Disc brakes are now the default on road bikes and no one cares
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I have 3 bikes with 11 speed cassettes. Any of those 3 may be on the trainer and two of the bikes have a spare set of wheels that may be in use. Thats 5 sets and my wife rides the trainer, too. Thats 6 sets.
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That kinda sucks.
I'm surprised you couldn't find a local dealer that serviced CK hubs. The shops I've worked at that were CK dealers, all had the tools/experience needed to service their hubs. CK recommends 6-12 month service intervals, but those seem to err on the side of caution.
I'm surprised you couldn't find a local dealer that serviced CK hubs. The shops I've worked at that were CK dealers, all had the tools/experience needed to service their hubs. CK recommends 6-12 month service intervals, but those seem to err on the side of caution.
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It takes a couple of minutes to cut a shim from a beer can with scissors- ~.1mm.
My two primary bikes (road & CX) each run 3 or 4 wheelsets, each with it's own cassette, and they all swap without adjustment.
The brake lever position may be a little different due to rim width, but not enough to need any work.
It's not a big deal.
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Didn't you mention that it was direct drive trainer? (which typically I think means the wheel is off)
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It takes a couple of minutes to cut a shim from a beer can with scissors- ~.1mm.
My two primary bikes (road & CX) each run 3 or 4 wheelsets, each with it's own cassette, and they all swap without adjustment.
The brake lever position may be a little different due to rim width, but not enough to need any work.
It's not a big deal.
My two primary bikes (road & CX) each run 3 or 4 wheelsets, each with it's own cassette, and they all swap without adjustment.
The brake lever position may be a little different due to rim width, but not enough to need any work.
It's not a big deal.
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All of the wheels can be interchanged on all of the bikes AND the trainer with no rear derailleur adjustments.
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Again - there's the issue. I think it just might be hard for people to understand who don't live in places like the majority of the country - The longest "descent" any of us sees during a season is 1 minute or less and that's if we go up to Wisconsin and descend some actual hills. Otherwise it's the 15 seconds down the other side of the highway overpass.
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I haven't read any posts on this thread except the last page, but just wanted to add that I own a disc brake Emonda sl6 and had a 2009 Madone before that (rim brake). After owning and riding both I can say that my next bike will be rim brake. Specifically a Canyon Ultimate cf slx 8.0 Di2. In my opinion disc brakes are great, but totally unneccessary for road bikes. They are heavier, more expensive, there is a 100% chance they will rub at some point and it will happen more than once, and in my opinion they look bad on a road bike. They do stop better than rim brakes though I guess.
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That looks awesome!! I'll be doing Mt Mitchell for the first time this spring, looks similar, about a 30 mile descent with 5k+ ft of elevation drop (couple of small climbs on the way down, but still looks like a lot of fun!).
They didn't put any music to it, so all you hear is wind, and a few shouts of "yeah!!" and "yee-haw!!". (also, he must not have disc brakes, because when they're hitting the blue ridge parkway around 6:40 he mentions his hands hurting from braking )
They didn't put any music to it, so all you hear is wind, and a few shouts of "yeah!!" and "yee-haw!!". (also, he must not have disc brakes, because when they're hitting the blue ridge parkway around 6:40 he mentions his hands hurting from braking )
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You can use the same shimming on the cassette to achieve the same but yeah if brand change their shifting can be slightly different. I have done it maybe once in 30 years.
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For me it's more about consistency and being able to run carbon wheels more safely. At 215ish pounds total system weight, there's no way I'm doing the descents posted above on rim brakes. Plus, I think they look better, but aesthetics are always a very personal thing.
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They are more expensive, but I can afford them
"there is a 100% chance they will rub at some point and it will happen more than once". I haven't had this problem, but I only have 22k miles on mine.
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My regular road ride includes a 30 minute descent
I don't feel any need for disc brakes, and don't have a need for the latest and greatest, and don't need a new bike. But if I were shopping for a new road bike I'd probably get discs because it's the new standard and I don't care.
