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Garbage Tektro Mech Disc Brake Replacement - (POTENTIAL RABBIT HOLE)

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Garbage Tektro Mech Disc Brake Replacement - (POTENTIAL RABBIT HOLE)

Old 05-06-20, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by davei1980 View Post

Side note - my levers do have two anchor points, it shipped with the cable attached to the canti postion. I moved to the V brake position (less mech leverage) and they do feel better and I can no longer bottom them out. Jeff Jones says you can use either position on the levers but I disagree and so does Tektro.
Yikes, yeah that makes more than a little difference. There is a different version of each caliper for each pull (Spyke / Spyre for instance)
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Old 05-06-20, 03:16 PM
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BB7s are the gold standard for cable disc brakes. That's all I've used on my bikes and if I get a bike that has another brand, I order BB7 brake and SD-7 levers, full housing when possible. Outside of that, Shimano SLX/XT for hydros which can be had for less if you get a previous year model.
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Old 05-06-20, 03:23 PM
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I love my BB7s as well, but they old tech. Great for casual ride bike for me but don't have the power and modulation I demand after using hydros. Though I hear the new hybrids with the cable actuated hydro calipers are worth considering. They don't need bleeding with the frequency of full hydros and has the tweakability of cable. Has anyone had personal experience with them?
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Old 05-06-20, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by commo_soulja View Post
BB7s are the gold standard for cable disc brakes. That's all I've used on my bikes and if I get a bike that has another brand, I order BB7 brake and SD-7 levers, full housing when possible. Outside of that, Shimano SLX/XT for hydros which can be had for less if you get a previous year model.
BB7= Single piston, compromise design to cope with uneven pad and disc wear, need constant adjustment when used heavily because of the uneven pad and disc wear.
You should try Spyres or Spykes.
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Old 05-06-20, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevtassie View Post
BB7= Single piston, compromise design to cope with uneven pad and disc wear, need constant adjustment when used heavily because of the uneven pad and disc wear.
You should try Spyres or Spykes.
After too many hassles with my XTs, I bought a set of Spykes recently. The bearings in the lever arm felt like they were made of sand. Did not even mount them, I sent them back. Maybe these were a fluke, and I have suspicions that they may not have been legit (there are a bunch on ebay for ~60% or normal price, no original packaging.... hmm).

I've read mixed reviews on them. A few people mention that the pad adjuster knobs do not stay put without locktite (which makes them hard to adjust). Sounds like these are great when they work, though.
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Old 05-06-20, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Kapusta View Post
After too many hassles with my XTs, I bought a set of Spykes recently. The bearings in the lever arm felt like they were made of sand. Did not even mount them, I sent them back. Maybe these were a fluke, and I have suspicions that they may not have been legit (there are a bunch on ebay for ~60% or normal price, no original packaging.... hmm).

I've read mixed reviews on them. A few people mention that the pad adjuster knobs do not stay put without locktite (which makes them hard to adjust). Sounds like these are great when they work, though.
Yep, there are fakes of both around. The fake Spykes seem OK when you open them up in terms of mechanics, but they seem to have forgotten to grease them and put loctite on the adjusting screws. Once you do that, they work fine. TRP say you can't dissasemble them, but there are instructions on line and it's as simple to do as a BB7. I use automotive disc brake grease, rated to 1600C, only a tiny amount, you can buy little sachets from auto parts stores.. The stock pads were also junk. One of the things with Spykes/Spyres is that you shouldn't really need to adjust them that often, TRP say to take up pad wear with the cable adjuster. Pretty well I've just used the adjusters to set them up initially for different thickness discs then compensate for pad wear with the cable, which is different to the BB7s, you need to adjust them with the adjusters because as the pads wear the disc gets distorted more as it's pushed sideways onto the fixed pad. I think if you constantly used the adjusters on TRPs the loctite would eventually lose it's lock properties. Centering on TRP is done with the mounting bolts. I got a set of 2 with 180mm discs and adapters off Aliexpress for $80 including postage, so yeah chances of them being real weren't super high.. I also got a "cheap" BB7 from Aliexpress.. It was somewhat similar to the fake TRPs, virtually no grease inside and some fairly average mechanics, works OK with a service... I run Spykes on the front and BB7s on the rear of our touring bikes, just because that's what I had lying around.
I'd say that any mechanical brake needs servicing, all the genuine and non genuine I've opened after some use need some grease in the balls and ramps. On the BB7 the moving pad pivot could do with some grease too.
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Old 05-06-20, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevtassie View Post
Yep, there are fakes of both around. The fake Spykes seem OK when you open them up in terms of mechanics, but they seem to have forgotten to grease them and put loctite on the adjusting screws. Once you do that, they work fine. TRP say you can't dissasemble them, but there are instructions on line and it's as simple to do as a BB7. I use automotive disc brake grease, rated to 1600C, only a tiny amount, you can buy little sachets from auto parts stores.. The stock pads were also junk. One of the things with Spykes/Spyres is that you shouldn't really need to adjust them that often, TRP say to take up pad wear with the cable adjuster. Pretty well I've just used the adjusters to set them up initially for different thickness discs then compensate for pad wear with the cable, which is different to the BB7s, you need to adjust them with the adjusters because as the pads wear the disc gets distorted more as it's pushed sideways onto the fixed pad. I think if you constantly used the adjusters on TRPs the loctite would eventually lose it's lock properties. Centering on TRP is done with the mounting bolts. I got a set of 2 with 180mm discs and adapters off Aliexpress for $80 including postage, so yeah chances of them being real weren't super high.. I also got a "cheap" BB7 from Aliexpress.. It was somewhat similar to the fake TRPs, virtually no grease inside and some fairly average mechanics, works OK with a service... I run Spykes on the front and BB7s on the rear of our touring bikes, just because that's what I had lying around.
I'd say that any mechanical brake needs servicing, all the genuine and non genuine I've opened after some use need some grease in the balls and ramps. On the BB7 the moving pad pivot could do with some grease too.
Huh. I have several sets of BB7s in service for years (one set are actually BBDBs from around '01 or '02) and they are all smooth as silk. Never really had to do much maintenance on them. The BBDBs I've broken down maybe 2 times. Just cleaned and shot some lube in the body.

