Splice cables?
#2
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For artistic things that don't require the tension a brake lever might put on them? Yes. For things that my life might depend on when I squeeze the brake lever to avoid that Mac Truck at a intersection? No!
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If you're planning to use them for their intended purpose, forget soldering and go straight to welding.
But really, these things are not expensive. Get some tandem length shifter cables if that's what you're dealing with. Or get some cable couplers, like the DaVinci or Jtek to lengthen them even further.
S&S: DaVinci Cable Splitters — TI CYCLES FABRICATION
Shift and Brake Cable Splitters - Co-Motion Cycles
Jtek Cable Splitter (jtekengineering.com)
But really, these things are not expensive. Get some tandem length shifter cables if that's what you're dealing with. Or get some cable couplers, like the DaVinci or Jtek to lengthen them even further.
S&S: DaVinci Cable Splitters — TI CYCLES FABRICATION
Shift and Brake Cable Splitters - Co-Motion Cycles
Jtek Cable Splitter (jtekengineering.com)
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#4
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Cable splitters work well if set up properly, but are much more expensive than long cables.
Crimp connectors might work for shift cables, but as noted above may not be sufficiently fail-safe for brake cables. In either case, I'd replace the cable instead, even if it's an oddball cable such as for old Huret or Suntour X-Press.
Crimp connectors might work for shift cables, but as noted above may not be sufficiently fail-safe for brake cables. In either case, I'd replace the cable instead, even if it's an oddball cable such as for old Huret or Suntour X-Press.
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Cable splitters work well if set up properly, but are much more expensive than long cables.
Crimp connectors might work for shift cables, but as noted above may not be sufficiently fail-safe for brake cables. In either case, I'd replace the cable instead, even if it's an oddball cable such as for old Huret or Suntour X-Press.
Crimp connectors might work for shift cables, but as noted above may not be sufficiently fail-safe for brake cables. In either case, I'd replace the cable instead, even if it's an oddball cable such as for old Huret or Suntour X-Press.
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not a good idea, false economy
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Common electrical cables/wires that you find crimp connectors for aren't meant to have tension loads on them. And they only get crimped in one place. So that is something to consider too for how long you think it'd last with repeated tugging and pulling.
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No, because it’s a bad idea. Electrical wires are designed to carry current, not transfer pulling force. Likewise, with connectors.
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98% of the sailboats out there have masts held up with steel cables and cable ends that are in effect half of a splice. My two small sailboats used cables with a breaking strength of 2000 lbs. Ends were made with standard telephone linesman nicro presses. Done right, there is absolutely no reason spices cannot be done on brake cables. But - that done right bit is important, even life-saving critical. Before I spliced a brake cable I would learn the breaking strength of a new cable and look up the strength of the slicing method. I would take real pains to do that splice right. And no, I have no idea what couplers are available for brake cable diameter cable. If it is 1/16" I believe there is a common nicropress sleeve and I think my press tool can do it. But I am guessing the brake cable is smaller and I wouldn't use an oversize sleeve! (Haven't thought about rigging a sailboat in many years. That phase of my life is done.)
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Are you saying a electrical butt splice is good enough to hold the rigging on your sailboat? I don't think they crimped those splices or ends on your standing rigging with just a simple pair of pliers and the pressure you can develop with one hand squeeze. And for certain they were not electrical connectors.
The OP's question was specifically about electrical connectors as the splice connector. If you are recommending the stuff used for boat rigging then maybe it's not apparent in your post. And I don't know of any sail boat rigging that is as small a diameter as shift or brake cable.
I don't think any of us doubt that you can't splice them successfully with splices or connectors made for the purpose. But again, that's not what the OP ask.
The OP's question was specifically about electrical connectors as the splice connector. If you are recommending the stuff used for boat rigging then maybe it's not apparent in your post. And I don't know of any sail boat rigging that is as small a diameter as shift or brake cable.