I don't feel any need for disc brakes, and don't have a need for the latest and greatest, and don't need a new bike. But if I were shopping for a new road bike I'd probably get discs because it's the new standard and I don't care.
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Here is a long descent you guys might like, Hwy 38 from Onyx Summit to Redlands. It's about 35 miles with a 1 mile climb in the middle.
edit, I don't remember using the brakes much there.
edit, I don't remember using the brakes much there.
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https://www.amazon.com/0-25mm-Zipp-F.../dp/B0063HMR6O
Are the an internal spacer, or do they slide over the freehub body(like Shimano 10spd 1mm spacers)?
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Of the 4 shops I worked in 3 were CK dealers but only one had the tools and never needed them. I bought the tools after moving for grad school and in the next 7 or 8 years only used them once on a customer's bike and only cause he wanted them completely stripped. Otherwise a pen knife or small pick is used to pull out the seals, spray them with some degreaser, dry, regrease and reinstall the seals. 20 years later I just rebuilt a hub with its 4th rim and will rebuild the front next month and its never needed the special tools. It'll be interesting with disc to see if rims can outlast the hubs without having rim brakes wearing through sidewalls
That said I have had to call on the tools more than once. The amount of money that you can charge for a CK service makes them worth buying them if you are a shop and a dealer. If you are a rider who does your own maintenance then .... I can see buying them just because you want them but it's a bit like buying a paint booth for your house so you can re-paint 1 door panel for a car you won't have for much longer.
You can indeed get away with not having all of the tools if you want to do some basic maintenance but that's also like saying you can change spark plugs with an adjustable wrench and a hammer.
My video on how they work was really just meant to create a video that might help more people know about us but has reached 69k views and at one point Chris King was monitoring the comments section.
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Do you have any experience with these shims?
https://www.amazon.com/0-25mm-Zipp-F.../dp/B0063HMR6O
Are the an internal spacer, or do they slide over the freehub body(like Shimano 10spd 1mm spacers)?
https://www.amazon.com/0-25mm-Zipp-F.../dp/B0063HMR6O
Are the an internal spacer, or do they slide over the freehub body(like Shimano 10spd 1mm spacers)?
Side note - Talked to Boyd 2 weeks ago when he was in town. We briefly talked about shimming. He has some made for him/buys them and has them available. I looked at getting a tool done to punch is as Leah's husband owns a metal stamping company. He said, "eh...don't"
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aham23 moved out there. My parents have a place up the road in Scottsdale. Leah and a handful of riders are leaving today to mtb ride on the west side of Phoenix. Arizona: The midwest's current version of Florida.
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I haven't read any posts on this thread except the last page, but just wanted to add that I own a disc brake Emonda sl6 and had a 2009 Madone before that (rim brake). After owning and riding both I can say that my next bike will be rim brake. Specifically a Canyon Ultimate cf slx 8.0 Di2. In my opinion disc brakes are great, but totally unneccessary for road bikes. They are heavier, more expensive, there is a 100% chance they will rub at some point and it will happen more than once, and in my opinion they look bad on a road bike. They do stop better than rim brakes though I guess.
....This is what makes the issue. Those of us with experience on disc will tell people that say this, "Oh the rubbing is fine it doesn't actually slow you down just makes a noise. Here let me press the pistons back for you and that will all go away. See."
but you can't tell a roadie that something making noise because of touching something rotating on a wheel is fine. It will drive a roadie nuts.
I have said this in a few places, including to engineers at SRAM and no one seems to be interested but road calipers need to be a dual acting system. Low pressure, fast/longer stoke in until contact, then switch to high pressure circuit for braking. Yes, I worked at a hydraulics company for years and spent more than my fair share of time making and designing hydraulic circuits but I totally forget how to achieve this but I believe it was just different reservoir/passage sizes and check/or weighted valves. This would allows road disc pads to retract and GTFO out of the way when not being used. It would stop pad rub as well.
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Is the sheriff still up there that likes to hassle anyone on two wheels (he used to be as bad with bicycles as motorcycles)?