markwesti

I don’t know if it’s the same , but Krylon scb-005 Red Pepper is a very good match on a 86 IM

Hackman61

Thanks Mark!

TXsailor

Speaking of color matches has anyone figured out a match for these colors?

markwesti

Testors Light Blue 1108 , maybe . Hummm , now that I see the two next together . Needs a little some thing . Cool thing about the Testors kits is doing a little mixing .

TXsailor

Maybe with a little green added? I am going to need a pretty near perfect match, I am going to have to touch up a pretty good sized spot. Is the white the same as other years?

markwesti

To touch up a large area I would suggest a air brush . Or maybe not , I would def use spot putty (single part 3M) first , though . For the white , don't know , because I have never seen it for real . From the picture it looks white / white . Where my 86' is almost a off/ white .
TX is yours a 87' or 88' ? 87' Marine grn . 88' Teal grn. .

ddeand 

Slowly getting some work done on my MV - I don't want to move too fast since I have until next spring to get it done. A couple things I'm realizing; first, about 50% of the marks/chips are caked on grease and muck, and second, matching the paint will be a bit of trial and error (but you all knew that). I'm finding that 0000 steel wool with a citrus solvent is working on all of the grease marks, although it does dull the finish slightly. Once I get the paint touch-up finished, I'll do some sanding and finish the whole frame with rubbing and polishing compounds and wax - the test areas look pretty decent, though. As far as the painting goes, I bought a few small bottles of acrylic paint at a local art store and did some mixing and matching. I need to get the right balance/mixture before I do all the spots. The photo is a shot of my most recent attempt - pre-sanding. After it hardens, I'll level and finish the spot to see how closely I've come, and when I get it right, I'll post the paint and mixture that I used.

madpogue 

^^^^^ For the grease marks, try a mix of the solvent (or something like Fluid Film) and baking soda. Just enough abrasive to crack loose things like tar, grease, etc, but shouldn't dull the finish (or at least much less so than steel wool).

seypat

Seatpost binder bolt info. The one on the right is an original one from an 86'. The other one I have is listed as a 22mm. Both are 22mm from the outside of the heads. The non original will not work. Per picture, the keyed side is the reason why. When looking for one that will work, the key side length needs to be 11mm from the key/14mm from the inside of the head to the other end.

xiaoman1 

Thanks SS, I found one in my stash so all is good. I am in the process of refreshing the grease and deciding on some cosmetics...Ben

TXsailor

I need one for the bike I am working on for my Daughter. Do you have a p/n or a source for one that works?

xiaoman1 

Hi TXS,
I don't have a part number..the one that I used did not have the key and I believe it was a MICHE brand?
Sorry, Ben

Cierrecart1

Awesome thread guys! I’m gathering some great info about my recently acquired Carbon R. A buddy found it complete, less wheelset) a few months ago dumped outside his office. He knows I love a good project, so he tossed it my way. It’s in great shape, and today I picked up a wheelset for it. Plan is to throw a chain and pedals on it tomorrow and gift it a test ride before tearing it all down for cleaning, re-clearing the Carbon, and polishing the aluminum before building it back up. I’ll get some pics up once I hit 10 posts, lol.

TriBiker19 

Looking at my posts from four months ago... *sigh*

I'm not sure how you guys were so patient.

canklecat

That's why this is such a good forum.

And there are no zombie threads in C&V. Only classic and vintage threads dusted off for an overdue ride around the block.

madpogue 

^^^^^ +1; if the bike is older than the thread, you're fine.

abshipp 

Quick question here about geometry.

I've perused the thread a bit but there's a lot to go through, so can anyone confirm or correct this summary about seat tube angles?

1986-1988 74.5° STA
1989 73° STA

STA is a big factor in whether a bike will fit me or not.

Thanks!

RobbieTunes

I don't think the difference was that much from '88 to '89.
Perhaps in 1985, when there was more clearance, it was the shallower number.
There is anecdotal evidence (and I believe) that the 1989 was a quicker handler. It might have just been gas.
Centurion told the bike magazines it tweaked the '89 the geometry, but never provided accurate and up to date numbers.
My educated guess would be that the 1985 was the smoothest and most stable, hence the shallowest.
It seems like the '86 was a bit quicker, and I can't really say if the '87 and '88 followed this trend or were the same.
It seems like the black '89's were a bit twitchy, but I didn't feel this way about my '89 fade. Probably in my head.
I'm sure the numbers are out there, but whether the entire lineup conforms to some static numbers, I simply don't know.
They all ride the same to me from '86 on: like an Italian for 1/5 the price.

abshipp 

Thanks Robbie!

The only IMs that really tickle my fancy are the 87 and 88 Masters and Experts, especially the "Miami Vice" magenta, marine green & white, and the purple fade on the 88s.

Good to know that they should all pretty much be the same geo-wise.

RobbieTunes

Imagine if we could get a ton of them together. What a colorful lot that would be.

aprieto28

New saddle and leather bar wrap.

madpogue 

Yeah, so would the bikes......

RobbieTunes

Looks great. I like the wrap, but it also comes in that same yellow. Takes some searching.
Probably belongs more in the other Ironman thread, as this is mainly for data on the bike, to help those who want it/need it.
That other Ironman thread is like a greatest hit album.

aprieto28

Thanks!

TXsailor

a

Has anyone came up with a color code for the MV colors? I will need to do some touch up on mine & my sister in law's bikes and sure would like to paint a bottle cage the magenta color to go with the yellow on on the bike.
I'm also trying to figure out what I am going to do with the letters on the 105 crank set. Its worn partly off. I could polish it and do away with the letters or maybe reproduce the mat finish and somehow re stencil the letters back on.