Gaining 4mph Without Fitness
08-05-19, 06:17 PM
#176
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08-05-19, 06:56 PM
#177
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I see a lot of people asking how to make their bike faster and everyone’s response is always “get more fit” or “be more aero.” That’s great and all, but my fitness hasn’t changed much but I’m 4mph faster on average. How? Hint: It will take $ but can be done.
Background: Got into road cycling 3 years ago for a charity ride, bought a cheap aluminum Motobecane junker with aluminum spd pedals. Felt like it weighed 30 pounds. Averaged 15mph on a good day and 16mph if I really pushed it.
After my wife finished several minutes ahead of me on her ultralight S-Works I decided that would never happen again.
Step 1: Get a carbon bike. Any carbon bike will add 1mph simply because it is lighter and has better power transfer.
So you can gain ~1mph just by getting any carbon bike.
Step 2. Don’t get just any carbon bike. Get a NICE carbon bike. Lightweight. Aero. Great components. Carbon wheels. These will run you $5-10k. I got the Canyon Endurace SLX 9 with SRAM Red eTap. Definitely wasn’t cheap, but added another 1mph because of further weight reduction and better components.
So far I’ve added ~2mph simply by spending money. This is a much better solution than getting fit.
Step 3: Replace anything that isn’t carbon with carbon. This includes seatpost, stem, bar, saddle, cranks and pedals. I only had to change a few things as the Canyon was already set up pretty well. I got the Specialized Power Pro carbon saddle with titanium rails (Canyon setup wouldn’t take larger carbon rails), carbon cages, and Dura Ace pedals. Again, the carbon not only reduces weight but also reduces vibration and increases rider comfort and power transfer.
Step 4: Get lightweight carbon shoes with SPD-SL red clips (0 degrees of motion) that fit correctly and have them set up professionally to ensure maximum power transfer (carbon on carbon) and no knee injuries.
Steps 3 and 4 added about 0.5mph.
Step 5: Get a complete proper fitting. You may want to do this before buying new bars, stem, etc. I had to get a new Canyon aerobar to fit me properly. Also make sure you have the right saddle width. The right setup will increase your power transfer and reduce injury.
Step 6: Improve your technique (independent of fitness). Get a power meter, cadence meter and speed meter and integrate with Garmin Edge. Read articles about technique and use these tools to improve.
Steps 5 and 6 add another 0.5mph. We’re now at a 3mph improvement.
Step 7: Get fast tires. Specifically, focus on rolling resistance but also factor in puncture resistance so that you have confidence at speed. Tubes or tubeless, your choice. I like tubes and run 50g Conti butyl tubes with Conti 5000 tires. Can’t go wrong. The Specialized Cotton Turbo is also a good choice. Go wide (25-28) and keep at the ideal psi (plenty of articles out there based on your tire).
Step 8: Adjust your brake levers. You’ll have a lot more confidence during high-speed descents if the levers are at your fingertips. If you can’t figure it out take it to your LBS.
Step 9: Keep your bike clean, especially the chain and gears. Plenty of good stuff out there, I like Park Tool’s cleaner. Clean chains = fast bike.
Step 10: Get aero. Wind resistance is your biggest enemy at speed. In addition to getting an aero bike, get form-fitting jerseys and shorts (I’m a huge fan of Pearl Pros), a light aero helmet, aero gloves, and socks. Learn to get in an aero position during sprints/descents. If you really want to get crazy and shave your body, go for it. Get rid of that bulky seat post bag and only carry what you need. I use Specialized’s integrated SWAT Road Bandit tube holder. Saves weight and lost energy through things jostling. Get light bottles and only carry them if you need them.
Boom, there you have it. Those last items add 1mph for a total gain of 4mph. I was averaging 19mph easy and 20mph when I really got after it. And that is solo. Plus, it made me love riding so much that I’ve also improved fitness and have added an extra 1-2mph. Now I blow by the clowns in the peloton with their dumb time trial bikes and helmets and matching jerseys. Yeah, my endurance bike just spit gravel in your face. My wife won’t even ride with me anymore because I’m miles ahead in a matter of minutes.
So there you have it. 3 years ago I’m a 40 year old golfer that thought biking was for losers, now I’m at the front of grand fondos.
Can’t afford all this stuff? Not my problem. Stop wasting time doing nonsense and do something with yourself so that you can buy nice things on a whim. Or just work on your fitness I guess.
