rccardr 

Yes, a 130mm rear hub will slide easillyninto your 126 or 128mm rear dropouts. It’s onlly a few mm., done it literally dozens of times on many Cannondales without any problems after tens of thousands of miles.
Realignment of the dropout is not necessary.

Headset is a normal 1inch threaded item, available pretty much everywhere. Crown race is 26.4mm, get that right and the rest falls into place.

Seatpost on these frames is the very popular 27.2 mm.

pmferna

Cool! Thanks! I'm trying to post a picture but there are too many rules in the forum. I will post later.

joejack951

Cannondales have stiffer chainstays than most steel frames but they will still flex easily enough to accommodate the wider hub. I did the calculation once, as someone had posted some fear-mongering link off the internet suggesting that bad things would happen if the dropouts were not realigned. IIRC, assuming the dropouts were perfectly straight to start (unlikely), they'd sit at ~0.5 degrees after being stretched. If you can eyeball that, you are better than me! As noted already, don't even think twice about it. It will be fine.

I can't let a question go by about going threadless on a vintage frame without commenting, or at least inserting a pic. Below is an SR500 I built up on a budget using some Mavic wheels (early 2000s but Mavic got lucky and made them with a freehub that accepts modern 11 speed cassettes) and Shimano 105 5800. The headset is something I designed allowing threadless stems to be cleanly fitted to threaded forks. These old fat-tubed Cannondales work well for this type of conversion, in my opinion. I left it uncut for this pic but the stem can be 'slammed' down on top of the upper bearing or fitted with up to 50mm of spacers as shown.

pmferna

Looks great! I can't see the detail of the spacers. Any suggestions on where to find the parts for a similar headset? It's probably one thing I may invest this season. I think I can leave with the current wheels, hubs, derailleurs, etc. for now. Thanks for the added confirmation on the advice for a modern hub. I will definitely make plans for an upgrade.

pmferna

As it is now before any modification. Well, I put new tires and new tubes and cleaned it a little.

pmferna

Some pics of the B-screw below. Let me know if you have any advice on how to handle it. Thanks!

rccardr 

Not sure what the problem is there. Does the B screw drop off the bottom of the dropout?
If so, I’d be tempted to remove the RD and GENTLY bend the tab to bring the screw is closer. If the tab collar then rubs on the dropout, file away a little bit of the tab until it clears.

You chain may also be a little too long.

Homebrew01

Are the RSX shifters 9 speed ? Is the rear wheel also 9 speed now ?

Homebrew01

I broke one too. I was fortunate to have access to a TIG welder, and a donor dropout, so I made a clean cut in the dropout, cut the hanger off the donor dropout, and TIG welded it back together. I still ride the bike.

pmferna

It's hard to see in the picture, but at a certain point, the B-screw only lands half of its tip on the dropout. As you screw it more, it has less and less of the tip touching the bottom. I'm afraid I'm not as experienced as a bike mechanic as many of you to understand what gently means.

It's been too long since I worked on a bike, and it's taking me forever to clean and repair things! Frustrating at times when there are so many mismatching components on this bike from the previous owner. I had already put new tubes and tires, and this weekend I replaced all the brake and shift cables, replaced the aero brakes with the Shimano RSX STI ST-A410 (After disassembling the hood, cleaning the gunky old grease, and greasing it back), replaced the Dia Compe calipers with Shimano RSX. Replaced the old and nasty bar tape, and the old 6-speed freewheel with a Shimano 7-speed 14-28t Freewheel. The result (you'll see why I'm a newbie and desperately looking for help when all the bike shops are saturated):

Front derailleur doesn't shift to the larger chainring. I tried everything! The left STI looks like it doesn't have 3 speeds. I only use the largest chairing in my rides anyway, so, for the moment, I "trapped" the derailleur to the largest chainring. The right seems to work fine shifting. I can really tell it has all the 7-speeds. But, I can't get to the smallest cog, and the chain keeps trying to get to the largest cog and when it does, it jumps out of the freewheel. I tried all the adjustments, including cable tension, and nothing works well. Put back the old freewheel, and it's way smoother. I can ride for now but would like help from people to find a way to align the components without breaking the bank. New wheels are expensive, and I'm thinking of looking for used options as well as looking for a set of back and front derailleurs and crank that would work well with the STI shifters I just installed.

