Nikefutbolero

So my wife and I got Sirrus X 3.0's relatively cheap and like them but want to upgrade the groupset to the Tiagra and add drop bars. Question is, I'm not sure exactly what I'd need. This is what I'm assuming I'd need.
-Drop bar
-Drop bar levers
-Front derailer
-rear derailer
-crankset
-rear cassette
-we already have disk brakes so i'm assuming I only need the new calipers
-chain

Is this it or am I missing something? Would I need a new bottom bracket? Freehub?

Also, do I get a medium or short cage rear derailer? And is the front brazed on or clamped on?

Sorry for all the questions. Trying to figure this out and buy the parts to have the bike shop install them.
Thanks!

sh00k

you can go that route or simply buy a new/used bike for cheaper than having to redo the drive train on this one. just a thought. and if you're having the bike shop do it, they will give you a list of parts needed along with the prices to buy+install them.

Nikefutbolero

I get that but swapping out the groupset on this bike would still put me well under the cost of an entry level gravel bike like the Diverge, and with a better groupset in the Tiagra instead of the Claris.

tyrion

You're proposing something pretty expensive. It might be less expensive if you could find a used donor bike that had the parts you want. If you're going to buy new parts, I'd go with Shimano GRX. I think the GRX 400 series is on the level of Tiagra.

Forgive the unsolicited advice, but I think I better way to upgrade your bike is to get tubeless wheels and tires. Then you could have a road wheelset and a gravel wheelset.

hokiefyd 

How old is your bike? The current model comes with hydraulic brakes. Are your brakes hydraulic as well, or mechanical? I guess you'll be using Tiagra 4700 stuff? You shouldn't need a new rear freehub in any event. Regarding the bottom bracket, I guess it depends on what you have now and what you'll need for the Tiagra crank. If your current bottom bracket is Hollowtech II, then you should be okay.

As for your front derailleur, look at the frame to see if it has a band clamp around the seat tube or if it's affixed with a bolt. That'll tell you whether it's a clamp-on or a braze-on. If your bike is already a 1x, then you could use either style -- a clamp-on would clamp directly to your frame, and a braze-on would be bolted to an adapter that you'd need to buy (search for "braze on adapter" and you'll find them aplenty). Measure your frame to determine the seat tube size -- it's like a 34.9mm, but it could be something else.

Laseranimal

Is there a specific reason you want drop bars? You could significantly lower the cost if you kept the flat bars. Then you're just swapping cassette, RD, crankset, shifters, and chain. I'd also say that tires are going to make a way bigger difference than any of the changes you're proposing

mikehuangsd

What is your motivation to change the groupset? I don't think there will be any discernible performance improvements between Claris and Tiagra. As you progress up the Shimano hierarchy of groupsets, you lose maybe 1/4 to 1/2 lb of weight per jump, and that's if you upgrade the entire groupset, and that's pretty much it. They all work fine (and no, I do not believe anyone who says that their Dura-Ace group shifts 'crisper' than Claris or Tiagra or Sora). Anyway, I digress.

I'm not judging - I modify/upgrade my numerous bikes constantly (i actually just finished converting a hybrid to gravel) - but it's more an exercise in entertainment than for any true performance improvements.

BruceA78

That is a good looking bike! What year is it?

jimmyodonnell

I've been riding a new Sirrus X for about a month, I use it about 80% offroad and 20% on pavement.
I wrestled for a few weeks before deciding to buy it, because I'd never ridden gravel and wondered if I'd find the upright position too slow and cumbersome for the pace I was hoping to attain on gravel. I also wanted the bike to handle well on pavement, although I have a lightweight road bike for that primary purpose.

Well the offroad areas I'm riding are all service roads surfaced mostly with crushed limestone, and are so gnarly and rocky I can't imagine riding the slimmer tires or drop bars that are standard on true gravel bikes.

The Sirrus X has been very worthy offroad. The only question that remained is whether I would've been better off with a suspension fork . . . but I opted not to buy a suspension model because I didn't want the dampening when I ride pavement. This bike has futureshock, and it gives me enough dampening that it suits these gravel routes. I see guys riding true gravel bikes on one section of my route, but they don't cover the more difficult sections of the loop I'm riding. I've certainly improved my bike handling, trying to avoid the larger rocks in the tougher sections of the route. My backup choice was a Canyon Pathlite, but it hans't been available in my sizing for a few months so I opted for the Sirrus X4.

Maybe your intended gravel routes are smoother than mine, but you might find the Sirrus X is satisfying equipped for gravel riding if your route has technical challenges.

Aonex

Recommend selling your bike and just buying a gravel bike. There's a shortage of hybrid bikes like yours right now, I'm sure you can easily find a buyer.

Nikefutbolero

Nice bike! I just prefer the width and multiple hand positions of drop bars over flat bars especially on the road. Also, I just realized im 1X so now im looking at the SRAM Apex 1. .

