$1270 to save 1/2 lb at the rim?
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Would you spend $1270 for new wheels to save 223 grams (7.87 oz) if all the weight savings were at the rim?
The new wheels would be exactly the same as the existing wheels except for much lighter rims. Assume for now that the hubs, spokes, nipples, tires and tubes are already as light as they can go.
The bike flies and I've no need for new wheels. This would be a luxury purchase.
Wheels would be built by ProWheelBuilder and come with 2 year warranty and lifetime 25% off crash replacement. I could probably sell the existing wheels for a couple hundred.
This is on a sub 16 lb bike.
-Tim-
The new wheels would be exactly the same as the existing wheels except for much lighter rims. Assume for now that the hubs, spokes, nipples, tires and tubes are already as light as they can go.
The bike flies and I've no need for new wheels. This would be a luxury purchase.
Wheels would be built by ProWheelBuilder and come with 2 year warranty and lifetime 25% off crash replacement. I could probably sell the existing wheels for a couple hundred.
This is on a sub 16 lb bike.
-Tim-
#27
Senior Member
Ah, ah, life's conundrum yet again. I've definitely "justified" spending $$ on all kinds of bike parts/pieces to save a few grams here and there. Sometimes even fairly substantial amounts.
No doubt I'd not spend $$ on wheels that weigh more than my current wheels do, even if the bling factor was huge. so, the weight savings along with some amount of new/bling/cool factor generally tips the scale in the "buy'em now, don't wait" direction for me.
If you've got the dough, buy'em now, don't wait!
No doubt I'd not spend $$ on wheels that weigh more than my current wheels do, even if the bling factor was huge. so, the weight savings along with some amount of new/bling/cool factor generally tips the scale in the "buy'em now, don't wait" direction for me.
If you've got the dough, buy'em now, don't wait!
#28
Senior Member
Shallow. Boyd 28 clinchers.
They would replace H+Son Archetypes.
The bike has an Enve flat top aero bar if only for comfort and looks, and I supposed the Enve 2.0 fork is aero enough but tubes are round and the bike isn't designed with aero in mind. Increasing aerodynamics would not be a benefit. All the benefit would be weight. I'm not a particularly powerful rider.
If anyone knows of a lighter/cheaper rim brake carbon clincher then I'm all ears.
-Tim-
They would replace H+Son Archetypes.
The bike has an Enve flat top aero bar if only for comfort and looks, and I supposed the Enve 2.0 fork is aero enough but tubes are round and the bike isn't designed with aero in mind. Increasing aerodynamics would not be a benefit. All the benefit would be weight. I'm not a particularly powerful rider.
If anyone knows of a lighter/cheaper rim brake carbon clincher then I'm all ears.
-Tim-
If you wanted to save money the Altamont Ceramics are the finest aluminum clinchers i've ever had with fantastic braking and feels with the Swisstop BXP Blue pads.. I bought a lightly used second hand custom built with I9 Torch hubs for about $880, that most likely cost the OG owner close to what you are paying due to the hub cost.
The set was about 1470g and ran them tubeless. I love their balance of strength and width for a box rim and knowing despite it being light it is also a strong wheel suitable for CX. I'm a 190lb rider.
I'll leave a few pron pics of them.
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Depends? Are they red?
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https://www.lightbicycle.com/Carbon-...g-surface.html
For the same weight, you can also get 35mm deep hoops.
https://www.lightbicycle.com/carbon-...g-surface.html
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One could argue that once the heavier rotational wheel gets up to speed, it will roll farther down the road than the wheel with less rotational mass. Cue the engineers, scientists, etc. so they can argue about it until the thread gets closed. What you did not include in your opening statement is what type of fashionable kit you will be wearing when you ride down the road on those $1270 1/2lb weight saving wheels. You're slipping.
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#34
Jedi Master
Since you've already reached the point of extreme diminishing marginal returns, you're going to have to spend a lot to get a little. I would do it if having a light bike was important to me, but my wabi wheels are good enough for my FGJRA.
