ISO and for trade thread part 5
03-25-20, 11:59 AM
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Here's how you get those chainring bolts apart.
Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.
Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.
03-25-20, 02:08 PM
#2152
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Want to trade my 175mm RX100 road triple for a 170mm
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03-25-20, 03:05 PM
#2153
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Here's how you get those chainring bolts apart.
Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.
Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.
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03-25-20, 06:05 PM
#2154
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Here's how you get those chainring bolts apart.
Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.
Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.
As it happens, drilled them out fairly easily by clamping a set of vise grips on to the just-barely-protruding enough slotted heads on the back sides of the chainring bolts, and drilling through the hex-head side. Once you drill through 3mm or so, presto! The head comes right off and the remaining part of the nut/bolt assembly slips right out.
I don't think I described that very well, but maybe this is a problem that resists easily-described solutions.
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03-26-20, 08:24 AM
#2155
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ISO a 36t 110BCD Biopace ring for my Colin Laing tandem.
Anybody got one lying around?
Anybody got one lying around?
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03-26-20, 07:13 PM
#2156
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Ben
03-26-20, 07:23 PM
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Ben,
It is still here thanks to the lock down from Covid19. There is some rust under the braze on both sides of the seat stays as it looks to be a quick brazing with just the top of the braze being finished. It could also be a welded joint where the complete around the tube would not be necessary. All is solid though. Plenty of low grade rusting up there but clean-able. Smiles, MH
It is still here thanks to the lock down from Covid19. There is some rust under the braze on both sides of the seat stays as it looks to be a quick brazing with just the top of the braze being finished. It could also be a welded joint where the complete around the tube would not be necessary. All is solid though. Plenty of low grade rusting up there but clean-able. Smiles, MH
03-26-20, 08:43 PM
#2158
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03-27-20, 10:05 AM
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I can't quite picture that. Maybe what's confusing me is where you talk about drilling a hole "through the bolt and into the crankarm BUT NOT into the bolt."
As it happens, drilled them out fairly easily by clamping a set of vise grips on to the just-barely-protruding enough slotted heads on the back sides of the chainring bolts, and drilling through the hex-head side. Once you drill through 3mm or so, presto! The head comes right off and the remaining part of the nut/bolt assembly slips right out.
I don't think I described that very well, but maybe this is a problem that resists easily-described solutions.
As it happens, drilled them out fairly easily by clamping a set of vise grips on to the just-barely-protruding enough slotted heads on the back sides of the chainring bolts, and drilling through the hex-head side. Once you drill through 3mm or so, presto! The head comes right off and the remaining part of the nut/bolt assembly slips right out.
I don't think I described that very well, but maybe this is a problem that resists easily-described solutions.
To help you see it, there is a three-layer sandwich.
The top layer is the flange of the rear part of the chainring bolt/nut combo, I called it the nut (edit: no I didn't, I called it the bolt - now fixed) above.
The middle layer is the crank-arm-spider.
The bottom layer is the flange of the outer part of the chainring bolt/nut combo, I called it bolt above.
(The whole assembly is upside-down on the press table.)
You drill in the slot because it will help the bit stay put and because the metal is thinner there, and because when you put it back together it won't show as much.
You drill through the top two layers, then put the shank in the hole.
This locks the nut to the arm, and lets the bolt free - when you give it enough welly with the hex key.
Last edited by oneclick; 03-27-20 at 10:52 AM.
03-27-20, 10:08 AM
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I'm trying to visualize this, but am failing miserably. "though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt"? First, why drill through the crank arm? Second, how to drill through the bolt, but not into the bolt? I realize that I can be a bit snarky at times, but I promise, this is not one of them. Also, wouldn't using a good vise be simpler?
03-27-20, 10:25 AM
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Have Dawes Distinction brake hoods, want some little bits
These are rough but useable. I'm after pedal caps for Campy Victory/Triomphe, the nasty square-ended plastic ones, caps for Ofmega Sintesi pedals, a Gian Robert Competiton FD, any french dia top-tube brake cable clips...
03-27-20, 11:31 AM
#2162
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Those look like the same white pvc-ish material as the white Carlton/Weinmann hoods. I bet those would clean up great with Magic Eraser.
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03-27-20, 12:09 PM
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03-27-20, 03:00 PM
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When you need to use such a pin-tool near the limit, clamp it to the chainring with a pair of wood blocks; have the back one overhang the whole tool, and the front one leave clearance for the hex key. It helps if you can brace the tool against another part of the crankset.
03-27-20, 03:13 PM
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ISO Early Shimano brake caliber 'cable pinch bolt nut' (??).
I bought a set of Shimano Dura Ace brake callipers off the Bay and they arrived with both callipers missing the nut to hold what i would call the 'brake cable pinch bolt' ( seen lower left in the following picture) MIA.
