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The old and the new, the ying and the yang, the good, bad and the ugly, you decide.

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The old and the new, the ying and the yang, the good, bad and the ugly, you decide.

Old 03-27-20, 12:54 PM
  #51  
79pmooney
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merziac, good work! Your vision, Andy's ideas, inspiration and love. Dave's excellant work.

Most of you know, I love working with Dave Levy. He is the framebuilder who will take on almost any challenge IF you can convince him it is needed and you are serious. The range of the bikes (and non-bikes; he's also a first class machinist and engineer - race car fittings, wheel chairs, ...) is amazing. I love going there just to look at what's lying around!

Like you, I brought an old steel bike that fit super to him and told him to make the ti bike I'd wanted for 18 years based on that super fit. (Univega Competition. Same fit as the Fuji Pro I raced and loved.) We tweaked the geometry - higher BB, the Univeaga was a pedal scraper, slightly longer TT, slightly steeper HT so I could drop down from a 130 to a 120 stem. (God's choice. Us old racers all know that.) Then the tweaks that are just me. Flipping the rear wishbone (that is a longtime TiCycles trademark as well) so the rear brake is forward of the seatstays. "Braze-on" for a DT top mount Superbe shifter. (Dave insisted on the HT "braze-ons" so I could go index later. 12 years and I haven't touched them yet.) Oh, and 1' steel steerer! Dave tried to talk me into 1-1/8" Sometimes I wonder if I should have. But then, the day will come when I put on a Nitto Pearl. Just take the fork to TiCycles and have them thread it. Easy! Nitto Pearl in "12 cm". God would be pleased. (And God certainly knows that the fact it is right despite saying "Pearl 11".

Dave's also made my quite different fix gear (with conventional fastback stays like a track bike), modified and did numerous repairs on my Raleigh Competition, repaired my Trek winter bike (manufacturer's defect) and made unusual parts for the Mooney (and a little minor cleanup on that well ridden and worn frame. He also built a new fork for my fix gear in a real rush after the original cracked just weeks before Cycle Oregon. Lesson - if you nickle plate high strength steel (here Columbus SP), you MUST heat treat it after to drive the hydrogen molecules out of the steel. Otherwise, those huge molecules are like gravel in the mortar of a brick building that's going to see minor earthquakes. I lucked out..Last ride of that fork was a 2000' elevation training ride for CO. At the high point with all of that descending to go, I couldn't get the chain tension right when I changed to the little 13 tooth cog. So I nursed the bike down slowly with a very loose chain instead of flying into my favorite bend and shutting down hard to take the tight, banked corner at 30. Got home with the front of the bike bucking every time I touched the front brake. There were cracks running around half of the two fork blades. Dave made the replacement very fast (after having to order 531) on a very conservative crown. I got see the old fork after he cut one of the blades off. The braze around the inside of the crown? Except for the matte finish of braze that had never seen a tool, file sandpaper or eyes, it was a perfectly uniform radius all around. Wow!

Dave took the fork to a forensic materials engineering professor at the local PSU. Learned of the need to heat treat after nickle plating. Talked to the plating outfit. They knew well about the heat treat but it was another $30, They said nothing and didn't do it. (TiCycles no longer uses them.) Current fork just got repainted with the bike name (Jessica J). For years,it bore model shop enamel that Dave sprayed the day before I took it to ride CO. Perfect paint job! But model shop enamel is not what you paint custom bikes with for a durable finish!

Long story, yes. But of another framebuilder who, like Andy, loves bikes and loves to see them ridden. (And I think he invests a little good luck in the bikes he works on. Jessica decided to give me mechanical issues when the fork she was saddled with had only few miles and hours left before it was going to break. Second major fork failure for me. First nearly killed. Current is as conservative as it gets and Jessica seems to love it. May your "Strawberry" be so blessed with good luck and keep you safe!)

Ben
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Old 03-27-20, 12:58 PM
  #52  
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Seatpost - maybe this is too much setback, but a post that would look really good is the Nitto steel. Lugged steel. Excellent workmanship. Chromed. Not very heavy. My Mooney loves its.
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Old 03-27-20, 03:24 PM
  #53  
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The old sCool Campy brake blocks are a neat touch. What was the rationale?
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Old 03-27-20, 03:52 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
The old sCool Campy brake blocks are a neat touch. What was the rationale?
All about the chrome holders baby!

+Skewers, SP, clamp and rails, HS, stem, spacers and NOS record pedals with chrome steel cages.

Wanted chrome on the frame, wasn't going to happen without a lot more time and $$$$$, adjusted my want and went with bolt on.

Actually going to change out for cool stops to save the Campy's.

Also tried holders without the black plastic covering and wasn't sure, tried these and left them on but may revisit the others.

Last edited by merziac; 03-29-20 at 02:53 AM.
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Old 03-29-20, 01:15 AM
  #55  
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79pmooney

Tx!

Actually mostly all Dave's excellent work, patience with me and magic superpower that was very much needed with this.

The crowns are designed for 650b rando builds, pretty sure that's one of the reasons Andy bowed out knowing that I wanted them, clearance for 32's, and short reach brakes with 700c wheels.

