Garbage Tektro Mech Disc Brake Replacement - (POTENTIAL RABBIT HOLE)
#26
Disco Infiltrator
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,508
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
Liked 2,150 Times
in
1,402 Posts
Side note - my levers do have two anchor points, it shipped with the cable attached to the canti postion. I moved to the V brake position (less mech leverage) and they do feel better and I can no longer bottom them out. Jeff Jones says you can use either position on the levers but I disagree and so does Tektro.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Genesis 49:16-17
Likes For Darth Lefty:
#27
Senior Member
BB7s are the gold standard for cable disc brakes. That's all I've used on my bikes and if I get a bike that has another brand, I order BB7 brake and SD-7 levers, full housing when possible. Outside of that, Shimano SLX/XT for hydros which can be had for less if you get a previous year model.
Likes For commo_soulja:
#28
I love my BB7s as well, but they old tech. Great for casual ride bike for me but don't have the power and modulation I demand after using hydros. Though I hear the new hybrids with the cable actuated hydro calipers are worth considering. They don't need bleeding with the frequency of full hydros and has the tweakability of cable. Has anyone had personal experience with them?
Likes For qclabrat:
#29
Senior Member
BB7s are the gold standard for cable disc brakes. That's all I've used on my bikes and if I get a bike that has another brand, I order BB7 brake and SD-7 levers, full housing when possible. Outside of that, Shimano SLX/XT for hydros which can be had for less if you get a previous year model.
You should try Spyres or Spykes.
#30
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,252
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Liked 2,571 Times
in
1,451 Posts
I've read mixed reviews on them. A few people mention that the pad adjuster knobs do not stay put without locktite (which makes them hard to adjust). Sounds like these are great when they work, though.
Likes For Kapusta:
#31
Senior Member
After too many hassles with my XTs, I bought a set of Spykes recently. The bearings in the lever arm felt like they were made of sand. Did not even mount them, I sent them back. Maybe these were a fluke, and I have suspicions that they may not have been legit (there are a bunch on ebay for ~60% or normal price, no original packaging.... hmm).
I've read mixed reviews on them. A few people mention that the pad adjuster knobs do not stay put without locktite (which makes them hard to adjust). Sounds like these are great when they work, though.
I've read mixed reviews on them. A few people mention that the pad adjuster knobs do not stay put without locktite (which makes them hard to adjust). Sounds like these are great when they work, though.
I'd say that any mechanical brake needs servicing, all the genuine and non genuine I've opened after some use need some grease in the balls and ramps. On the BB7 the moving pad pivot could do with some grease too.
#32
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,252
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Liked 2,571 Times
in
1,451 Posts
Yep, there are fakes of both around. The fake Spykes seem OK when you open them up in terms of mechanics, but they seem to have forgotten to grease them and put loctite on the adjusting screws. Once you do that, they work fine. TRP say you can't dissasemble them, but there are instructions on line and it's as simple to do as a BB7. I use automotive disc brake grease, rated to 1600C, only a tiny amount, you can buy little sachets from auto parts stores.. The stock pads were also junk. One of the things with Spykes/Spyres is that you shouldn't really need to adjust them that often, TRP say to take up pad wear with the cable adjuster. Pretty well I've just used the adjusters to set them up initially for different thickness discs then compensate for pad wear with the cable, which is different to the BB7s, you need to adjust them with the adjusters because as the pads wear the disc gets distorted more as it's pushed sideways onto the fixed pad. I think if you constantly used the adjusters on TRPs the loctite would eventually lose it's lock properties. Centering on TRP is done with the mounting bolts. I got a set of 2 with 180mm discs and adapters off Aliexpress for $80 including postage, so yeah chances of them being real weren't super high.. I also got a "cheap" BB7 from Aliexpress.. It was somewhat similar to the fake TRPs, virtually no grease inside and some fairly average mechanics, works OK with a service... I run Spykes on the front and BB7s on the rear of our touring bikes, just because that's what I had lying around.
I'd say that any mechanical brake needs servicing, all the genuine and non genuine I've opened after some use need some grease in the balls and ramps. On the BB7 the moving pad pivot could do with some grease too.
I'd say that any mechanical brake needs servicing, all the genuine and non genuine I've opened after some use need some grease in the balls and ramps. On the BB7 the moving pad pivot could do with some grease too.