With the bearings feeling the way they did in the Spykes, no amount of grease was going to save them. They were crap. Even bone dry, new bearings should feel better than these did. If I decide to try them again, it will be from a reputable known dealer. Even if they do cost more.
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Old 05-07-20, 06:53 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Trevtassie View Post
BB7= Single piston, compromise design to cope with uneven pad and disc wear, need constant adjustment when used heavily because of the uneven pad and disc wear.
You should try Spyres or Spykes.
Hmm, I've never used nor even considered TRPs cable disc brakes. All my BB7 equipped bikes are hardtails with 180/160 rotors and they've always performed well for me. I'm refurbishing an old Ibis HT and I'll try out the TRPs. Looks like TRP markets the Spykes as the mtb brake and the Spyres as the roadie version. Their hydro/cable calipers look interesting though.
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Old 05-07-20, 10:43 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by commo_soulja View Post
Hmm, I've never used nor even considered TRPs cable disc brakes. All my BB7 equipped bikes are hardtails with 180/160 rotors and they've always performed well for me. I'm refurbishing an old Ibis HT and I'll try out the TRPs. Looks like TRP markets the Spykes as the mtb brake and the Spyres as the roadie version. Their hydro/cable calipers look interesting though.
Yep - Spyke = long linear pull version
Spyre = short pull version to work with most brifter

Neighbor has them on both his gravel bikes. pretty sweet. Not sure about the bad experiences listed above but I go through my LBS on just about everything and try to avoid AliExpress/Wish etc.
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Old 05-08-20, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Kapusta View Post
After too many hassles with my XTs, I bought a set of Spykes recently. The bearings in the lever arm felt like they were made of sand. Did not even mount them, I sent them back. Maybe these were a fluke, and I have suspicions that they may not have been legit (there are a bunch on ebay for ~60% or normal price, no original packaging.... hmm).
.
I just got notice of a refund from the seller. THeir eBay name is "bikeitnow", but the refund came from someone whose name is all Chinese characters.

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Old 05-17-20, 07:47 PM
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I had trp spyres(road bike version) for years on my cx, super easy to set up,way easier then bb7s. Used both road and mtb versions. Never had an issue with bearings. Only thing I didn’t like was the pad adjusters would shake loose over time. Easily solved though. Biggest issue is they cost about the same as a really good prebled set of hydro brakes. Not sure I would get cable brakes when a set of m6000 arent much more in price.