Of course Dave made it happen and I love it, so glad it turned out well despite my "vision".
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Old 03-29-20, 01:32 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by obrentharris View Post
Congratulations Van!
I'd love to see some lighter photos of the details; lugs, fork crown, cable stops, etc. Maybe sometime when you get it out in the sun. That beautiful paint should really pop in the sunlight!
I like the look of the straight pin seat post and clamp but nlerner is certainly right about the squirrely nature of that type of setup.
Brent
Here are some raw pics, nothing cooler than actual before pics.





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Old 03-29-20, 02:05 AM
  #57  
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More






And Mr. 66

ST 73 deg.
ST 660mm C to top
TT 580mm C to C, level
HT 73.75 deg
TH 220mm(depends on fork length...)
FC 600mm
CS 420mm C to C
Drop 70mm
Spacing 130mm
Headset 1" threaded/quill stem

The TT was sloped 1 degree at the last minute for about 15mm drop at the back so....

We talked about it in the beginning and I was a hard no, not thinking 2, maybe 3 degrees would have been ok but I was thinking modern and didn't want that much.
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Old 03-29-20, 02:48 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by crank_addict View Post
Congrats! Definetely a head turn, er headset turner. Crowns and lugs, paint- handsome. More pics ;")

Rubber is right on the deck, no mudguards for this one.

Tossing thought on the seatpost, perhaps J&L to match the calipers and go silver. I have both in black and other in silver. The silver can polish up.

Seller in Taiwan might also work with you on finish and exra length, should that matter. I hadn't been pleased with the looks of clamp part, sent pics and complaint. They were very fast to respond and sent another.

Looking forward to the ride report-


J&L
Tx for all that.

Going to workover and polish a 2 bolt Campy next, that was the other first choice and will get done before any else.

And as I stated, there will be a considerable amount of effort put into the clamp and post to resolve the reliability. This is one of those things where most say "oh its a POS anyway, no need to waste any effort on it", well it was what there was for a long time and worked just fine so I will drill down and find a way to use it.

The 58 Paramount has the exact same setup that has been on there for 62 years and works so we'll see.
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Old 03-29-20, 03:29 PM
  #59  
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That's beautiful!!! That rear crown for the wishbone stay is a cool idea. The extended head tube is a nice touch too.
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Old 03-29-20, 04:10 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
That's beautiful!!! That rear crown for the wishbone stay is a cool idea. The extended head tube is a nice touch too.
Tx!

They were a challenge, especially the front crown that originally has big standoff's both front and back that Dave carved out, reinforced and blended beautifully.

https://www.torchandfile.com/TF-DBL-...OWN_p_330.html

The headtube will hopefully allow me to ride this to the end of the road and have me more upright in the meantime as well.
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Old 03-29-20, 04:28 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
Tx Neal, that post may not stay, it was all about the chrome. I will try to work on the clamp and see if I can reinvent it a bit.


May have a Campy 2 bolt sleeved with SS or Ti and polish or just polish one.


The aesthetic was also on purpose.

I know you know "Classic", which makes this all the more interesting to see. I'm with Neal, I find the post out of place, though I get the reasoning. Might look at a polished weyless? Or not. Enjoy.


I've had a blast building up my own "Ultimate Frankenbikes"*, on existing frames, (one in the works for the Quarantine Challenge) To be involved with the frame design, and for it to be executed by Strawberry, I'm sure made it way more exciting and satisfying. Cool project.


* May need a different term to describe it... No offense is meant - in any way whatsoever.

Best, Eric

WOW new pics!!! rear wishbone, I love it. I hear you on the NR post... That J&L looks pretty sharp.... (just sayin').

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Old 03-29-20, 04:42 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Last ride 76 View Post
I know you know "Classic", which makes this all the more interesting to see. I'm with Neal, I find the post out of place, though I get the reasoning. Might look at a polished weyless? Or not. Enjoy.


I've had a blast building up my own "Ultimate Frankenbikes"*, on existing frames, (one in the works for the Quarantine Challenge) To be involved with the frame design, and for it to be executed by Strawberry, I'm sure made it way more exciting and satisfying. Cool project.


* May need a different term to describe it... No offense is meant - in any way whatsoever.

Best, Eric

WOW new pics!!! rear wishbone, I love it.
Tx!

No worries, I get it and you're right, it's definitely an anomaly and is outclassed from the jump on this but it was the standard for a long time despite how pedestrian and substandard it truly was.

I'll get to work on the 2 bolt Campy.

PS, full disclosure, Andy didn't build this, Dave Levy at TiCycles did after Andy bowed out.

See the addendum at the top.

Last edited by merziac; 03-29-20 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 03-29-20, 04:46 PM
  #63  
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Terrific show and tell workshop pics.

Anyways, my last blab and thought for seatpost. Suggest reaching out to Jamie Swan. Acquired this very light steel post from him directly at a show. No clue of maker nor did he say much about it other than agreeing- "its cool".



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Old 03-29-20, 04:57 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
The old sCool Campy brake blocks are a neat touch. What was the rationale?