Laseranimal

Ergon GP3 or GP4 grips should give you what you're looking for in terms of multiple hand positions. I mean look at the new Diverge EVO, it might as well be a hard tail mountain bike. The geometry is different than the Sirrus, but by modeling some of the components on the Diverge EVO you could havea gravel bike that will be a bit more fun to ride on the tarmac

mikehuangsd

Thank you!

I believe the first year the Schwinn Tourist came out was 2008, but in a different paint scheme. I recently found "2012" stamped on the seatpost, so maybe it's a 2012. It was a Craigslist purchase just for this conversion, so I don't know any more than that.
.

badger1

Seriously: as a couple others have suggested, this is really not a good idea. You'd do much better simply to negotiate trade-in/sell your Sirrus bikes on, and buy a fit-for-purpose drop bar bike (or bikes), if that's what you want.

Two reasons. First, the expense. You are, I think, underestimating what this will cost. Second: even if you get a 'good deal', the bike(s) will never be quite 'right'. The Sirrus(es) you have is designed to be a flat-bar bike -- longer front-centre, etc. relative to its drop-bar cousin the Diverge. You'll end up with a stupid-short stem, and even then it still won't fit correctly.

But, that's just me; friendly advice. Me? I'm a 'flat bar/bar ends' guy, but if I wanted a drop-bar bike, that's what I would buy from the get-go. If I were you, I'd cut my losses.

Speedway2

Op....if you make all those changes....IMO it's beyond "gravel-like".
Do it right and trade in your current bike for a properly designed gravel-bike.
However, it's your $$$....have at it.

CharlesDennison

Hi OP,
Did you ever do this conversion? I have 2021 Sirrus x3.0 and I would like to upgrade the tires to handle sand/gravel better. I would like to be able to safely manage Florida dirt roads without fear of falling on each sandy area. I'd like to know what tires you were able to upgrade to. Thanks!

Laseranimal

I did a conversion of my Sirrus Sport. Did the drop bar first, added 35mm gravel king SK’s, and now I’ve ditched the FD and am running 1x9 with a 42 up front and 11-34 in the back. Living in Florida I don’t need a ton of range.

I think the next thing I want to do is go to a 38mm Gravel King SS. I don’t really ride a ton of muddy stuff and think the wider and faster SS would be a better fit for the terrain I ride

CharlesDennison

Thanks, LaserAnimal. I will check those tires out.

CharlesDennison

LaserAnimal,
If I'm not mistaken you swapped out the wheels and not just the tire as well? Did you did this for clearance or out of necessity?
TY

Laseranimal

Wheel upgrade was because stock Sirrus wheels are heavy garbage and wouldn’t stay true. Much happier with the DT Swiss. Doesn’t change anything in terms of what tires I can run

CharlesDennison

thanks, that helps

Fentuz

@charlesdennison what do you intend to do? This will impact many things such as tyre choice, wheel size (700c or 650b) and required groupset range

CharlesDennison

I have a nice hardtail for trail and mtb single tracks. With this commuter bike, I currently do 90% Paved/10% Dirt (2k in 4 months), because I often have to walk it through very sandy areas (Panhandle of Florida). I live in a rural county (Jackson) with far more dirt roads as compared to safe paved roads or bike trails (none). I want to make that more like 50 paved/50 dirt during the dry season. If it has been raining, I'll use the hardtail. So, I'm mainly focusing on the tires replacement for the commuter.

Fentuz

Depending of the frame, you could try Continental race king, I rolls very well, is large so very comfortable... when I was 70kg, I run 50-584 race king @28 psi and it was shifting (I'm 64 now and run it @ 25psi). But while I love this tyre, it doesn't like thorn and I must say that Schwalbe G-One bite 45-622 (exists in slimmer sizes) was good on dry dirt (not in mud).
either way, the advantage of gravel tyres should be large volume for comfort while still rolling well (like a dry race XC tyre).
this site may help you to choose https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/


Then there is the range with the groupset, many prefer 2x because of their roady background; in my small experience, 2x tends to have similar overall range as 1x gravel but 2x uses a "closer ratio" cassette (11-30 or 11-36) like road cassette and 2 chainrings so that people get the range. I prefer 1x with a wide range (11-46 or 9-46 or 10-50) for its simplicity and last week I actually built a bike which is 1x9 with gravel/hybrid tyres and gear gaps similar to the ones on my 1x11. The 1x9 has the same gearinch as the 1x11 - gear 1 and gear 11.
The cassette range is important to consider in a 1x and then, you choose the chainring depending where and how you want to ride (low speed/high cadence/hilly or high speed/low cadence/flat)

fishboat

@Nikefutbolero
With due respect, given the questions you're asking, you need to do a whole lot more research on DB conversions and bike mechanics in general. I wouldn't advise you do a DB conversion on your bikes. It'll be a cash hemorrhage and can of worms. You'd be time and money ahead to buy gravel-type bikes if you think you need them.