With the bearings feeling the way they did in the Spykes, no amount of grease was going to save them. They were crap. Even bone dry, new bearings should feel better than these did. If I decide to try them again, it will be from a reputable known dealer. Even if they do cost more.
#33
Senior Member
Hmm, I've never used nor even considered TRPs cable disc brakes. All my BB7 equipped bikes are hardtails with 180/160 rotors and they've always performed well for me. I'm refurbishing an old Ibis HT and I'll try out the TRPs. Looks like TRP markets the Spykes as the mtb brake and the Spyres as the roadie version. Their hydro/cable calipers look interesting though.
#34
Very Slow Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: E Wa
Posts: 1,274
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Liked 132 Times
in
101 Posts
Hmm, I've never used nor even considered TRPs cable disc brakes. All my BB7 equipped bikes are hardtails with 180/160 rotors and they've always performed well for me. I'm refurbishing an old Ibis HT and I'll try out the TRPs. Looks like TRP markets the Spykes as the mtb brake and the Spyres as the roadie version. Their hydro/cable calipers look interesting though.
Spyre = short pull version to work with most brifter
Neighbor has them on both his gravel bikes. pretty sweet. Not sure about the bad experiences listed above but I go through my LBS on just about everything and try to avoid AliExpress/Wish etc.
#35
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,252
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Liked 2,571 Times
in
1,451 Posts
After too many hassles with my XTs, I bought a set of Spykes recently. The bearings in the lever arm felt like they were made of sand. Did not even mount them, I sent them back. Maybe these were a fluke, and I have suspicions that they may not have been legit (there are a bunch on ebay for ~60% or normal price, no original packaging.... hmm).
.
.
Last edited by Kapusta; 05-08-20 at 11:59 AM.
#36
Yup
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: where the sunbeams end and the starlight begins
Posts: 3,083
Bikes: Kona Unit, planet X cx bike, khs fixed gear
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
I had trp spyres(road bike version) for years on my cx, super easy to set up,way easier then bb7s. Used both road and mtb versions. Never had an issue with bearings. Only thing I didn’t like was the pad adjusters would shake loose over time. Easily solved though. Biggest issue is they cost about the same as a really good prebled set of hydro brakes. Not sure I would get cable brakes when a set of m6000 arent much more in price.
I switched my bb7s on my mtb recently to Hydro Deore m615. Work great for me. I’m around 210lb and have no issues stopping, great modulation, easy setup and install/bleed. I put them on and took about 5 minute to bed the pads and was in the trails. They were a lucky find, oem takeoffs I picked up for $100.
I switched my bb7s on my mtb recently to Hydro Deore m615. Work great for me. I’m around 210lb and have no issues stopping, great modulation, easy setup and install/bleed. I put them on and took about 5 minute to bed the pads and was in the trails. They were a lucky find, oem takeoffs I picked up for $100.
__________________
When sadness fills my days
It's time to turn away
And then tomorrow's dreams
Become reality to me
When sadness fills my days
It's time to turn away
And then tomorrow's dreams
Become reality to me
Likes For pyze-guy:
#37
Yup
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: where the sunbeams end and the starlight begins
Posts: 3,083
Bikes: Kona Unit, planet X cx bike, khs fixed gear
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Hmm, I've never used nor even considered TRPs cable disc brakes. All my BB7 equipped bikes are hardtails with 180/160 rotors and they've always performed well for me. I'm refurbishing an old Ibis HT and I'll try out the TRPs. Looks like TRP markets the Spykes as the mtb brake and the Spyres as the roadie version. Their hydro/cable calipers look interesting though.
They do suffer from the same issues as cable discs though. They have a bit of lag in responsiveness. I had to replace a cable with a stock one from my lbs and you can feel the difference in the brakes response. With good cables/housing the brake is noticeably better They also suck with older brifters. Need short pull levers. I had older clothes line style ultegras and the pull was so long in the shifter the levers bottomed out before full engagement. Older SRAM is better I hear. My new 105/hyrd setup is excellent. Lock up 2/3 of lever stroke.
You could use them on mtb with flat bar road levers, but not worth the cost.
