Hondo6

Need some input from the more experienced folks here.

Have a vintage wheelset I've serviced (and converted rear hub from nutted to QR). Freewheel was removed by LBS and the removal slots (Regina Corsa 2-notch) show significant damage - it had some damage before the shop removed it, but seems a bit worse now.

I've "flush and lube" serviced the freewheel per Regina's instructions. I'd like to put it back on with some hope of non-destructive removal in the future.

I know grease works to help prevent freewheels from seizing to the hub, thus making future removal easier. Anyone out there have experience with using both grease and anti-seize or teflon tape on freewheel threads (either separately, or in combination)? Or, hopefully, with all three?

Thanks in advance. Proceeding carefully here since I'm trying to prevent this being this particular freewheel's "last hurrah".

SurferRosa

Grease ... and remove it from the hub a couple times a year.

3alarmer

.
...my personal experience is with using anti-seize compound. It has always worked well for me, in cases where I need to remove or change a freewheel that I have installed previously. I use it on all aluminum to steel contact surfaces. The damaged two notches are a problem that I'm not certain is fixable. I guess you could try to clean the notches up a little by carefully filing. I almost never re-use Regina freewheels, even though they are of high quality.

steelbikeguy

Of the two choices, anti-seize is preferred, mostly because it is designed specifically for the purpose of preventing the stuff from getting stuck.
From the wiki page on grease: "Solid additives such as copper or ceramic powder are added to some greases for static high pressure and/or high temperature applications, or where corrosion could prevent dis-assembly of components later in their service life. These compounds are working as a release agent.[7][8]"

As far as recommended practices, removing the freewheel periodically is a great idea, especially if it is subjected to rain and such. The same applies to cartridge bottom brackets... I spent some time recently working to pull a BB that hadn't been out of the frame in a long time, and the bike does get ridden in the rain and snow.

Haven't tried teflon tape myself. Seems like it might work?? Nowadays, with the knowledge that teflon has ended up in the water, in our bodies, etc., it might be best to minimize any use of materials containing teflon.


Steve in Peoria

Pompiere

I use anti-seize and only spin the freewheel on snug by hand. Any further tightening is done by riding.

Velo Mule

I like Anti-Seize an' all. 'used to use it all the time but.........

It's not a disease, it's Anti-seize.

Garthr

When I rode with freewheels of say a 25-28 tooth max, I used only grease, as that's all I knew to use. With a Phil Wood FW hub and Sachs 13-32 7speed FW's, they were harder to remove. Since I had some teflon tape on hand, I'd apply some grease to both threads, getting into the grooves, then wrap the hub threads with a couple rounds of teflon tape. That made getting them off easier. I eventually bought a 20something inch breaker bar, which made it even easier. Leverage is a wonderful thing. I finally caught on to using to using some Permatex AS so I bought a 8 oz. jar w/applicator, that'll last me a very long time. I haven't used it yet but next time I will. Likely on the BB threads too if the cartridge has aluminum threads. I've used teflon tape there too. Teflon tape is great stuff, as it also acts as a sort of thread locking "helper" a sit fills the voids of threads, which is what thread locking compounds are supposed to do. My Delta bath faucet with a single knob simply would not stay tight, even with trying various washers mean to hold the screw. Loctite blue didn't work either. So I grabbed some teflon tape and wrapped the threads and threaded it in. It's never moved since !

Bad Lag

Teflon tape,... well, never before have I heard of that one being used in this application.


As far as I can tell, there's only one way to remove a freewheel. It involves the use of the proper tools and a skewer. The skewer needs to be just this side of tight, too. Once the freewheel cracks loose, just a tiny fraction of a turn, you can loosen the skewer or even remove it.

I have found any other way for a home mechanic to do it without risk of damage,... almost certain damage. Plus, you already have the skewer right in front of you, so why not?

