Sturmey-Archer parts - bearing cage
05-15-24, 05:50 PM
#1
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Sturmey-Archer parts - bearing cage
I have also posted this to the vintage forum.
I was gifted a Royal Scot (made by Raleigh?) 3-speed and it immediately became my favorite city bike. I added a bit of gear oil and it started acting up. I was hearing some grinding on one ride, but it went away. Later it got a little wobbly and I had problems with adjusting the bearing play. Pulling it apart today, the bearing cage is obviously trashed. Normally I would eliminate the cage, but without it the bearings fall into the hub. This is a cup design issue/feature, as far as I can tell. Are these cages available anywhere?
Here's my exploded view. Can anyone comment on the sequence. I tried to lay them out in order but quickly mixed them up. I have an online exploded view, but the parts aren't the same as mine, close, but not the same.
I was gifted a Royal Scot (made by Raleigh?) 3-speed and it immediately became my favorite city bike. I added a bit of gear oil and it started acting up. I was hearing some grinding on one ride, but it went away. Later it got a little wobbly and I had problems with adjusting the bearing play. Pulling it apart today, the bearing cage is obviously trashed. Normally I would eliminate the cage, but without it the bearings fall into the hub. This is a cup design issue/feature, as far as I can tell. Are these cages available anywhere?
Here's my exploded view. Can anyone comment on the sequence. I tried to lay them out in order but quickly mixed them up. I have an online exploded view, but the parts aren't the same as mine, close, but not the same.
Last edited by sunburst; 05-15-24 at 06:03 PM. Reason: additional info
05-15-24, 09:17 PM
#2
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The Sturmey-Archer K67Z "Ball Cage with 8 Balls" tracks to HSA103 which tracks to HSA284. I see HSA284 is available from multiple vendors.
You can use 10 loose balls; stick 'em in with a hydrophobic LMGI #2 grease for assembly.
You can use 10 loose balls; stick 'em in with a hydrophobic LMGI #2 grease for assembly.
Last edited by tcs; 05-16-24 at 07:31 AM.
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05-16-24, 12:16 PM
#3
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Your hub is more likely a AW (Always works) not SW (Seldom Works). Look on the hub shell.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sutherland/CB-IGH-4-aw.pdf
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sutherland/CB-IGH-4-aw.pdf
05-16-24, 04:09 PM
#4
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Your hub is more likely a AW (Always works) not SW (Seldom Works). Look on the hub shell.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sutherland/CB-IGH-4-aw.pdf
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sutherland/CB-IGH-4-aw.pdf
you are right, it is a 1974 AW, but both the SW and AW drawings are missing those big rings in my photo, which I will call dust caps for now.
Last edited by sunburst; 05-16-24 at 04:13 PM.
05-16-24, 04:12 PM
#5
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I will try the loose balls first. I'm used to that from my French bikes. Due to my generally poor visualization skills, I saw the cone pushing the bearings down into the hub, rather than against the cup.
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05-16-24, 08:48 PM
#6
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FYI: someone on the vintage forum pointed me to this Seattle source for parts. Sturmey-Archerparts.com
05-16-24, 09:42 PM
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Brings back memories.
Sold tons of these back in the late sixties/early seventies.
In any case, it's easy to build these hubs with loose balls. I used a temporary plug while I "glued" the balls into place with stiff grease, then removed the plug and screwed the cone home.
Otherwise, I suspect you can still find the retainer if you prefer.
Sold tons of these back in the late sixties/early seventies.
In any case, it's easy to build these hubs with loose balls. I used a temporary plug while I "glued" the balls into place with stiff grease, then removed the plug and screwed the cone home.
Otherwise, I suspect you can still find the retainer if you prefer.
Last edited by FBinNY; 05-16-24 at 09:54 PM.
05-17-24, 03:52 AM
#8
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As I suspected the moment you said Seattle, that's Aaron's Bike Repair/Rat City Bikes, they specialize in repair of internal gear hubs of all kinds. I would have been shocked if there were *two* shops in town that repaired or had parts for IGHs.