__________________
When sadness fills my days
It's time to turn away
And then tomorrow's dreams
Become reality to me
When sadness fills my days
It's time to turn away
And then tomorrow's dreams
Become reality to me
Likes For pyze-guy:
#38
Very Slow Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: E Wa
Posts: 1,274
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Liked 132 Times
in
101 Posts
UPDATE - After discussing the issue with my trusted LBS mechanic, my family, and my pastor, I chose to go with some pretty basic Shimano 2 piston full hydro brakes.
My LBS ordered them but couldn't get them from QBP because QBP and Shimano are out of EVERYTHING right now; they felt bad so they split the difference with me on a set of SRAM Level brakes for a little more $ and offered free install/bleed. Super happy so far! I had to re-center the front after my first really hard ride. I understand these may not be ideal for bikepacking but all my rides are within 10mi of my home so I am happy.
It's amazing how much faster you can ride when there's no drama over stopping!
My LBS ordered them but couldn't get them from QBP because QBP and Shimano are out of EVERYTHING right now; they felt bad so they split the difference with me on a set of SRAM Level brakes for a little more $ and offered free install/bleed. Super happy so far! I had to re-center the front after my first really hard ride. I understand these may not be ideal for bikepacking but all my rides are within 10mi of my home so I am happy.
It's amazing how much faster you can ride when there's no drama over stopping!
#39
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,252
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Liked 2,571 Times
in
1,451 Posts
Huh. I have several sets of BB7s in service for years (one set are actually BBDBs from around '01 or '02) and they are all smooth as silk. Never really had to do much maintenance on them. The BBDBs I've broken down maybe 2 times. Just cleaned and shot some lube in the body.
With the bearings feeling the way they did in the Spykes, no amount of grease was going to save them. They were crap. Even bone dry, new bearings should feel better than these did. If I decide to try them again, it will be from a reputable known dealer. Even if they do cost more.
With the bearings feeling the way they did in the Spykes, no amount of grease was going to save them. They were crap. Even bone dry, new bearings should feel better than these did. If I decide to try them again, it will be from a reputable known dealer. Even if they do cost more.
I saw a decent deal in Nashbar for Spykes, so I figured I’d try another set. These came in the proper packaging, and they seemed legit.
But the bearings were still s#it. I think they were just too tightly preloaded. These were going to be toast in no time. I’m sending them back.
It is a real shame about this model. Brilliant design, but TRP really crapped the bed on the quality control.
Last edited by Kapusta; 07-09-20 at 04:48 PM.
Likes For Kapusta:
#40
Very Slow Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: E Wa
Posts: 1,274
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Liked 132 Times
in
101 Posts
As a follow up to this....
I saw a decent deal in Nashbar for Spykes, so I figured I’d try another set. These came in the proper packaging, and they seemed legit.
But the bearings were still s#it. I think they were just to tightly preloaded. These were going to be toast in no time. I’m sending them back.
It is a real shame about this model. Brilliant design, but TRP really crapped the bed on the quality control.
I saw a decent deal in Nashbar for Spykes, so I figured I’d try another set. These came in the proper packaging, and they seemed legit.
But the bearings were still s#it. I think they were just to tightly preloaded. These were going to be toast in no time. I’m sending them back.
It is a real shame about this model. Brilliant design, but TRP really crapped the bed on the quality control.
Have you thought about Paul Components "Klampers"? They are super beefy with big ball bearings and serviceable everything. They don't actuate on both sides, they're more like a BB7 but beefier. I'd run these if I was bikepacking in the middle of nowhere. They're made in Northern California too I think.
#41
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,252
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Liked 2,571 Times
in
1,451 Posts
Have you thought about Paul Components "Klampers"? They are super beefy with big ball bearings and serviceable everything. They don't actuate on both sides, they're more like a BB7 but beefier. I'd run these if I was bikepacking in the middle of nowhere. They're made in Northern California too I think.
Likes For Kapusta:
#42
Very Slow Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: E Wa
Posts: 1,274
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Liked 132 Times
in
101 Posts
I've read a lot about them. Not really sure I see the point in spending all that extra money for a brake that has the same (and only) drawback as the BB7s. TBH, I've always been pretty happy with BB7s. I like my XT hydros a little better (when they are working 100%), but I still use BB7s on builds.