Can't just run off to the bolt supply store right now so does anyone out there have a couple of spares they could part with?
Question, would the bolt have metric threads?
TIA
Cheers.
Brad
Shimano pinch bolt nut by BJ Stevens, on Flickr
Shimano pinch bolt nut by BJ Stevens, on Flickr
Shimano pinch bolt nut by BJ Stevens, on Flickr
Can't just run off to the bolt supply store right now so does anyone out there have a couple of spares they could part with?
Question, would the bolt have metric threads?
TIA
Cheers.
Brad
Shimano pinch bolt nut by BJ Stevens, on FlickrShimano pinch bolt nut by BJ Stevens, on FlickrShimano pinch bolt nut by BJ Stevens, on Flickr
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03-27-20, 04:22 PM
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03-27-20, 04:27 PM
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Natterberry,
I snuck out (under the radar) today. Picked up a shipping box left out on the back of one of our shops here in town, then packed it up. Again under the radar, I was able to get it to FED EX. It is on the way! One more item out of here, and hopefully the War Department will chill for a couple of days. Smiles, MH
I snuck out (under the radar) today. Picked up a shipping box left out on the back of one of our shops here in town, then packed it up. Again under the radar, I was able to get it to FED EX. It is on the way! One more item out of here, and hopefully the War Department will chill for a couple of days. Smiles, MH
Last edited by Mad Honk; 03-27-20 at 04:34 PM.
03-27-20, 05:17 PM
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Ben,
It is still here thanks to the lock down from Covid19. There is some rust under the braze on both sides of the seat stays as it looks to be a quick brazing with just the top of the braze being finished. It could also be a welded joint where the complete around the tube would not be necessary. All is solid though. Plenty of low grade rusting up there but clean-able. Smiles, MH
It is still here thanks to the lock down from Covid19. There is some rust under the braze on both sides of the seat stays as it looks to be a quick brazing with just the top of the braze being finished. It could also be a welded joint where the complete around the tube would not be necessary. All is solid though. Plenty of low grade rusting up there but clean-able. Smiles, MH
news, I like low grade rust.We are on stay at home too...not sure if L.A. has no riding rule in effect so I guess if they are and I want to ride I will need to put a basket or wear a backpack in order to claim that I am going to the store.
Not making any light of the ruling...steel is real and so is the situation we all find ourselves in.
Ben
03-27-20, 06:48 PM
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Ben,
I'm making the best of it cleaning the shop and divesting all of the extra equipment from closing down my golf shop at the university. The Premis is gone, and the Raleigh now as well. Next is finding the top of my workbench. Smiles, MH
I'm making the best of it cleaning the shop and divesting all of the extra equipment from closing down my golf shop at the university. The Premis is gone, and the Raleigh now as well. Next is finding the top of my workbench. Smiles, MH
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03-28-20, 09:52 AM
#2170
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Natterberry,
I snuck out (under the radar) today. Picked up a shipping box left out on the back of one of our shops here in town, then packed it up. Again under the radar, I was able to get it to FED EX. It is on the way! One more item out of here, and hopefully the War Department will chill for a couple of days. Smiles, MH
I snuck out (under the radar) today. Picked up a shipping box left out on the back of one of our shops here in town, then packed it up. Again under the radar, I was able to get it to FED EX. It is on the way! One more item out of here, and hopefully the War Department will chill for a couple of days. Smiles, MH
Also, sorry I missed your call! I’ve been working from home, lots of time spent on calls.
03-28-20, 08:50 PM
#2171
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Anybody have an Arai drum brake?
03-29-20, 02:22 PM
#2172
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ISO Long reach Cyclone calipers or similar. No Shimano.
I have beaut short reach. I would prefer bolt on, rather than recessed, but can make either work.
I also have Shimano 600 tri-color brakes to trade, long or short reach. Plenty of other items, too, doesn't have to be for brakes in return, have nice pedals, or if you need something else. 600, 105, Campy, Nos Christophe toe clips... Chain rings, etc.
I also have Shimano 600 tri-color brakes to trade, long or short reach. Plenty of other items, too, doesn't have to be for brakes in return, have nice pedals, or if you need something else. 600, 105, Campy, Nos Christophe toe clips... Chain rings, etc.
03-29-20, 07:08 PM
#2173
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Have never encountered long reach tricolor brakes.
Pics?
Pics?
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03-29-20, 07:22 PM
#2174
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Want To Trade my 175mm Shimano RX100 triple crankset for same crankset 170mm triple. Condition is reasonably good with visible wear and some tape residue on the NDS arm
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03-30-20, 04:07 PM
#2175
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Looking for a chainring with 50.4 BCD (TA Cyclotouriste/Stronglight/etc outer) in the neighborhood of 40T - 42T
Have: whole lotta stuff! Mostly Japanese.
Have: whole lotta stuff! Mostly Japanese.