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Blasptwenty: Overdone, over-complicated mod build for video rig

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Blasptwenty: Overdone, over-complicated mod build for video rig

Old 05-17-20, 09:03 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by mountaindave View Post
This thing just keeps getting crazier and crazier! Canít wait to see the camera gear mounted!
Camera mount will make the rest of the build pale in comparison, that's for sure...

-Kurt
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Old 05-18-20, 06:49 PM
  #177  
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After all, it was free...and it matches the front derailer.




I'm not sure if this suspension lockout lever has the travel necessary to pull the front derailer, but we'll find out tomorrow.

I'm also on the hunt for a Paul Duplex brake lever in black (for a better price than new, obviously). The current $12 Sunlite POS I have clamped onto it right now has one major flaw: The pull of the lever is dependent on each brake cable. If one cable snaps, you lose both brakes. Not a fan.



Also waiting on a longer rear brake cable. 1700mm is about 30mm too short. Not sure what that adjuster barrel is from, but it was in my parts pile and has M4 (I think) threads, which allowed it to fit where the pinch bolt would otherwise go.



The Suntour Swing fork, from factory, has a secondary bolt installed below the damper bolt. It hooks up to the crown of the swinging part of the fork, passes through the upper fixed crown, and floats about 3mm above it. I believe it's there as an emergency stop, if the fork exceeds its uncompressed length of travel. There's no other explanation for it.

At any rate, I needed to hook a steering return spring to this area, so I took that bolt out and replaced it with an eyelet bolt. Serves the same exact function, but it gives me a place to hook up that return spring.



-Kurt
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Old 05-18-20, 06:55 PM
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Why not, works for me!
This bike's arcane without the gear...where's the steadicam mount?

edit...and what's that in the bg...a Biscayne with bias-ply tires, 3 on the tree and armstrong steering? Flashbacks of 1970 for me.

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Old 05-18-20, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman View Post
Why not, works for me!
This bike's arcane without the gear...where's the steadicam mount?

edit...and what's that in the bg...a Biscayne with bias-ply tires, 3 on the tree and armstrong steering? Flashbacks of 1970 for me.
What a couple of years does. I still remember when DA 7800 was the cat's meow for restomods and everyone was kvetching that DA 7900 did away with shiny polished bits.

Camera gear comes after the bike has proven itself. That's when the left side of the bar will get a remote gimbal thumbstick.

'68 Plymouth Satellite de-trimmed as a Belvedere, sitting on 15x7" B-van rims, modern radials, and Mopar power steering that inspired the phrase "keep it between the ditches," because even though it has caster-corrected tubular upper control arms, it still wants to put you in the ditch when you drive it. Wouldn't mind stuffing a manual box on it.

-Kurt
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Old 05-18-20, 07:42 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
'68 Plymouth Satellite de-trimmed as a Belvedere, sitting on 15x7" B-van rims, modern radials, and Mopar power steering that inspired the phrase "keep it between the ditches," because even though it has caster-corrected tubular upper control arms, it still wants to put you in the ditch when you drive it. Wouldn't mind stuffing a manual box on it.

-Kurt
OT but when I got my license, I was driving a '69 Fury III with power everything, white leather, 318, 4 barrel. What a fine car.
One day we went to African Lion Safari in Ontario and the monkeys tore the white vinyl roof off the thing. Crap.
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Old 05-18-20, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman View Post
OT but when I got my license, I was driving a '69 Fury III with power everything, white leather, 318, 4 barrel. What a fine car.
One day we went to African Lion Safari in Ontario and the monkeys tore the white vinyl roof off the thing. Crap.
Those steering boxes behaved better when they were new. Right now, I'm more interested in welding up a cargo bike for my local cargo hauling needs - cheaper

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Old 05-19-20, 09:03 PM
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Wired up the FD. Believe it or not, the fork lockout lever works. It's not exactly easy to press, but it works.

The FD kept snagging the chain on upshifts; shoving it between the inner plate and the inside of the chainring.



Given how low the chain is at the back of the FD (remember, the BB here is higher than the rear drops, not the other way around), I tried replacing the 52t Rotor ring with a 50t. It improved a bit, but the gap is obviously wonky. I think the angle of the front derailer mount isn't aggressive enough, so I've ordered one of those angling shims (which I couldn't order from the US, so it's time to wait a month again).

Given the shape of the frame, I'm surprised I was able to grind the braze-on to fit as well as it does, so I'm not going to complain about it.



-Kurt
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Old 05-20-20, 10:44 PM
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After two weeks of being stuck in the mail, the front cable stop finally arrived. Took a bit of grinding and drilling to get it to work in reverse...but, hey, it works.



Yoke was a pain in the butt to adjust, and it's position forced the head of the mounting bolt to be on the inside:



I'm getting antsy to ride it, so I threw on this Specialized Ass Hatchet saddle for testing.

I'm also going to do away with the Sunlite dual brake lever for a different unit. The collar for both cables sits on a pivot, which allows it to see-saw between whichever cable has the most tension. It's a terrible design that results in zero feel at the lever - plus, if one cable snaps, both of your brakes go. I don't know how a POS like this remains on the market. If the CPSC wants to do something useful, they should ban this thing.



