Show Off your Track Training and Racing Bikes (2014+)
#877
Full Member
#878
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PHL
Posts: 9,948
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
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194 Posts
I liked my TK2 a lot when I had it. The lip around the track ends annoyed me because it made it tough to get a wrench on the nuts, but aside from that, great frame.
#879
Full Member
I notice that too, always wondered why the lip is big right there. Was assuming it's purposeful to stiffen the dropouts under load, but maybe it's just the only way they could weld the chainstay and seatstay connections, the way they have it configured. There are other ways to make those tube junctions, but they must've had a good reason for doing it this way----such as, keeping costs low, while keeping strength and durability high. Reasonable. I guess I can't complain, damned affordable frame and plenty good, so that may be my only complaint.
Last edited by Super D; 09-25-19 at 02:05 PM.
#883
Reliable, steady, easy to setup, change batteries and calibrate, rigid, long lasting batteries, etc. - compatible with a lot of computer heads (I use Cycleops Joules because I have Powertaps).
Will keep them both - I have a 170 and a 167,5mm. Bought in order to use with any wheelset, including disc wheels.
Seems to be a bit "low measuring" at peak numbers - easy to understand if principles of "tension path" strain-gauges position is analyzed, due more contribution form "inner" parts of the "beam" - gauges are on external faces.. but it doesn't matter if you want to compare sessions/races.
On peak efforts like standing starts or rolling sprints, it can show up to 5% numbers below Powertaps on 5s-15s efforts. But it's precise, it doesn't floats, you can compare different efforts on a very, very coherent way.
On any effort above 50% of max, ie, >1min, it goes on pair with best Powertaps I have - which I consider the gold standard, sorry for all other solutions with gauges in different places than on a round, perfect, big diameter torque tube... ;-).
Considering all those factors and the price, I would recommend InfoCrank for track racers.
It is ISIS compatible, allowing adjust for all frames - I'm using 108mm/68mm without any problem on my Fuji Track Elite.
Will keep them both - I have a 170 and a 167,5mm. Bought in order to use with any wheelset, including disc wheels.
Seems to be a bit "low measuring" at peak numbers - easy to understand if principles of "tension path" strain-gauges position is analyzed, due more contribution form "inner" parts of the "beam" - gauges are on external faces.. but it doesn't matter if you want to compare sessions/races.
On peak efforts like standing starts or rolling sprints, it can show up to 5% numbers below Powertaps on 5s-15s efforts. But it's precise, it doesn't floats, you can compare different efforts on a very, very coherent way.
On any effort above 50% of max, ie, >1min, it goes on pair with best Powertaps I have - which I consider the gold standard, sorry for all other solutions with gauges in different places than on a round, perfect, big diameter torque tube... ;-).
Considering all those factors and the price, I would recommend InfoCrank for track racers.
It is ISIS compatible, allowing adjust for all frames - I'm using 108mm/68mm without any problem on my Fuji Track Elite.
#884
I notice that too, always wondered why the lip is big right there. Was assuming it's purposeful to stiffen the dropouts under load, but maybe it's just the only way they could weld the chainstay and seatstay connections, the way they have it configured. There are other ways to make those tube junctions, but they must've had a good reason for doing it this way----such as, keeping costs low, while keeping strength and durability high. Reasonable. I guess I can't complain, damned affordable frame and plenty good, so that may be my only complaint.
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#888
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Senior Member
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Senior Member
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#895
Senior Member
#898
If you're using Nittos, try B123s the drop and reach on those is massive. They do B123AAs with a 31.8 clamp, might save you buying a bigger frame.
OTOH, it might just be too small! Very good looking bike though.
OTOH, it might just be too small! Very good looking bike though.
#899
Full Member
With a 150mm stem and this much reach, my bars are a good bit past the front axle, not ideal. I'm not in any rush to buy another frame, this should get me by fine for a couple of years. Has to, kids are going to college.
#900
A college fund actually being used for college!?! Am I in the right place?
I just did a similar back and forth, bought a frame with a longer top tube and went from 38cm B125s to 36cm B123s, thought I'd have to sell the new frame and get a smaller bike again! Went from a funky "large" Ridley with a 55cm top tube and super slack seat tube to a 57cm alloy Avanti. Added 20mm and what feel like a massive pair of bars, luckily I had a short enough stem to make it work.
I just did a similar back and forth, bought a frame with a longer top tube and went from 38cm B125s to 36cm B123s, thought I'd have to sell the new frame and get a smaller bike again! Went from a funky "large" Ridley with a 55cm top tube and super slack seat tube to a 57cm alloy Avanti. Added 20mm and what feel like a massive pair of bars, luckily I had a short enough stem to make it work.