#35
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One could argue that once the heavier rotational wheel gets up to speed, it will roll farther down the road than the wheel with less rotational mass. Cue the engineers, scientists, etc. so they can argue about it until the thread gets closed. What you did not include in your opening statement is what type of fashionable kit you will be wearing when you ride down the road on those $1270 1/2lb weight saving wheels. You're slipping.
My focus is on rotational weight at the rim. I'm sorry I didn't make that clear.
I have the Wabi Sub-15's on my Bianchi. I should slap them on the Rodriguez and see how it rides.
A bike forums classic...
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...ll-me-how.html
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 06-12-19 at 03:41 PM.
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From what I read - tubular will get you the greatest weight reduction at the rim.
That's the way to go at some price points.
How hard core racy is this bike?
A vote for tubulars on the S3 Rodriquez.
(tubular tape is super easy - home install or on-road replacement)
I've gone aluminum tubulars for my vintage (and newer) bikes and been happy with perkier acceleration on each.
That's the way to go at some price points.
How hard core racy is this bike?
A vote for tubulars on the S3 Rodriquez.
(tubular tape is super easy - home install or on-road replacement)
I've gone aluminum tubulars for my vintage (and newer) bikes and been happy with perkier acceleration on each.
__________________
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Last edited by Wildwood; 06-12-19 at 04:30 PM.
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Also, I need to start carrying a water bottle again.
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#41
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Speaking of classic threads, someone has to say it. If you are trying to save weight, you need to go with MEILENSTEIN LIGHTWEIGHT WHEELS or go home. Simple enough.
#43
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I'm 5' 10" and went from 198 lb to 170 lb last winter, so I feel like I'm good.
Thanks. I'm going to email them but here is the rub...
The bike is fixed gear and the hubs use 15 mm track nuts. To be clear, it isn't a track bike and will never be ridden on the velodrome. It is used exclusively for road riding.
As a general rule, track hubs are not light but the ones on the bike now are about the lightest available - 176 g front/224 g rear - and go for about $150/pair. ProWheelBuilder would build the wheels around them with whatever rim, spoke and nipple I choose.
The front could use a traditional road quick release but I'm not going to save much weight and it would drive up cost. I want matchy-matchy hubs for the sake of pride anyway.
If a company like Light would build a wheelset around my hubs with their rims at $700 and they came close to 1300 grams then I'd go for it.
-Tim-
Thanks. I'm going to email them but here is the rub...
The bike is fixed gear and the hubs use 15 mm track nuts. To be clear, it isn't a track bike and will never be ridden on the velodrome. It is used exclusively for road riding.
As a general rule, track hubs are not light but the ones on the bike now are about the lightest available - 176 g front/224 g rear - and go for about $150/pair. ProWheelBuilder would build the wheels around them with whatever rim, spoke and nipple I choose.
The front could use a traditional road quick release but I'm not going to save much weight and it would drive up cost. I want matchy-matchy hubs for the sake of pride anyway.
If a company like Light would build a wheelset around my hubs with their rims at $700 and they came close to 1300 grams then I'd go for it.
-Tim-
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The price seems entirely reasonable for what you are after; it's something fairly unique and custom. There are just not a lot of pure fixed gear road bikes that are not also used for urban riding tasks (where shaving grams is less of an option).
#48
Farmer tan
#49
Farmer tan
Another vote for tubulars, because weigh, ride quality, price.
Just sell a Rapha bib to finance it.
Just sell a Rapha bib to finance it.
#50
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Yes, if FTP > 3.5 watts/kg
3.5 -- 2.8 : yes or no.
No, if FTP < 2.8 watts/kg, the money could be better spent improving oneself.
If you don't have a power meter to measure FTP yet, the money should definitely be spent to procure a power meter first.
3.5 -- 2.8 : yes or no.
No, if FTP < 2.8 watts/kg, the money could be better spent improving oneself.
If you don't have a power meter to measure FTP yet, the money should definitely be spent to procure a power meter first.