I don't think any of us doubt that you can't splice them successfully with splices or connectors made for the purpose. But again, that's not what the OP ask.
Last edited by Iride01; 09-20-23 at 02:23 PM.
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the reason we never hear of spliced brake cables is because THE SPLICER DIED while counting on his cable splice to hold.
Get a new, longer cable and live, ok?
See: "Tandem bike brake cable"
Get a new, longer cable and live, ok?
See: "Tandem bike brake cable"
#12
#13
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Keep in mind that modern brake cables are typically larger in diameter than shift cables.
#14
Sheldon Brown (or John Allen) says splicing a cable is easy and does not require any extra hardware:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/heroic-repairs.html
scroll down to the "splicing cables" section
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/heroic-repairs.html
scroll down to the "splicing cables" section
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Sheldon Brown (or John Allen) says splicing a cable is easy and does not require any extra hardware:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/heroic-repairs.html
scroll down to the "splicing cables" section
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/heroic-repairs.html
scroll down to the "splicing cables" section
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Perhaps the second best reply yet. We don't know why the OP is considering this.
One issue with a splice is that it will likely have to be done in situ. Once the cable is joined to another the joint's diameter will likely be greater than that of the base cables and thus not be able to run in housing or through cable stops and adjusters. This is another reason to consider proper cable splitters. Andy
One issue with a splice is that it will likely have to be done in situ. Once the cable is joined to another the joint's diameter will likely be greater than that of the base cables and thus not be able to run in housing or through cable stops and adjusters. This is another reason to consider proper cable splitters. Andy
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It's a skill, one that takes some practice as well as knowledge about how to accomplish the join in a reliable manner.
Done all the time with traditional (3-strand) and braded rope too, rather than metal strands.
Doing a splice on bicycle brake cable? Why? The stuff's cheap enough, given the risks of splice failure.
I had a small sailboat fifty years ago too. The mast stays were 7x19 SS wire, I had SS turnbuckles on the bottom ends with swaged connections at their upper ends. Those stays were 1/8" dia. wire rope and the swaged connections were about 1-1/2" long.
Elsewhere I had NICOpress connectors where I'd fashioned eyes for connecting wire rope to various hardware too. I did those at home with a visegrip & a couple of nails, never had one fail.
I look upon splicing brake or shifter cable as a fool's gambit, little else.
EDIT - Posted that before reading later comments about Sheldon's emergency repair, the venerable square knot to reconnect two parted cable's ends. That'd work too, an effective means for temporary fix but not something I'd trust for permanence.
Last edited by spclark; 09-21-23 at 07:34 AM.
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Nice skill.
I used to solder mine back 60 years ago, long before I ever knew there were things like (electrical) crimp-connectors or bicycle cable caps. Soldering the cable into a solid made cutting them vastly easier with what I had at hand back then.
I used to solder mine back 60 years ago, long before I ever knew there were things like (electrical) crimp-connectors or bicycle cable caps. Soldering the cable into a solid made cutting them vastly easier with what I had at hand back then.
#19
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I wish the OP would respond to let us know why/how they intend to use this spliced cable. For the life of me I can’t imagine (safely) actually using it on bike with the stress put on it from shifting/braking.
Dan
#20
I say, Go For It ! ! And let us know how it works if you're able.
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Sheldon Brown (or John Allen) says splicing a cable is easy and does not require any extra hardware:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/heroic-repairs.html
scroll down to the "splicing cables" section
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/heroic-repairs.html
scroll down to the "splicing cables" section
Thanks!
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Save money. I was hoping there might be a secure method of doing so more so than standard butt connectors or that someone would have a creative idea
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Brakes're what, 0.062" dia.? #10 AWG's 0.102" where 14's closer @ 0.0641 but even that leaves you a couple thou short of snugged set-screws. Shift cables need not apply.
Try one of these instead maybe!
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Also, you're not saving money. Those connectors are more expensive than new cables... https://a.co/d/3rjbYwF
Use the right parts. Your life is worth it.
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