Converting touring bike into a gravel grinder
#1
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Converting touring bike into a gravel grinder
Thinking about converting my touring bike into a gravel grinder/bike packer. I bought this bike 2 years ago as my dream touring bike but found that I enjoy pavement touring less and less. Main reason being the lack of decent cycle paths and the generally unsafe road manners of car and truck drivers in my country (Canada). I have enjoyed riding mixed surfaces on my CX bike but find it uncomfortable for long rides which is why I'm thinking of the conversion of my touring bike. The bike is currently equipped with 105 3x10 speed and TRP Spyre mechanical disc brakes.
I'm thinking of converting the 105 drivetrain to GRX (so I can go 1x11) and possibly going 650b so I can fit wider tires.
So a few questions for the group from a bikepacking noob - does anyone regret running 650b? Any reason not to do a 1x11 drivetrain (with 11-42 cassette)?
I'm thinking of converting the 105 drivetrain to GRX (so I can go 1x11) and possibly going 650b so I can fit wider tires.
So a few questions for the group from a bikepacking noob - does anyone regret running 650b? Any reason not to do a 1x11 drivetrain (with 11-42 cassette)?
Last edited by hhk25; 10-22-19 at 08:27 PM.
#2
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Thinking about converting my touring bike into a gravel grinder/bike packer. I bought this bike 2 years ago as my dream touring bike but found that I enjoy pavement touring less and less. Main reason being the lack of decent cycle paths and the generally unsafe road manners of car and truck drivers in my country (Canada). I have enjoyed riding mixed surfaces on my CX bike but find it uncomfortable for long rides which is why I'm thinking of the conversion of my touring bike. The bike is currently equipped with 105 3x10 speed and TRP Spyre mechanical disc brakes.
I'm thinking of converting the 105 drivetrain to GRX (so I can go 1x11) and possibly going 650b so I can fit wider tires.
So a few questions for the group from a bikepacking noob - does anyone regret running 650b? Any reason not to do a 1x11 drivetrain (with 11-42 cassette)?
I'm thinking of converting the 105 drivetrain to GRX (so I can go 1x11) and possibly going 650b so I can fit wider tires.
So a few questions for the group from a bikepacking noob - does anyone regret running 650b? Any reason not to do a 1x11 drivetrain (with 11-42 cassette)?
I converted my Jamis Renegade to a gravel/bikepacking bike a while back. The TRP brakes are great. I have a 11 - 46 cassette and a 38 tooth chain ring, which is all I need unless I have luggage. And mountains. In that case I shift to the 26 tooth chain ring in front, which is the only time I've ever used that front ring. The front derailleur doesn't really like the 26 tooth ring, and so I use it only when needed, which means loaded and going up a long steep hill. It is my touring bike but it can also go on gravel. The max tire size is 29 x 40, which is a little narrow for gravel, in my opinion, though many would disagree.
I have another bike actually designed for bikepacking, and it is 1 x 11, 11-46 with a 30T chain ring, and 29 x 3 inch tires. I find wider tires more stable on gravel (provided the tire pressure is moderated), but they are slow on pavement. I don't see any disadvantage to 650b tires, but if you're going to climb mountains, I recommend an 11 - 46 cassette, and learn to pack very light.
#3
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What would the 1x11 do that the 3x10 doesnt? Not disagreeing, just asking to understand. If the 3x10 does what you need, then is the change beneficial?
What size tire fits now and what 650 tire would you want to fit?
What size tire fits now and what 650 tire would you want to fit?
#4
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Your question about the advantages of 3x10 over 1x11 is good, as is the question about tire size.
#5
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I've got 700x32 on there now and I think 38s would fit with some clearance at the fork. I'm hoping I can get 47s on with 650b wheels.
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Does your touring bike have disc brakes or cantilever posts? If the latter (and these are designed for 700c), how do you plan on making this work with 650b? Also 47c may not clear the frame given that the bike was likely designed around 32c tires.
#7
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What DeadGrandpa said - you lose the FD, cables and shifter. Simplifies the setup. I guess you get some weight savings too. I'm never going to use the high gear off road although I might regret the loss of climbing capability when fully loaded.
I've got 700x32 on there now and I think 38s would fit with some clearance at the fork. I'm hoping I can get 47s on with 650b wheels.
I've got 700x32 on there now and I think 38s would fit with some clearance at the fork. I'm hoping I can get 47s on with 650b wheels.
Not trying to talk you out of 1x, just curious since you already have a capable drivetrain in place. Going 1x certainly makes sense, given your ideals.
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#9
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Ok. I asked why get rid of your current drivetrain because in general, the wider range of gearing will help when you when carrying gear bikepacking and also because wider tires effectively make gearing more difficult. And a 3x drivetrain is an easy way to get that wider range on the low end. A simple swap to a Sugino XD600 crank with 46/36/26 rings would give you all the range you need and eliminate the higher gearing you mention you will never use.
Not trying to talk you out of 1x, just curious since you already have a capable drivetrain in place. Going 1x certainly makes sense, given your ideals.
Not trying to talk you out of 1x, just curious since you already have a capable drivetrain in place. Going 1x certainly makes sense, given your ideals.
After a couple of seasons, I've come to the realization that the Trek is better touring bike than my new Marinoni. It just needs some updating. So I want to repurpose the Marinoni as a dedicated mixed surface bike.
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#11
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I'll have to do some experimenting with tire width for sure. A bigger concern for me is clearance at the BB and pedals. I need to maximize the rubber size to get the BB up as high as possible.
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IIRC, a 700 x 28 is roughly equal in circumference to a 650b x 42 or 44, giving the same BB height. The challenge is width of tire at that size between stays/fork.
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1x is great if you are doing solo rides and/or are not concerned about cadence.
2x is great if you are doing fast group rides when you really need to be in the right gear for the right cadence. Makes it harder to get dropped on the uphills and on the downhills.
You may be different, but for me:
1x complicates the setup - as I'm really gonna end up changing chainrings for the type of ride I'm doing
1x was a heavier option on my bike (those big cassets aren't the lightest).
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I've done the CX thing on gravel. Even on a stiff aluminum frame, I can get a fairly cush ride going with larger tires (tubless) and a cush seat post. I could take it farther with a redshif stem if I wanted to...
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You are going to spend a lot to do this and you will still have a "gravel" bike that has an overly heavy frame, too little vertical compliance, the wrong fork and too little tire clearance. You are better off selling the touring rig (or setting it back in the garage on the "some day" hook) and getting a purpose-built gravel machine just like you want. There are so many choices now and maybe the Jamis Renegade steel frame models might be a good place to start looking. What is your budget?
#16
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You are going to spend a lot to do this and you will still have a "gravel" bike that has an overly heavy frame, too little vertical compliance, the wrong fork and too little tire clearance. You are better off selling the touring rig (or setting it back in the garage on the "some day" hook) and getting a purpose-built gravel machine just like you want. There are so many choices now and maybe the Jamis Renegade steel frame models might be a good place to start looking. What is your budget?
I probably want to spend 2000 US for a gravel bike. Steel frame, hydraulic discs, thru axles being the must haves.
I would prefer a frameset so I can build it myself.
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