-Kurt
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Old 05-21-20, 09:04 AM
  #184  
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How does it handle? Like no Raleigh 20 you've ever ridden?
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Old 05-21-20, 09:14 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
How does it handle? Like no Raleigh 20 you've ever ridden?
No left crankarm yet. I've scooted it through the living room (a bit difficult with one bike on the trainer and the Spin e-bike in there too), but if a 2-second, low-speed ride is any indication, it's better than a stock Twenty...

...but that's not saying much.

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Old 05-21-20, 10:59 AM
  #186  
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You truly have found the most amazing lipstick!
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Old 05-21-20, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mountaindave View Post
You truly have found the most amazing lipstick!
Come to think of it, I haven't weighed this pig yet. I wonder if all the brass we shoved in the headtube has added all the weight lost with all the aluminum upgrade bits. Maybe it's the power of The eBay Box.

Anyway, another electrifying update of boredom for y'all - the Dutchification spring arrived today from McMaster Carr. I put a bit of heat shrink tubing on it to keep it from making too much noise:




-Kurt
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Old 05-22-20, 06:10 PM
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No pictures for this (and the cable did not arrive today), but I think I've figured out the front derailer issue: The KMC 8.1 chain is incompatible with the ramping on the Rotor chainrings.

I put a different BB on the bike today (unfortunately, too wide), but that had the odd side effect of making the front derailer/chain interference extremely violent. After examining the interaction between the chain and the pinned ramps, it appears as if the Rotor chainring catches the KMC 8.1 a bit too well, sending the subsequent links onto the teeth before they've even cleared the front derailer.

I replaced the KMC chain with the Dura-Ace 9-speed set that came with the derailers, and the problem instantly vanished. So that's one additional issue taken care of - and I didn't even have to shim the FD to do it.

Incidentally, if anyone has a 68x113 Shimano UN55 bottom bracket they'd like to get rid of, I'm listening.

-Kurt
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Old 05-22-20, 10:25 PM
  #189  
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Is this anything you can use?

https://surlybikes.com/parts/singleator
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Old 05-23-20, 07:43 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by arex View Post
Is this anything you can use?

https://surlybikes.com/parts/singleator
Not anymore - the Dura-Ace 7900 RD has turned out to be a downright phenomenal tensioner. Not a single issue or complaint

-Kurt
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Old 05-23-20, 02:16 PM
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Apparently, I didn't remember that I had a 73mm bottom bracket installed in this thing...and the LBS did have a 73x113 Shimano UN55 in stock. The cable also arrived, so after a bit of soldering...

...first test ride! Also, first ride ever. Since the original AW wouldn't engage when I bought it two years ago, this is the first time I've ever ridden it (!).

None of the neighbors were out, so I was able to run a couple of loops for pictures sans-mask:


First impressions: The front end of this thing is fantastic. Obviously, it is slightly whippy given that the headtube and stack is so tall, and the bars so narrow, but nothing worse than what you might find from, say, metric 531. I've never ridden a PX10, but I've ridden the 1979/80 PY10 NY International Bike Show prototype, and the front end handling feels very much like that.

It feels surprisingly stable at the top speed I brought it up to (19.5mph according to the phone GPS) even with one hand. It does tend to shimmy if you're being sloppy with the handling, but I'm certain that is the the fork return spring playing silly buggers with the handling and not the inherent geometry of the design itself. The spring will cause the front end to oscillate unnervingly if you attempt to ride it hands off, but - once again - not a geometry issue. Given what I built this for, I'm glad to give up no-hands riding for the benefit of the spring keeping the fork straight when the whole thing is parked.

This said, it is also extremely smooth and maneuverable at low speed. It is not skittish and doesn't at all resemble a stock Twenty. Nor does it resemble the next thing I own in the small-wheeled department - my 18" Birdy BD-1 (which is more skittish than a trapped rat). As a matter of fact, it is the first small-wheel bike I've ever ridden that feels as if there's a 700C up front, but without the extra rotating mass.



A few things that need to be addressed at the drawing board:

-- The FD isn't quite there yet. I tinkered with it after putting the 113mm bottom bracket on (which fit perfectly), but the lockout lever still remains just shy of pulling the right amount of cable. It also takes so much force to engage it that it slipped on the bars. I may resort to a Suntour bar-end shifter, as I don't think I can fit a thumbie on the curved part of the bar.

-- I think I could improve on the current gear ratios. I know I can crunch gear inches all day on the computer - and I did before building this thing - but what I'm feeling doesn't necessarily match the actual use it'll get in the field. Either that, or I was testing it wrong.

-- As I suspected, the Sunlite dual brake lever is beyond garbage. The front cantilevers close first as their springs are softer than the rear. After that, the rear dual pivot closes up, and the lever then continues to place all braking power on the rear dual pivot. The front cantis are barely given any opportunity to grab. I'm looking forward to the alternate lever that I ordered. It's not the Paul unit, but it'll allow me to adjust the application of both brakes to my liking.