Chombi1 

Just a little greaseshould work. Anti seize would most likely be no better. You might still find it hard to get some freewheels off hubs because of just how tight the freewheel thread tolerances are. I always find Reginas hard to bust off hubs despite having grease on the threads. Maiilard and Sachs freewheels have never been a problem for me though.

clubman 

imo, Any normal grease should work fine.
Anti-seize is only required in high-heat applications. Finned alloy exhaust nuts on a Beemer for example.

pastorbobnlnh 

Gasoline = Explosion 💥💥💥💥💥🤯

Flush, flush, and more flush will never remove corrosion or corroded bearings.

I'm just spitballing here, but I believe Regina is referring to using the grease tool which floods the entire interior of the body with grease. That's a no-no because grease in the pawls can be problematic. A proper disassembly, cleaning, and new grease only in the bearing races is fine.

Hondo6

IMO you're likely right about the "grease tool" being the reason for the recommendation by Regina not to use grease. And absolutely no argument that gasoline can be extremely dangerous if used (as one of the two options Regina recommends), and is far more toxic than other available choices.

The article accompanying the image I linked says it was an image of the cleaning instructions found on a Regina Extra Superlelggera freewheel can. I'd presume that can dated from the 1980s or 1990s. There's far more concern for toxicity and safety these days than 30 or 40 years ago. We know more today about the long-term dangers.

I used nitrile gloves and OMS - not gasoline - when I flushed the freewheel; I also did it in a well-ventilated area. "Me not stupid, me just sound that way sometimes."

The freewheel in question actually spun smoothly and worked well prior to flush and lube; the cogs all seemed to be in good shape as well. But since I didn't know how long it had been since it was last serviced, I opted to do the "flush and lube" anyway while the freewheel was off the hub. Hopefully that will extend its useful service life.

pastorbobnlnh 

@Hondo6, I should have been a bit more specific. My concern was not with you, it was with the instructions on Regina's can.

Even back in the '80s (when the label was applied to the can), we knew not to use gasoline as a cleaner or solvent due to the potential danger of fume ignition. Even then, this was not some new revelation. This specific hazard of gasoline had been well known for many decades.

Of course, this didn't stop everyone--- and it still doesn't. I know of two instances in the past couple of years, where men I had met (I did not know well) were using gasoline inappropriately, the gasoline fumes ignited, and the resulting burns caused their deaths. Both were educated and informed individuals. In fact, one was a volunteer fire fighter.

Finally, being in the hobby/business I'm in, "flush and dribble" is IMO, a short cut we'd never subject our hubs, bottom brackets, headsets, and even RD pulley/jockey wheels to. It makes me wonder if Regina wanted their freewheels to wear-out prematurely in order to generate more business? If so, the plan back-fired.

Hondo6

I was pretty sure you weren't "calling me out". Just a poor attempt at self-depreciating humor on my part with the quote followed by the smiley.

Yes, gasoline can be deadly dangerous. It works well as a solvent; so do a number of other highly volatile and hazardous chemicals. But most of those are hazardous enough (extremely flammable and/or toxic vapors) that using them is not a good idea if you have another choice.

In most places OMS are still available and are a much safer - and better - choice. Greatly reduced chance of inadvertent ignition/explosion and much reduced inhalation toxicity (both threats are still there, just greatly reduced vis-a-vis gasoline).

Regarding your other point: yes, a complete teardown and rebuild of the freewheel would probably have been a better choice absent the notch damage. But I really didn't see the point in doing that with a freewheel that's probably not going to come off non-destructively more than once or (if I'm lucky) twice because of removal notch damage. So I chose the "flush and lube" option. Don't see how that could hurt (particularly since it was spinning freely w/o any "gritty" feel beforehand), and might extend the useful life a bit. If it doesn't, I'm out the cost of some OMS and a bit of time.

Hondo6

Thanks to all who provided input here.

I decided on using anti-seize and spinning the freewheel on hand-tight; did that this AM. Also decided to use anti-seize on the stem and seatpost while I was at it.