Background: Got into road cycling 3 years ago for a charity ride, bought a cheap aluminum Motobecane junker with aluminum spd pedals. Felt like it weighed 30 pounds. Averaged 15mph on a good day and 16mph if I really pushed it.
After my wife finished several minutes ahead of me on her ultralight S-Works I decided that would never happen again.
Step 1: Get a carbon bike. Any carbon bike will add 1mph simply because it is lighter and has better power transfer.
So you can gain ~1mph just by getting any carbon bike.
Step 2. Don’t get just any carbon bike. Get a NICE carbon bike. Lightweight. Aero. Great components. Carbon wheels. These will run you $5-10k. I got the Canyon Endurace SLX 9 with SRAM Red eTap. Definitely wasn’t cheap, but added another 1mph because of further weight reduction and better components.
So far I’ve added ~2mph simply by spending money. This is a much better solution than getting fit.
Step 3: Replace anything that isn’t carbon with carbon. This includes seatpost, stem, bar, saddle, cranks and pedals. I only had to change a few things as the Canyon was already set up pretty well. I got the Specialized Power Pro carbon saddle with titanium rails (Canyon setup wouldn’t take larger carbon rails), carbon cages, and Dura Ace pedals. Again, the carbon not only reduces weight but also reduces vibration and increases rider comfort and power transfer.
Step 4: Get lightweight carbon shoes with SPD-SL red clips (0 degrees of motion) that fit correctly and have them set up professionally to ensure maximum power transfer (carbon on carbon) and no knee injuries.
Steps 3 and 4 added about 0.5mph.
Step 5: Get a complete proper fitting. You may want to do this before buying new bars, stem, etc. I had to get a new Canyon aerobar to fit me properly. Also make sure you have the right saddle width. The right setup will increase your power transfer and reduce injury.
Step 6: Improve your technique (independent of fitness). Get a power meter, cadence meter and speed meter and integrate with Garmin Edge. Read articles about technique and use these tools to improve.
Steps 5 and 6 add another 0.5mph. We’re now at a 3mph improvement.
Step 7: Get fast tires. Specifically, focus on rolling resistance but also factor in puncture resistance so that you have confidence at speed. Tubes or tubeless, your choice. I like tubes and run 50g Conti butyl tubes with Conti 5000 tires. Can’t go wrong. The Specialized Cotton Turbo is also a good choice. Go wide (25-28) and keep at the ideal psi (plenty of articles out there based on your tire).
Step 8: Adjust your brake levers. You’ll have a lot more confidence during high-speed descents if the levers are at your fingertips. If you can’t figure it out take it to your LBS.
Step 9: Keep your bike clean, especially the chain and gears. Plenty of good stuff out there, I like Park Tool’s cleaner. Clean chains = fast bike.
Step 10: Get aero. Wind resistance is your biggest enemy at speed. In addition to getting an aero bike, get form-fitting jerseys and shorts (I’m a huge fan of Pearl Pros), a light aero helmet, aero gloves, and socks. Learn to get in an aero position during sprints/descents. If you really want to get crazy and shave your body, go for it. Get rid of that bulky seat post bag and only carry what you need. I use Specialized’s integrated SWAT Road Bandit tube holder. Saves weight and lost energy through things jostling. Get light bottles and only carry them if you need them.
Boom, there you have it. Those last items add 1mph for a total gain of 4mph. I was averaging 19mph easy and 20mph when I really got after it. And that is solo. Plus, it made me love riding so much that I’ve also improved fitness and have added an extra 1-2mph. Now I blow by the clowns in the peloton with their dumb time trial bikes and helmets and matching jerseys. Yeah, my endurance bike just spit gravel in your face. My wife won’t even ride with me anymore because I’m miles ahead in a matter of minutes.
So there you have it. 3 years ago I’m a 40 year old golfer that thought biking was for losers, now I’m at the front of grand fondos.
Can’t afford all this stuff? Not my problem. Stop wasting time doing nonsense and do something with yourself so that you can buy nice things on a whim. Or just work on your fitness I guess.
08-05-19, 07:39 PM
#178
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They say one of the trademarks of a master troll is posting only the first post and let the thread grow, don't showing up again.
Last edited by Reynolds; 08-05-19 at 07:43 PM.
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08-05-19, 10:12 PM
#180
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He can't be bothered to follow up, too busy riding at the front of all the grand fondos.
08-05-19, 10:23 PM
#181
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A great troll involves people taking the post seriously. This one was sniffed out with the first response.
