Is there a ramped and pinned 33T 5-bolt 110mm BCD Chainring?
#1
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Is there a ramped and pinned 33T 5-bolt 110mm BCD Chainring?
The 110mm BCD should support a 33T chainring but I've been having trouble finding one. T.A. Specialities makes a 33T 5-bolt 110mm BCD but their only version of it isn't ramped and pinned. Does anyone know of a company that makes a 33T ramped and pinned? The setup I'm trying to put together is marginal enough that the difference between 33T and 34T actually does matter for front derailleur clearance.
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Since the general lower limit for ring teeth on a 110 is 34T consider it fortunate that someone has offered anything less then 34T. The day of ring selection by each tooth has gone years ago. Just like with cog sets, the economics of a wide selection of tooth counts for each position just don't make business sense to most every company in this business. Andy
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Wow, that's 56 total teeth! Your going to need a hose reel for a rear derailleur to wrap up all that chain. Assuming 700c wheels that's an 11 gear-inch low gear. Do you really need that low a gear or is this for a trike?
#7
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26" rear wheel so I'm looking at about ~10.5 gear inches, which isn't unusually low for loaded touring in a recumbent tadpole trike. I currently have a 22T granny wit the 42T cog in back and it's nowhere near low enough.
#8
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To quote your for a 2nd time, the only reason I'm using a 44T big chainring is to work within the limitations of the capacity of the rear derailleur (47T capacity) well enough to keep tension on the chain in the granny. If I could figure out how to add a 2nd chain tensioning device to the system, I'd REALLY prefer to run something like a 52T big ring to get more top end because on my current drivetrain I spin out of 44-13 on surprisingly flat terrain. It'd be nice to pick up another 5mph or so before I spin out.
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#11
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No, friction bar ends. However, the size of the planned jump means that ramps and pins will help it be easier to climb up 16T in a single lift vs just smashing the crap out of the chain sideways and hoping it works.
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This has a 2.5:1 reduction capability: rehab drive - schlumpfdrive - ultraflat Planetary Gear for Bikes
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I'm not convinced a "shadow" derailleur is hurt by running a short chain. I've hit it once on a bike, and it simply failed to jump up. Of course, if one does catch the chain, one might rip the chain apart of one puts too much power in.
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This has a 2.5:1 reduction capability: rehab drive - schlumpfdrive - ultraflat Planetary Gear for Bikes
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SPA cycles has 33T inner/middle chainrings that have ramps and pins. I've tried the 46T and it shifts pretty well. I cannot remember whether the thickness was 4mm or 4.5mm.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s210...l-Middle-Inner
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s210...l-Middle-Inner
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OK, that's what I thought and I understand that a for a trike there is no such thing as too low a low gear. BTW, there are cassettes with 50 and 52T big cogs intended intended for 1X deivetrains but should work for your purposes. Your current 22T granny with a 52T cog gives the same 11 gear-inch low.
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OK, that's what I thought and I understand that a for a trike there is no such thing as too low a low gear. BTW, there are cassettes with 50 and 52T big cogs intended intended for 1X deivetrains but should work for your purposes. Your current 22T granny with a 52T cog gives the same 11 gear-inch low.
#18
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SPA cycles has 33T inner/middle chainrings that have ramps and pins. I've tried the 46T and it shifts pretty well. I cannot remember whether the thickness was 4mm or 4.5mm.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s210...l-Middle-Inner
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s210...l-Middle-Inner
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Friction shifting shouldn't have a problem with a 16T jump. A slight overshift to move the chain, followed by trim should become second nature with a little practice.
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As to slack chain, Rohloff makes a chain tensioner for use on bikes with vertical dropouts. Could you adapt it to your trike?
Last edited by HillRider; 01-19-20 at 09:36 AM.
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I'll add that creating a "W" cut ring teeth gate is pretty easy and can help a non pinned/ramped ring shift better. But most people are afraid of taking a file to a new ring. Andy
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I have a 20T jump between double chainrings and it shifts fine with index triggers. Only problem is the chain rub when on the small chainring and trying to get on the outermost 3 cogs, but it's ok since the gear range overlaps there. The spacing between the 2 chainrings need to be a little closer though for such a high jump. I have my TA chainrings at around 7.6-7.8mm center to center. The Spa cycle chainrings I was able to get to around 8.0mm for a little more chain clearance for the chain rub.
#23
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I've wanted to try a triple with something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-mircoSH...0AAOSwCmBdzGxA
Maybe not enough for that small a granny, but might just work with a triple+wide range cassette. It is meant to work with a double though.
Maybe not enough for that small a granny, but might just work with a triple+wide range cassette. It is meant to work with a double though.
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I neglected to ask earlier but where are you getting a 17T granny chainring and what's it's bolt circle? Is it a repurposed cassette cog? The smallest real chainring I've ever seen is 20T but I've seen adapters that allow the use of a rear cog as a chainring.
#25
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Yup, using a Mountain Tamer to convert from 74mm BCD to freewheel cog.