I switched my bb7s on my mtb recently to Hydro Deore m615. Work great for me. I’m around 210lb and have no issues stopping, great modulation, easy setup and install/bleed. I put them on and took about 5 minute to bed the pads and was in the trails. They were a lucky find, oem takeoffs I picked up for $100.
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Old 05-17-20, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by commo_soulja View Post
Hmm, I've never used nor even considered TRPs cable disc brakes. All my BB7 equipped bikes are hardtails with 180/160 rotors and they've always performed well for me. I'm refurbishing an old Ibis HT and I'll try out the TRPs. Looks like TRP markets the Spykes as the mtb brake and the Spyres as the roadie version. Their hydro/cable calipers look interesting though.
I have the hy/rds on my cx bike. Offer the best, (and worst) of both worlds. Compared to my road bb7s and spyres, much easier to setup, same as hydros. Squeeze lever, tighten caliper and go. Modulation as not as good as full hydro, but much, much better than full cable. Way cheaper than switching to full hydro, and I was impressed with stock pads and rotors. I use this bike on the same single track I ride my mtb and the brakes are really good. Really good in the wet with only minor squeal from the rear. Supposed to be super easy to bleed as well.
They do suffer from the same issues as cable discs though. They have a bit of lag in responsiveness. I had to replace a cable with a stock one from my lbs and you can feel the difference in the brakes response. With good cables/housing the brake is noticeably better They also suck with older brifters. Need short pull levers. I had older clothes line style ultegras and the pull was so long in the shifter the levers bottomed out before full engagement. Older SRAM is better I hear. My new 105/hyrd setup is excellent. Lock up 2/3 of lever stroke.
You could use them on mtb with flat bar road levers, but not worth the cost.
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Old 07-09-20, 12:54 PM
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UPDATE - After discussing the issue with my trusted LBS mechanic, my family, and my pastor, I chose to go with some pretty basic Shimano 2 piston full hydro brakes.

My LBS ordered them but couldn't get them from QBP because QBP and Shimano are out of EVERYTHING right now; they felt bad so they split the difference with me on a set of SRAM Level brakes for a little more $ and offered free install/bleed. Super happy so far! I had to re-center the front after my first really hard ride. I understand these may not be ideal for bikepacking but all my rides are within 10mi of my home so I am happy.

It's amazing how much faster you can ride when there's no drama over stopping!
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Old 07-09-20, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Kapusta View Post
Huh. I have several sets of BB7s in service for years (one set are actually BBDBs from around '01 or '02) and they are all smooth as silk. Never really had to do much maintenance on them. The BBDBs I've broken down maybe 2 times. Just cleaned and shot some lube in the body.

With the bearings feeling the way they did in the Spykes, no amount of grease was going to save them. They were crap. Even bone dry, new bearings should feel better than these did. If I decide to try them again, it will be from a reputable known dealer. Even if they do cost more.
As a follow up to this....

I saw a decent deal in Nashbar for Spykes, so I figured I’d try another set. These came in the proper packaging, and they seemed legit.

But the bearings were still s#it. I think they were just too tightly preloaded. These were going to be toast in no time. I’m sending them back.

It is a real shame about this model. Brilliant design, but TRP really crapped the bed on the quality control.

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Old 07-09-20, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Kapusta View Post
As a follow up to this....

I saw a decent deal in Nashbar for Spykes, so I figured Id try another set. These came in the proper packaging, and they seemed legit.

But the bearings were still s#it. I think they were just to tightly preloaded. These were going to be toast in no time. Im sending them back.

It is a real shame about this model. Brilliant design, but TRP really crapped the bed on the quality control.
Sucks to hear! I wonder if their Spyre cousins suffer from to same issues? I agree, awesome design to maximize braking force from a mechanical caliper but too bad, like you said.

Have you thought about Paul Components "Klampers"? They are super beefy with big ball bearings and serviceable everything. They don't actuate on both sides, they're more like a BB7 but beefier. I'd run these if I was bikepacking in the middle of nowhere. They're made in Northern California too I think.
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Old 07-09-20, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by davei1980 View Post
Sucks to hear! I wonder if their Spyre cousins suffer from to same issues? I agree, awesome design to maximize braking force from a mechanical caliper but too bad, like you said.
I have not heard of this in regards to the Spyres. In fact, when this came up before, others with Spyres have said theirs are perfectly smooth. This may just be a bad run of Spykes, I don't really know. There are not many reviews out there for Spykes, but none mention this issue. Tons more reviews and people with experience with Spyres.

Originally Posted by davei1980 View Post
Have you thought about Paul Components "Klampers"? They are super beefy with big ball bearings and serviceable everything. They don't actuate on both sides, they're more like a BB7 but beefier. I'd run these if I was bikepacking in the middle of nowhere. They're made in Northern California too I think.
I've read a lot about them. Not really sure I see the point in spending all that extra money for a brake that has the same (and only) drawback as the BB7s. TBH, I've always been pretty happy with BB7s. I like my XT hydros a little better (when they are working 100%), but I still use BB7s on builds.
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Old 07-09-20, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Kapusta View Post
I've read a lot about them. Not really sure I see the point in spending all that extra money for a brake that has the same (and only) drawback as the BB7s. TBH, I've always been pretty happy with BB7s. I like my XT hydros a little better (when they are working 100%), but I still use BB7s on builds.
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