#trollfail
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08-05-19, 10:25 PM
#182
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"Jesus. The guy posts up his step by step evolution and ascribes his gains (rightly or wrongly) to the changes and people want to kick his ass? I wonder why BF has the reputation it has?"
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08-06-19, 03:17 AM
#183
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This is his own summation of what you are referring to as his ‘step by step evolution’
Shame on you.
Who said they wanted to kick his ass btw?
08-06-19, 05:29 AM
#184
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Hook, Line Sinker.
Troll 1 Road Forum zero.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
08-06-19, 07:40 AM
#185
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“Now I blow by the clowns in the peloton with their dumb time trial bikes and helmets and matching jerseys. Yeah, my endurance bike just spit gravel in your face. My wife won’t even ride with me anymore because I’m miles ahead in a matter of minutes”
This is his own summation of what you are referring to as his ‘step by step evolution’
Shame on you.
Who said they wanted to kick his ass btw?
This is his own summation of what you are referring to as his ‘step by step evolution’
Shame on you.
Who said they wanted to kick his ass btw?
Last edited by noodle soup; 08-06-19 at 07:47 AM.
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08-06-19, 03:42 PM
#187
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This is easy.
Typical ride on an '86 Stumpjumper: 15 mph avg (37 lbs)
Typical ride on a Schwinn Letour: 17 mph (31 lbs)
Typical ride on 7: 20 mph (17.5 lbs and training clinchers)
No dogging it at any time. 5 mph gain, same fitness, similar rolling hill course.
Typical ride on an '86 Stumpjumper: 15 mph avg (37 lbs)
Typical ride on a Schwinn Letour: 17 mph (31 lbs)
Typical ride on 7: 20 mph (17.5 lbs and training clinchers)
No dogging it at any time. 5 mph gain, same fitness, similar rolling hill course.
08-06-19, 04:01 PM
#188
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^ And it successfully rolls along.... 
08-07-19, 09:25 AM
#189
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I totally agree. Good old steel
When I was in better shape, I could average close to 20mph on an old 1986 steel Le Circuit (about $200) in baggies and a loose t-shirt. I used to ride with guys who sported lighter an far more expensive bikes and in spite of the equipment could not keep up for any period of time.
If you are racing and need to shave every bit of time off, I could see it. For regular riding, steel is fine.
Let's have some fun:
Shaving all exposed body hair including eyebrows might help as well. Thinking of it, a complete body shave might save a few grams. Also: filling the tires with helium might help. Evacuating bowels and bladder a few grams. No water bottle (water is heavy). Aerogel helmet etc. Keeping anything that flaps including one's lips could also decrease drag.
Wow.
When I was in better shape, I could average close to 20mph on an old 1986 steel Le Circuit (about $200) in baggies and a loose t-shirt. I used to ride with guys who sported lighter an far more expensive bikes and in spite of the equipment could not keep up for any period of time.
If you are racing and need to shave every bit of time off, I could see it. For regular riding, steel is fine.
Let's have some fun:
Shaving all exposed body hair including eyebrows might help as well. Thinking of it, a complete body shave might save a few grams. Also: filling the tires with helium might help. Evacuating bowels and bladder a few grams. No water bottle (water is heavy). Aerogel helmet etc. Keeping anything that flaps including one's lips could also decrease drag.
Wow.
08-11-19, 11:39 PM
#191
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Step 5 should be before Step 1. Buying a $10,000 bike that might not fit is dumb. Might have worked for the OP but not a formula for success.
08-12-19, 03:52 AM
#192
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Let's have some fun:
Shaving all exposed body hair including eyebrows might help as well. Thinking of it, a complete body shave might save a few grams. Also: filling the tires with helium might help. Evacuating bowels and bladder a few grams. No water bottle (water is heavy). Aerogel helmet etc. Keeping anything that flaps including one's lips could also decrease drag.
Wow.
Shaving all exposed body hair including eyebrows might help as well. Thinking of it, a complete body shave might save a few grams. Also: filling the tires with helium might help. Evacuating bowels and bladder a few grams. No water bottle (water is heavy). Aerogel helmet etc. Keeping anything that flaps including one's lips could also decrease drag.
Wow.
08-12-19, 06:05 AM
#193
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08-12-19, 06:22 AM
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08-12-19, 10:11 PM
#196
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Bones are heavy. How many ribs do you really need?
08-12-19, 10:22 PM
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08-13-19, 06:24 AM
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