threaded forks went away. First and foremost you need to "reem" the headtube (i simply taped sand paper on a rubber small drum sander thingy), and that would have been it pretty much for most aheadset systems, (then of course cutting the steerer to length.)

But now the fork had a cut notch in the rear that they made after the steerer was threaded, and that really messed with the threads. so i had to pull out all my needle files and go over that interface, 8cm or so worth of threads. Then the steerer needed to be cut to length very precisely since the top of the headset will rest on the top of the fork. VERY little wiggle room in length here.

I got a Record headset for it. Thinking this would be good. I mean its pretty light and all. they have steel races (cups and cones) pressed into the alu cups.
I degreased the caged ball bearings with different solvents until clean room clean. Then filled them with molykote.

I noticed a few things. The actual bearing races are not mirror polished like for example 15€ shimano hubs cups/cones are. but instead i could see faint grind marks, sure its not gonna be a problem but still, this is the most premium threaded headset i could find!

Then when assembled i found out its not really that smooth spinning. Even after all that work. I have had some cheapy ritcheys and cane creek caged ball ones that were much smoother than this, and those cost 10€, not 50! not to mention the headsets of my other bikes, the colnago branded one, cane creek s8/40/10, they were all moch smoother than this i can tell you. I now feel should have gotten the 7€ ritchey for it from crc, probably would have been better.

The headset itself also felt very flimsy and undurable. I'm thinking this will be the first headset ever i will have to periodically check and adjust just because its weak/flimsy.
ymmv i guess. I guess i learned something.