Centre-pull hangers are all too short, so...
11-24-20, 09:27 AM
#1
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Centre-pull hangers are all too short, so...
I made my own.
It's just a nut, drilled and tapped M6x1, silver-soldered to a bent spoke. It goes around the seatpost clamp bolt.
AND they all rust except the Mafac stainless ones - this won't: Brass and stainless and silver.
Anybody else want one?
It's just a nut, drilled and tapped M6x1, silver-soldered to a bent spoke. It goes around the seatpost clamp bolt.
AND they all rust except the Mafac stainless ones - this won't: Brass and stainless and silver.
Anybody else want one?
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11-24-20, 09:32 AM
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@oneclick - Show us the application please.
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11-24-20, 10:18 AM
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Great idea for thinking outside the box. Hmm, I have no idea what the tension load is on the part under hard braking... those connections will hold?
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11-24-20, 10:53 AM
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11-24-20, 11:06 AM
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I also would like to see how it installs, but yes, I am interested! Always appreciate it when C&Vers are also skilled DIYers, we have had many examples over the years!
11-24-20, 11:09 AM
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the SURLY looks like a weld. The OP is using a braze.
It would be easy enough to insert a bolt and pull on it test it. I'm guessing a person could go full 200lb of body weight on the SURLY welded part and just hang out for a good long time.
A possible improvement to the OP's hack would be a tall nut to get more brazed length. Maybe bend the spoke around the nut a bit. Maybe put a flat on the spoke to get more surface area.
Found this trying to get a best guess on brazed joint shear strength: https://lucasmilhaupt.com/EN/Brazing...ndamentals.htm
see table 1 here: https://app.aws.org/wj/supplement/WJ_1975_08_s276.pdf
... next question: fatigue cycles associated with braking (which would lead to breaking....)
i should really get back to work....
anyway, I'll vote HACK (not a bodge.....)
cheers.
It would be easy enough to insert a bolt and pull on it test it. I'm guessing a person could go full 200lb of body weight on the SURLY welded part and just hang out for a good long time.
A possible improvement to the OP's hack would be a tall nut to get more brazed length. Maybe bend the spoke around the nut a bit. Maybe put a flat on the spoke to get more surface area.
Found this trying to get a best guess on brazed joint shear strength: https://lucasmilhaupt.com/EN/Brazing...ndamentals.htm
see table 1 here: https://app.aws.org/wj/supplement/WJ_1975_08_s276.pdf
... next question: fatigue cycles associated with braking (which would lead to breaking....)
i should really get back to work....
anyway, I'll vote HACK (not a bodge.....)
cheers.
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11-24-20, 11:33 AM
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
11-24-20, 11:34 AM
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I've made several of these with spokes and cable stop braze-ons. They are perfectly strong. To the OP, nice thinking on using a brass nut.
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11-24-20, 02:25 PM
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b) yes
c) no, I already file a groove into the nut, and I check for full-fillets (see pic 1 & 3, below).
Mk II:
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11-24-20, 02:37 PM
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Good work!
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
11-25-20, 06:02 AM
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I would take 2 or 3
11-25-20, 07:35 AM
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How about 3 of Mk III (pictured below) for $30 and I'll pay postage. You only get the hanger, you'll have to supply your own adjuster.
This one has the plain nut, but it has two holes cross-drilled into the edges and the spoke is bent 90 degrees and silver-soldered into the holes. I think this is (so far) the best solution, it's lighter than Mk II, the thread engagement for the adjuster is longer. It's a 2mm spoke, if you have a seat-lug with a show-off thin kerf it may not fit; I can make one with a thinner spoke if that's the case.
Just to be clear, this is *real* silver solder, the same as used in jewellery, not that "silver-bearing" stuff sold in hardware stores. It melts at medium-red heat and has a bulk UTS of around 50 KSI, the hardware stuff you can do with a soldering iron and is more like 10 KSI. It's not coming apart.
This one has the plain nut, but it has two holes cross-drilled into the edges and the spoke is bent 90 degrees and silver-soldered into the holes. I think this is (so far) the best solution, it's lighter than Mk II, the thread engagement for the adjuster is longer. It's a 2mm spoke, if you have a seat-lug with a show-off thin kerf it may not fit; I can make one with a thinner spoke if that's the case.
Just to be clear, this is *real* silver solder, the same as used in jewellery, not that "silver-bearing" stuff sold in hardware stores. It melts at medium-red heat and has a bulk UTS of around 50 KSI, the hardware stuff you can do with a soldering iron and is more like 10 KSI. It's not coming apart.
Last edited by oneclick; 11-25-20 at 09:17 AM.
11-25-20, 08:10 AM
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I made something similar for my Holdsworth Gugifacazione, but instead of a nut soldered to the spoke, i have a piece of aluminum. The ends of the spoke go all the way through the aluminum piece and are then bent to a J shape, the end of which goes back into a second hole in the aluminum. Ive used this for a few years, no problems.
Last edited by rhm; 11-27-20 at 01:23 PM.
11-27-20, 01:20 PM
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Mk IV prototype...
This was too much trouble to make the way it is. If I do anymore like this it'll probably just have a separate ring, not be formed from one piece:
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11-28-20, 01:52 AM
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Now THIS is a great upgrade!! Such a smart/elegant solution to help alight the cable housing and relieve that pressure right at the adjuster.
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11-28-20, 05:50 AM
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I made something similar for my Holdsworth Gugifacazione, but instead of a nut soldered to the spoke, i have a piece of aluminum. The ends of the spoke go all the way through the aluminum piece and are then bent to a J shape, the end of which goes back into a second hole in the aluminum. Ive used this for a few years, no problems.
But maybe something like this would keep that cable-outer from rubbing:
Last edited by oneclick; 11-28-20 at 01:06 PM.
11-28-20, 12:29 PM
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Or mount the locknut underneath?
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11-28-20, 01:04 PM
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I do have a nice little channel-lock-type set of pliers, the jaws are about 3/32" thick and about 3/4" long, it works no matter where the adjuster is.
11-28-20, 01:08 PM
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Maybe bend the spoke pear-shaped around the adjuster? Might be wise to braze in a curved reinforcement to prevent it from straightening out.
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11-28-20, 07:16 PM
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Old cable housing adjusters had mere knurling on their (usually round) locknut, so didn't rely on anything more than finger-tightening.
I find that they tend never to loosen on their own!
I find that they tend never to loosen on their own!
11-30-20, 09:58 AM
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5mm/wingnut version
I had to get more brass nuts to make more of these things. I knew that the flat nuts I had would not work for a 5mm adjuster; either the existing hole was too big or the nut outside was too small. Then I saw my local hardware store had 8-32 brass wingnuts:
The nut costs more but that's not a big factor, it's just as easy to make. I got some 10-24 wingnuts and will make a few 6mm versions like this.
The nut costs more but that's not a big factor, it's just as easy to make. I got some 10-24 wingnuts and will make a few 6mm versions like this.