What have bead head nymphs ever done to you?
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Old 03-29-20, 07:21 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
What have bead head nymphs ever done to you?
It's that they do nothing for me. Some folks fish with bead head nymphs and strike indicators. The same folks likely ride bikes with disk brakes and electronic shifting. I prefer fishing Traditional flys and riding Classic bikes.
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Old 03-30-20, 12:26 PM
  #66  
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beautifully done merziac

Originally Posted by merziac View Post
ADDENDUM

So it may be time for pitchforks and such.

Andy did not build this but it was done with his help, input, guidance, special parts, sauce and his full blessing.

Dave Levy of TiCycles built it after Andy changed his mind and bowed out, he originally agreed after Dave helped me convince him.

And I'm certain at this point that Dave put up with far more of my nonsense than Andy ever would have, might very well have been why he bailed.

Anyway, sorry for the slight of hand but there is nothing unStrawberry about this other than the plumber who put the pipes together and the two of them are very good friends so I'm good with that.

2020 Strawberry


May not be your cup of tea but I put a lot of time, thought, work and of course $$$$$ into this and am very happy with how it turned out.

My crappy pics, not so much.












Lots more to come.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------...beautifully done merziac...
looks great, bet it rides as good as it looks...

Julius in Ohio
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Old 03-30-20, 04:15 PM
  #67  
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All my bikes have straight posts. Take the clamp apart, rub beeswax on everysurface, tighten hard, real hard, it won’t move. Maybe check once a year. Not a problem.

Does anyone know what an Ideale number 3 saddle clamp is? Those will solve the loosening problem completely, though you should do the beeswax anyway.

The only good steel post was the early Campy. For a Strawberry it should be a Titan or Reynolds aluminum post, polished. Of course if you polish a basic Kalloy straight post it looks about the same as the old ones.
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Old 03-30-20, 06:02 PM
  #68  
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Tx!

I hope you're right and expect so, not there yet, maybe this weekend although rain is in the forecast through it so we'll see, this isn't ever going out in the rain knowingly.
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Old 03-30-20, 06:16 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by 63rickert View Post
All my bikes have straight posts. Take the clamp apart, rub beeswax on everysurface, tighten hard, real hard, it won’t move. Maybe check once a year. Not a problem.

Does anyone know what an Ideale number 3 saddle clamp is? Those will solve the loosening problem completely, though you should do the beeswax anyway.

The only good steel post was the early Campy. For a Strawberry it should be a Titan or Reynolds aluminum post, polished. Of course if you polish a basic Kalloy straight post it looks about the same as the old ones.
Will do, was already going to anti seize the bolt so I can really get after it. Need a proper wrench for it to see if it makes a difference.

The polished Campy 2 bolt will still be the plan B and should probably have been the plan A but this setup on the 58 Paramount works fine for what ever reason. Wonder if the Schwinn post is a bit bigger or different in some way that makes it work better, may have to inspect.

Where's the beeswax at?

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Old 03-30-20, 06:21 PM
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Love it--I believe in genre blending!
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Old 03-30-20, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Feldman View Post
Love it--I believe in genre blending!
Wow, tx man, me too.
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Old 03-31-20, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
Will do, was already going to anti seize the bolt so I can really get after it. Need a proper wrench for it to see if it makes a difference.

The polished Campy 2 bolt will still be the plan B and should probably been the plan A but this setup on the 58 Paramount works fine for what ever reason. Wonder if the Schwinn post is a bit bigger or different in some way that makes it work better, may have to inspect.

Where's the beeswax at?
If you have an OEM post on the 58 Paramount it is most likely a Titan. At least Wastyn was very fond of them. Top section of those was slightly larger. Most saddle clamps use a 15mm nut. With a Campy peanut butter wrench it is a hard push. Might try a regular automotive box end spanner.
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Old 03-31-20, 09:09 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by 63rickert View Post
If you have an OEM post on the 58 Paramount it is most likely a Titan. At least Wastyn was very fond of them. Top section of those was slightly larger. Most saddle clamps use a 15mm nut. With a Campy peanut butter wrench it is a hard push. Might try a regular automotive box end spanner.
Its chrome steel Schwinn branded original, it had an older not original open nose Brooks Pro with Brooks clamp that is rock solid, I put a couple hundred miles on it before I changed it.

A 15mm is sloppy on it, pretty sure its Whitworth or BS, maybe just poorly sized, I have several very good Cresent's that work good to get a good bite that I used on the 58 but they are at their limit on this. I'm a lifelong tech/mechanic and have more tools than sense including dozens of wrench's, none are a proper fit so far.

Last edited by merziac; 03-31-20 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 03-31-20, 09:19 AM
  #74  
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Beautiful bicycle, you made some excellent component and build choices. enjoy the ride, once you get the chance to log a few.

Bill
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Old 03-31-20, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by qcpmsame View Post
Beautiful bicycle, you made some excellent component and build choices. enjoy the ride, once you get the chance to log a few.

Bill
Tx Bill,

I put a lot of thought into it and struggled a bit several times, finally got here.
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