-- Front fender has a mind of its own and occasionally rubs the tire just a tiny bit. Doesn't play nice no matter what I do with it. Might have to secure it to the brake stiffener.

-- I received an Ursus Jumbo 80 from Amazon today - the 300mm unit, as the 275 is nowhere to be found in the US. Sure enough, it arrived with a chip in it, so the kickstand install will have to wait until Sunday...or longer, if they send me another damaged one. At any rate, it appears as if the 300mm stand will work just fine.



I particularly like this warning on the box:



I guess that leaves me out.

Anyway, once all the kinks are out and the Brooks is on, it'll be time to work on the fun stuff: Making the custom mounts and throwing various lensy things at it.

-Kurt
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Old 05-23-20, 05:46 PM
  #192  
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It just dawned on me that I never shared the BikeSafe Trail Review videos that were shot from my brown Twenty - and were, in part, the inspiration for building this bike. Andrew and Mateo are neighbors and volunteered to host.



-Kurt
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Old 05-23-20, 07:17 PM
  #193  
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Very slick Kurt. Nice job on the footage shot from the twenty as well!
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Old 05-24-20, 04:17 PM
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:sigh: Thank you for nothing, Amazon.



And yes, I get it. It's minor when all is said and done - but when you spend $80 for a kickstand, you expect it to be perfect.

-Kurt
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Old 05-27-20, 10:21 PM
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Well, it's the week for errors. My new brake lever came in, but instead of looking like this one:



...I received the same lever I already have on the bike. It goes back. I think I found the correct one again on eBay, but it's also badged Sunlite, so no telling if J&B Importers changed the product recently.

As for the kickstand, third time's the charm. At least, it seemed. No cracks this time.

But.



Houston...we have a new problem. It really is as low as it looks, and it does scrape while cornering.



-Kurt
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Old 05-29-20, 08:07 AM
  #196  
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New plan (and an ironic one, given how many damaged kickstands I just went through): If I mill/sand down the kickstand mounting surface with a 5 or 6 degree sloping angle to the back, I can effectively tilt the entire kickstand, raising the rear feet. Since this will also kink the mounting bolt, I've ordered an M10 stainless steel leveling washer (just a big version of the cupped washers used on V-brake pads) for the upper bolt from McMaster Carr.

Fingers crossed this works. I may shorten the kickstand eventually, but I know I can make a fairly significant change simply by tilting the stand.




-Kurt
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Old 05-30-20, 07:39 PM
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The kickstand clears the road now...and the chain now drags on it when in the 50t ring.

I took off too much.

Or, in other words, "Today, I ruined a brand-new $80 kickstand."


****NEW PLAN, COLIN CHAPMAN STYLE****

Theory: There's nothing wrong with the kickstand. There's everything wrong with the needlessly complicated dual-drive setup and the front brake.
  • The entire current drivetrain gets scrapped in favor of a Sturmey-Archer FW 4-speed. Dumping the tensioner will mean the chain will not have any reason to touch the kickstand again. No more dual shifters that don't fit. I'll have to find a 4-speed trigger shifter, but they're my favorite to use...so I shouldn't complain.
  • The front cantilevers get replaced with Tektro short-arm 926A's. I have a feeling I'll never be able to adjust the cantis correctly given the amount of travel I have at the cable stop. Plus, setting the cantis up with that reverse stop is one of the biggest pains in the butt I've dealt with recently.
  • If the alternate Sunlite lever that arrives on Monday doesn't work, this thing gets a Paul Duplex front brake lever whether it likes it or not. I'm sick of wasting money on el-cheapo alternatives.
-Kurt
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Old 06-02-20, 03:57 PM
  #198  
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Here's something interesting: The only Sturmey-Archer FW 4-speed I have kicking around here was pieced together from random spare parts I bought from the LBS about 10 years ago:



There was about enough in here to build an FW, with exception to the two special clutch keys - easy enough to fabricate from AW keys - and the tiny "Collar for Compensator Spring," a.k.a. part X.8, also found on the famous ASC hub.

Mark Stonich sent me this diagram of it so I could make my own - hope he doesn't mind my reposting it here, for I'm trying - without the benefit of having the part here - to show just how small this part is.

Despite having a gazillion tools around, I don't have machining tools. Best I can do is to get something similar and file it down.



I knew that 3D printing it would cost more than it should, and would require hours of finishing...and then I found this at McMaster Carr:



With a bit of material shaved off and the shaft diameter opened up a bit, it should work perfectly. I'm hoping the Oilite can tolerate the compensator spring in operation.

-Kurt
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Old 06-03-20, 07:36 AM
  #199  
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Kurt, this has to be the most complicated build/conversion/custom modification ever--- on any bike, let alone a Raleigh 20!
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Old 06-03-20, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
Kurt, this has to be the most complicated build/conversion/custom modification ever--- on any bike, let alone a Raleigh 20!
Not really. In fact, the deletion of the derailer drivetrain and the eventual removal of the centerpulls for short-reach V-brake levers may turn this mad build into something much more sensible.

Modifying the 4-speed though, well - that's what you do when you're dealing with 50-year-old non-supported tech.

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