Here's an updated pic:

pmferna

See my reply above. The RSX shifters were supposed to be 3x7, but I'm guessing they're 2x7, or the left has the 3rd "leg" broken

rccardr 

You need a knowledgeable friend in Illinois. We could fix this in my home shop in about fifteen minutes.
Hard to do it by remote.

pmferna

Bummer! I even went to a local bike shop, but the guy was so overwhelmed with the current demand that he gave me a "not sure what to do with your problem" answer. I was having fun with the project until I wasn't. And the information I can find is so confusing!

Prowler 

I can relate to that shop guy. I worked at our LBS today - typical day. The phone starts ringing 2 hours before we open and does not stop all day, two lines. Keeps ringing for an hour after we close. The people are many and milling about outside the door all day without a break, some in masks, some distancing. Most of them are in a pretty good mood and understand but some expect "special services". Sir, we have a list of 115 people ahead of you. I cannot help you right now. "Well I have a big ride tomorrow. You have to do this now!"

We end each day further behind than when we started. The owner has pulled out all the hair he had and the mechanics are real tired. Starts again the next day.

Not or a good time to need creative help on a vintage bike. Who knows when.....

pmferna

You're being unreasonable and didn't get my point. I acknowledge the bike shops have been overwhelmed and was not trying to put blame on the person that saw my bike. Just sad I couldn't solve the problem alone and that it's been tougher now with the current scenario. I also didn't say that I needed it to be fixed now. I can see it happening, and I'm sorry that you have to deal with that kind of person. Don't we all have that some point? It can be frustrating working on a place that for most things you used to have a solution, now all you have is to deal with a low inventory of parts and tons of people on your front steps. If I was you, I would be glad I had a job in high demand. At the end of the day, people are working so many hours because there's money to be made now than at any other time in their lives in this industry. That might not happen the same way later. I wish the guy would have said something like, hey, it's being crazy lately, why don't we schedule an appointment so you can drop your bike and we can look at it to give you a couple of solutions? He just turned me down. Most likely I will never knock on his door again.

joejack951

Sorry for my slow reply. If you would like to get your hands on the same headset, search 'innicycle' on Amazon but only if you want silver. If you want black, get in touch with me directly, and soon. I'm nearly out of stock and production of more units will take some time. Word of warning, these generally don't go on budget builds. It's a niche product with a lot of precision CNC'd components and carries a price that reflects it. Most feel it's worth the money; others not so much. To each their own. I wanted to create the best solution for running threadless stems with an original threaded steel fork and this is the result. If you compare the cost of a high end (Cane Creek 110 or Chris King) headset plus a threadless adapter, the price isn't so bad. Relative to just a $20 threadless adapter, it stings a bit.

pmferna

No worries! It looks really nice. I'm adding to my list of parts for a future project. After some snags with mismatched components right now, I'll focus on working on anything that's not working well. I got a bit frustrated and that a lot is out of our control for a while, and we need to work with what's available. I appreciate the information. Thanks!

aceves 

My 1997 Cannondale F700, just finished it. 1x8 drivetrain, new tires, new saddle, new grips. Great ride!!

aceves

Wes in Missouri

I was meeting a guy for a set of wheels and ended up getting this for $125 for my daughter. It needs tires, tubes and bar tape.

This is the after picture. Rides like a dream.

This was the unexpected donor bike. I saw it at a garage sale and had to stop and look. It turned out to have a new set of tires the size we needed and for some reason it had a Mavic front rim that is a perfect match for the back rim on the Cannondale . Bought it for $25. This is it after I put some tires and a wheel that I had laying around on it.

trailmix

trailmix

Very nice

bargo68 

Thanks! It's a sweet ride.

RiddleOfSteel

These anthracite colored ST1000s remain one of my Grail touring bikes. I mean, I'll take a black T1000 or ST1000, because the top is still the top, but there is something iconic about the anthracite. I've had my taste of the ST life with a few of them, but still look for a local one like this, just in 25" size. It'll join the party with my '83 Specialized Expedition, which is an epic bike in its own right.

bargo68 

Funnily, I've never ridden with it fully loaded. When I take it on my commute, there's a segment that I TT if the wind is not too bad, and this bike has my fastest effort! With knobby 32mm Panaracer's! Plus it has gotten a lot of looks and many appreciative comments from locals.
Another plus is it will make a great rain bike.

fleslider 

heres my 63cm 1992 T1000 during a ride a little while back..